| | #1 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Lubbock, Texas
Posts: 332
| Indian Enfields / Refinishing
I am considering buying an Ishapore rifle if I can find one with pretty bore and decent wood. Is it possible to strip off that old nasty black paint they used on the metal and blue it? I don't really like how it looks, but have heard you can sometimes happen across a pretty good shooter. I would most likely refinish the wood too. haha. aaron Also considering going the Century Arms route when buying one. Any luck with them, or are they all mismatched and ugly and whatnot? |
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| | #2 |
| Moderator ![]() Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Tallahassee, Florida
Posts: 10,219
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Yes, it strips right off.
__________________ Moderator of: AR15/M16, M14/M1A, New/Beginning Shooters and Militaria/Collectables. |
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| | #3 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Lubbock, Texas
Posts: 332
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any recommendations on the metal stripping? favorite products? also I have heard that certain wood finishes turn out better on guns than others... |
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| | #4 |
| Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Goshen, IN
Posts: 48
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Many years ago I had a NO4 MK1 that when I got it had been partially sporterized, and cot very well. The barrel exterior was pretty rough, having a lot of lathe ridges, but the bore was great. I spent countless hours with emery cloth smoothing and polishing the barrel. I used a cold blue, I think it was Beachwoood Caseys, on it and was pretty pleased with the results. I later bought a nice commercial walnut Monte Carlo stock for it. Turned out to a very nice looking gun. Unfortunately, I ended up trading it in on a new rifle. I really regret doing it as it was a lot better gun than what I ended up with. Plenty of patients and elbow grease and you can get reasonable results. |
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| | #5 |
| Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: the county seat of Milam county Texas
Posts: 3
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A few pics of my refinished 2A. I used Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II Parkerizing Gray. ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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| | #6 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Lubbock, Texas
Posts: 332
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That looks SHARP Tex! Pretty easy process once you get the metal clean? If you wouldn't mind, PM me with a condensed version of what you did! And also, if you did anything to the wood. Looks like you avoided the bolt sleeve... probably for good reason. |
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| | #7 | |
| Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: nebraska, VERY close to colorado, wyoming
Posts: 2
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| | #8 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Lubbock, Texas
Posts: 332
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Will there be any difference if I just decide to get a .303 enfield instead? I believe almost all of those have a regular blue finish, not the paint. Would I need to get all the old blue off and recoat with whatever? I just don't know if I want to add but another different ammo that I will have to buy, because I already have a .303. *Anyone know if there is much accuracy difference between the .303 and .308 enfields? I tend to like the features on the pre 1950s ones typically, and those .308 Ishapores are about as much in price. (and way uglier before refinish) |
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| | #9 |
| Senior Member |
I have a Mark III Ishy, FR 1946, with parkerizing fininsh under black paint. Paint job was really bad. Used lacquer thinner and 00 steel wool. Took some time but got paint off without ruining the parkerizing. For the furniture I use Crown paint and varnish remover, let it set about 1 hour and hose it off with hot water. light sanding 220 grit, then 00 steel wool for smooth finish. finish with boiled linseed oil.
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| | #10 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Lubbock, Texas
Posts: 332
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Do you have a pic mdj696? I am trying to decide what I want to do. |
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| | #11 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 299
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With the two Ishy's I have , the metal finish is great . No gobs of black paint , but more like black hard grease . The Mklll* metal parts has a paint-like coating , (suncorite ? ) thin and nicely done. This is a '45 GRI - FTR '53 by BSA ![]() The '68 2A1 looked like a big black wax pole went I bought it. Hard , dark dried grease covered it , and cosmo shoved deep to where the sun don't shine. But under all that guck... ![]() IMHO I'd take a paint stipper ( for antique furniture) and dab off the paint and see what the original finish is . Not going much more abrasive than a scotchbrite pad and "try" not to rush it. As far as the actual metal finish , it would have to be something pretty wrong before I'd take it off. Most likely just clean 'n oil and leave as is. I think that bit'o grey shows character and a fresh new finish isn't going to help it shoot any better ![]() Turk mauser ![]()
__________________ http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...LongStamp1.jpg Last edited by timberlord; 04-07-2008 at 07:44 AM. |
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| | #12 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Lubbock, Texas
Posts: 332
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I like the way you think, when it comes to gun character. I don't guess it matters how pretty the metal is. I think the only one I really was considering doing that too was one of the Ishapores from 64-65 in .308. Now I think I might just stick to the older ones in effort to keep the variance in ammos I have to buy to a minimum. I am trying to decide between a wire wrap No.1, a savage, a longbranch or what have you no 4s to go along with my No.4 Fazakerly. Love the wood on your second pic Timber |
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| | #13 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 299
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Thx , It's Luan Mahogany
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| | #14 |
| Banned | |
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