Re:thinking of getting an M1a

FutureMarine · 11-28-2005, 10:17 PM

I was thinking of getting an M1a. I currently have 750 dollars saved up, and i have a lot more coming with my yard work business blooming:gangster: . I saw a gun on this one website that was 1,200 Brand NIB(New in box), but i have to make sure my dad approves when I get the money. Hopefully he will:guitar:

RodneyKSig · 11-30-2005, 12:57 PM

For what purpose do you intend to use the fine instrument of warfare that is the M14/M1a? I was planning to get one to do some hog extermination in South Texas considering their varmint status and possibly for competition. I am not dogging you I am just curious. I personally believe that the rifle would be wonderful to own and I aspire to do so therefore, when you get yours let me know your how it performs.

FutureMarine · 11-30-2005, 06:36 PM

IF I get mine I am sure it will shoot great. Afterall, its only(in my opinion) the best rifle ever produced.

heilung · 12-05-2005, 08:07 PM

Save your money. Have the Marines get one for you. Its a great battle rifle, but sucks for hunting. I have several, but a 3006 Springfield with a nice scope is far better for targets and hunting. What do you need 10-20 rounds for anyway, unless they REALLY start crashing the border. If you are a Marine headed for battle and the Marines wont give you what you need, let me know. Maybe you can HAVE one of mine. Heilung

12-05-2005, 08:49 PM

Buy what you want ! :right:

FutureMarine · 12-06-2005, 09:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by heilung

Save your money. Have the Marines get one for you. Its a great battle rifle, but sucks for hunting. I have several, but a 3006 Springfield with a nice scope is far better for targets and hunting. What do you need 10-20 rounds for anyway, unless they REALLY start crashing the border. If you are a Marine headed for battle and the Marines wont give you what you need, let me know. Maybe you can HAVE one of mine. Heilung

Ill keep that in mind Heilung

Gyrene · 12-07-2005, 12:47 AM

The basic M1A can be a good rifle, sometimes taking you a while to get everything right, on it. I have written about them many times, and I suppose if one were to search this web site, you could find what I have written. In lieu of that, I will address some of it, for your benefit.

Remember, I do not currently own any Springfield Armory (Commercial), Geneseo, IL product. Do not confuse Springfield Armory (Commercial), Geneseo, IL with the US Government Springfield Armory, Springfield, MA., they are not the same, and their products are not the same. I will shortly be buying a Springfield M1A Super Match, which is new-in-the-box, but was produced several years ago.

Springfield Armory (Commercial), Geneseo, IL. advises you to not disassemble the M1A, because it may void your warranty, and it will, according to them, lose its accuracy, requiring you to resight it. They also advise you (as do most firearms manufacturers) "Do not use reloads, as that will void your warranty." All of these statements are true, however if you want the best accuracy, and reliability, most of these warranty restrictions have to be violated.

When you receive the rifle, the bolt and receiver are adequately lubricated. The M1A is a machine, and a machine runs on grease which has not usually been properly placed in the M1A. Besides the Bolt and Receiver, the Operating Rod, the Operating Rod Spring, the Operating Rod Guide, the Operating Rod Spring Guide, and the bottom of the barrel just in front of the receiver, ABSOLUTELY NEED GREASE. To put that grease in the proper places, the M1A requires disassembly.

A sure sign of the M1A internal parts needing lubrication, will usually manifest itself with the Magazine, and/or the Trigger Group falling out of the M1A when you fire it! It happens regularly, at our range with new M1A's! Part of this is due to the parts not being correct, and needing to be replaced by USGI parts. The Bolt, the Operating Rod, and the whole Trigger Group should be USGI, as should the Rear Sight (the T105E USGI Rear Sight is the easiest one to find). Get a N/M Rear Sight, with the "Lock Bar" for the best consistency and accuracy.

The Gas Cylinder Assembly has to be run without lubrication, DO NOT PUT GREASE OR OIL into the Gas Cylinder Assembly. It is OK to wipe the Gas Cylinder parts with an oily patch, after cleaning, but then you need to dry all of the parts with a dry cloth or dry patch, leaving only a slight trace of oil on those parts to help prevent rust.

Cleaning! Most of us have been taught to keep their rifles scrupulously clean, and that is not necessarily a bad thing. KEEP IN MIND, MORE RIFLES (and handguns) HAVE BEEN RUINED BY IMPROPER CLEANING, THAN HAVE BEEN RUINED BY NOT CLEANING THEM AT ALL! I recommend cleaning the parts that dust and dirt collect on, and in. I do not recommend cleaning the barrel, unless one of two conditions exist!

