Just bought some stuff for my M44

Smokin' Nagant · 04-14-2008, 01:03 AM

hey few to this forum, but i recently purchased an m44 from my local gun shop and after a few weeks decided to get some stuff for it. i got the ati stock, a LER scope and scope mount. heres the link: COMBO SALE MOSIN NAGANT STOCK_2-7x32 SNIPER SCOPE_MOUNT - eBay (item 300215375859 end time Apr-12-08 20:58:42 PDT)
any advice for me, ill be putting this together myself. thanks!

SwedeSteve · 04-14-2008, 11:01 AM

Hey! Welcome to G&G! Congrats on the M44! Should go together fairly easy! How about a before and after pic?

marion57 · 04-14-2008, 12:28 PM

welcome to G&G and what swede said pictures !!

Geo M44 · 04-14-2008, 12:31 PM

Installing the scope mount... read the instructions. Make sure that when you remove the rear sight that you also remove the leaf spring in the sight well. It should pop out with minimal prying.

CAUTION: Never force, or over-tighten any screw as the scope mount block is ALUMINUM and the screws are STEEL.

1. Make sure that the locking/securing screws (accessed on the side of each elevation screw) are backed out. These use the smallest hex key.

2. Make sure that the 3 elevation screws (accessed from the top of the mount rail - largest hex key) are backed out even with the bottom of the mounting rail.

3. Place the base of the rail mount block into the rear sight well with the threaded screw holes forward and lined up with the pin holes on the rear sight mount (where you removed the original sight pin).

4. Insert the two hex head screws through the pin holes into the threaded base holes and snug down but do not over-tighten.

5. Level the rifle, in a rifle vise or other method, using a 9" (magnetic) torpedo level placed at the rear of the barrel (from the front of the receiver to rear bolt mount). Leave the bolt in and locked for this.

6. Remove the rear most elevation screw and associated locking screw (not used on carbines, so save as a spare) this should leave two elevation screws which contact the front and rear of the rear sight mount well.

7. Gently turn the front and rear elevation screws until they contact the metal base of the rear sight well and the scope rail is visually level. Then, using the torpedo level, adjust the elevations screws (in quarter turn increments) until the mount rail is level. Elevation screws should be snug, but not overtightened.

8. Snug down the elevation locking screws (small hex key) but do not overtighten.

9. Mount the scope rings and scope so that the eyepiece does not interfere with loading using a stripper clip.

10. Adjust the scope using windage and elevation adjusters as needed. I like using a laser bore-site with the rifle pointed at objects at known distace. i.e. stop-sign at the corner (50 yards), and the wall of a neighbors house paced off at 100 yards.

Any questions... feel free to ask.

Kismet · 04-14-2008, 12:41 PM

and consider having blue loctite handy.

Geo M44 · 04-14-2008, 12:49 PM

The ATI stock may require a little extra clearancing for the barrel and/or action. If it's too snug then take off a little plastic with a Dremel. My camo stock just required about a 1/32" on each side of the receiver. At first it may seem that the barrel is off a bit but once you bolt it all together it fits.

You will have to cut off the barrel bands/rings (a drill and cutoff wheel work fine, but be carful not to ding the barrel) as they will not fit past the bayonet tags, and even if you spread them past the barrel (this is the hard way) they will never be usable again anyway.

So, while this mod is not real severe, you won't be able to use the original wood stock again (unless you can find some screw-type replacement barrel bands).

Before you mod the rifle, just check to make sure that it is not a real collector (like a 1943 or 1944 Tula).

Enjoy!

sh4d0ww4rri0r · 04-14-2008, 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Geo M44

10. Adjust the scope using windage and elevation adjusters as needed. I like using a laser bore-site with the rifle pointed at objects at known distace. i.e. stop-sign at the corner (50 yards), and the wall of a neighbors house paced off at 100 yards.

Any questions... feel free to ask.

I am pretty sure if your neighbors found out what you were pointing at their house they wouldn't be all that happy. haha

Anyway, where did you find that laser bore sighter? I have been looking and the closest I can find is 30-06 or 308. And I really dont want to stick anything in that chamber that doesnt belong. Especially if it is not rimmed.

Geo M44 · 04-14-2008, 01:09 PM

As luck would have it, the .204 fits nicely into a 7.62 x 54R brass cartridge.
I used a tubing cutter at the base of the Bulgarian brass case to separate it, and drilled the primer pocket out to 1/4" so that I could access the on-off switch (on the bottom of the .204 case).

