Re-bluing my Mauser?

[Iron_Colonel]

I posted this in the gunsmithing area. I thought I might throw it up here see if anyone had any suggestions, or experiences that might help me out a little. Was hoping to maximize my intake of knowledge from everyone else.
I was thinking about re-bluing my Turk Mauser for the heck of it. Give me some experience with some bluing. The numbers don't match, and its just kinda looking old. I have a Birchwood Casey kit that I already did a pistol with that was in sad shape. It was my first one, and it didn't look as nice as the pic on the box... Just wondering if there are any good tricks of the trade or something that a newbie might be interested in. How is a good way to get a nice deep and shiny look on it.

http://www.gunandgame.com/forums/mau...auser-m38.html (Turkish Mauser M38???)

Pics to the post I made after I bought it. The old original bluing on it is faded.
Also as I think it might be a good idea to poll the audience, what parts would make it accurate to original specs if I were to blue them or not. For example, on the bolt, the sights, etc...Just looking for input. Thanks.

[lefty o]

there is no good cold blue.

[Capt'n Mil Coll]

Have to agree with Lefty. If you want a beautiful wall hanger with deep blue blueing have it professionaly done.

If you just want to do it to do it, here is what you have to do. Disassemble the Rifle completely. If you can get the parts bead blasted then do that now. Polish each part. Polish each part again. Then polish them again. Using finer grit each time. Dont polish the markings off. Get it as polished as you want it to be or you just are too tired to polish more.

Use blue remover to get the metal to as bare as possible. Get some latex gloves at the local car parts store. Put the latex gloves on each time you will be handleing these parts. Wash each part in warm water and a cleaner degreaser. I recomend simple green. Feel the metal and see if all the oil feels gone. Now wash again to get your finger oil off if you touched it bare handed at all. Dont touch the metal with bare hands again until your done. This is the biggest mistake most people make.

Dry the metal for a day or two. A hair dryer is good too. Some say in an oven but I never liked that idea.

Then warm the metal slightly and blue. Not hot just warm. Try to keep the blue as even as possilble. Like using stain on wood. Long strokes. If you want to make a gun look antique you can heat the blue with a propane torch and it will look old and will brown the blue. Just dont use a lot of heat. Just a little.

I have to admit in my experience how well you polish it in the beginning directly reflects how well it looks in the end.

[Big Dog]

I have used the Birchwood-Casey blueing kit on a couple .22 rifles and an old Mosin - none turned out good. It is uneven, and some metal parts just don't take it - too much chromium in the steel, methinks...?
It is also not very durable - rubs or scratches easily.
Hot blueing is really the only way it'll look good.

[jimkim]

Brownell's oxpho blue is better. I like the cream better. It still isn't as good as dropping it in the tank, but I would use it before the birchwood-casey. OXPHO-BLUE® at Brownells~

[sc928porsche]

Hot blue in blueing salts is best. Short of that, be sure to polish the metal completely (First rubbing compound on buffer wheel, then polishing compound on a new pad on buffing wheel. Use vinigar to clean metal, then rinse thoroughly (Vinigar will help remove any small traces of old blueing). Wash again with amonia and water mix (about 1/4 ammonia). Rinse thouroughly and wipe dry with clean towels. Rinse again with Brake Kleen. Apply Super 44 gunblue as directed and rinse off and dry. If needed, apply more coats untill you reach the desired color. Be sure to rinse and dry between each application. Apply gun oil and keep an eye on it. As soon as the oil is absorbed apply another coat. It will take a few days of applying oil to fully set the blueing. This is no means as good as a hot blue, but it will suffice. Super 44 can be obtained through Brownells.

[Capt'n Mil Coll]

Good info on bluein.

[SwedeSteve]

Yep, thanks for the info guys!

[Powderman]

A couple of points...

First, YOU can do a professional-grade cold blue job. You MUST take a lot of care when doing it, though--but you can get some really good results.

I don't really have the time right now, but I will post--today--a guide to cold bluing that will have your guns looking REALLY nice! (Plus, the blue is DURABLE!) I will also post a secret--the one single thing that the pros do to even and blend the finish that will set your job apart from the masses. Stay tuned!

