Cleaning a .22

[rmarrion]

What is the real proper way to clean a .22 bolt action? I have a universal cleaning kit, and my cleaning patches will not fit through the barrel with the cleaning rod. Also, what kind of rust protector/lubricant should I use?

[ArkansasHunter]

rmarrion I have to trim the patches with sissors or I'll have the same problem...A.H

[Ron AKA]

I like the .22 Boresnake. I have a stainless barrel, and just use it as it is, about every 200-300 rounds.

Ron

[LakerDad]

I use WD-40 on real "dirty" guns parts. DO Not use as a final lubricant. WD-40 solvents will remove all oils and Will Not protect your metal parts. I like the Remington Rem oil and Break Free CLP. There are many other products that will do the job too. Just check you local gun shop or Wally World.
A word of caution when running the cleaning rod down the barrel, insert it straight into the barrel, do not jam it into the crown [the beginning area of the barrel] I like to run the cleaning rod thru the chamber when I can, ie...bolt actions, Cetme, AR, AK, rolling block actions.
Another thing to consider, maybe at a later date, is lead and copper removal.
The build up of these items over a period of time will affect the performance of your shooter.
There's more to cleaning if you shoot corrosive ammo. A good sign that you have shot corrosive is when you see a green bore, the salts have started "eating" your barrel. Black powder, older military ammo and 3rd world ammo are good examples of corrosive. Beware of ads that state slightly corrosive, IT IS corrosive!
If you have a stainless steel gun, clean and oil it like a blued gun. The stainless will rust, try a magnet, it will stick, that means it has iron ore in it and will rust.
If you have any parts on your gun that is aluminum, it will most likely be a annodized finish which takes more to care for. Some cleaners will damage this finish if used.
Like AH said, I cut the patches to fit also.

[reverend ron]

More 22 bores have been ruined by cleaning than by shooting. Bore snakes and pull through type like Otis are best for 22s and 17s.

[killer]

I've talked with both camps regarding cleaning a .22 Some swear they never clean a .22 and some insist it helps accuracy. I've heard it said an aluminum rod is the worst thing you can use. The soft metal will pick up grit and grind it into your barrel rifling.

Guess I'd go slow with the rod.

Here's a question regarding cleaning I've got. If a new rifle is fired at the factory (and they all must be due to liability) can't some of them sit for years "dirty" before they are purchased?

Apparently letting them sit dirty for a few weeks or months ain't as bad as we think?

[reverend ron]

Originally Posted by killer

I've talked with both camps regarding cleaning a .22 Some swear they never clean a .22 and some insist it helps accuracy. I've heard it said an aluminum rod is the worst thing you can use. The soft metal will pick up grit and grind it into your barrel rifling.

Guess I'd go slow with the rod.

Here's a question regarding cleaning I've got. If a new rifle is fired at the factory (and they all must be due to liability) can't some of them sit for years "dirty" before they are purchased?

Apparently letting them sit dirty for a few weeks or months ain't as bad as we think?

Only custom and HIGH end guns are cleaned at the factory after test fire. When I do cleaning seminars, I always use new guns to show why they should be cleaned before sighting.

[SgtKnuckles]

Choose .22 Knockout Barrel Cleaning Kit knocks out barrel residue quickly and easily!
Cleans out powder and other fouling residue in a jiffy. Simple "two-pass" system makes it quick and easy. Pass through once with the brush, then once with the rope... that's all it takes! Kit includes one gauge-specific brush with feed line and one gauge-specific finishing rope.
Knockout Barrel Cleaning Kit, Shooting Supplies, G.S.M at Sportsman's Guide
~Cleaning is covered in this Thread~
http://www.gunandgame.com/forums/22-...sassembly.html (Cleaning without disassembly?)

[.22guy]

Boresnake and a patchworm. Only when the barrel looks like it has sand in it.

[Fatstrat]

1st I"d suggest a solid one piece rod w/bore guide. Easily and afforably obtainable at most any gunshow.
Then on a bolt action or any gun where it's possible. I'd remove the bolt, run the rod down the barrel and attach cleaning tools/patches/brushes etc at receiver end. Then PULL them thru the bore.
I agree that w/modern ammo a .22 rifle doen't need to cleaned after every outing. That was true when corrosive ammo was the norm. But not anymore.
A boresnake is a fine shortcut to clean powder reidue fouling for several hundred rounds. But when you begin to notice failing accuracy or feeding/extraction problems, Time for a thorough disassembly cleaning w/rod/patches/brush etc.

[DWARREN123]

Any of the main name brand lubes/cleaners will work for cleaning. I only clean the bore when accuracy goes bad. Clean the chamber and wipe off the bolt. Wipe down all metal parts with lube, very lightly. Not much to cleaning a .22lr. Use a correct fitting rod when you do clean the bore.

[andrew cochran]

I use a boresnake with Hoppies 9 and Rem oil.

[scoutman]

Originally Posted by LakerDad

I use WD-40 on real "dirty" guns parts. DO Not use as a final lubricant. WD-40 solvents will remove all oils and Will Not protect your metal parts. I like the Remington Rem oil and Break Free CLP. There are many other products that will do the job too. Just check you local gun shop or Wally World.
A word of caution when running the cleaning rod down the barrel, insert it straight into the barrel, do not jam it into the crown [the beginning area of the barrel] I like to run the cleaning rod thru the chamber when I can, ie...bolt actions, Cetme, AR, AK, rolling block actions.
Another thing to consider, maybe at a later date, is lead and copper removal.
The build up of these items over a period of time will affect the performance of your shooter.
There's more to cleaning if you shoot corrosive ammo. A good sign that you have shot corrosive is when you see a green bore, the salts have started "eating" your barrel. Black powder, older military ammo and 3rd world ammo are good examples of corrosive. Beware of ads that state slightly corrosive, IT IS corrosive!
If you have a stainless steel gun, clean and oil it like a blued gun. The stainless will rust, try a magnet, it will stick, that means it has iron ore in it and will rust.
If you have any parts on your gun that is aluminum, it will most likely be a annodized finish which takes more to care for. Some cleaners will damage this finish if used.
Like AH said, I cut the patches to fit also.

thats why whenever i clean my yugo SKS that i get greenish blue patches when i get done

[roadie]

Be happy it's not a 10/22, the bolt in that things is a pain to get back in..at least for me it is.

[GlennM]

IMHO avoid screw-together multiple-piece cleaning rods like the plague. Boresnake or a high quality single-piece stainless steel cleaning rod. I only resort to brass brushes for very leaded-up rifling or pieces of crap that my friends bring me that haven't been cleaned in 20 years.

And the only lubricant I've used for the last 10 years is Breakfree CLP.

[338RemUltraMag]

cleaning patches and the whonderous stuff called bore butter it is meant for black powder but works great for centerfires too. and it makes a great lube for your bolt and barrel plus it puts a good shine on metal

plus it is food grade so there are no harsh chemicals it is safe for items used on food... cool stuff