First: If you have fired corrosive ammo in the rifle, then the Bolt, Receiver, Barrel, and Gas Cylinder Assembly absolutely need disassembly and cleaning; preferably with HOT SOAPY WATER, followed by pouring boiling hot water over the cleaned parts (this should self dry); followed by drying the parts, then a regular cleaning with solvent and oil!

Second: If the rifle has lost accuracy, you may have a buildup of copper in the barrel, that is causing trouble, and it must be cleaned out.

Barrel break in! It is your rifle, do what you think is best. My recommendation, is WHY? Everything that travels through the barrel wears it out. I have never broken in a barrel and have never had to replace one, some with more than 20,000 rounds through them, and they still shoot well. I have friends who religiously clean their barrels, some after every shot, and some every 50 or 100 shots, and some at the end of every competition season (or when they lose accuracy). The people who clean their barrels the most wear them out sooner, and usually end up replacing them after 500 to 1,000 rounds. Barrel break in! It is your rifle, do what you think is best.

Surplus 7.62 x 51mm and .308 ammunition is drying up, partly because the Army and Marine Corps are re-employing the M14, because the M4/M16 does not do the job they need done, and they are buying the ammo up. Foreign manufactured ammo is always suspect as being CORROSIVE, with only a few manufacturers not building corrosive ammo. British (Radway Green), South African, Malaysian, Portuguese, Austrailian, 7.62 x 51mm are NON-CORROSIVE, but almost impossible to find now. 7.62 x 51mm and .308 are different, and your barrel should have the correct caliber stamped on them; I have seen them with both (not the same barrel) .308 and 7.62 x 51mm. With unfired new manufactured .308 and 7.62 x 51mm, both can be fired successfully in either .308 and 7.62 x 51mm barrels, but if the cases are previously fired in a 7.62 x 51mm chamber, they may not work in a .308 chambered rifle.

If you reload, for best accuracy use 168 grain Sierra Match King HPBT bullets, and IMR 4895 powder. The amount of powder you should find in a reloading book. Get 3 reloading books, and use their guidelines as to how much powder to use (1 book could have a misprint, but 3 should have 2 very close, in quantity of powder). The most accurate commercial ammo for the M1A, is Federal Gold Medal Match, which uses the 168 grain Sierra Match King HPBT bullet (I have been told they also use 4895 powder, too). DO NOT USE ANY AMMO WITH BULLETS HEAVIER THAN 180 GRAIN, you can destroy your rifle, if you do!

`

publius · 04-26-2008, 07:44 PM

It's true that it's safe to fire 7.62x51mm ammo in a rifle headspaced for .308 Win, but the converse is not true. This is because 7.62x51 chambers headspace longer. The reason being the sloppier chamber will accomodate dirtier ammo and/or dirtier chambers (military circumstances and conditions). The 7.62x51 cartridge is safe in this longer military chamber because the base web is thicker (stronger) and thus prevents head separation. The .308 ammo does not have this thicker web and so when fired in the longer headspaced 7.62x51 chamber is more susceptible to head separation.

blaster · 04-26-2008, 08:26 PM

I love my M1a, of all military style rifles I've shot , it just feels and seems to shoot better. I even liked it a lot better than a beautiful Steyer made FAL I once had. I doubt you'll regret getting one

ma96782 · 04-30-2008, 02:47 PM

I too love my M1A....blah, blah, blah......

However......assuming that you don't already have one.......IF I was having a difficult time saving up and IF I really wanted to shoot......I'd be thinking of an M1, first. Then later, an M1A. But, that's ME.

Why?

Because of the CMP. Cheap rifle and ammo. I mean......what's the sense of a rifle, when the ammo is too expensive to shoot?

Aloha, Mark

PS........beside, the M1 is more PC......your dad will probably APPROVE too.

Rex Kramer · 04-30-2008, 03:23 PM

Plenty of folks are useing the M14 platform to whack hogs without any complaints.
I suggest a Bush, Scout or MK14 with the 18.0" barrel nestled in your choice of stocks.

Wingwiper · 05-01-2008, 10:03 AM

I bought my M1A through Springfield Armory in Ill some 20 odd years ago. It has been an excellent rifle and the first NRA High Power Match, I entered with it (Novice), I came back an EXPERT and had just missed the Master Class cut by one point. IT has shot very well and I had a problem with it about 10 years ago, I sent it back and they fixed it and charged a small amount. Very good experience with them and love my M1A.

