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Old 03-25-2002, 10:54 PM   #1
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Question Ammo/ Powder?????

I have a large amount of 1940's turk 8mm ammo and have been trying to trick it out some what.
Does anyone know what type of powder was used in it?
my powder carges rang from 49.1 to 49.9
and bullet weight from 153.4gr to 154.8
I have already pulled and tossed out all the bullets and am trying to find the powder make so I can get a good load behind a 150gr soft point and a 180gr balistic point.
any help on powder ID. would be a big help.
I allready have all the data on new loads and powders just want to use up the old brass for some target loads on a range where the grass isn't always cut (loosing the old non reloadable stuff is allways the better in my book)
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Old 04-05-2002, 10:10 PM   #2
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Colt , I've shot the truk stuff and did not like it. Got to pulling bullets apart and all had huge wieght differences. Took all that powder mixed it up, reloaded somewhere around 50 grains I think. Stuck 150 grain sp on it. Shot a much better groupl wind was blowing that day and had a 1' horizantal group 3" wide by 1". Dont worry about using commercail powder. The unknown factor of the primer is the only drawback. Some of the turk stuff I could pull the bullet right off the cartridge. Good luck. Ken.uke: uke: :target:
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Old 04-06-2002, 08:54 AM   #3
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I have tried the original powder with 49.6 gr and a 150gr spbt.
shot on average 1 to 1 1/2 inch. groups at 100yrds.
I found that by useing a 180 nosler that I had to drop the powder load to 45.8 and got about the same.
I'm now useing 4395, 46.7 gr. and a 200gr boat tail hollow point(new to the US market) from seiarra. and how what a kick! I actualy had to go out and buy a (whimp pad) recoil pad, but hay I'm getting 2550 fps and less than 1/2 groups at 100yrds and I have gotten some 200yrd 3/4 groups.
I'm thinking about putting a muzle break on it.
Gander mountain has an instore gunsmith that says he can do it for only $135.00 more than twice what I paid for the gun to begin with but its so much more fun to shoot than my AR15 or my FAL I may just do it.
Thanks for the info on your turk ammo.:flame:
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Old 04-06-2002, 09:58 PM   #4
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Seirra is making a 200 gr. - great. I'll have to get some of those. The Yugo stuff is loaded with the 196 gr. and get very good groups. The powder was 4895?
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Old 04-07-2002, 05:50 PM   #5
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Yes it is 4895 military drop powder not 4395 sorry my typing isn't the best nor is my spelling( thank God for secretarys).
Yep 200gr. there is a small write up on it in the March 2002 shooting times page 35.
you can get more info on it at www.sierrabullets.com:flame:
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Old 04-07-2002, 09:42 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by colt45
I have tried the original powder with 49.6 gr and a 150gr spbt.
shot on average 1 to 1 1/2 inch. groups at 100yrds.
I found that by useing a 180 nosler that I had to drop the powder load to 45.8 and got about the same.
I'm now useing 4395, 46.7 gr. and a 200gr boat tail hollow point(new to the US market) from seiarra. and how what a kick! I actualy had to go out and buy a (whimp pad) recoil pad, but hay I'm getting 2550 fps and less than 1/2 groups at 100yrds and I have gotten some 200yrd 3/4 groups.
I'm thinking about putting a muzle break on it.
Gander mountain has an instore gunsmith that says he can do it for only $135.00 more than twice what I paid for the gun to begin with but its so much more fun to shoot than my AR15 or my FAL I may just do it.
Thanks for the info on your turk ammo.:flame:
There used to be a company in Shotgun News that sold MB's , and the stuff to thread the barrel .

This would all total less than the $ 125.00 & you own the threading equipment .

Wyr
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Old 04-07-2002, 09:44 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by colt45
I have tried the original powder with 49.6 gr and a 150gr spbt.
shot on average 1 to 1 1/2 inch. groups at 100yrds.
I found that by useing a 180 nosler that I had to drop the powder load to 45.8 and got about the same.
I'm now useing 4395, 46.7 gr. and a 200gr boat tail hollow point(new to the US market) from seiarra. and how what a kick! I actualy had to go out and buy a (whimp pad) recoil pad, but hay I'm getting 2550 fps and less than 1/2 groups at 100yrds and I have gotten some 200yrd 3/4 groups.
I'm thinking about putting a muzle break on it.
Gander mountain has an instore gunsmith that says he can do it for only $135.00 more than twice what I paid for the gun to begin with but its so much more fun to shoot than my AR15 or my FAL I may just do it.
Thanks for the info on your turk ammo.:flame:

PS Also , look for a MB attached with set screws . If you wish to avoid scratching the barrel , get some brass set screws .

