| | #1 |
| Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 3
| model 53 b hi I just picked up a 53 b stevens and don't know anything about it. Any help would be great. thanks darrell |
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| | #2 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: New York
Posts: 896
| Hi Bud. I also have a 53B (buckhorn), and I love it. It belonged to my uncle, passed to my Dad, and then to me. I believe it was made in the 30's. I refinished mine , and added a scope. I had to mess around some with bases but also added a scope with long eye relief. It's a shootin' mother-hubbard!! Sweet little gun that's deadly accurate. I'll try to get you some pictures. |
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| | #3 |
| Moderator ![]() Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Tallahassee, Florida
Posts: 10,208
| My Springfield ("Manufactured by Stevens") Model 56 is the same basic rifle - but mine's even older. It has the older finger-grooved fore end, and a funky little fixed-block rear sight with NO adjustment. Good shooter, and it uses the same magazines as my Stevens M416 target rifle - but the dovetails are not the standard size - so I can't replace the sights with my stock of parts. It is set up to use a peepsight - just have to find the correct type.
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| | #4 |
| Registered User Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 3
| model 53 b Hey thanks for the info on th 53b. I just bought it the other day for twenty dollars without looking at it. It's rusted and been beat up a little but it's all there and solid. I shot a couple of rounds throught it and seems to be fine except it wouldn't eject the empty.still would like to know more history of this little gun if you know of a website please let me know. by the way mine has the grooves in the forearm. Is there a way to tell what year it was made. Thanks Darrell Thanks again for the info. and the pictures were a big help. You did a good job on you gun, it looks like new. Mine is no where close to that. But I think mine is more like Big Dogs except mine is a 53 b. Last edited by darrellbud; 01-10-2008 at 10:57 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost |
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| | #5 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: New York
Posts: 896
| Bud, when I got mine it was a disaster.. My uncle had painted the stock black, all the metal work was painted silver, including the barrel, and he carved his initials into the stock approx 1/8 of an inch deep by about 1 1/2inches long.What a project. I do believe yours is alot older than mine. Mine doesn't have the finger grooves. Sorry I can't give any more info, I just enjoy the darn thing. And bythe way, $20 bucks sounds good to me. You should be able to get an extractor and/or and ejector for it from Numrich or Brownells. ![]() |
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| | #6 |
| Moderator ![]() Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Tallahassee, Florida
Posts: 10,208
| Some manufacturers have their dating based on stamped codes (Remington) or the serial number (Marlin) - but I don't know of any way to date the old Stevens/Springfield/Savage guns. Some generalizations can be made. Such as, rimfire scope grooves on top of the receiver came into use about mid-fifties. Same with plastic trigger guards. Finger grooves in the fore ends was also seen on the earlier rifles, but dropped later.
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| | #7 |
| Registered User Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1
| I have a 53B that my dad gave me when I was a kid back in the 40's. We used to shoot pennies with it on a stump with the rifle backwards over our shoulders using a mirror. Fond memories. I shot a small water bottle on a stump with it last night at 10 yards with a mirror. It has no serial number, how do you find out when it was made? It has the number 15 in a circle stamped in the barrel. Does this mean 1915? Lot #15? Inspector #15? I sure would love to kn ow when this rifle was made. Shot a squirrel with it last week and had him for lunch. Teddy |
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| | #8 |
| Registered User Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 4
| Hi all, surfing for some information I found this thread. Grandpa gave my son a "project gun", it's the barrel and bolt of a Springfield (Stevens) Model 53-B that has been knocking around the farm for a few years. It's missing pretty much everything but it should be a good cheap father-son project. Could anybody tell me or point me in the right direction as far as parts interchangeability for the various models of the era?? I need a "refinishing grade" stock, rear sight, trigger guard and the hardware to attach the stock. Thanks, Matt ![]() |
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| | #9 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Heidelberg, Mississippi
Posts: 1,541
| AFAIK there's no way to definitely date a Stevens other than a general time frame. For parts try Numrich http://www.e-gunparts.com Or Bob's Gun Shop http://www.gun-parts.com/savagerifle/
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| | #10 |
| Moderator ![]() Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Tallahassee, Florida
Posts: 10,208
| An early Savage/Stevens/Springfield stock would work for most any of the models, as far as a serviceable rifle goes. Look for one with the proper type of action - singleshot, tube mag or detachable box mag - this will minimise the necessary inletting work. Different trigger guards can be used - a later plastic type can be put on instead of the early sheet steel type, for instance. The basic .22 rifle sights are often found on ebay, GunBroker, and even at Numrich. If it has the basic 3/8" dovetail, you can find something to fit. Front sights might be trickier - depending on whether it's dovetailed or screwed on. Once you get to the point of refinishing it, then it gets really fun!
