Refinishing AK Stock and Handguards

[Parrothead]

I recently purchased a Century Yugo AK full stock. The stock was stripped and sanded when I bought it and I need to finish it. Yeah, maybe I should have looked around a bit more, but I just HAD to have an AK and I had the money, so this is what I have I've shot it quite a bit now, but I think it's high time I actually finished the wood.

I have to say that I live in an apartment and the whole spontaneous combustion thing has me worried about the BLO bit. I'm considering buying a Tru oil kit and doing it that way, too. Dad suggested polyurethane varnish from the local hardware store. I live in the desert, so I need something that will stand up to heat, dirt, and low humidity. After much contemplation, I've decided that i'd like to go with a high-gloss finish, but haven't decided on blond wood (it's pretty light as it sits) or some sort of darker stain. Your suggestions on finish would be greatly appreciated!

The other question I have about finishing relates to the hand guards. Should I finish the inside of them? If so, how do I go about getting the metal "C" shaped support out of the upper guard?

Thanks in advance !

[Big Tool]

I would go with the tru-oil. I've had much better results with it than anything else. Poly works good at sealing, but dosen't have the look of the oil finishes. "On a AK it is fine" BLo would never dry in south MS with all the humidity. With the tru-oil you can do it with a gloss finish and if you don't like it then you can knock down the sheen with some conditioner. It explains how in the directions.

I'm about to re-re finish my romanian from a earler job i did on it with tung oil. I can't stand the glossy look on a ak.

[Mosin Shooter]

Actually if you don't mind buying a new stock, foregrip and pistol grip, cheaperthandirt.com has a very nice East German AK Stock Set for $49.97. They also have several sythetic stocks, folding stocks and T6 style collapsible stocks.

[url="http://www.cheaperthandirt.com"]

[SwedeSteve]

I agree! Tru Oil all the way! The more coats, the shinier! For the inner surfaces, they aren't going to show. So you are looking to just seal the wood to protect it. Your Dad's idea about Poly would work here just fine. Just mask the handguard with tape real good and go for it.

[Parrothead]

Thanks for the replies and ideas everyone! I've decided I don't want to buy a whole new stock, so I guess I'm going to learn refinishing.

From what I've read it's basically sand in increasingly higher girt while wet allowing to dry between grits, rub with steel wool, then alternate oil coats and steel wool rubbing until desired finish is reached.

After the oil, do you apply furniture wax or what?

Thanks in advance!

[Righteous]

I just redid a garand in minwax tung oil finish, gives you the look of tung oil and blo but the protection of a varnish, 2 coats will work with a hint of gloss, want more gloss add another coat,it seals the wood and protects it from scratches and such to

[Parrothead]

Riteous,

Thanks for the info! Would I find this at the local Home Depot? How about Wal Mart?

I think I'm finally gonna get off my lazy butt and out the door, but I'll be sure to check back before I leave

[SwedeSteve]

If you use Tru Oil, you will steel wool lightly between coats then leave last coat alone for gloss finish. Then wax with Johnsons paste wax.

[Righteous]

walmart did not have it and I had to go to home depot

[Parrothead]

Thanks again, guys!
I'm probably going to go down to Home Depot and check them both out. Or I might go to Bass Pro Shops and buy the Tru oil kit. I figure I'll take my lower hand guard with me as a wood sample to show the guys at the store. Part of me just wants it over with, but the other part wants the best there is - ain't it always like that
I do have one other question left - will Tru oil do the instant fire routine if a rag with it is left bunched up like BLO or is it safe stuff?
Thanks in advance and I'll definitely share the verdict and pics of the process

[SwedeSteve]

I don't think so, but I don't know. I just dip my fingers into the Tru Oil and "masage" it in. You really have great control that way!

[Parrothead]

Thanks SwedeSteve

I went down to Home Depot and the guys there were less than helpful. I then went on over to Lowe's where some people seemed to have a clue. On their recommendation I picked up a can of Formby's Tung Oil Finish.

I just finished rough-sanding the stocks (dirt and skin oil on the wood) and I'm going to finish sanding tomorrow or Tuesday night and then it's on with the finish.

I can still take the Tung oil back (have the receipt and not used). I have a couple of questions first, though. What do you all think of Tung oil vs. Tru Oil? I'm still considering the Minwax Tung Oil finish, too. That said what can you guys tell me about Tung Oil in general? Is it good to use on a rifle? What does it look like finished? Do I need to use furniture wax afterwards - nothing on the can about that. Also nothing on the can about the whole instant flames from rags bit, either.

Should I just return it and get something else?

Thanks again !

[Righteous]

tung oil will not give you the shine like most , nor does it protect the wood in any way, they use it alot for M1's because it gives it that military look, AK's are lil different and usually have a gloss finish.The tung oil finish has dryers built in and gives your gun a scratch free finish and seals the woods. Never used the formby's stuff tho, with the mixwax I put a heavy coat on and waited about 10 min then buffed it off with a cotton rag and let it dry a day, second day I put on a second coat and only let it dry few min before buffing it off for a low gloss finish for my M!, if I had left it on longer or another coat it would have been to glossy for me.

[Parrothead]

Righteous,

Just what I was looking for! Thanks!!!

I'll stop by Home Debot on the way home tonight and pick up some of the Minwax stuff.

[win308]

I agree with your dad....Minwax semigloss urathane is much tuffer and more resistant to the elements...and it seals the wood from moisture. In the day of wooden boats, they didn't use oil finish of any kind to resist the exposure to water, they used spar varnish....and urathane is just a newer tougher varnish.....and the semi gloss version looks great.

Look at a coffee table finished in oil where a water glass has been placed without a coaster......it leaves an unsightly ring. Look at a table finished in urathane......water wipes right up without leaving any marks.....even if you leave the glass for hours. I always use Minwax urathane finishes on stocks I work on.

[Parrothead]

win308,

Thanks for the reply! Out here in the desert I don't see any time I'm going to head out in the elements with my AK, but that might change or something else could happen, right?

I've been stalled due to several other things going on, but I've got the first bit of sanding done to get the wood ready. Yeah, the oil and carbon and crap from my hands got into it, so it wasn't just a 400 grit and go, but it's ready for the 400 grit now.

I think I'll take the tung oil back to Lowe's tomorrow and pick up some urethane for the finish.

Thanks again!

[squirrelbaster]

will any of the wooden forgrips with the virtcle grips off anyother anyother aks fit on my wasr 2?

[Parrothead]

squirrelblaster - Sorry for missing this for so long! I don't know about that, but you might want to post it as a new topic to draw more attention to it

[Righteous]

Originally Posted by squirrelbaster

will any of the wooden forgrips with the virtcle grips off anyother anyother aks fit on my wasr 2?

yup they will fit it