trigger group question for 10/22

pontiac_fiero_g · 10-29-2009, 09:30 PM

how muh can i grind the sear to reduce trigger pull before i have to worry about going full auto? i will be purchasing a vq hammer and sear soon and so im not too worried if i ruin the factory sear. i just want to make sure i dont modify it to the point of illegality.

Chapman87 · 10-29-2009, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pontiac_fiero_g

how muh can i grind the sear to reduce trigger pull before i have to worry about going full auto? i will be purchasing a vq hammer and sear soon and so im not too worried if i ruin the factory sear. i just want to make sure i dont modify it to the point of illegality.

I think you should wait till you get the vq and sell me your factory stuff

pontiac_fiero_g · 10-29-2009, 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chapman87

I think you should wait till you get the vq and sell me your factory stuff

what is your offer and is it legal for me to ship them? i am assuming that it is but we all know what happens when you assume. vq will probably be ordered next wendsday on payday

Chapman87 · 10-29-2009, 10:40 PM

I dont know what a factory set goes for. And yes its legal.

pontiac_fiero_g · 10-29-2009, 11:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chapman87

I dont know what a factory set goes for. And yes its legal.

ill go 30? why do you need them?

big shrek · 10-30-2009, 01:01 PM

don't use a grinder...file it by hand.

pontiac_fiero_g · 10-30-2009, 06:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by big shrek

don't use a grinder...file it by hand.

that was kind of my idea. how much should i take off? any particular shape i should go for or just keep the same shape and just remove a little bit? if i can reduce trigger pull enough i may not even buy the vq set. if i take off too much do i have to worry about incomplete engagement leading to full auto?

big shrek · 10-31-2009, 03:23 AM

Hammer Replacement and Trigger Group Disassembly - RimfireCentral.com Forums

Trigger Group Modifications - RimfireCentral.com Forums

Ruger 10/22 - RimfireCentral.com Forums

Seeing as how I got peeved off at Ruger and sold all my Ruger products, these guys will be your best bet for any & all help on a 10/22.

Ruger follows the Bill Gates/Microsoft business model...make a half-acre piece of equipment, sell it cheap, tell 'em there's aftermarket upgrade goodies, and run.

Back in the old days, they called it selling Snake Oil...

K75RT · 10-31-2009, 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by big shrek

don't use a grinder...file it by hand.

Please don't file on your trigger hammer or sear. This work needs to be stoned in a proper fixture.. stoning removes small amounts and leaves a flat and smooth finish. This work is not for the inexperienced, IMHO....

pontiac_fiero_g · 10-31-2009, 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by K75RT

Please don't file on your trigger hammer or sear. This work needs to be stoned in a proper fixture.. stoning removes small amounts and leaves a flat and smooth finish. This work is not for the inexperienced, IMHO....

if it doesnt work i had already planned on getting the vq set on payday so it wont really matter too much.

DWARREN123 · 11-01-2009, 06:53 AM

I would suggest never grinding/filing on trigger parts. The best is to polish with no metal removal. A smooth trigger feels lighter because the parts work easier together while grinding removes metal and changes how the parts work or do not work together, also you may change surface hardness with metal removal.
Another method is spring replacement to get a lighter trigger pull.
Go auto once and people will look at you funny especially the FED's!

pontiac_fiero_g · 11-01-2009, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DWARREN123

I would suggest never grinding/filing on trigger parts. The best is to polish with no metal removal. A smooth trigger feels lighter because the parts work easier together while grinding removes metal and changes how the parts work or do not work together, also you may change surface hardness with metal removal.
Another method is spring replacement to get a lighter trigger pull.
Go auto once and people will look at you funny especially the FED's!

i have already polished everything thoroughly. the hardness issue is moot because i have a decently strong background in mettalurgy and can easily re harden the parts. wich spring to replace? the trigger return spring?
if i wanted to go full auto i would just mill the front of the bolt by about .015 so that is not my goal at all.

pontiac_fiero_g · 11-01-2009, 01:57 PM

stop with the "dont do it". if i happen to ruin the factory parts then i can alwys just replace like ill be doing anyway if i cant reduce pull to an acceptable level.

Clem321 · 11-02-2009, 08:51 AM

I tried playing with parts kits to improve the trigger. One came out pretty well, the other came out less so. I eventually replaced both with Kidd triggers. Light years better than any other trigger for the 10/22.

K75RT · 11-02-2009, 06:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pontiac_fiero_g

how muh can i grind the sear to reduce trigger pull before i have to worry about going full auto? i just want to make sure i dont modify it to the point of illegality. And the...stop with the "dont do it". if i happen to ruin the factory parts then i can alwys just replace like ill be doing anyway if i cant reduce pull to an acceptable level.

Apparently you already have your agenda why even ask a question? No flame intended but you ask and will not heed proper advice, have at and file on your sear and tell US when it becomes illegal....SIASD.

pontiac_fiero_g · 11-02-2009, 07:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by K75RT

Apparently you already have your agenda why even ask a question? No flame intended but you ask and will not heed proper advice, have at and file on your sear and tell US when it becomes illegal....SIASD.

reread the question. i didnt ask if i should i ask how much i can before it is an issue

big shrek · 11-03-2009, 12:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by K75RT

Please don't file on your trigger hammer or sear. This work needs to be stoned in a proper fixture.. stoning removes small amounts and leaves a flat and smooth finish. This work is not for the inexperienced, IMHO....