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| | #11 |
| Registered User Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 4
| Thanks for the help. The front sight is there but the rear is missing, 3/8" dovetails so finding a replacement will hopefully be easy. So most single shot Stevens/Savage/Springfield stocks should fit or be close enough to look good?? I found a guy over in Spokane who had a bunch of 53/B parts...cut-n-paste 3.Barrel stud $3.00. 7.Trigger guard $15.00. 8.Main spring $15.50. 11.Take down screw $5.00. 14.takedown srcew $7.00. 16.Stock $40.00 Is that at all reasonable? Sounds a bit spendy to me. |
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| | #12 | |
| Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: New York
Posts: 896
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| | #13 |
| Moderator ![]() Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Tallahassee, Florida
Posts: 10,208
| Sounds about right - he has it, you need it. If the stock is in okay shape, good wood that could be properly refinished - I'd pay it. Most factory stocks for current production rifles start around $75. Most .22 bolt-action stocks of a particular manufacturer tend to be very similar - it will require some modification. If his stock is the right model, that will save a lot of work!
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| | #14 |
| Registered User Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 4
| Sounds logical to me, I contacted the seller and we'll see how things go. Thanks for the help. |
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| | #15 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: New York
Posts: 896
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| | #16 | |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Burleson,Tx
Posts: 143
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| | #17 | |
| Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: New York
Posts: 896
| Quote:
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| | #18 |
| Registered User Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 4
| You really did do a great job .22hustler, to think that the ugly lump of metal we have could look like that is a stretch. If you don't mind me asking what did you use to refinish the barrel and stock?? This is my first rebuild and I don't want to ruin it. |
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| | #19 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: New York
Posts: 896
| I'll give you the info you'll need, but there are members here that know a great deal more about such things,lol.. I used 2000 wet/dry paper on all the metal parts. It's a very, very fine paper that doesn't take too much off at one time, causing you to spend a bit of time on it.Actually what you are doing is polishing the metal. When I was done with the 2000, all the metal looked like a mirror.I then cleaned and degreased everything before using Brownells 44/40 cold blueing on it. I bought a pint of it from a local gunsmith, but you can order it yourself. Pricey, that's why I got just a bit from the gunny. I heated up the metal parts in the oven, while the wife wasn't home, and then used the blueing and a small piece of rag. After I got evreything blued, I used cold water on it, buffed it up with a rag, and dried it. I then did the process all over again, maybe 4-5 times, until I got the desired finish. Then I oiled it. On the stock, I used 200 grit paper on a block, as you can put finger grooves on the stock from sanding, actually small grooves from the pressure of your fingertips. I used a auto finishing hard rubber block from the auto parts store. Sand with the grain, and then finish with a finer paper. I didn't use any stain on my stock as I liked the natural color of the wood. I used True Oil from Wal-Mart's sporting goods section. I put it on with my fingers and let it dry. Buffed it with 00 steel wool, used a tack rag, and did the process all over again, until I got the desired finish.Always use a tack rag before doing any finishing with the oil. It gets all the dust/particles off the wood.Also, use a de-bluer on the metal parts. It will help in the long run. Also, DON"T TOUCH the metal before blueing. It will leave your finger prints. Hot blueing is of course the best, but it's costly, and would have been more than the gun was worth. I hope I've helped.. Check the gun smithing forum, or start a thread asking for help.. There are so many super guys/gals here that you'll be flooded with information! In fact, there was asked the same question a few months back, and I believe the thread lasted several pages, if not more. |
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| | #20 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: New York
Posts: 896
| Pix of the gun |
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