I have had a lot of work done to it over the years and it has been very very reliable and YES! I hunt with it. You can purchase 5 Rd Mags.

sell33 · 05-01-2008, 10:10 AM

GunBroker.com guns: Federal Ordnance M1A M14 semi auto 308 (item: 98733920 ends: May-05-08 08

14 PM)

You can afford that one already

i want one too but am kinda low on money for the next 4 years lol

mym1a · 05-01-2008, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by publius

It's true that it's safe to fire 7.62x51mm ammo in a rifle headspaced for .308 Win, but the converse is not true. This is because 7.62x51 chambers headspace longer. The reason being the sloppier chamber will accomodate dirtier ammo and/or dirtier chambers (military circumstances and conditions). The 7.62x51 cartridge is safe in this longer military chamber because the base web is thicker (stronger) and thus prevents head separation. The .308 ammo does not have this thicker web and so when fired in the longer headspaced 7.62x51 chamber is more susceptible to head separation.

I hope you have the chance to chat with a gentlemen that goes by the name of sam in here???? when I had mentioned the aforementioned to him he basicly told me I didn't know what I was talking about and not to believe the data put out by Fulton armory????????? Have fun, looking forward to the debate!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! by the way I own a national match made by SA so for so good haven't put enough rounds through it yet to have any adverse affect.

publius · 05-03-2008, 11:53 PM

If Sam knows anything about the M14/7.62x51 he knows you can take that information to the bank. If you compromise and headspace at about 1.632-1.633, the latter number which is .0025 shorter than NATO 'GO' and .001 shorter than SAAMI (.308) 'NO GO', you can probably be fairly safe in shooting both cartridges. But 'Field Reject' for NATO is a long 1.6455, .0075 longer than 'Field Reject' for .308. I didn't say you would get a head separation for sure, I said there was a greater chance of it happening. Depends on one's luck. Shooting good quality ammo improves your chances.

I have two M14's, the first one was/is a heel marked Norinco I bought several years ago for $375 and have upgraded with USGI parts, bolt, trigger group, etc. The most recent is one I built from the ground up, with all new (or next to new) parts. USGI parts except the LRB receiver and the chrome-lined Krieger Criterion barrel. I have this one headspaced at about 1.633. Come to think of it, they're both headspaced at that. Sure glad I stocked up on NATO ammo when it was cheap. Think the lowest I paid some years ago was .17 a round, the most expensive about .30 a round a year or two ago.

GlockMeister · 05-04-2008, 12:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sell33

GunBroker.com guns: Federal Ordnance M1A M14 semi auto 308 (item: 98733920 ends: May-05-08 08

14 PM)

You can afford that one already

i want one too but am kinda low on money for the next 4 years lol

Well he can't afford it anymore, currently up to $903.00. Bummer.

Go to CMP. $595.00 for rack grade and I think $895.00 or $995.00 for service grade? Can't remember. But just go there and check CMP's site out. Click on sale orders.

Wingwiper · 05-13-2008, 05:48 AM

Buy it when you can buy it RIGHT and not have to settle for something less than Right.

11-28-2005, 10:17 PM	#1
FutureMarine Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: PRK Posts: 1,946	Re:thinking of getting an M1a I was thinking of getting an M1a. I currently have 750 dollars saved up, and i have a lot more coming with my yard work business blooming:gangster: . I saw a gun on this one website that was 1,200 Brand NIB(New in box), but i have to make sure my dad approves when I get the money. Hopefully he will:guitar:

11-30-2005, 12:57 PM	#2
RodneyKSig Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: In the Great City of San Antonio in The Greatest State of Texas Posts: 41	For what purpose do you intend to use the fine instrument of warfare that is the M14/M1a? I was planning to get one to do some hog extermination in South Texas considering their varmint status and possibly for competition. I am not dogging you I am just curious. I personally believe that the rifle would be wonderful to own and I aspire to do so therefore, when you get yours let me know your how it performs. __________________ If you want Peace, you must prepare for War." -The Punisher

04-26-2008, 08:26 PM	#9
blaster Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: big pine key, florida Posts: 435	I love my M1a, of all military style rifles I've shot , it just feels and seems to shoot better. I even liked it a lot better than a beautiful Steyer made FAL I once had. I doubt you'll regret getting one __________________ peace through superior firepower

04-30-2008, 02:47 PM	#10
ma96782 Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Vancouver, WA Posts: 25	I too love my M1A....blah, blah, blah...... However......assuming that you don't already have one.......IF I was having a difficult time saving up and IF I really wanted to shoot......I'd be thinking of an M1, first. Then later, an M1A. But, that's ME. Why? Because of the CMP. Cheap rifle and ammo. I mean......what's the sense of a rifle, when the ammo is too expensive to shoot? Aloha, Mark PS........beside, the M1 is more PC......your dad will probably APPROVE too. Last edited by ma96782; 04-30-2008 at 02:51 PM.

