"Super Lube" brand synthetic grease

[Stew Man Fu]

Is "Super Lube" synthetic grease able to be used in weapons applications or will it not stand up to the temperature. Their web page says good at temps between -45 F to +500 F.

[TACAV]

I dont see why not I use high temp wheel bearing grease on rifles and pistols, it works very well. Specifically lithium wheel bearing grease not the "white lithium" which comes in a can.

For those other than Stew here,

Unlike oil grease stays where you put it and wont run and it keeps the parts lubed even when dirty. A gun is just another machine just like a car. You dont need "special gun oil/ lubes" for your guns all the stuff is made from the same ingredients and with the same process. its also a lot cheaper.

Brake cleaner does the same stuff as "gun scrubber" for a fraction of the price.

Its all the same stuff with a different name slapped on it.

[Big Tool]

I was having issues with a beretta 92 jamming. I greased the slide rails with some lithium and haven't had a problems since.

Not to mention the action is smooth as butter. Literally...

[deadzero]

just watch what grease your planning on using. if you can find its drip point temperature it will give you a good idea, for comparison, on how it will work for a given situation. one of the most demanding I know of is using a lube on the barrel and front bushing of a 1911. if shooting competition, things get really hot in a 60- 80 shot string. I've seen some good lubes fail (burn away) and some that suprised me.
let us know on the Super Lube. I have some but never tested it yet. one that has also suprised me was Quantum Hot Sauce, both the oil and grease. generally for use on fishing reels, it's a synthetic that as worked exceptionally well on the firearms.

[deadzero]

Originally Posted by Stew Man Fu

Is "Super Lube" synthetic grease able to be used in weapons applications or will it not stand up to the temperature. Their web page says good at temps between -45 F to +500 F.

its drip point is at 500 degrees, give it a try.

[jmp8927]

I just use dry graphite. Works like a charm and doesn't ever pick up debris from firing.

[Cyrano]

My Mosins get silicone grease like you'd use for grease fittings in a truck and they are okay with it year around. Hereabouts, temperatures can go to 100 degrees F. in summer and hit -10 degrees F. in winter. The same grease works fine in my Llama Model IX-A or Ruger Mark I in summer, but will cause FTE/FTL in winter. I think some of the "to grease or not to grease" question has to do as much with tolerances as with the lube itself. Fortunately, we can adjust our lubes to meet existing conditions.

But I do wonder how much of a difference it makes to guns with close tolerances. I'd expect it to be significant.

[huudoo]

any synthetic grease shoulld be fine , if used lightly

i use singer sewing machine lube

[Stew Man Fu]

Originally Posted by huudoo

any synthetic grease shoulld be fine , if used lightly

i use singer sewing machine lube

I was told just to use it on the trigger group, oil everything else. Correct???

We got this "Super Lube" sent to us by mistake by mail. Had my company name on it but I didn't order it and the post office doesn't have a return record where it came from (The stick on label was torn off)

I read good for "hunting" on the label, figured why not ask the guys who seem to know. Plus I have like 13 tubes of the stuff so I figure why not get some use out of it. My staff wanted to know because all of the shooters here have laid claim if we can use it for guns.

[huudoo]

trigger group should be fine, just a light coat like drop on finger smear it on
wipe off the rest ..... i really have not used and paste lube
i use sewing machine oil.... CLP works fine also...........

not really sure if i would use it on the bolt......

check ar15.com under maintenance

Maintenance & Cleaning - AR15.COM


http://www.biggerhammer.net/manuals/

http://www.bushmaster.com/electronic...l/opmanual.pdf



2-11. LUBRICATION GENERAL.
a. Whenever the term "cleaner, lubricant, and preservative (CLP)" or the words "lubricant", "lube", "LSA", or "LAW" are
cited In this TM, they are to be interpreted to mean CLP (Item 9, app D), weapons lubricating oil (LSA) (Item 23, app D), or
weapons lubricating oil (LAW) (Item 22, app D) can be utilized as applicable The following constraints must be adhered to:
b. Under all but the coldest arctic conditions, LSA or CLP are the lubricants to use on the rifle. Either may be used at
100F (230C) and above. However, do not use both on the same rifle at the same time.
c. LAW is the lubricant to use during cold arctic conditions, + 100F (12C) and below
d. Any of the lubricants may be used from 10°F to + 100F (230C to 12°C)
e. ARMY ONLY: Do not mix lubricants on the same rifle The rifle must be thoroughly cleaned during change from one
lubricant to another Dry Cleaning Solvent (SD) (Item 16, app D) is recommended for cleaning during change from one
lubricant to another.
f. Rifle Bore Cleaner (RBC) (item 12, app D) may be used to remove carbon buildup In the bore and other portions of
the rifle.
2-33

