| | #1 |
| Senior Member | How do you get the blueing off of a rifle? I have been looking at several rifles lately that have had all of the blueing removed. How is that done, I ask because I must say that the gun metal without the blueing looks pretty nice, and I'd like to do it to one of my mosins.
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| | #3 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Little town in ARKANSAW!
Posts: 2,155
| If you do it you will have more problems with rust.
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| | #5 |
| Military Rifle Collector ![]() | Most of my battle rifles have had the blueing removed by sand blasting, getting mud baths, getting a grass massage by dragging, getting knocked against trees, buildings, broken rubble, tanks, grenade blasts, LST's and just plain wear and tear. Probably easier using blue remover. I think someone said ammonia works as well but I have never used it. The whole reason for blueing is to prevent rust so I would think twice about leaving it in the white.
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| | #6 |
| Senior Member | I found out the hard way that the gel "rust remover" also removes blueing. It works in less time than it takes to reach for a rag to wipe it off. I had an old CVA Bobcat that was rusted up inside, so me being the genius that I am, decided to use rust remover to clean out the barrel. It worked like a charm.... Like the other guys said, the bare metal will rust almost overnight if it's humid. You CAN give it a light spray with polyurethane to keep the rust away, but you have to be REALLY careful and wipe down all of your small moving parts and keep the spray out of every place you don't want gummed up (internal parts). I did it to the bobcat, and it didn't look half bad, but I wouldn't do it on any of my other guns. Last edited by HARDERTR; 04-27-2008 at 07:55 PM. |
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| | #7 |
| Mr. Fixit ![]() | I have to disagree with the rusting after bluing removal. If you take the proper precautions, it will work just fine-just look at how many unblued Mosin bolts there are out there.
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| | #8 |
| Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: The Desert
Posts: 2,210
| If you like em shiney... why not buy a chromed MN from Classic Arms?
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| | #9 |
| Senior Member | well, why buy a chromed one when I can make mine shiny...and there is no humidity where I live, it would be a freak of nature if it rusted...not in southern Nevada.
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| | #10 |
| Senior Member ![]() Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 5,500
| As long as you keep an eye on it and clean it regularly, it won't rust. If it's going to be left for long term, just coat it with something that will stay on it and again, it won't rust. A non-blued or a firearm with the finish gone or no finish just requires more TLC and preventative maintenance is all.
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| | #11 | |
| Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: The Desert
Posts: 2,210
| Quote:
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| | #12 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: San Diego
Posts: 186
| I had problems with the bolt rusting and tarnish after boiling it. (Won't do that again) Anyway I cleaned off the rust with some brake parts cleaner and then used mag polish. I got it all shiney and ince then have not had any issues. Just keep em lightly oiled. Ammonia takes off the blue? Like windex or does it have to be stronger? |
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| | #13 |
| Moderator ![]() Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Tallahassee, Florida
Posts: 10,218
| Naval Jelly does a real fine job of stripping off the blueing. I used it when I refinished a buddy's Mosin. Problem is, some parts are very difficult to reblue. The buttplate simply would NOT take the Birchwood-Casey cold blue. After stripping, you could refinish it with a good clearcoat, and keep the silver appearance looking good.
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| | #14 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: ctrl,alt,del
Posts: 183
| I reblued the buttplate on my 91/30 and it took just fine, looks great, guess it depens on what has gotten on the metal in the past I suppose. |
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| | #16 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: ctrl,alt,del
Posts: 183
| That too. |
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| | #17 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: living in Alabama now
Posts: 239
| Vineagar removes bluing to some extent. After polishing a piece of metal that is destined for the hot tank, I wipe it down with vineager, rinse thoroughly with warm water and dry with clean towels. Then its off to the blueing tank. PS....it also works good to clean windows and dishes! |
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| | #18 |
| Senior Member | hmmmm.....was just looking at some M-N's here at local shop....the 91/30's look different than mine....evrything looks blued except bolt....hell, the parts on mine that arent blued are: barrel bands, crossbolt(in forehand slots), place where rear sight base was, the forestock nosecap, the lil end piece on upper barrel cover, the metal slot pieces where strap hooks thru, butt plate, errrrm....think thats it. the top of receiver must be getting thin on the blueing, starting to get a lil surface rust dots here and there....guess i'll see about getting it blued. anyone got any particular brand of blueing substance they'd suggest being good?
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| | #19 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Little town in ARKANSAW!
Posts: 2,155
| I like Birchwood casey bluing system. You can find it one here Sporting Goods Equipment - Fishing, Camping, Hunting, Boating, Marine, & Outdoors Gear & Equipment - Bass Pro Shops
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| | #20 |
| Senior Member | thanks, that helps....my bro-in-law told me to try and get a single or 2step process....guess he's figures i'm not a multi-tasker and would screw up on anything over 2steps
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