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Old 11-13-2007, 12:45 PM   #1
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Wasr 10 Finishing Porn

Well I took my wasr 10 out to the range in the 30 degree rain with my shooting buddy and put some rounds through it (um 250 rounds) and had no failures (of course), any ways we wern't trying to be accurate just trying to have fun in the fricken cold rain. Towards the end of the of the day the range was completely empty so we put it in the lead sled and fired it as fast as we could, the smoke was horrible but it was quite a bit of fun. I have no targets because they were basically watered down mush.

Anyways on to the original post:

well I finished the wasr 10 and it looks way better than a light non finished stock. on to the porn

Before


After





Oh and did I mention it was FRICKEN cold.
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Old 11-13-2007, 01:08 PM   #2
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looks nice but i hate to tell you this but. an ak47 would look good if it was covered with mud to me it don't matter none .but i like that finish color it looks like dark walnut thats what i put on mine.
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Old 11-13-2007, 01:10 PM   #3
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man that looks awesome! that is exactly the color of the stock that i would want. what did you use?
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Old 11-13-2007, 01:35 PM   #4
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A WASR-10 can look 20 times better with a little stock work. Looks good.
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Old 11-13-2007, 02:35 PM   #5
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i find my wasr10 is better than my sar1. my sar1 has a little play in the mag well and the wasr10 is nice and tite.. the sar1 rattles and the wasr10 doesn't.they bothe spit bullets like theres no tommorow but they are built or put together by to diferent people. good job on the stock work.
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Old 11-14-2007, 09:41 AM   #6
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I think I might try that finish on mine... looks good.
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Old 11-14-2007, 10:30 AM   #7
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If Formbys still makes and you can find it There Tongue oil varnish is the best finish I've found for wood stocks.
It is really thin stuff you rub in with your hands, you want have a thick top coat on your wood.
I don't remember the gauge of steel wool you use but when you apply stain it will raise the grain in woods and the steel wool will remove it leaveing your stocks slicker than a town dog....And when you apply the tongue oil varnish go over it with steel wool because it will level the vaninsh to where it looks like a factory finish. And reapply.
I'm sure a lot of you knew that already but some my not have. TooDools...A.H

Last edited by ArkansasHunter; 11-14-2007 at 10:33 AM.
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Old 11-14-2007, 11:25 AM   #8
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Here's what I used on my stock, also used it on one of my mosins.

I sanded the bare stock with 600 grit sandpaper then applied the stain with a ripped t-shirt then let it dry, after it dried I used 0000 steel wool to smooth out the wood, then applied the polyurethane with another piece of t-shirt and put like 2 to 3 coats on it. after that I smoothed the polyurethane with 0000 steel wool.
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Last edited by Zephri; 11-14-2007 at 11:29 AM.
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Old 11-14-2007, 01:13 PM   #9
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now i have to go out and buy another ak47 just to try you color stain and method. like they say another exscuse.but your did come out good not to much shine but just enough.
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Old 11-14-2007, 02:18 PM   #10
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Yeah, too much gloss makes alot of people look at the clear coat rather than the wood below it.

Oh and excuses are fun.
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Old 06-08-2008, 06:57 PM   #11
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Zephri, you will probably have cause to regret the use of Minwax products on a stock...I'm not loving the effect that age has on their standard poly clearcoats. Far better to use a Marine Grade poly especially if you have your weapons outside/in the weather a lot.
There's also a reason old furniture refinishers don't use Minwax clearcoats...talk to a few of your local woodworkers/refinishing guys to find out why
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Old 06-08-2008, 07:01 PM   #12
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Gas is getting expensive...please save us a trip to a furniture refinishing person and help us with the answer for not using Minwax clear coats. Thanks...
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Old 06-08-2008, 08:13 PM   #13
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yea i use minwax and i never had any problems with it. so what gives on the minwax??
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Old 06-08-2008, 09:42 PM   #14
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Just so you know my wasr looks like this now.... hehe no wood to worry about.


btw: I'm not a person to care how the finish on my gun looks as long as the metal parts work.
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Old 06-09-2008, 09:20 AM   #15
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Great job on the stock there Zeph !! Really turned out perty !!
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Old 06-09-2008, 09:27 AM   #16
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Boiled Linseed oil and various sandpaper grains with some clear enamel to seal it in. This was before I finished the stock, but the handguards are done in this pick. I got the stock to look even better than the handguards. The wood that it came with was a diamond in the rough.



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Old 06-09-2008, 11:48 PM   #17
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I use 1 part BLO + 1 part gloss spar varnish + 1/3 part naptha. Mix together and apply with a rag or dip and wipe off excess. Repeat 3 to 4 times buffing inbetween and allowing to dry 24 to 36 hours between each.

Or-

Use Danish Oil. Easy to use and mistake proof. Apply by rag and buff, three coats.

It's better to use these types of finishes as repairs are easy as you will not have to remove a top coat. Also it lets the wood breath rather than smuthering it in a coat of poly.

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Old 07-17-2008, 06:17 PM   #18
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Disassembly question

Zephri,

How did you get the rear portion of the stock off your rifle? I bought one of the cheap thumbhole versions (regrets...regrets) and would like to change things up a bit, but can't seem to get the darned wood to fall out.
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Old 07-17-2008, 07:22 PM   #19
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You should make a new thread regarding the thumb hole stock as I do not know how there attached, and wouldn't want to give you any advice that could possibly damage your gun through lack of knowledge on my part.
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