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| Senior Member | Need tips on polishing up old gun metal
So I have been refinishing my Enfield, and am pretty happy with the stock. Now on to the metal. I am removing the bluing and want to get the metal shiny like some parts already are from normal wear. There is some slight pitting here and there, no rust...but the metal has a overall dingy look, especially the nose-cap piece and trigger guard. I am wondering if I use my dremmel tool and some compound if that'll do the trick. Any thoughts?
__________________ Blaming guns for violent acts is like blaming the keyboard for your poor spelling. |
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| | #2 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,313
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removing the original surface or drilling holes in fire arms generaly devalues the firearm you might want to take that into consideration ?????
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| | #3 |
| Senior Member |
Well, I'm definitely not drilling any holes, but as far as value, I could care less what it's value is...it's valuable to me, and I won't be selling it. I want to modify the finish to my personal taste. Thank you for the concern, but what I am really looking for are a few tips on how I might polish the metal to a nice shine once I finish getting all the blue off.
__________________ Blaming guns for violent acts is like blaming the keyboard for your poor spelling. |
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| | #4 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,313
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by all means polish on!!!!!!!!!!
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| | #5 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: New York
Posts: 905
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I've used a dremel with a bufing pad and it works great.If you don't mind a little elbow grease and TIME, use 1200 grit paper or finer to polish the metal bits. I think I have some 2000 grit paper I used on the bolt to polish my old Stevens.
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| | #6 |
| Military Rifle Collector ![]() |
I would use blue remover first or vinegar. That will take off your old blue. Then you have less to polish. You can get jewelers rouge to polish with for a dremel.
__________________ Let's light this fuse and see what happens! |
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| | #8 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: A one horse town in E.Kansas.
Posts: 305
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Before you start in with the Dremel give a hand polish with 360 wet/dry and some WD40 a try. If you can find a cheap soft rubber sanding block, cut some peices 2"x1"x1/4" thick to wrap the wet/dry around. You can use this on the rounded surfaces by bending it partialy around the part. For the flat surfaces cut a peice of scrap wood to slightly larger dimentions and sand the face of it dead flat. To do that simply hold a 1/4 sheet of sand paper down on something you know to be flat and push the block back and forth till smooth. If the blue comes off easily enough move up to a finer grade of wet/dry until you get the shine you desire Chances are you may wind up with ripples in the metal useing a Dremel. You didn't mention if you intend to blue it yourself or have a shop hot blue it for you. If you need, I can give you the contact info to a fellow who does outstanding work at a reasonable price.
__________________ Yes, I Ride A Motorcycle. I Have To, It's Cheaper Than A Shrink. |
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| | #9 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: living in Alabama now
Posts: 239
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If you have a bench grinder, you can replace the grinding wheel with a polishing wheel. Use polishing compound and you will get that "polished chrome" look to it. Polishing compound can be found and any auto parts store (not car polish....polishing compound). I use this method after removing most of the blue with vinagar. then I wash with vinagar and rinse thouroughly, dry with clean towels and it is ready for the blueing tank. On the bolt, after polishing and washing, I put the bolt in hot oil (approx 150 degrees and let cool in the oil) |
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