| | #1 |
| Registered User Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 7
| removed scope traded into m1 carbine .i'm concerned about screw holes left in upper side of chamber. am guessing will be ok any help appreciated |
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| | #2 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Mansfield, MO
Posts: 814
| Thinking your thread had been cut off some, I went to your original entry on another topic line. I noted that you mentioned four mounting holes for the scope mount. What type mount was it? What make of carbine? Usually the side mount on a carbine has 2 mounting holes. The two hole mount most likely would not be any foreseeable problem since that mounting method is fairly common. I'm not sure that 4 mounting holes would not have a tendency to weaken the receiver some which may result in hair line cracks from the top of the receiver to the holes and perhaps between the holes. Do you have photos that you can show where the mount holes are located? If you can't get them into the forum e-mail them to me at my profile address. |
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| | #3 |
| Registered User Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 7
| appreciate the reply you'll have to bare with me new to forums in general .i don't have away to take pics . the wood is slotted on the reciever the mount is labeled weaver side 1''.the serial #602xx. tried to put the screws back in but without the mount they rubbed the bolt .there is also a p cartoushe on the stock behind the trigger guard P and AAN on stock the rear sight is covering the makers name .some one had made it a varmint rifle . as you cant tell i know nothing!!!! |
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| | #4 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Ohio
Posts: 510
| If it is a 5 digit and is a USGI carbine then you should be able to see an I on the left side under the sight and a V. on the right. The makers mark would be INLAND DIV. The P is a reproofing mark from a rebuild that was done at the Augusta Arsenal (AA). The N is the final inspector's initial. The best way to "fill" the holes is to cut off a couple of screws and turn them in just aove flush then carefully smooth them down with a file. Then put a drop of instant blue on each. When you put the screws in, use some locktite on the threads to keep them from backing out. Make sure they dont go all the way through before putting the locktite on them.
__________________ I am a nobody. Nobody is perfect. Therefore, I am perfect... |
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| | #5 |
| Registered User Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 7
| thanks showed it to a local gun smith he said i was good to go .the screw holes are before the chamber? i will take your advice to clean up the look.found the I&V thanks again looks like i traded for a shooter not a historical relic to increase my portfolio. |
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| | #6 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Cobra Command Headquarters
Posts: 781
| M1 carbines are not meant for shooting, they are meant for trading......at gun shows.....to people you hope you never see again. |
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| | #7 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Ohio
Posts: 524
| Ya Taurus Fan ,we already heard you. Wasn't that funny the first time |
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| | #8 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Cobra Command Headquarters
Posts: 781
| Sorry, just couldn't help myself. I almost started a thread with that title. It is funny though, because it's true. Last edited by Taurus Fan; 03-09-2008 at 04:42 PM. |
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| | #9 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Ohio
Posts: 524
| So what do you base your statement on. I have three USGI carbines and shoot them all. Never any problems wih any of them. Now commercial made carbines are another story |
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| | #10 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Cobra Command Headquarters
Posts: 781
| Yeah I'm sure the GI versions were OK, I'm basing my statement on the few Universal's I've seen. |
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