05-01-2008, 10:10 AM	#13
sell33 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,180	GunBroker.com guns: Federal Ordnance M1A M14 semi auto 308 (item: 98733920 ends: May-05-08 0814 PM) You can afford that one already i want one too but am kinda low on money for the next 4 years lol

11-30-2005, 06:36 PM	#3
FutureMarine Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: PRK Posts: 1,946	IF I get mine I am sure it will shoot great. Afterall, its only(in my opinion) the best rifle ever produced.

12-05-2005, 08:07 PM	#4
heilung Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 225	Save your money. Have the Marines get one for you. Its a great battle rifle, but sucks for hunting. I have several, but a 3006 Springfield with a nice scope is far better for targets and hunting. What do you need 10-20 rounds for anyway, unless they REALLY start crashing the border. If you are a Marine headed for battle and the Marines wont give you what you need, let me know. Maybe you can HAVE one of mine. Heilung

12-05-2005, 08:49 PM	#5
Logansdad Guest Posts: n/a	Buy what you want ! :right:

12-07-2005, 12:47 AM	#7
Gyrene Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: CA Posts: 886	The basic M1A can be a good rifle, sometimes taking you a while to get everything right, on it. I have written about them many times, and I suppose if one were to search this web site, you could find what I have written. In lieu of that, I will address some of it, for your benefit. Remember, I do not currently own any Springfield Armory (Commercial), Geneseo, IL product. Do not confuse Springfield Armory (Commercial), Geneseo, IL with the US Government Springfield Armory, Springfield, MA., they are not the same, and their products are not the same. I will shortly be buying a Springfield M1A Super Match, which is new-in-the-box, but was produced several years ago. Springfield Armory (Commercial), Geneseo, IL. advises you to not disassemble the M1A, because it may void your warranty, and it will, according to them, lose its accuracy, requiring you to resight it. They also advise you (as do most firearms manufacturers) "Do not use reloads, as that will void your warranty." All of these statements are true, however if you want the best accuracy, and reliability, most of these warranty restrictions have to be violated. When you receive the rifle, the bolt and receiver are adequately lubricated. The M1A is a machine, and a machine runs on grease which has not usually been properly placed in the M1A. Besides the Bolt and Receiver, the Operating Rod, the Operating Rod Spring, the Operating Rod Guide, the Operating Rod Spring Guide, and the bottom of the barrel just in front of the receiver, ABSOLUTELY NEED GREASE. To put that grease in the proper places, the M1A requires disassembly. A sure sign of the M1A internal parts needing lubrication, will usually manifest itself with the Magazine, and/or the Trigger Group falling out of the M1A when you fire it! It happens regularly, at our range with new M1A's! Part of this is due to the parts not being correct, and needing to be replaced by USGI parts. The Bolt, the Operating Rod, and the whole Trigger Group should be USGI, as should the Rear Sight (the T105E USGI Rear Sight is the easiest one to find). Get a N/M Rear Sight, with the "Lock Bar" for the best consistency and accuracy. The Gas Cylinder Assembly has to be run without lubrication, DO NOT PUT GREASE OR OIL into the Gas Cylinder Assembly. It is OK to wipe the Gas Cylinder parts with an oily patch, after cleaning, but then you need to dry all of the parts with a dry cloth or dry patch, leaving only a slight trace of oil on those parts to help prevent rust. Cleaning! Most of us have been taught to keep their rifles scrupulously clean, and that is not necessarily a bad thing. KEEP IN MIND, MORE RIFLES (and handguns) HAVE BEEN RUINED BY IMPROPER CLEANING, THAN HAVE BEEN RUINED BY NOT CLEANING THEM AT ALL! I recommend cleaning the parts that dust and dirt collect on, and in. I do not recommend cleaning the barrel, unless one of two conditions exist! First: If you have fired corrosive ammo in the rifle, then the Bolt, Receiver, Barrel, and Gas Cylinder Assembly absolutely need disassembly and cleaning; preferably with HOT SOAPY WATER, followed by pouring boiling hot water over the cleaned parts (this should self dry); followed by drying the parts, then a regular cleaning with solvent and oil! Second: If the rifle has lost accuracy, you may have a buildup of copper in the barrel, that is causing trouble, and it must be cleaned out. Barrel break in! It is your rifle, do what you think is best. My recommendation, is WHY? Everything that travels through the barrel wears it out. I have never broken in a barrel and have never had to replace one, some with more than 20,000 rounds through them, and they still shoot well. I have friends who religiously clean their barrels, some after every shot, and some every 50 or 100 shots, and some at the end of every competition season (or when they lose accuracy). The people who clean their barrels the most wear them out sooner, and usually end up replacing them after 500 to 1,000 rounds. Barrel break in! It is your rifle, do what you think is best. Surplus 7.62 x 51mm and .308 ammunition is drying up, partly because the Army and Marine Corps are re-employing the M14, because the M4/M16 does not do the job they need done, and they are buying the ammo up. Foreign manufactured ammo is always suspect as being CORROSIVE, with only a few manufacturers not building corrosive ammo. British (Radway Green), South African, Malaysian, Portuguese, Austrailian, 7.62 x 51mm are NON-CORROSIVE, but almost impossible to find now. 7.62 x 51mm and .308 are different, and your barrel should have the correct caliber stamped on them; I have seen them with both (not the same barrel) .308 and 7.62 x 51mm. With unfired new manufactured .308 and 7.62 x 51mm, both can be fired successfully in either .308 and 7.62 x 51mm barrels, but if the cases are previously fired in a 7.62 x 51mm chamber, they may not work in a .308 chambered rifle. If you reload, for best accuracy use 168 grain Sierra Match King HPBT bullets, and IMR 4895 powder. The amount of powder you should find in a reloading book. Get 3 reloading books, and use their guidelines as to how much powder to use (1 book could have a misprint, but 3 should have 2 very close, in quantity of powder). The most accurate commercial ammo for the M1A, is Federal Gold Medal Match, which uses the 168 grain Sierra Match King HPBT bullet (I have been told they also use 4895 powder, too). DO NOT USE ANY AMMO WITH BULLETS HEAVIER THAN 180 GRAIN, you can destroy your rifle, if you do! `

