| | #1 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Indianapolis, IN. "The city where nothing happens."
Posts: 1,021
Trader Rating: (1) | Wasr 10 Finishing Porn Well I took my wasr 10 out to the range in the 30 degree rain with my shooting buddy and put some rounds through it (um 250 rounds) and had no failures (of course ), any ways we wern't trying to be accurate just trying to have fun in the fricken cold rain. Towards the end of the of the day the range was completely empty so we put it in the lead sled and fired it as fast as we could, the smoke was horrible but it was quite a bit of fun. I have no targets because they were basically watered down mush.Anyways on to the original post: well I finished the wasr 10 and it looks way better than a light non finished stock. on to the porn Before ![]() After ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Oh and did I mention it was FRICKEN cold.
__________________ "All rifles need a sharp pointy object on the end!" http://s96.photobucket.com/albums/l195/zephri/ |
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| | #2 |
| Senior Member | looks nice but i hate to tell you this but. an ak47 would look good if it was covered with mud to me it don't matter none .but i like that finish color it looks like dark walnut thats what i put on mine. |
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| | #5 |
| Senior Member | i find my wasr10 is better than my sar1. my sar1 has a little play in the mag well and the wasr10 is nice and tite.. the sar1 rattles and the wasr10 doesn't.they bothe spit bullets like theres no tommorow but they are built or put together by to diferent people. good job on the stock work. |
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| | #7 |
| Senior Member ![]() | If Formbys still makes and you can find it There Tongue oil varnish is the best finish I've found for wood stocks. It is really thin stuff you rub in with your hands, you want have a thick top coat on your wood. I don't remember the gauge of steel wool you use but when you apply stain it will raise the grain in woods and the steel wool will remove it leaveing your stocks slicker than a town dog....And when you apply the tongue oil varnish go over it with steel wool because it will level the vaninsh to where it looks like a factory finish. And reapply. I'm sure a lot of you knew that already but some my not have. TooDools...A.H Last edited by ArkansasHunter; 11-14-2007 at 10:33 AM. |
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| | #8 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Indianapolis, IN. "The city where nothing happens."
Posts: 1,021
Trader Rating: (1) | Here's what I used on my stock, also used it on one of my mosins. ![]() I sanded the bare stock with 600 grit sandpaper then applied the stain with a ripped t-shirt then let it dry, after it dried I used 0000 steel wool to smooth out the wood, then applied the polyurethane with another piece of t-shirt and put like 2 to 3 coats on it. after that I smoothed the polyurethane with 0000 steel wool.
__________________ "All rifles need a sharp pointy object on the end!" http://s96.photobucket.com/albums/l195/zephri/ Last edited by Zephri; 11-14-2007 at 11:29 AM. |
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| | #10 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Indianapolis, IN. "The city where nothing happens."
Posts: 1,021
Trader Rating: (1) | Yeah, too much gloss makes alot of people look at the clear coat rather than the wood below it. Oh and excuses are fun. ![]()
__________________ "All rifles need a sharp pointy object on the end!" http://s96.photobucket.com/albums/l195/zephri/ |
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| | #11 |
| Senior Member | Zephri, you will probably have cause to regret the use of Minwax products on a stock...I'm not loving the effect that age has on their standard poly clearcoats. Far better to use a Marine Grade poly especially if you have your weapons outside/in the weather a lot. There's also a reason old furniture refinishers don't use Minwax clearcoats...talk to a few of your local woodworkers/refinishing guys to find out why |
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| | #12 |
| Senior Member ![]() | Gas is getting expensive...please save us a trip to a furniture refinishing person and help us with the answer for not using Minwax clear coats. Thanks...
__________________ "Happiness is not the absence of conflict, but the ability to cope with it." -Unknown |
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| | #14 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Indianapolis, IN. "The city where nothing happens."
Posts: 1,021
Trader Rating: (1) | Just so you know my wasr looks like this now.... hehe no wood to worry about. ![]() btw: I'm not a person to care how the finish on my gun looks as long as the metal parts work.
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| | #16 |
| Senior Member | Boiled Linseed oil and various sandpaper grains with some clear enamel to seal it in. This was before I finished the stock, but the handguards are done in this pick. I got the stock to look even better than the handguards. The wood that it came with was a diamond in the rough. ![]()
__________________ Paramedic sks forever |
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| | #17 |
| Banned | I use 1 part BLO + 1 part gloss spar varnish + 1/3 part naptha. Mix together and apply with a rag or dip and wipe off excess. Repeat 3 to 4 times buffing inbetween and allowing to dry 24 to 36 hours between each. Or- Use Danish Oil. Easy to use and mistake proof. Apply by rag and buff, three coats. It's better to use these types of finishes as repairs are easy as you will not have to remove a top coat. Also it lets the wood breath rather than smuthering it in a coat of poly. Irish |
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| | #18 |
| Registered User | Disassembly question Zephri, How did you get the rear portion of the stock off your rifle? I bought one of the cheap thumbhole versions (regrets...regrets) and would like to change things up a bit, but can't seem to get the darned wood to fall out. |
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| | #19 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Indianapolis, IN. "The city where nothing happens."
Posts: 1,021
Trader Rating: (1) | You should make a new thread regarding the thumb hole stock as I do not know how there attached, and wouldn't want to give you any advice that could possibly damage your gun through lack of knowledge on my part.
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