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Old 03-11-2008, 04:23 AM   #1
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91/30 rear sight base removal

so heres my issue.....i bought that imfamous "scope mount" that replaces the rear sight leaf and it just looks bad...so after some thought i took my scope rings of my marlin model 60 and realizied they were just tall enough to mount my scope on that dovetail under the rear sight. heres were my problem starts....one pin came out with one tap and the other pin has had eveything except an atom bomb used on it and it just wont budge. im looking for just about any ideas to get this pin out so please help rid me of this hell...thanks
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Old 03-11-2008, 05:46 AM   #2
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I would apply heat carefully to the pin. Not the barrel! Sometimes they are in there good and tight. Another option, would be to drill it out if you have a drill press. Moose will come along and probably have a few ideas!
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Old 03-11-2008, 05:49 AM   #3
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If you have a computer supply store close you can buy some canned Freese that they use on PC boards and freese the pin then knock it out.. If you freese just the pin it will shrink it
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Old 03-11-2008, 06:08 AM   #4
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Now THAT's a great idea!

EDIT: I had to come back to this one! Yeed, which pin is the one left in? The front?
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Old 03-13-2008, 04:23 AM   #5
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the pin closest to the bolt/butt end
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Old 03-13-2008, 08:26 AM   #6
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OK, have you tried applying heat?
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Old 03-13-2008, 09:32 AM   #7
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I've never removed the rear sight, so my opinion is more subject to flaw, but theoretically would heating it up not make it tighter? When a substance absorbs more heat(heat=energy), the atoms in it begin to move more rapidly and the substance expands. In other words, the pin gets bigger and the hole get smaller. To me, the freeze idea makes a lot more sense. Freeze them both and the atoms in both the pin and the hole will slow down and the substance will contract, making the pin smaller and the hole bigger...
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Old 03-13-2008, 09:58 AM   #8
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If the materials are the same then they will expand/contract at the same rate and you will have no change basically. Sometimes heating the pin area helps if there was any soldering done.

Also, are you tapping the pin left to right?
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Old 03-13-2008, 11:03 AM   #9
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Heat is effective to break lock-tight or dried grease/oil loose. If it is a pure tolerance issue I would try contracting the metal by sticking it in the freezer.
Usually if a pin is that hard to knock out there is something else going on though
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Old 03-13-2008, 11:56 AM   #10
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there is always the option of using one of darrels scout mounts. they look like the best thing out there to avoid what you're going through. cost as much as my m44 though. 69.95 shipped i think. i think i might get one myself soon.
this one's for a m39


here's a link
Darrell's Scout Mount Forum - Hunting - ParallaxBill's Curio & Relic and Military Surplus Firearms Forums - Message Board - Yuku

Last edited by R5CYA; 03-13-2008 at 11:58 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 03-13-2008, 12:08 PM   #11
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If you are looking for a a scout mount, I think his is the best built one.
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Old 03-25-2008, 11:59 PM   #12
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ive got a mount already i just figured it would look nicer with the scope directly on that dovetail. thanks for all the ideas, i think ill start with the freezeing and go from there. thanks again -mike
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Old 03-26-2008, 11:32 AM   #13
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one thing before u decide to use the marlin's rings....the dovetail is a 3/8", it's only as long as the base, and you cannot use the standard-rise scope rings....you must get the ones that have the 1/8"-1/4" rise, which gives a peep hole between scope and dovetail. Reason i say that is, I got the standard rise rings, and when i mounted my 2-7x 32mm scope, the rear lens housing rests against top of receiver, and will not zoom out any from 2x....cuz the top of receiver is on a slight rise, so you need around 1/4" higher rise to clear top of receiver. That's my 2cents....it may be different on yours, but i have serious doubts that standard rise rings will work, unless u get maybe a fixed zoom scope.
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