I used the word FILE, mostly because I didn't want him to use a power tool on it, by reading the links he would have been introduced to smoothing by stoning & polishing, if he wasn't familiar with it already

I've seen quite a few problems caused by Dremel Tools...Haven't we all...LOL

K75RT · 11-06-2009, 08:03 PM

I'm sure you know as well as I do that if you can file a sear it is too soft and there are many other problems to contend with with the arm if you can!

FortyXDM · 11-09-2009, 01:13 AM

Pontiac - I think you should listen to K75 on this. You do not want to do anything but "stone" the proper surface. When you take the trigger mechanism apart in a 10 22 it can be confusing as to which surface needs work. This is something to approach with great care. Your question as to "how much" to take off cannot be answered as there is no specific amount. Even if there were, you would not have the necessary tools to measure such a small amount of metal removed. You have to stone properly and put the mechanism back together perhaps four or five times if you wish to do it right. You can bring the pull down to a reasonable amount and not impair the function of the disconnector.

Each time you stone, you only work the surface back and forth about three or four times before reinstalling and checking.
Tom

rondog · 11-09-2009, 10:29 AM

Use of the proper Ruger Tuning Tools is the key.....

10-29-2009, 09:30 PM	#1
pontiac_fiero_g Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 261	trigger group question for 10/22 how muh can i grind the sear to reduce trigger pull before i have to worry about going full auto? i will be purchasing a vq hammer and sear soon and so im not too worried if i ruin the factory sear. i just want to make sure i dont modify it to the point of illegality. __________________ i didnt do it i promise...ok maby i did...mike

10-29-2009, 10:40 PM	#4
Chapman87 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 370	I dont know what a factory set goes for. And yes its legal. __________________ “THOSE WHO HAMMER THEIR GUNS INTO PLOWS WILL PLOW FOR THOSE WHO DO NOT” T.J.

10-30-2009, 01:01 PM	#6
big shrek Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Northwest, FL Posts: 3,128 Images: 56	don't use a grinder...file it by hand. __________________ In every Unit...there is a Scrounger...

10-31-2009, 03:23 AM	#8
big shrek Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Northwest, FL Posts: 3,128 Images: 56	Hammer Replacement and Trigger Group Disassembly - RimfireCentral.com Forums Trigger Group Modifications - RimfireCentral.com Forums Ruger 10/22 - RimfireCentral.com Forums Seeing as how I got peeved off at Ruger and sold all my Ruger products, these guys will be your best bet for any & all help on a 10/22. Ruger follows the Bill Gates/Microsoft business model...make a half-acre piece of equipment, sell it cheap, tell 'em there's aftermarket upgrade goodies, and run. Back in the old days, they called it selling Snake Oil... __________________ In every Unit...there is a Scrounger...

11-01-2009, 06:53 AM	#11
DWARREN123 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: BETWEEN TN & KY Posts: 1,098	I would suggest never grinding/filing on trigger parts. The best is to polish with no metal removal. A smooth trigger feels lighter because the parts work easier together while grinding removes metal and changes how the parts work or do not work together, also you may change surface hardness with metal removal. Another method is spring replacement to get a lighter trigger pull. Go auto once and people will look at you funny especially the FED's! __________________ Have a nice day!

11-01-2009, 01:57 PM	#13
pontiac_fiero_g Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 261	stop with the "dont do it". if i happen to ruin the factory parts then i can alwys just replace like ill be doing anyway if i cant reduce pull to an acceptable level. __________________ i didnt do it i promise...ok maby i did...mike

11-02-2009, 08:51 AM	#14
Clem321 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 142	I tried playing with parts kits to improve the trigger. One came out pretty well, the other came out less so. I eventually replaced both with Kidd triggers. Light years better than any other trigger for the 10/22.

11-06-2009, 08:03 PM	#18
K75RT Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Litchfield County, Connecticut Posts: 626	I'm sure you know as well as I do that if you can file a sear it is too soft and there are many other problems to contend with with the arm if you can! __________________ 'Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not.'

11-09-2009, 01:13 AM	#19
FortyXDM Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Gladstone, Mo. (kc area) Posts: 3,661	Pontiac - I think you should listen to K75 on this. You do not want to do anything but "stone" the proper surface. When you take the trigger mechanism apart in a 10 22 it can be confusing as to which surface needs work. This is something to approach with great care. Your question as to "how much" to take off cannot be answered as there is no specific amount. Even if there were, you would not have the necessary tools to measure such a small amount of metal removed. You have to stone properly and put the mechanism back together perhaps four or five times if you wish to do it right. You can bring the pull down to a reasonable amount and not impair the function of the disconnector. Each time you stone, you only work the surface back and forth about three or four times before reinstalling and checking. Tom
	1 members found this post helpful.

11-09-2009, 10:29 AM	#20
rondog Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Parker, CO Posts: 3,296	Use of the proper Ruger Tuning Tools is the key..... __________________ I child-proofed my house, but they still keep getting in!
	2 members found this post helpful.