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| Senior Member | New Jap T38 Arisaka Well it's new to me. Dang 6.5 barrel is longer than my Dewy cleaning rod! The ol boy that sold it said it was his fathers bring-back from Guadal Canall where he was a CB. Said it's chambered in 6.5 Spence. HUH? Want to say I've heard of "Spence" but cant find it on a google search. Any ideas? Rifle is in fair condition. Stock has been sanded. not much blueing left. Pics tba
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| Senior Member ![]() | I had a T99 Arisaka that had been sporterized...had the Mum on it...had not been ground off..had the "AA" wings on it...the ammo price was "redicerous" 6.5 Arisaka...I think yours has been rechambered for a long gone wildcat round? I sold mine to a guy that had a true stock for it...made $50 on it...
__________________ U.S. Army 1976-1979 237th Combat Engineers Heilbronn, Germany |
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| | #3 |
| Senior Member | Thanks Joe, I'm looking to make a buck on this one too. Got messing around with it, er, uhm, dianosing the chamber. Swedes did not fit. 30-06 did not fit. 7mm necked down to 6.5 fit 8mm necked down to 7 then to 6.5 fit. Even with longer neck. Started necking down the 06. Trim, neck down to 7's shoulder and check. Trim, neckup to 7 to move shoulder down. To make a long story short. It appears to be a 6.5x58. hmmm? That Right? It's bedtime zzzzzzzWill fire it next thursday, priortiys permitting then see what the chambers diamensions are. Tie to the bench. Hide behide the tree. Pull the string
__________________ [IMG]http://img287.echo.cx/img287/63/9130110x100a4vb.jpg Last edited by Full MeTal Jack; 07-22-2007 at 01:24 AM. |
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| | #4 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 700
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| | #5 |
| Senior Member ![]() Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Ohio
Posts: 587
| Back in the 50's a lot of the type 38's were rechambered to 6.5 X 257 Roberts. Ammo for the original 6.5X50 was hard to find, while 257 Roberts were common at that time.
__________________ Dave 375 H&H |
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| | #6 |
| Senior Member | too bad swedes were not popular back then. But that would require bolt and maybe extrator work. Hope it's a fair shooter.
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| | #7 |
| Senior Member | Well made some ammo from 06 cases. Trimmed to 57mm long. Expanded with 8mm full length sizer to get a shoulder forming. Necked down to 7mm. Then necked it down again in the 6.5x55, just the neck. Loaded and fit to chamber. Seems the 6.5 bullet seater or sizer cause some shoulder problems. Put them back in 7mm die to reshape shoulder. OK now. Test fire Thursday.
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| | #8 |
| Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Mich, Retired to Arizona
Posts: 31
| 6.5mm Arisaka Ammunition I brought back an almost new 6.5 short bbl. Arisaka when the war ended, and took it to my local gunsmith to find an american bullet that would fire safely, was sold a box of 250-3000 savage, they worked well but had more kick than the original Jap round. Got my first deer with it. Falcon2 |
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| | #9 |
| Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 2
| 6.5 spence Hi... this wildcat has been known by other names, but is probably best known as the 6.5 Spence - it is the 257 Roberts case necked up to 6.5, but P.O. Ackley in the first volume of his handloading guide also points out you can make the round by necking down a 7 mm Mauser - Ackley says the 257 Roberts and the 7mm Mauser are identical. If you have the Ackley book, read page 355. Why do I know this?... I recently decided to reload for a type 38 in 6.5 Spence I have had for a while. By the way, my type 38 is simply marked on the receiver 257-6.5. I do have RCBS dies, probably acquired at the time of the conversion, and they are marked Roberts/6.5 Jap. The problem is that I do not have any loads for the 6.5 Spence - Ackley has only two obsolete powders listed for this cartridge (H380 and HiVel#2), so I'll have to find out the equivalent of these in present powders. I am also going to check all my reloading manuals- if I am lucky, there might be one from the 1960s that still has loads for that round! |
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| | #10 | |
