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Old 02-28-2008, 10:46 PM   #21
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Sounds like a very good idea. If you weren`t so far away, I `d kick in for that if you could put a fresh bone in there (deer shoulder size ) and see what really happens. Damn! I guess I`ll have to do it now as well. I`d like to run the gamut of common hunting calibers, but that will depend on what the gelatin cost is. I don`t know much about the stuff, but I think I saw something about melting it down and reusing it. If that's right, I`ll definitely run all my guns and all that I can borrow from buddies through it (with bone etc) Sounds like a whole new forum/club for G@G if there is any interest. I`m up!
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Old 02-29-2008, 07:25 AM   #22
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I'm all about thinking outside of the box. That said, I'm a firm believer in using the right tool for the job. This is a true story. I come home one day to find my lovely bride pounding a nail in the wall with an indian artifact ax head. Catching myself before I scream, I smile and calmly ask why she didn't get a hammer. She said the "rock" was closer and worked just fine.

If a person had a bunch of one particular type of projectile and didn't have the means to get a more suitable "hammer" and needed the meat, and....................I would be all about it.

We are responsible as hunters to take game in the quickest way possible, going to every measure to reduce the chances of crippling or wounding. 100 grain .308 projectiles might kill deer all day. However, when a ton of good 150 grain plus bullets exist for the job, why comprimise? What do we gain?

Now, I'm not saying be an old fuddy duddy and not have fun with it. Whack yote's, ground hogs, heck, I wouldn't even laugh at someone using them on p dogs in a safe scenerio where they won't do any harm if they richoche off a rock.

Anyway, sorry for the rant.
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Old 02-29-2008, 08:20 AM   #23
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110's in 30 cal are thin jacketed bullets..... I will have to disagree. I cut a 110 and a 165 in half and the 110's are exactly the same jacket thickness. I shot the 110's into some old pressure treated 4x4s and they passed right through. I only recovered 2 of the slugs and they just shroomed out to about the size of a quarter. I think I will buy a block of ballistic jelly and see if I can get some slow mo shots into it. I am not trying to go hunting with the bare minimum, just genuinely curious. I asked some questions about .308 for black bear, and everyone told me to stay away from nosler ballistic tips, because they explode. I used a NBT to take a bear in December and it dropped like a rock with a devastating wound channel and pass through. Thanks for all the suggestions. I will keep you posted on the video once my gelatin block comes in.
When you research something,know what you are doing before saying I am wrong.The average velocity using 110gr bullets in a .308win is about 3100fps.The average velocity using 165gr bullets in the same gun is about 2700fps.If you used a thinner jacket on a 110gr bullet at higher velocity,faster rpm,more than likely it would fly apart just beyond the muzzle because even tho one bullet is heavier than the other one is spinning faster and they weigh the same across the bullet.So,even if they are the same thickness the 110gr bullet has a thinner jacket for the velocity/revolutions per minute it is doing.Any time you are firing a bullet into wood or metal that it can penetrate,the hard substance will restrict expansion of the bullet,thus not allowing energy to spread out so the energy is able to keep the bullet in a forward motion.Wood is not wet flesh which allows the bullet to dispurse much of its energy outward thus taking energy away from the forward motivation,and the faster it is going the more it will expand and the more energy it will disperse sideways.As long as the heavier bullet has more energy the more energy it can disperse out and still have more energy to push forward.The light bullet,expanding more rapidly will disperse more energy sideways much faster. I have nothing against NBT,s and think they work ok for double lung shots on medium size game.If the game is bigger or a bone is hit I would prefer a partitioned or better yet bonded bullet.Just because a bullet works flawlesly once is no sign it will the next time,so I would opt for a bullet designed for more penetration/weight retention. sam.
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Old 02-29-2008, 10:39 AM   #24
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I was not saying you were wrong. This is an inquiry not an argument. I ordered a 25# block of ballistic gelatin. I really would like to see the difference between 90gr sp .243 and 110gr sp .308. Like I said before I am not trying to hunt with the bare minimum. I have an abundance of 150, 165, and 180 gr. loads that I have loaded up for last season and never used. If I am going for big game I will definately use one of the mentioned. However where I rifle hunt in eastern NC deer are on the average of 75-90 lbs.
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Old 03-02-2008, 12:28 AM   #25
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All I have to say is Cabelas rocks. Ordered a deep penetration bullet test tube 2 days ago and it was sitting in my car port when I got home at midnight tonight. I will try and get some video or at the very least pics of as many different rounds that I can throw through it.

oh and MOD 70 the test tube is only $64 from Cabelas.