Wyr
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Old 04-08-2002, 10:14 PM   #8
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WyrTwister,
Thanks for the info, Do you know what company?
I looked through my last three shotgun news issues and could not find any brake kits only companys to put them on.
I have two mausers I shoot regularly and would like to find the kits you wrote about.
:flame:
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Old 04-14-2002, 09:42 PM   #9
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not sure on that particular brake,but brownells carries a ton of muzzle brakes and the tools to install them.any decent gunsmith can thread the barrel for whatever brake you want for a hell of a lot less than 135.00-maybe he was going to taper the brake to barrel dia. etc?
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Old 04-14-2002, 09:56 PM   #10
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Has anyone here taken the time to remove the Berdan primers from used cases and recycled the Turk stuff? Would it be worth the effort to do so? What tools would you recommend to do that?

Thanks for the info!
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Old 04-15-2002, 03:37 AM   #11
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My understanding is that berdan primers have to be machined out because they actually are part of the case. Then you are left with an oversized hole that has to take PISTOL primers. I have not made any reloads in a long time; someone else will have to tell you what tools are needed.
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Old 04-15-2002, 06:08 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by Klaus
My understanding is that berdan primers have to be machined out because they actually are part of the case. Then you are left with an oversized hole that has to take PISTOL primers. I have not made any reloads in a long time; someone else will have to tell you what tools are needed.

Several problems here .

The Berdan primers are a pain to remove , compared to boxer primers .

The berdan primers are a different diameter than boxer primers , so forget that . Some people , I am told , machine out the primer pocket enough for shot gun primers & shoot cast bullets .

Lastly , I am told that berdan primers are not plentiful , this side of the pond , and are about $ 10.00 / 100 . Boxer primers were about $ 2.00 / 100 , last I bought at the store .

Mostly , my cousin and I buy them in bulk , the vendor pays the Haz-Mat fww .

All in all , if you can find boxer primed brass , it is the way to go .

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Old 04-15-2002, 03:31 PM   #13
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we tried to reload some berdan stuff in 308 and 8mm. no luck guys.
what you have heard is true they are a pain to take out. They are a diferent diameter. and it is to much of a pain to deal with.
The turk stuff is only $39.00 per 760rnd case most places I buy it from so why bother trying to reload it.
If you are into relaoding try remington brass its only $15 per 100 from midsouth.
Or if you have any left over 30-06 brass it can be cut down at the neck and resized in an 8mm die and trimed to lenght. I have about 500 of each (Rem. and lakecity 30-06)
they both work well and I have had no problems with either.
My next task is to rechamber my newest mauser in 8mm-06.
this is no big deal according to my gun smith and he says he can do it while I wait.(what service) the loading data says it will do 3000 fps with a 150grn. bullet.
I'll let you know how I make out.:flame:
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Old 04-15-2002, 09:52 PM   #14
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UPDATE:
The berdan primer is .007 larger than a large rifle primer.
when tried it will come out if case is mishandled or dropped.
and does not seal corectly when inserted.
RCBS makes a berdan decapper if you really want to reload with berdan primers cost is $31.78 from MidSouth.
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Old 04-15-2002, 09:57 PM   #15
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What is the advantage of 8mm-06? It seems to me it would be a weaker round than the 7.92x57 ammo that already works in your rifle. I do not get it.
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Old 04-15-2002, 10:14 PM   #16
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The original 7.92x57 or 8mm can olny deliver about 2600fps. with a 150grn sp. In order to gain fps you need a larger cass thus the 30-06 case. The story I'm told is that when our GI's came home with the captured mausers they could not find ammo and soon discovered that the sholder and cass diameter of the 8mm and the 30-06 where the same the only diference was the length.
I'm told that the 8mm-06 is every bit as good as the 30-06 with even more knock down power. might make a nice deer gun when finished. I'm sure brass will be alot more avalible.
I'm still working on my mauser action "savage striker" copy and have not but a barrle on it yet if this round turns out to be what they tell me it is I may reuse the original barrle rechambered for 8mm-06 on it.
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Old 04-16-2002, 06:18 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by Klaus
What is the advantage of 8mm-06? It seems to me it would be a weaker round than the 7.92x57 ammo that already works in your rifle. I do not get it.


Best I remember , the .30-06 case is larger . This means more room for powder . Potentially more velosity .

Also , take .30-06 brass and neck it up to 8mm & then trim to spec . You are done . Easier than making 8mm Mauser from .30-06 .

I know , but a lot of people have .30-06 brass on hand & do this . :-)

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Old 05-12-2002, 08:08 PM   #18
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In the late forties I had two 8mm-06 mausers. After the war, 8mm mauser brass was non existant. and to shoot these rifles a lot was expensive. 06 brass was very cost effective and easy to neck size to 8mm.
But, in a good rifle with the additional powder capacity it was a very good combination.
I can't give you loads because in those days I used IMR 3031 for everything from the hornet to 8X57.
Make sure your smith gets a smoothe transition from 06 to bore diameter. The throats on both of mine was rough. eddie
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