04-26-2008, 07:44 PM	#8
publius Banned Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 45	It's true that it's safe to fire 7.62x51mm ammo in a rifle headspaced for .308 Win, but the converse is not true. This is because 7.62x51 chambers headspace longer. The reason being the sloppier chamber will accomodate dirtier ammo and/or dirtier chambers (military circumstances and conditions). The 7.62x51 cartridge is safe in this longer military chamber because the base web is thicker (stronger) and thus prevents head separation. The .308 ammo does not have this thicker web and so when fired in the longer headspaced 7.62x51 chamber is more susceptible to head separation.

04-30-2008, 03:23 PM	#11
Rex Kramer Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 393	Plenty of folks are useing the M14 platform to whack hogs without any complaints. I suggest a Bush, Scout or MK14 with the 18.0" barrel nestled in your choice of stocks.

05-01-2008, 10:03 AM	#12
Wingwiper Banned Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 789	I bought my M1A through Springfield Armory in Ill some 20 odd years ago. It has been an excellent rifle and the first NRA High Power Match, I entered with it (Novice), I came back an EXPERT and had just missed the Master Class cut by one point. IT has shot very well and I had a problem with it about 10 years ago, I sent it back and they fixed it and charged a small amount. Very good experience with them and love my M1A. I have had a lot of work done to it over the years and it has been very very reliable and YES! I hunt with it. You can purchase 5 Rd Mags.

05-03-2008, 11:53 PM	#15
publius Banned Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 45	If Sam knows anything about the M14/7.62x51 he knows you can take that information to the bank. If you compromise and headspace at about 1.632-1.633, the latter number which is .0025 shorter than NATO 'GO' and .001 shorter than SAAMI (.308) 'NO GO', you can probably be fairly safe in shooting both cartridges. But 'Field Reject' for NATO is a long 1.6455, .0075 longer than 'Field Reject' for .308. I didn't say you would get a head separation for sure, I said there was a greater chance of it happening. Depends on one's luck. Shooting good quality ammo improves your chances. I have two M14's, the first one was/is a heel marked Norinco I bought several years ago for $375 and have upgraded with USGI parts, bolt, trigger group, etc. The most recent is one I built from the ground up, with all new (or next to new) parts. USGI parts except the LRB receiver and the chrome-lined Krieger Criterion barrel. I have this one headspaced at about 1.633. Come to think of it, they're both headspaced at that. Sure glad I stocked up on NATO ammo when it was cheap. Think the lowest I paid some years ago was .17 a round, the most expensive about .30 a round a year or two ago.

05-13-2008, 05:48 AM	#17
Wingwiper Banned Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 789	Buy it when you can buy it RIGHT and not have to settle for something less than Right.