[Powderman]

There are some common misconceptions about bluing. First, bluing--while it does offer some protection against corrosion--is actually RUST, in itself. It is simply controlled rusting.

Second and most importantly, there are some folks who believe that a bluing job can be slapped on that will make Old Betsy look like a Colt Python's Royal Blue in its prime.

Taint so, folks.

There ARE some special recipes and methods for bluing. Carbonia blue, for instance, is the old mainstay of the Colt factory, and gave a rich, deep blue. It is (IMHO) the most beautiful of bluing finishes. It also involved the uses of large amounts of cyanide.

The most important part, by far, of a bluing job is the POLISHING and metal prep. The bluing simply reflects what is underneath.

So, to achieve that eye-popping blue with a "cold" blue, here is how we do it...

1. DISASSEMBLY

COMPLETELY disassemble the firearm you are working on. You do NOT want any of the bluing solution, or trapped moisture, in the springs or caught on pins. You will have a rust nightmare if you do.

Remove ALL pins, springs, etc, and lay them aside. If you are not familiar with the total disassembly of your firearm, it would be wise to acquire some printed reference material for it.

2. COMPLETE CLEANING

Now that you have disassembled the arm, clean--like you never have cleaned before. Make liberal use of Hoppe's and toothbrushes; clean all of the crud out. Work diligently at removing all carbon/lead fouling. Once you have done this, you are ready to begin the actual metal prep.

3. METAL/SURFACE PREP

Look over the arm with a careful eye. Note any pits, deep scratches, or blemishes; remove these carefully with VERY fine grit (400/600) sandpaper. Do NOT try to polish out or remove deep pits. Surface rust can be removed in the same way.

4. POLISHING

Now we get to the meat of the matter. You will need the following for a good polish...
a. Stitched muslin wheels--one for each grit used.
b. Felt wheels for high bright polished surfaces.
c. A wheel rake, to even and true the wheels before use.

I recommend the 6 inch wheels--they are easy to work with, unless you have the capability to use the 8 inch wheels.

You will also need polish--I use and recommend the Polish-O-Ray polishes from Brownell's; these will take the work to an even satin finish. For that bright, mirror blue, get the 555 polish series.

Now--on to the polishing!

First, select a muslin wheel and mount it. Make sure that you have the proper arbor and parts to hold the wheel straight and true. Run the wheel at full speed, and make sure it is aligned properly. Now, unseal a tube of polish, and apply it to the wheel. Don't hog it onto the wheel, let the wheel load slowly. A good sign is when all of the polish actually stays on the wheel--and doesn't fly off all over the place.

A word about polish selection. You will notice that the polish comes in different grits--from 140 to the 555 White. 140 grit is best used for heavy rust removal. It WILL cut metal quickly, round corners, dish out screw holes, and can REALLY alter a piece quickly. For surfaces with very minor or no flaws, go with the 400 or even 500 polish to start.

Here is the first secret of good metal polishing--let the wheel do the work. A light touch is all that's needed. You should use little or no pressure; just enough to hold the work against the wheel.

Make sure you are wearing heavy work gloves while doing this polishing. This will help you to hold onto the work, and will protect your hands when the turning wheel snatches your hands against the wheel or arbor. And, trust me--it's not a question of IF it will happen, but WHEN.

Second tip of good polishing--change the angle of the workpiece. For instance, if you are polishing straight on for the first few passes, then rotate the work at a 45 degree angle, and polish again.

After you go over the entire piece with one polish, change wheels and use a finer grit.

Remember well: the quality of your finished bluing job depends entirely on the time you spend on polishing and prepping the metal. Take your time, and do a good job--you will see the difference as you progress.

The type of finish desired depends on where you stop in the polishing process. If you want a good matte finish, do the flaw removal, and get the outer surfaces bead blasted.

For a mirror finish, go all the way through to the 555 White. When you get to 555 Gray, switch to the soft felt wheel. Remember, let the wheel do the work for you.

More a bit later...