reloading LR-308

sonny2u2 · 04-07-2008, 08:06 PM

Is anyone here reloading for their DPMS 308. I'm using Lee Dies and my empty, resized brass is not dropping into the chamber. Cases are R-P, once fired. I mention the "empty re-sized" brass because this problem started obviously with loaded rounds, the bolt not fully forward, and the round getting stuck in the chamber. Dropping the empties in was to rule out COL being too long. RCBS has what they call their X-Die, small base die, which may resolve the problem. (?) BTW - factory rounds drop in and or cycle without problems. Any help would be appreciated.

JOEGUN94 · 04-20-2008, 02:49 PM

actually sounds like they were not fully resized, i did the same thing, only to redo all of them. when i resize, i make 2-3 dummy rounds, to make sure they are the correct aol and to make sure they chamber , then you can pull the bullet and prime and load,

sonny2u2 · 04-26-2008, 08:02 AM

Thanks JOEGUN94, I appreciate the info. I bought the small base X-Die from RCBS and it appears to have fixed the problem. I'm liking the X-Die, it has weep holes in the die body to allow excess lube or air to escape and it full length sizes about 1/8" more of the shell toward the base than the Lee die I was using. The "set-up" on the X-Die is different than any resizing die I've used before and proper use seems to be dependent on precise lengths of your trimmed brass. But if it turns out that it does what they advertise it to do, brass stretch is kept to a minimum.

ManlyTexan · 05-03-2008, 02:49 PM

Glad to hear that you seemed to have resolved your problem. What factory ammo were you using? I used to reload using the RCBS equipment, and never had a problem with it. I sold my reloading stuff a long time ago, but I'm fixing to start up again. RCBS is at the top of the list, and I'm also looking into Hornaday.

sonny2u2 · 05-04-2008, 11:55 AM

The factory ammo that I was using was Federal 150Gr., soft point, Power-Shok. I'm still not sure my problem is resolved. I have not had time to load and fire these shells that "appear" to be fine after re-sizing with the x-die. I may have something going on with a tight chamber, but of course that's not something I can discuss with DPMS because I'm sure they will just discourage me from using re-loads. There is a gun shop near me that has a really good machinist and next time I get up that way I intend to take it to him and have him check the chamber. Off of Lee .308Win Lee dies I have loaded several hundred rounds for a friend of mine that has an Armalite AR-10 and we never had any feed problems with that, so I'm concerned.

Thanks for the input.

samuel · 05-04-2008, 12:33 PM

When you full length resize you have the die set too far down and the neck sizer is pushing the shoulder out where it meets the body.First,reread your instructions on how to set your die up.If you dont have the instructions,back the die off a little,and try again.No die will bring the case back to factory specs(which varry form co. to co.)But if the die is pushing on the shoulder,it will push it out and make it difficult or impossible to chamber. sam.

sonny2u2 · 05-04-2008, 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by samuel

When you full length resize you have the die set too far down and the neck sizer is pushing the shoulder out where it meets the body.First,reread your instructions on how to set your die up.If you dont have the instructions,back the die off a little,and try again.No die will bring the case back to factory specs(which varry form co. to co.)But if the die is pushing on the shoulder,it will push it out and make it difficult or impossible to chamber. sam.

thanks Sam. I'll try the Lee die again and back it off a touch. What you are saying makes sense because previous .308 cases, I have resized on a Dillon and Dillon tells you that during set-up to back the die off slightly afer contacting the shellplate. These cases that I am having problems with were sized on a Lee single station press, and the Lee die says to screw the die down until it contacts the raised shellplate, lower the ram, and screw the die down an additional 1/4 to 1/2 turn.

Another question. Do you have a favorite case lube?

