What's a good price on a 6.5 Swedish Mo

[smokepole50]

Please help with some pall park prices for long and short version Swedish Mausers. I'm getting ready to purchase one and I need some info. Which one's are the most accurate, are people into the cartouche scene with Mausers as they are with Garands, etc.

Thanks, Smokepole50

[lefty o]

usually see 1896's in very good condition for 150-170$. havent seen the carbines around, so i would expext to pay slightly more for one. the 1896's are very accurate.

[smokepole50]

Thanks Lefty o. I suppose the 1896 would be the long barrel version. This person I'm going to buy from has more carbines with the 19" barrel than the long 30" barreled version.

What's the word on the 6.5-06 conversion. Are these military barrels safe for the 06 pressures or do you have to buy a new barrel?

Thanks, Smokepole50

[lefty o]

do not try this kind of conversion on the swede. the max cartridge to try in a swede is .308, and thats pushing the safe limits of the reciever. if you really desire to go with a hi-power custom start with a german k98 action, as it has the strength to handle any cartridge you can fit in it.

[Dale]

It may have been steep, but I bought a 1896 Tuesday, in VG-Ex condition, for $219.

Since I have eye surgery scheduled, and can't see worth a dang right now, I only fired it to see that it fired. I will test the accuracy shortly after the surgery and I can see clearly out of my right eye again.

However, I am very satisfied with the gun. I posted some pics in the Gun Room Forum if anyone is intersted. You can see that the stock is pristene and, difficult as it may be to see, the bluing is flawless. The chrome is also in A+ condition.

[tonto]

The swedes were and I believe still are meticulous about their rifles.The price you paid for it isn't bad since my purchase on one I have learned two things that i am lucky about. 1. Are all the numbers matching? The Swedes tattoo everything right down to the cleaning rod. Incidentely that is the only thing that didn't match on my Swede.
2. Deceifer the armor's brass tag on the stock, is the barrel acceptable. My "ole Girl" needs a new front sight as it hits like 8 inches high at 100 yards. But the barrel was a grade 1, new.
Swedish mausers can be had for some 50-75.00 less than what you paid, but I believe what you got is an excellent price as i am speculating it has all matching numbers and has a new barrel.
So I must add this one last thing after shooting mine. If a swede wants you dead, count yourself dead! These "ole Girls" are straight shooters!

[savageT]

Can I get a short crash course on Swedish Mausers (pre-WWI?)as my referance book doesn't seem to offer much. Where do you find them, price for same, etc. Are they offered in different calibers or only 6.5mmX___??
JimT

[savageT]

Tonto,
I understand the M96's were zeroed in at 300meters and the M38 carbines possibly at 100meters?? I noticed that SAMCO Global http://www.samcoglobal.com/index.html offers in their accessories for the M96, various front blade sights. If yours is shooting high (for 100 or so yds.) can you file it down, or is that the wrong way to fix it???? I'm looking for a swede as we speak..........
JimT

[lefty o]

to shoot lower at shorter ranges you need a taller front sight.

[savageT]

Lefty, a big thanks!

Do you know if there is something that could be done with the rear ladder sight that would allow 100yd. zero's? Notching out deeper?? I don't have one to look at to get the big picture. What about windage...is there a way to do that with the rear sight or just the front?
JimT

[tonto]

10-4 Savage, but lefty was right I need to go with a taller front sight not shorter. they are avaiable for like $3-5.00 per sight. I can't remember but mine is tagged like a .3mm and i need like a .5mm or something like that. I have thought of having my m38 drilled and tapped for scope mounts just can't bring myself to do that to her, she is a classic, and it's like the Swede Gods would frown on me for it. LOL I may just drop a dab of silver solder or two on my front sight and then file it down to hit on target at 100 yards. Hope the Gods don't frown on that one? Good luck with finding yours and my main advise is to learn to decipher the brass armory tags , they tell the life and story for that rifle.

>>if you really desire to go with a hi-power custom start with a german k98 action<<<

Everything Ive read sez the M38 and 98 actions are the same.

I just found a sweet M38 for $140. I plan on removing the barrel and installing one of Bronell's 30-06 mauser barrels.

Dang it guys, I will havbe a bolt action 06 :-)

[PAPA G]

first it was a mosin in "06", now you want to try it with a swede. what ? you like pain or something? know a cute nurse?? what give armorer??? if you want an 06 rifle than get one that will handle it!!! 1903/03a3, M98, m1917,or a host of commercial actions. we like you in one piece!!!:lucky:

I was gonna delete this post. Swed is a M96 action.

I found a sweet M38. But I know now I need a K98K or CZ98K or M48.

And yes EVERYTHING I have will be 06! Wah hahaha!

So off to the Mauser forum I go!

I like WWII battle rifles, what can I say.

Heck I can chamber my M1 to 8mm :-)

[NRAJOE]

Man, I bought a Swede in excellent condition back in 1981 for $59.00 and traded it off for c.b. equipment. How dumb was that? Woolworths was going out of business and was selling all their guns dirt cheap.

[Calvin]

If hindsight were 20/20, eh, Joe?

Armorer, the Swede action is a short action, and won't handle the length of the .30/06 cartridge. Stick with a 98 Mauser action. I admire your zeal on the '06 and wish you well with it. If you really want a conversion, try the .338/06. Had an old Mauser converted to that and it really is a super shooter.

[Gyrene]

I am not familiar with the Swede variety of Mausers, and really know very little about Mausers in general. I do have a K98k, an 1891, and a Turk.

I recently took proud possession of a Swede 1907. One guy who looked at it said it was a sniper rifle, because of the rear sight, which has some round gizmo with a dial and a spring to lock the positions (METALLVERKEN VASTERAS). It does not have the typical ladder and slide rear sight, because the Slide is not there.

I bought it because it has all matching numbers (the last three numbers of the Serial number are 100, which is the number that is stamped on all of the parts); thinking this is a neat little rifle which has an overall length of 43 1/2 inches and a barrel length of about 23 1/2 inches.

The wood is a very nice part of the rifle with a lot of "History", as it has a lot of dings (which could be steamed out) and creases (like something was pressed against it and pulled along, leaving a irregular depressions here and there on the stock).

[lefty o]

gyrene, that sight is the diopeter sight. the swedes used them on their target rifles.

[Grasshoppa@Work]

Hey, I just wanted to add my little bit to this discussion. My brother bought a Swedish 1896 and the thing is just a beautiful peice of work all around. The oringinal owner must have put a new gloss of stain and finsih on it because it's like my grandmothers old oak table....all soft and highly glossed. It should be in a museum. As for how it shoots, it shoots better than I could ever shoot. I only put 5 rounds through it and I had a 2-3 inch grouping....and I've just recently come into the whole rifle shooting habit/hobbie in the last little while. I'll tell you, anyone who likes Mausers in general, can't go wrong if they're picking up a swedish in good shape. They're great.