I put a few turns of scotch tape around the base of the .204 to keep it centered at the bottom. Fit the two pieces of 7.62 x 54 snugly together and used 1 turn of scotch tape to keep them joined.

You can't close the bolt (due to the scotch tape) but the round is nicely and snugly centered in the bore with light finger pressure. Use a cleaning rod with plastic tip to gently tap it out when done. Don't forget to turn off the laser.

Be careful not to look at the laser as it will do harm.

The great thing is that I can use this on my .204 Ruger (someday when I get one).

SwedeSteve · 04-14-2008, 01:22 PM

.308, 30-06, 7,62x54 are all .308 diameter bullets. If it fits one, it will fit all. You can also buy lazer boresighters with different arbors, or adjustable ones.

Smokin' Nagant · 04-14-2008, 02:46 PM

ok, thanks for the quick and informative reply. i checked my guns on 7.62x54.net and its rarity rating is 1 out of 10, its a 1944 Izhevsk M44. i have already removed the bayonet lug, so the bands wont be a problem. is that laser bore needed to zero the scope or can i have someone with experience do it without a tool. thanks again, ill be sure to take pics once it get here in a couple of days.

Geo M44 · 04-14-2008, 03:16 PM

Most gun shops can sight it in for you. I just like the convenience and satisfaction of doing it myself.

My neighbors will never know, as luckily there are no windows on that side of their house (garage). I did kinda freak a guy out one night with the laser dot on the stop sign (50 yds). Most of the time I use the 100 yard marker (house) so no one sees it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SwedeSteve

.308, 30-06, 7,62x54 are all .308 diameter bullets. If it fits one, it will fit all. You can also buy lazer boresighters with different arbors, or adjustable ones.

The muzzle mount types are pretty universal, and if I buy another one that will be it. The standard .30 cal in-the-breech receiver type bore site (30-06 etc.) have a hard time staying centered in the MN breech.

You can also send in some brass and have one custom made... but where's the fun in that? And besides the .204 is the cheapest of the bunch. Yankee ingenuity...

Smokin' Nagant · 04-14-2008, 03:34 PM

also, i was looking at some permanent muzzle breaks and found these what do u think?
Muzzle Brakes

Capt'n Mil Coll · 04-14-2008, 03:59 PM

Welcome to G&G Smokin. One rule is ya gotta have pics.

I noticed Sportsmans Guide had these when I was in there the other day. about $40

Geo M44 · 04-14-2008, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Capt'n Mil Coll

Welcome to G&G Smokin. One rule is ya gotta have pics.

I noticed Sportsmans Guide had these when I was in there the other day. about $40

Yup, I have the .204 version that is mounted inside of a 7.62 x 54R as described earlier.

The .204 was $30. The rest were $40.

04-14-2008, 01:03 AM	#1
Smokin' Nagant Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 137	Just bought some stuff for my M44 hey few to this forum, but i recently purchased an m44 from my local gun shop and after a few weeks decided to get some stuff for it. i got the ati stock, a LER scope and scope mount. heres the link: COMBO SALE MOSIN NAGANT STOCK_2-7x32 SNIPER SCOPE_MOUNT - eBay (item 300215375859 end time Apr-12-08 20:58:42 PDT) any advice for me, ill be putting this together myself. thanks!

04-14-2008, 11:01 AM	#2
SwedeSteve Thor's Hammer Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Alaska Posts: 12,659 Images: 1	Hey! Welcome to G&G! Congrats on the M44! Should go together fairly easy! How about a before and after pic? __________________ Thank God we don't get as much Government as we pay for! -Will Rogers

04-14-2008, 12:28 PM	#3
marion57 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Missouri Posts: 3,135	welcome to G&G and what swede said pictures !! __________________ You can have my gun when you pry it from my cold dead fingers Please Mr Custer I dont wanna go