fullMetalJack · 05-23-2008, 06:54 PM

i have lr 308 and i have one compromised battle load that ive loaded and i love it.i usually go with winchester or norma brass,-reloader 7,-federal primers,-150 grain btfmj(hornady or sierra), and the charge is 38.4 grains for a velocity of 2800. other recommended charges with reloader 7 is 37.1 /2700, 35.7/2600,34.4/2500.(this is all recommended for the same 150 grain fmjbt)

urimaginaryfrnd · 08-28-2008, 03:41 PM

Any semi auto is hard on brass and there are several stages of preparing brass that people first starting to reload fail to realize. Probably one of the most important things is to get a primer pocket uniformer and make sure the primer pockets are cut the the correct depth. There is also a flash hole uniformer and for consistent ammo results this can help. Trimming the brass to the correct length and using the chamfering tool to take the rough edges off inside and out then using a nylon brush to remove the brass dust is also helpful. While I have mostly RCBS equipment I do like the lyman electric case trimmer which has a primer pocker cleaner brush on the end of it. RCBS makes an all in one digital electric powder dispenser and scale which is a true treasure as it will make reloading less tedious and allow you to weigh every powder charge which is important with a rifle and less important with handgun ammo as the slight variation in charge becomes more important as distance increases. The best reloads are of course made with virgin brass however even virgin brass often comes bent, the wrong length, the primer pocket not deep enough and the flash hole not cut or punched perfectly, and needing chamfering in general requiring as much work as previously fired brass. I have friends who just love the Dillon progressive loader and I have heard the Horniday progressive is eaven faster but I still believe that by taking the brass through each stage you wind up with better more consistent ammo. It all depends on how much you shoot and what cartridge. Straight wall cartridges then to be the least complicated to reload with 38/.357 and .44 mag being the least complicated. I really wish they could make carbide dies for the rifle cartridges - lube is a pain.

Velocitywhore · 08-29-2008, 07:26 AM

I found remington bras just plain sucks after about two firings in my LR 308. I just threw out about 150 pieces because the primer pockets were over sized. The primers would almost fall right out. I stick with Winchester from now on. Now to highjack the thread some what is your LR getting for accuracy. This is what mine will do with a fixed rest.It does better than I do.

ALR · 09-14-2008, 07:53 PM

Hi, just aquired a LR308B and...
(1) Was wondering if there is a powder that burns clean enough to minimize fouling in the action? I do plan on cleaning after each session, but could be some long sessions.
(2) When breaking in barrell, do you just use 1 brushstroke between rounds followed by dry patch or is that not enough?
Thanks for the info in advance.............ALR

Tony T-65 · 10-10-2008, 08:15 PM

New LR308B, barrell fouled badly during break in rounds. Using Winchester 180 gr factory loads, brushed after every round first 25 rounds and follow with dry swab, shoots really accurate, only tried 25 yds, many rounds in same hole,120 rounds,brush after each 10 shot salvo, wondering about fouling, been brushing for week.What is good cleaning solvent to use?

04-07-2008, 08:06 PM	#1
sonny2u2 Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Arkansas Posts: 54	reloading LR-308 Is anyone here reloading for their DPMS 308. I'm using Lee Dies and my empty, resized brass is not dropping into the chamber. Cases are R-P, once fired. I mention the "empty re-sized" brass because this problem started obviously with loaded rounds, the bolt not fully forward, and the round getting stuck in the chamber. Dropping the empties in was to rule out COL being too long. RCBS has what they call their X-Die, small base die, which may resolve the problem. (?) BTW - factory rounds drop in and or cycle without problems. Any help would be appreciated.

05-23-2008, 06:54 PM	#8
fullMetalJack Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Colorado Posts: 119	i have lr 308 and i have one compromised battle load that ive loaded and i love it.i usually go with winchester or norma brass,-reloader 7,-federal primers,-150 grain btfmj(hornady or sierra), and the charge is 38.4 grains for a velocity of 2800. other recommended charges with reloader 7 is 37.1 /2700, 35.7/2600,34.4/2500.(this is all recommended for the same 150 grain fmjbt) __________________ -What we do in life echoes in eternity...

09-14-2008, 07:53 PM	#11
ALR Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Eastern MO Posts: 184	Hi, just aquired a LR308B and... (1) Was wondering if there is a powder that burns clean enough to minimize fouling in the action? I do plan on cleaning after each session, but could be some long sessions. (2) When breaking in barrell, do you just use 1 brushstroke between rounds followed by dry patch or is that not enough? Thanks for the info in advance.............ALR __________________ Hold on pardner,good things are coming to you! <--- Gittin to the gittin place.