| Senior Member | Thanks for the info jelc. Excellent first post. Havent fired the dang thing yet. Rain this Thursday. I loaded several hot and will tie it down then pull the string on trigger from behind a tree. I really dont think she'll blow. Sure want to see the chamber. I have more 7x57 cases somewhere. The 06's were handy. Loading, I can make an approximation between the Swede and a 7mm mauser. Starting loads for 7mm mauser should be just fine. Cleaned up the stock with Homer Formby's funiture refinnisher. The wood already had the varish removed. The stock is surprizingly in decent shape. A few dings and dents. Handguard is excellent. Found a long crack in wrist, comb, where your hand goes. It's a two piece butt stock. Like some of the Mosin 1891s. It's cracked just above that joint. Should be easy to repair. Planning to revarnish it. Quote:
Now, Im confussed. You shot a 25 caliber from a .264 caliber barrel? I shot my first deer with the 6.5 swede 96. ![]()
__________________ [IMG]http://img287.echo.cx/img287/63/9130110x100a4vb.jpg Last edited by Full MeTal Jack; 07-27-2007 at 08:38 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost | |
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| | #11 |
| Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 2
| Hi... Yesterday I was given this link: Steve's Reloading Data Warning Page Look for the 257 Roberts/6.5 (a.k.a Spence Special) for loads. That's the only source for loading the Spence special I have been able to find. jelc |
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| | #12 |
| Senior Member ![]() Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: South Arkansas
Posts: 10,690
| jelc WELCOME to Gun and Game and thank you for the info ! ...A.H and good night ! |
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| | #13 |
| Registered User Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Central west NSW Australia
Posts: 3
| Hi Ful MeTal Jack. I have a 38 Arisaka which had a badly eroded chamber when I got it. I had it rebarrelled to .308 Winchester and it shoots like you wouldn't believe. The gunsmith who did the job said that early Arisakas were stronger tha many current firearms but later ones were not worth bothering with. Hope yours turns out to be a good one. Regards jack. |
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| | #14 |
| Senior Member ![]() Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: South Arkansas
Posts: 10,690
| irishjack WELCOME To GUN and GAME and thanks for joining ! I hope to hear more from you...A.H |
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| | #15 |
| Senior Member | Thanks for Steves Reloading Data. Cleaned rifle and found is Stamped "256 Spence" Even found recipe using Varget.
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| | #16 |
| Registered User Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: In the Sticks,Ky.
Posts: 14
| Never heard of the 6.5 "spence". Only the 6.5 jap from norma. I also own a model 38. Beautiful gun. Chrome plated with a white sling. Only thing about this gun is that some airhole decided to make a lamp out of it. Bored a hole thru the chamber and down the stock for the cord. What a waste. I do know that the guns action is as strong if not stronger than the mauser and is a flat shooter. Wish I could find another one. |
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| | #17 |
| Registered User Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: in a land far away
Posts: 11
| im a big fan of chrome plated pistols, i cant remember what but i saw a japanese one not too long ago that really blew my mind |
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| | #18 |
| Senior Member ![]() Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Ohio
Posts: 587
| PO Ackley did destruction tests on various military rifles to see how strong they were. Back in the 50's sporterizing mil. rifles was quite popular, and no one knew which ones were weak or strong. When he came to the Jap type 38 in 6.5X50 Jap he ended up putting two 160 steel core bullets in the barrel ahead of a proof load. He tied it to a truck tire and set it off with a rope. The action and locking lugs held and the only damage to the barrel was two bulges where the bullets were. He proclaimed it the strongest action ever made. I've heard some horror stories out of the Weatherby repair shop of rifles that were returned because the owners couldn't get the bolts to open. When they checked the reloads these individuals sent with the guns they found loads that they predicted would go over 200,000 psi. Like 92grs 4227 for H4831, and 88grs 2400 that was supposed to be H870. These actions were in-spec after they beat the bolts open(German made Mark V)
__________________ Dave 375 H&H |
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| Senior Member | found the recoil lug area completely broken. Spread wood apart, removed two broken lug pieces of wood. Glued and reset. Bored a hole in wood and installed brass screw with washers. After it cures will dremil off the brass head and take it down to wood. Repaired 3 other cracks. Also reblueing (cold) metal hardware. Later will varnish the stock.
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