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Old 04-23-2008, 10:13 AM   #1
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10/22 question

Ok, I know that a general rule for accuracy is to free float a barrel, have no pressure on it, etc. So, why does the 10/22 carbine have a barrel band?? Shouldn't this make it less accurate? I know the barrel band definitely touches the barrel and you tighten it against the stock, I can't figure out why. My 10/22 carbine is extremely accurate with the right ammo (it likes cci velociters the most). Mine is also completely stock and it shoots 10 shots about the size of a nickel at 30 yds. I know thats not real far but for rimfire that is a fair distance i belive. i like to think this is very good accuracy for a factory rifle, correct me if I'm wrong.

Sorry if this is a stupid question, along with my other thread for the day, i have just been wondering both these for awhile and decided to ask lol.
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Old 04-23-2008, 10:17 AM   #2
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i took the barrel band off mine..... i think it makes people feel better to have it on there or somthng wussy like that.....
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Old 04-23-2008, 10:21 AM   #3
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hmm idno what the point of it is but mine is still on and mine still shoots good lol
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Old 04-23-2008, 10:26 AM   #4
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i dont think im the only one on this forum to take the barrel band off, this did comeup once before. im sure some of the smarter members will come on and talk about it.
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Old 04-23-2008, 10:33 AM   #5
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I have shot many 10/22s and all shoot well out of the box. I own four and the most accurate is one that I built that now has $1300 into it. At 75 yds. it will put a box of CCI Greentag through a circle the size of a quarter without touching the ring. The only reason to modify an out of the box 10/22 is for fun.
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Old 04-23-2008, 10:34 AM   #6
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Well someday i may do that but for now i am poor and need a varmint rifle next lol
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Old 04-23-2008, 11:32 AM   #7
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I understood it as, a free floating barrel is used so that when a barrel heats up and expands, it doesn't push off of a stock and change point of aim. (am I correct here?)

If so, then I'm not sure how much this would affect a .22 rifle. I know that .22's get sort of hot, but we're not talking the burning leather heat that an SKS or 30-06 can produce.
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Old 04-23-2008, 11:35 AM   #8
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the way I undersand it its not to do with the heat, but that when the shot is fired the barrel and the stock resonate (vibrate) at a diffrent rate wich then can trow the shot off a bit. this is just how i understood it, hopfull someone will come on and tell if its true!
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Old 04-23-2008, 04:14 PM   #9
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General, but not total rule

In larger bore calibers (beyond .22 long rifle and .22 magnum) you will find the barrel threaded and screwed into the receiver. This situation is where
you will find free floating (keeping the barrel out of contact with the stock when the gun is fired-note just not touching the stock when observed is not good enough as the barrel will move, this is, whip during firing) often has an advantage.

Now, in .22 long rifle and .22 magnum rifles you will seldom find the barrel threaded and screwed into the stock. Most often you will find it pinned
(a matching hole in a steel barrel and an aluminum receiver through which a metal pin is driven). This saves money for the manufacturer but does not produce the alignment/ridigity from barrel to receiver for the accuracy you would get from a true target grade .22 with the steel barrel threaded and screwed into a steel receiver. A barrel band is a way to offset the situation somewhat by further anchoring the barrel against the "play"
allowed by the pin connection of receiver and barrel.


Therefore, most of your .22 long rifle and .22 magnum rifles simply do not have the accuracy of the more expensive manufacturing option. However, they are accurate enough for the general public and certainly accurate enough for shooting tin cans and/or small game such as rabbits at reasonable ranges.

The 10/22 has a world of aftermarket barrels some of which are quite target-grade-bull-barrel heavy. Another option would be to have the receiver and barrel glass bedded as a further way to "lock them up and line them up". If you have never done this I would advise letting a gunsmith do this type work.

Were I to purchase a 10/22 today I would do the following:

A. Remove the Ruger trigger assembly to replace it with a
quality aftermarket trigger mechanism. A good gunsmith can
recommend a source for this item.

B. After installation of a good trigger mechanism I would have the
entire gun glass bedded to the stock keeping the barrel band
as a further stabilizer between the gun and the stock.
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Old 04-23-2008, 08:25 PM   #10
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makes sense thanks...
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Old 04-23-2008, 08:39 PM   #11
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Right now my rifle(10/22) is completely stock except for the stock(why is a rifle called "stock"?). I built my own and it has a free floating barrel with plenty of clearance if I ever want to go for a 1 inch barrel.
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