[huudoo]

Weapon Lubricant for Reliable FIrearm Function
Weapon Lubrication

Far and away the most common problem I see when instructing is lack of proper lubrication. This goes for civilians, LE, and military. Of the groups I train on a regular basis military Spec Ops definitely understands the importance of lube the most but it is still common to find weapons not lubricated properly. And what I mean by properly is having lube in/on the working parts of the weapon.
Many weapon systems will not tolerate lack of lubrication and continue to function for any length of time. The US military M16/M4 family and M9 pistol are prime examples of two weapons that do not work well or for long without lubricant. Another example is tightly fitted custom or semi custom 1911 pistols. Simply put these weapons and others REQUIRE lubricant to function reliably - no way around it.
There are weapons that do not require alot of lubricant to function reliably. The AK family and Glock pistols come to mind. Also HK does extensive testing for reliable function with little or no lube so by and large HK weapons are very forgiving to lack of lubricant by design. However too many shooters rely on that as standard operating procedure and don’t assess the situation correctly; these guns are designed to continue to function without lube in EXTREME (not daily) conditions but every weapon works better with lubricant.
The golden rule in weapons lubricant is you can run a gun dirty and wet, but not dirty and dry. Truer words have never been spoken about weapons lubricant. Guns always work better the cleaner they are but most modern designs are far more forgiving about carbon fouling than they are about lubrication. Remember to keep it lubed always and clean it when you can and you will be much better off over the long haul.
The topic of keeping a weapon dry in desert environments comes up quite often. Sand is the ultimate enemy of guns and can wreak havoc with modern small arms. I have been part of extreme weapons testing and can tell you that I have no doubt in my mind that in sandy environments you are much better of with a gun that is wet than one that is dry. Having sand coat your small arm like a sugar cookie with some lubricant still in place is a better situation than a completely dry weapon in a sandy environment. Your weapon may still malfunction but not anything like it would if it was bone dry. It is unbelievable how non functional a dry weapon can become in an extreme sandy environment. It will become manually operated at a bare minimum. Your best bet for a functional weapon in extreme conditions is to keep it lubed and keep it covered. It may take longer to employ the weapon depending on the cover used but it will most likely work when you need it to.
Last thing I will cover is choice of lubricant. First off any lube is better than no lube. Just because you don’t have your favorite synthetic gun oil doesn’t mean you don’t lube your weapon. With that being said in my experience the thin light lubes like WD40 and RemOil are to be avoided. They will provide a rust barrier and that is about it; they are not suitable for moving parts lubricant. There are alot of lubes on the market but I still like TW25B for a grease type lube and Militec for a wet lube. My friend Ken Hackathorn swears by aircraft grade Lubriplate and has used it for years as a grease type lube. The grease type lubricants require more effort to apply but tend to stay put longer. TW25B is superb for crew served weapons like belt feed machine guns and is the best lubricant I have ever seen for sandy or wet environments. In my old unit we affectionately call it ‘desert jizz’ because once we started using it the reliability of our belt fed weapons increased dramatically in extreme environments such as the desert. Highly recommended.
There are times where applying a grease lubricant is a pain such as high volume range fire sessions. For those applications as well as general purpose use I have used and like Militec wet lube. From my experience it works well even in temperature extremes and is the right balance between being too thin to do the job and so thick it gums up when cold. Keep in mind it is easy to apply so it is easy to come off also. With wet lubes like Militec you have to lubricate your weapon more frequently than with a grease like TW25B.
Please don’t get your panties in a bunch since I did not mention your pet lubricant. I am sure there are dozens of excellent lubricants on the market I am not aware of that do a great job; I am simply stating what has worked for me with very good results for many years. In parting I would remind you to remember two key points about weapons lube; any lube is better than no lube and you can run a gun dirty and wet (or lubed) but you cannot run one dirty and dry. Abide by these two rules and they will do you right

[deadzero]

good info^

just so you know, somewhere above mentioned "not mixing lubricants on the same gun". there is good reason for this. depending on the material used, mixing lubricants in an application can reduce the effectivness of the material by an extreme amount. (such as mixing different types of grease)
an example, on several occasions in the past I've seen grease mixed in wheel bearing applications, that under use, reduced themselves to liquid at a much reduced temperature than they should have.

this does not mean you cant use oil in places and grease in others. it just means don't mix them or mix different materials.