11-30-2007, 02:53 AM
| #1 |
| Senior Member  Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Edmonds, WA
Posts: 3,635
| Bought a Century (CAI) AES-10
As I had stated in my (Thinking of buying an AES-10) thread, I was thinking of buying an AES-10 and modding it out. Well, I went ahead and purchased it for $489.99 + $43.61tax = $533.60 out the door. It included the rifle with bipod, leather sling (which I don't know how to attach), oil bottle, cleaning rod, cleaning kit that fits in the clubfoot stock, one 30 round mag, and one 40 round mag. The thing is covered in monkey-gunk. There's light cosmoline throughout but it's got metal shavings stuck in it inside the receiver which I'll need to clean out. The muzzle thread protector is welded on and I'll have to grind that weld down to get it off so that I can put the tabuk flash hider on. The bipod is free-floating and is held on by a pin that will easily pop-out as it's designed like the front guard pin on a CETME/G3 where a little spring wire keeps it in place. The sights all seem to be nice and straight, but the bolt will catch half way on the return slide sometimes if I let it go forward too easily. If I just pull it back and let go, it doesn't catch at all; I'm thinking it might just be gunk or perhaps that weird linked spring-guide. The Mags are a bit wobbly, as I expected from a non-dimple gun, but the mag-release is rather sticky and doesn't move very well. I'm wondering if it might have some metal shavings stuck in there making it hard to move. I bought 20 rounds of Golden Tiger at my local store to try after I get the rifle and mags cleaned up and I'll be giving a report of how it works out. Until then, take a look at the pics, the last three are from the auction I won: just_a_car/AES-10 - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting Edit: I forgot to mention that it has a shiny chrome-lined barrel from the back of the chamber to the crown of the muzzle. This can be seen in one of the pictures as a bright shine on the muzzle and in the picture looking down into the receiver with it disassembled. Also, you can see in one of the pictures that it has a TAPCO G2 trigger. I've read that the AES-10's don't have the classic trigger slap because of this.
__________________  Last edited by just_a_car; 11-30-2007 at 01:39 PM. |
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11-30-2007, 04:01 AM
| #2 |
| Senior Member  Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Indianapolis, IN. "The city where nothing happens."
Posts: 1,115
Blog Entries: 6 |
Heres a video of how to attach the sling. hope it helps.  Btw that is a sexy gun!!!! let us know how she shoots.
__________________ "All rifles need a sharp pointy object on the end!" http://s96.photobucket.com/albums/l195/zephri/ |
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11-30-2007, 09:57 AM
| #4 |
| Senior Member  Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Philadelphia, MS.
Posts: 378
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Very nice, I wont one to. What the bolts catching on is probably the hammer. On my wasr10 if I let the bolt down slow it will actually stop when it comes to the hammer. I read somewhere that this will cut a trench in the hammer face and cause misfires, so far my wasr10 has over 3100 rounds through it and I haven't had a problem.
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11-30-2007, 11:37 AM
| #5 |
| Senior Member  Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Just south of Central Indiana
Posts: 408
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Zephri - Good video!!
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11-30-2007, 12:32 PM
| #7 |
| Banned Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Muskogee,Ok
Posts: 1,931
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Very nice.
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11-30-2007, 01:37 PM
| #8 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Edmonds, WA
Posts: 3,635
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That was an outstanding video! I figured it had to be something like that, but I just didn't think you'd be able to get that thing through there... and it took that person some doing the first time. *chuckle* kR, that's exactly what mine is doing. It will just stop if I let down slowly. Good to know it shouldn't be too much of a problem. And, if it does become a problem, it's probably just a replacement of the hammer. Easy fix and pretty cheap. Also, I made an edit/addition to the original post in regards to the barrel and trigger. Thanks all for the compliments!
__________________ Last edited by just_a_car; 11-30-2007 at 01:39 PM. |
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11-30-2007, 03:31 PM
| #9 |
| Super Moderator   |
I have Never seen a Hammer "grooved" by the bolt since the bearing surface of the bolt to recock the hammer and then slide back over it is wider than the hammer itself. Ak hammers under spring pressure ride high enough that the bolt has to force the hammer down a bit to close into battery. They are made to "Fast Charge" and not slowly release the Bolt . Rich
__________________ You know you might be facing your doom,when all you get is a click when you're expecting a BOOM!  |
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12-01-2007, 01:10 AM
| #10 | |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Philadelphia, MS.
Posts: 378
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Just remembered, you said the muzzle nut was welded on. Are you sure it has threads under it? I don't know anything about the AES-10, but a lot of the Romanian guns of various models with a welded on muzzle nut don't have threads. For what ever reason the threads were machined off and a blank nut welded on. Some how ever do have threads under the nut. My wasr10 is one that doesn't have the threads. Of course its an older one with out the bayo lug either. Quote:
__________________ Do it today, tomorrow it may be illegal. Last edited by mike63; 12-01-2007 at 01:19 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost | |
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12-01-2007, 01:56 PM
| #11 | |
| Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Edmonds, WA
Posts: 3,635
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12-04-2007, 07:34 PM
| #12 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Edmonds, WA
Posts: 3,635
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------------ Well, took a file to the spot-weld and was lucky to find crisp threads of the 1x14LH variety underneath that muzzlenut. YAY!  After disassembling the rifle for cleaning, I think I may try making my own tabuk-style stock for it. It would be my first stock ever made by me and I haven't really honed much in the way of woodworking skills, but if I screw up, I'll just be out a chunk of wood and some time. Plus, that will allow me to add in the inch or two that I need for a length-of-pull that fits me right.
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12-04-2007, 11:44 PM
| #13 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Philadelphia, MS.