Cabela's -- The Bullet Test Tube

Last edited by jaeger; 03-02-2008 at 12:30 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 03-03-2008, 11:18 PM   #26
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Well I should have read the directions on the ballistic test tube. All I bought was the extension so you could fire rifles into it not the complete system. However it did stop the .308 110gr sp about 1/2 inch before the end of the tube. There was no fragmentation, however the slug did seperate from the jacket about half-way through. Initial expansion was not as abrupt as I thought it would be went about 3" in before completely expanding, then carried a very large 2 1/2 inch cavity and slowly tapered to a .30 cal hole. The tube I had was about 26 or 28 inches long. Got destroyed... Ill explain. Shot the 165's passed right through with about the same wound channel as the 110's. .243 90gr sp stopped about 4 inches shy of the .308 110 and fragmented into about six pieces. How did it get destroyed. Well I put a 300gr XTP .50 muzzle loader round through it. I recovered about 75% of the tube and plan on melting it back down and trying my handguns on it. I think the 110's would be fine on white tail but im gonna stick to 150-165. maybe a 130 if I can get my gun to like it.
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Old 03-04-2008, 07:20 PM   #27
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i believe what you say happened, but the test tube is only simulating flesh, not bone. shoot through a chunk of shoulder bone, and i'd be willing to bet a fair sum that the results will be different. i think its a good idea to stick with the heavier bullets.
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Old 03-04-2008, 07:25 PM   #28
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Once I melt what was left back down. I am going to put two slats of wood in the mold and then shoot it again with the 110's, and of course everything else I can throw at it until it comes apart
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Old 03-07-2008, 09:20 PM   #29
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A friend of mine is loading up for me some 110gr sp hornadys for my 308 for a deer hunt coming up.
They do work on deer i know a guy who has used them on deer one shot kills.

Ive also used 115gr Hollow points in a 270 to take two deer both 1 shot kills and shoulder shots last year.
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Old 03-08-2008, 11:28 AM   #30
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Judging by the ballistics and that it out-performed the .243 with a similar bullet I think I may still use it. The deer where I hunt are very small. However I will be moving to KY this fall and will use the 150-165's for their real deer.
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Old 03-12-2008, 08:55 PM   #31
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Jaeger,
I feel the 110gr is lighter than optimal for deer-sized game. BUT, if someone is careful to take short range, optimal shots, I'm quite sure it would kill VERY efficiently. Those who might say that a .223 55gr bullet or .243 80gr bullet would be better are the same ones who claim that a .243 with 100 gr bullets is a better killer at 100 yds than a 45/70 405gr bullet because it has more FPE. HOGWASH! I'd maybe hedge the difference and use 120-125gr as they might be better, but the thought you MUST have 150gr bullets for deer is simply urban legend. BTW, I have had very good results with 125grJHP bullets shooting cloverleafs in a .308 BAR!
BTWW...lol, I live on the Ky Tn border, ring me and try some of both state's numerous whitetails here! Ed

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Old 03-24-2008, 09:43 PM   #32
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i would think they would do just fine. from what u say it will outpreform a 243. and i think the 110s would have mor energy to go through bone and hard stuff like that.
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Old 03-24-2008, 10:38 PM   #33
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sounds like it would be great in my 10-fp!

for prairie dogs....
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Old 03-24-2008, 11:31 PM   #34
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I am going to keep it as a varmint round, and use 150's for deer. It is also great for the range, No recoil, and a box of 100 is only $12.99
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Old 03-25-2008, 12:32 AM   #35
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150s are perfect for deer. Good choice.
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Old 03-25-2008, 04:52 AM   #36
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I am going to keep it as a varmint round, and use 150's for deer. It is also great for the range, No recoil, and a box of 100 is only $12.99
This post makes the most sense off all so far you have posted in this thread.IM NOT having a go at you.I like to experiment too.But i wouldnt use a 110gn projie out of a 308 on any deer.I have a 300wm and have thought about trying a few 110gners just for a laugh on some bunnies.Wouldnt dream of shooting anything bigger than maybe a fox.The other thing you want to think about is your rifles barrel twist.The 150gn to 165gn will probably shoot the best groups anyway bro.If i ever load some 110gn in my 300wm i will be putting a target 20foot infront of my muzzle to make sure they are holding together a little.If loaded they could be going close to 2600fps from mine.Bit of a barrel burner so im not sure ill try it.Have been using remington corelokts 180gn in my 300wm and they are working well for most ive shot.Good luck and have fun.
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Old 03-25-2008, 08:11 AM   #37
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like i said, 110's are varmint bullets!


Just can't be said enough. They will blow up if hitting anything with some weight to it and not penetrate. They are meant for bunnies or prairie dogs. The smaller calibers in the same weight are not the same thing.
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Old 03-25-2008, 09:16 AM   #38
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Even for varmints with .30cal I believe 125/130gr are more accurate and do better than 110,s. sam.
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Old 03-25-2008, 10:42 AM   #39
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I used the 110's in a .308 for years for seals that were bothering us at the salmon netting. Very effective on soccer ball type targets at about 100 yards over water.

They were also very good for our small Roe deer, but I wouldn't use them on anything bigger.
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Old 03-25-2008, 03:43 PM   #40
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It would work but is far from optimum. And for the range at the price and recoil I could see no better round.
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