[Dookiebutt]

Originally Posted by jimkim

Brownell's oxpho blue is better. I like the cream better. It still isn't as good as dropping it in the tank, but I would use it before the birchwood-casey. OXPHO-BLUE® at Brownells~

+1 for OXPHO.

[Powderman]

There are some common misconceptions about bluing. First, bluing--while it does offer some protection against corrosion--is actually RUST, in itself. It is simply controlled rusting.

Second and most importantly, there are some folks who believe that a bluing job can be slapped on that will make Old Betsy look like a Colt Python's Royal Blue in its prime.

Taint so, folks.

There ARE some special recipes and methods for bluing. Carbonia blue, for instance, is the old mainstay of the Colt factory, and gave a rich, deep blue. It is (IMHO) the most beautiful of bluing finishes. It also involved the uses of large amounts of cyanide.

The most important part, by far, of a bluing job is the POLISHING and metal prep. The bluing simply reflects what is underneath.

So, to achieve that eye-popping blue with a "cold" blue, here is how we do it...

1. DISASSEMBLY

COMPLETELY disassemble the firearm you are working on. You do NOT want any of the bluing solution, or trapped moisture, in the springs or caught on pins. You will have a rust nightmare if you do.

Remove ALL pins, springs, etc, and lay them aside. If you are not familiar with the total disassembly of your firearm, it would be wise to acquire some printed reference material for it.

2. COMPLETE CLEANING

Now that you have disassembled the arm, clean--like you never have cleaned before. Make liberal use of Hoppe's and toothbrushes; clean all of the crud out. Work diligently at removing all carbon/lead fouling. Once you have done this, you are ready to begin the actual metal prep.

3. METAL/SURFACE PREP

Look over the arm with a careful eye. Note any pits, deep scratches, or blemishes; remove these carefully with VERY fine grit (400/600) sandpaper. Do NOT try to polish out or remove deep pits. Surface rust can be removed in the same way.

4. POLISHING

Now we get to the meat of the matter. You will need the following for a good polish...
a. Stitched muslin wheels--one for each grit used.
b. Felt wheels for high bright polished surfaces.
c. A wheel rake, to even and true the wheels before use.

I recommend the 6 inch wheels--they are easy to work with, unless you have the capability to use the 8 inch wheels.

You will also need polish--I use and recommend the Polish-O-Ray polishes from Brownell's; these will take the work to an even satin finish. For that bright, mirror blue, get the 555 polish series.

Now--on to the polishing!

First, select a muslin wheel and mount it. Make sure that you have the proper arbor and parts to hold the wheel straight and true. Run the wheel at full speed, and make sure it is aligned properly. Now, unseal a tube of polish, and apply it to the wheel. Don't hog it onto the wheel, let the wheel load slowly. A good sign is when all of the polish actually stays on the wheel--and doesn't fly off all over the place.

A word about polish selection. You will notice that the polish comes in different grits--from 140 to the 555 White. 140 grit is best used for heavy rust removal. It WILL cut metal quickly, round corners, dish out screw holes, and can REALLY alter a piece quickly. For surfaces with very minor or no flaws, go with the 400 or even 500 polish to start.

Here is the first secret of good metal polishing--let the wheel do the work. A light touch is all that's needed. You should use little or no pressure; just enough to hold the work against the wheel.

Make sure you are wearing heavy work gloves while doing this polishing. This will help you to hold onto the work, and will protect your hands when the turning wheel snatches your hands against the wheel or arbor. And, trust me--it's not a question of IF it will happen, but WHEN.

Second tip of good polishing--change the angle of the workpiece. For instance, if you are polishing straight on for the first few passes, then rotate the work at a 45 degree angle, and polish again.

After you go over the entire piece with one polish, change wheels and use a finer grit.

Remember well: the quality of your finished bluing job depends entirely on the time you spend on polishing and prepping the metal. Take your time, and do a good job--you will see the difference as you progress.

The type of finish desired depends on where you stop in the polishing process. If you want a good matte finish, do the flaw removal, and get the outer surfaces bead blasted.

For a mirror finish, go all the way through to the 555 White. When you get to 555 Gray, switch to the soft felt wheel. Remember, let the wheel do the work for you.

More a bit later...