Posts: 378
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Congratulations. I'm glad to here there were threads under the nut.  Sorry if I worried you.
__________________ Do it today, tomorrow it may be illegal. |
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12-21-2007, 04:44 AM
| #14 | |
| Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Edmonds, WA
Posts: 3,635
| Quote:
 27 PM)These are no longer listed on Century's site, so I highly doubt they'll produce anymore and if they do, I'll bet they'll go up in value.
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03-11-2008, 06:40 AM
| #15 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Edmonds, WA
Posts: 3,635
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Just received the NoDak Spud Tabuk-Style Flash Hider "in the white" and it looks great. It feels way heavier than it looks, probably at least half a pound of steel. I intend on using Lauer's manganese parkerization solution on it to get it nice and black to match my AES-10 and to prevent any corrosion or damage from the hot gases that will be passing through the birdcage. Anyone have any experience with, and advice/tricks for, doing manganese parkerizing? As soon as I have it parked and on the barrel, I promise pics... so the faster you answer, the more confident I'll be about it and the quicker you guys get spiffy new pics! (Great motivator, aren't I?  )
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04-06-2008, 08:48 AM
| #17 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Edmonds, WA
Posts: 3,635
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So, I got to take it out and shoot 10 rounds of Wolf 122gr HP today out in the mountains. It was interesting, since my buddy and I brought some similar weapons, we shot the similar ones at the same time. He shot his Arsenal SLR-101 (double-stack, milled, shark-gill muzzlebreak) as I shot my AES-10 with no break or hider, just the muzzle nut (the tabuk hider is still 'in the white' and needs to be protected with a finish before having hot gases run through it). What I found really odd is that, as we stood next to each other firing, his AK, shooting Wolf military classic 124 FMJ (pretty much the same round as my black-box Wolf HP) sounded MUCH louder than my AK. The difference was like he had a *Bang!* and I had a *K-chk!*, almost as if the muzzle blast out of mine was non-existent and all I was hearing was the action of the gun. I know those rounds aren't sub-sonic, so I should at least hear the crack of the bullet. We were both wearing foam ear plugs, but he even noticed that mine was slightly quieter... I'm wondering if his muzzlebreak was the big difference, since it was essentially venting right at me, since I was to his side. Either way, it was really fun. Especially since I got to use my new 10 round magazines. The 30 and 40 round magazines didn't match my image of this gun as a designated marksman type rifle, especially with being able to aim well from a standing position with all that weight forward of the grip. I bought 2 10 round mags and 3 5 round mags (plus 3 Tapco 5-to-10 round followers) on gunbroker. The 10 round mag I used worked perfectly; and it looks great on the rifle (go back to the original post and look at the newest pictures in my album). I also purchased a scope for my AES-10: High - Tech 2.5 - 10x44 Illuminated Mil. - Dot Scope, Scopes, High Tech at Sportsman's Guide I got the 2.5-10x44 one (as there's three listed there). I want to put it on this: GilbertsGuns.com - Shotguns - Saiga - UTG Saiga Quick Detach Picatinny Rail Mount Then, I plan on putting together the front grip to get rid of the wood and improve cooling with these: AK-47 Ventilated Steel Top Guard [364 AK47 Vent upper] : BlackJack Buffers LLC AK Aluminum Tri-Rail Lower Handguard [338 Alum AK Tri-Rail] : BlackJack Buffers LLC Once I have that all on, which will put me back another $150 or so (once I scrounge all that up), I know someone that is willing to help me work out my dream of installing a wood tabuk-style side-folder rear stock with a hinge that is like the Bulgarian wire side-folder. *Gets all antsy like he's gunna explode with giddiness* No idea how much that will cost, but the stock set base is $20, then there's the milling of the hinge and the wood (which he does for a living); so probably not more than $100. I had told him I just wanted to thread one of the Bulgarian stocks and put the tabuk onto it, but he said 'nah, I'll just make a hinge up for you.' Sweet! Once I get this thing finished, I'm going to post the pics to the "meanest looking AK" thread and see if I can't "set the bar".
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04-09-2008, 04:13 AM
| #19 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Edmonds, WA
Posts: 3,635
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Got the scope yesterday... It looks AWESOME! The adjustable objective on the left part of the scope goes from 10 yards minimum to 500 yards/infinity max. My other scope with the objective adjustment on the front lens only goes from 25-500/infinity. The reticle looks really clear (fully, multi-coated optics) and the mil-dots will be great on the AES-10. Unfortunately, the illumination doesn't work unless I press down really hard on the battery cover. So, I'm going to call Sportsmans Guide to see if I should send it to them or to the manufacturer, as there's a lifetime warranty against manufacturer defect. Well, I guess that will give me time to buy the side-rail mount and some rings. 
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05-13-2008, 01:09 AM
| #20 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Edmonds, WA
Posts: 3,635
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Just took some pictures of the scope mount and scope on the rifle. I used Weaver 1" rings. I had to send back the first rings as they were Medium and the scope hit the rear sight, so I exchanged for High and it sits about a millimeter above the sight; perfect. The scope is a Famous Maker 2.5-10x44 with 7-level illuminated mil-dot reticle, side-adjustable objective and integral sunshade. It came with the flip-up, see-through scope caps. I also manganese parkerized the flash hider. It looks lighter than it actually is. When in normal light (e.g., not the flash of a camera) it's a grey that's only a little lighter than the barrel's dark grey.        I just received the Command Arms Accessories grip today and will be getting it installed with pictures probably tomorrow. Hope you all enjoy the AK-candy. ...it's still not done enough to go into the "meanest AK" thread. I intend on getting it done to my satisfaction so that I kind of "set the bar", in my opinion, for the thread.
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