04-20-2008, 02:49 PM	#2
JOEGUN94 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: MARSHALL Posts: 160	actually sounds like they were not fully resized, i did the same thing, only to redo all of them. when i resize, i make 2-3 dummy rounds, to make sure they are the correct aol and to make sure they chamber , then you can pull the bullet and prime and load,

04-26-2008, 08:02 AM	#3
sonny2u2 Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Arkansas Posts: 54	Thanks JOEGUN94, I appreciate the info. I bought the small base X-Die from RCBS and it appears to have fixed the problem. I'm liking the X-Die, it has weep holes in the die body to allow excess lube or air to escape and it full length sizes about 1/8" more of the shell toward the base than the Lee die I was using. The "set-up" on the X-Die is different than any resizing die I've used before and proper use seems to be dependent on precise lengths of your trimmed brass. But if it turns out that it does what they advertise it to do, brass stretch is kept to a minimum.

05-03-2008, 02:49 PM	#4
ManlyTexan Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: West Texas Near the Home of The B1B Bomber. Posts: 16	Glad to hear that you seemed to have resolved your problem. What factory ammo were you using? I used to reload using the RCBS equipment, and never had a problem with it. I sold my reloading stuff a long time ago, but I'm fixing to start up again. RCBS is at the top of the list, and I'm also looking into Hornaday.

05-04-2008, 11:55 AM	#5
sonny2u2 Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Arkansas Posts: 54	The factory ammo that I was using was Federal 150Gr., soft point, Power-Shok. I'm still not sure my problem is resolved. I have not had time to load and fire these shells that "appear" to be fine after re-sizing with the x-die. I may have something going on with a tight chamber, but of course that's not something I can discuss with DPMS because I'm sure they will just discourage me from using re-loads. There is a gun shop near me that has a really good machinist and next time I get up that way I intend to take it to him and have him check the chamber. Off of Lee .308Win Lee dies I have loaded several hundred rounds for a friend of mine that has an Armalite AR-10 and we never had any feed problems with that, so I'm concerned. Thanks for the input.

05-04-2008, 12:33 PM	#6
samuel Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 5,087	When you full length resize you have the die set too far down and the neck sizer is pushing the shoulder out where it meets the body.First,reread your instructions on how to set your die up.If you dont have the instructions,back the die off a little,and try again.No die will bring the case back to factory specs(which varry form co. to co.)But if the die is pushing on the shoulder,it will push it out and make it difficult or impossible to chamber. sam.

08-28-2008, 03:41 PM	#9
urimaginaryfrnd Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 8	Any semi auto is hard on brass and there are several stages of preparing brass that people first starting to reload fail to realize. Probably one of the most important things is to get a primer pocket uniformer and make sure the primer pockets are cut the the correct depth. There is also a flash hole uniformer and for consistent ammo results this can help. Trimming the brass to the correct length and using the chamfering tool to take the rough edges off inside and out then using a nylon brush to remove the brass dust is also helpful. While I have mostly RCBS equipment I do like the lyman electric case trimmer which has a primer pocker cleaner brush on the end of it. RCBS makes an all in one digital electric powder dispenser and scale which is a true treasure as it will make reloading less tedious and allow you to weigh every powder charge which is important with a rifle and less important with handgun ammo as the slight variation in charge becomes more important as distance increases. The best reloads are of course made with virgin brass however even virgin brass often comes bent, the wrong length, the primer pocket not deep enough and the flash hole not cut or punched perfectly, and needing chamfering in general requiring as much work as previously fired brass. I have friends who just love the Dillon progressive loader and I have heard the Horniday progressive is eaven faster but I still believe that by taking the brass through each stage you wind up with better more consistent ammo. It all depends on how much you shoot and what cartridge. Straight wall cartridges then to be the least complicated to reload with 38/.357 and .44 mag being the least complicated. I really wish they could make carbide dies for the rifle cartridges - lube is a pain.

08-29-2008, 07:26 AM	#10
Velocitywhore Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 6	I found remington bras just plain sucks after about two firings in my LR 308. I just threw out about 150 pieces because the primer pockets were over sized. The primers would almost fall right out. I stick with Winchester from now on. Now to highjack the thread some what is your LR getting for accuracy. This is what mine will do with a fixed rest.It does better than I do.

10-10-2008, 08:15 PM	#12
Tony T-65 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2008 Posts: 1	New LR308B, barrell fouled badly during break in rounds. Using Winchester 180 gr factory loads, brushed after every round first 25 rounds and follow with dry swab, shoots really accurate, only tried 25 yds, many rounds in same hole,120 rounds,brush after each 10 shot salvo, wondering about fouling, been brushing for week.What is good cleaning solvent to use?