01-15-2008, 07:39 PM
| #1 |
| Senior Member  | S&W question
I own 2 S&W revolvers, one a snub 38 Spec and other model 25-5 in 45 long colt. Problem I've had with both, ejector rod becomes loose on the ejector, causing cylinder to jam in frame. Is this a common problem with S&W revolvers? Thanks
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01-15-2008, 08:21 PM
| #2 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: 10 paces south of Canada
Posts: 763
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It is a common enough problem, one that is easily solved with a bit of LockTite.
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01-15-2008, 09:05 PM
| #3 |
| Senior Member |
10-4er, thats what I ended up doing. Cylinder on 45 long colt still wants to stick, think its the cylinder bolt release may be worn. Carried it for about 5 years as police officer. Will reolace bolt to see what that does.
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01-16-2008, 07:39 PM
| #4 | |
| Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 186
|  Quote:
If you are firing a Lot of lead Bulets they can make the face of the cylinder cruddy Fast. There is Normally between .010"-019" Of forcing cone to face of cylinder Gap and that leave's little margin for the crud to cause sticky indexing problems.I use those Lead free cloths on the face of my Cylinders to cut all the lead off fast. be careful as they will take away the bluing of Pushed to the Limit. I hope this Helps, Hammerdown | |
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02-07-2008, 10:02 PM
| #5 |
| Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 10
|  S&W 25-5
mdj-I must disagree with by buddy hammer. I would never use a lead free cloth on a blued revolver. I good cleaning should help a lot. As far as the eject rod, while LT or clear fingernail polish will work, I have found a GOOD cleaning, and proper tightening will get the job done most always. Put three empty shells in the gun with a empty chamber between them and tighten with one of these tools for a 'N' frame. JMHO  The round thingy in the middle marked S&W is the tool. You can find them on E-bay, or I believe Brownells sells them.  Last edited by Tusker; 02-08-2008 at 09:57 PM. |
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03-07-2008, 02:58 PM
| #6 | |
| Registered User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Silicon Valley
Posts: 6
| Quote:
Re: .45 Colt sticky cylinder - Before replacing parts, do the following checks and tests; [list=1][*] Be sure the ejector rod is not loose. Tighten if needed.[*] Inspect the center-pin at the rear of the cylinder for burrs or excessive wear. This pin should be rounded evenly. Dress off any burrs with a fine stone. Replace worn, chipped or damaged units. [*] Inspect the recoil shield, especially around the center-pin hole for burrs. This includes the area to the left of the hole where the pin rides during cylinder swing out. [*] With the cylinder open, ensure the cylinder release pin behind the recoil shield is flush with the recoil shield. If it is recessed it can't push the center-pin enough to release the cylinder. If this is the case, first try lubricating the release by pulling back on the thumbpiece and adding a drop of oil in the center pin hole and working it in. Otherwise you'll need to open the sideplate to inspect for burrs, debris or a weak spring.[*] Lubricate the forward ejector rod tension plunger on the underlug and work it several times. If dry or dirty, the resistance can make working the latch difficult.[*] Lubricate the center pin with a drop of oil. Since it's spring-loaded, depress the center pin and add a drop of oil, then work it several times to lubricate.[*] Inspect the forcing cone and front of cylinder for lead deposits. Remove any build-up of lead deposits. On blued guns, soaking with Kroil will help remove lead deposits. [*] Inspect to make sure the cylinder bold moves freely, lubricate if needed. Also be sure the cylinder hand retracts into the recoil shield slot fully when the trigger is releaseed. [*] Inspect the barrel-cylinder gap with each chamber lined up to the barrel. They should be the same within about .002". Write down the measurements. Sometimes you can see the gap widen and close as you move around the cylinder. Indicates a warped or bent center-pin/ejector-rod. Typical flash gap between barrel & cylinder ranges from .006" to .012". Some older specimens may be as tight as .003" however. If none of these work, I suggest letting a gunsmith take a look at it. It could be a weak cylinder release spring or some other problem internal to the action. | |
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03-08-2008, 10:40 AM
| #7 | |
| Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 186
| Quote:
Loose ejector Rod's used to be a real Common problem with S&W revolver's before they changed the Ejector threads to a left hand Thread on the more Modern Dash change series revolvers.  One important thing to remember is depending on what Age your S&W revolver really is will determine whether or not it has The older style right hand Threads on the extractor rod or if it may be the newer left hand Thread extractor rod. I think the change was in the Mid 1950's so it is safe to say , the revolvers having a right had extractor rod thread will be pre-numbered ones that do not have the model number stamped into the crane area which came after 1957, and I assume your Model 58 was The Newer style Left hand Threads, as they came out with that revolver in 1964-1965 Time Span. Another Method to prevent the Loosening of the Extractor rod is to first clean the Threads fully with Alcohol and a good Bristle brush then to Dab a small amount of Clear Nail polish on the Threads before screwing it back into place on the cylinder. I have used this method and it has proven to work very well in the past. I also have take a Plain old leather belt used for holding up your pants and placed it over The Knurled section of and extractor rod, then used Pliers on the leather Belt to Loosen the rod if The appropriate Tool is Not available, this Method will and has Worked for me in the Past. I hope this Helps, Hammerdown
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