04-14-2008, 12:31 PM	#4
Geo M44 Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: The Desert Posts: 2,401	Installing the scope mount... read the instructions. Make sure that when you remove the rear sight that you also remove the leaf spring in the sight well. It should pop out with minimal prying. CAUTION: Never force, or over-tighten any screw as the scope mount block is ALUMINUM and the screws are STEEL. 1. Make sure that the locking/securing screws (accessed on the side of each elevation screw) are backed out. These use the smallest hex key. 2. Make sure that the 3 elevation screws (accessed from the top of the mount rail - largest hex key) are backed out even with the bottom of the mounting rail. 3. Place the base of the rail mount block into the rear sight well with the threaded screw holes forward and lined up with the pin holes on the rear sight mount (where you removed the original sight pin). 4. Insert the two hex head screws through the pin holes into the threaded base holes and snug down but do not over-tighten. 5. Level the rifle, in a rifle vise or other method, using a 9" (magnetic) torpedo level placed at the rear of the barrel (from the front of the receiver to rear bolt mount). Leave the bolt in and locked for this. 6. Remove the rear most elevation screw and associated locking screw (not used on carbines, so save as a spare) this should leave two elevation screws which contact the front and rear of the rear sight mount well. 7. Gently turn the front and rear elevation screws until they contact the metal base of the rear sight well and the scope rail is visually level. Then, using the torpedo level, adjust the elevations screws (in quarter turn increments) until the mount rail is level. Elevation screws should be snug, but not overtightened. 8. Snug down the elevation locking screws (small hex key) but do not overtighten. 9. Mount the scope rings and scope so that the eyepiece does not interfere with loading using a stripper clip. 10. Adjust the scope using windage and elevation adjusters as needed. I like using a laser bore-site with the rifle pointed at objects at known distace. i.e. stop-sign at the corner (50 yards), and the wall of a neighbors house paced off at 100 yards. Any questions... feel free to ask. __________________ Remember when seconds count... the police are only minutes away.

04-14-2008, 12:41 PM	#5
Kismet Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: rural WI Posts: 191	and consider having blue loctite handy. __________________ Kis Safety? SAFETY??? Is gun for to shoot, not to be on SAFETY!!!

04-14-2008, 12:49 PM	#6
Geo M44 Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: The Desert Posts: 2,401	The ATI stock may require a little extra clearancing for the barrel and/or action. If it's too snug then take off a little plastic with a Dremel. My camo stock just required about a 1/32" on each side of the receiver. At first it may seem that the barrel is off a bit but once you bolt it all together it fits. You will have to cut off the barrel bands/rings (a drill and cutoff wheel work fine, but be carful not to ding the barrel) as they will not fit past the bayonet tags, and even if you spread them past the barrel (this is the hard way) they will never be usable again anyway. So, while this mod is not real severe, you won't be able to use the original wood stock again (unless you can find some screw-type replacement barrel bands). Before you mod the rifle, just check to make sure that it is not a real collector (like a 1943 or 1944 Tula). Enjoy! __________________ Remember when seconds count... the police are only minutes away.

04-14-2008, 01:09 PM	#8
Geo M44 Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: The Desert Posts: 2,401	As luck would have it, the .204 fits nicely into a 7.62 x 54R brass cartridge. I used a tubing cutter at the base of the Bulgarian brass case to separate it, and drilled the primer pocket out to 1/4" so that I could access the on-off switch (on the bottom of the .204 case). I put a few turns of scotch tape around the base of the .204 to keep it centered at the bottom. Fit the two pieces of 7.62 x 54 snugly together and used 1 turn of scotch tape to keep them joined. You can't close the bolt (due to the scotch tape) but the round is nicely and snugly centered in the bore with light finger pressure. Use a cleaning rod with plastic tip to gently tap it out when done. Don't forget to turn off the laser. Be careful not to look at the laser as it will do harm. The great thing is that I can use this on my .204 Ruger (someday when I get one). __________________ Remember when seconds count... the police are only minutes away.

04-14-2008, 01:22 PM	#9
SwedeSteve Thor's Hammer Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Alaska Posts: 12,659 Images: 1	.308, 30-06, 7,62x54 are all .308 diameter bullets. If it fits one, it will fit all. You can also buy lazer boresighters with different arbors, or adjustable ones. __________________ Thank God we don't get as much Government as we pay for! -Will Rogers

04-14-2008, 02:46 PM	#10
Smokin' Nagant Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 137	ok, thanks for the quick and informative reply. i checked my guns on 7.62x54.net and its rarity rating is 1 out of 10, its a 1944 Izhevsk M44. i have already removed the bayonet lug, so the bands wont be a problem. is that laser bore needed to zero the scope or can i have someone with experience do it without a tool. thanks again, ill be sure to take pics once it get here in a couple of days.

04-14-2008, 03:34 PM	#12
Smokin' Nagant Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 137	also, i was looking at some permanent muzzle breaks and found these what do u think? Muzzle Brakes