Good Knife for field dressing - Page 2

Ron AKA · 03-18-2008, 11:26 PM

I have a Gerber, but I don't know if they still make real hunting knives. About a 5" drop point with a solid non slip handle. A knife is not all you need, and from experience at least with moose, a saw and axe is almost essential. You never know when you are going to be silly enough to drop one so far out that it has to be back packed out.

Ron

Zen900 · 03-19-2008, 12:44 AM

Does anyone prefer stainless steel blades? I actually get sharper edges from cheap steel knives. Stainless is difficult to sharpen to a good edge. All the knives I have that have lasted over the years are stainless though. For an edge get steel but for longevity get stainless.

Nathan123 · 03-19-2008, 12:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zen900

Does anyone prefer stainless steel blades? I actually get sharper edges from cheap steel knives. Stainless is difficult to sharpen to a good edge. All the knives I have that have lasted over the years are stainless though. For an edge get steel but for longevity get stainless.

I hate stainless steel knives with a passion. They are difficult to get an edge on and then loose that edge very quickly. They are built for show not work.

andrew cochran · 03-19-2008, 08:28 AM

I have to agree about stainless steel blades you sharpen. However with my knife I get stainless steel blades that are already sharp. I mean sharp!

nighthawk80 · 03-19-2008, 10:40 AM

These are pretty decent:
Buck Zipper Series Knives

I'm going to try a cheaper winchester this year. Kinda looks like the Buck, just a little smaller.

Nathan123 · 03-20-2008, 03:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrew cochran

I have to agree about stainless steel blades you sharpen. However with my knife I get stainless steel blades that are already sharp. I mean sharp!

But what happens when it gets blunt? Do you toss it out and buy a new one?

That is why i like a good quality steel in my knives, once it gets a bit dull i just give it a quick rub on the steel and the job is done. No hassle, no fuss, and it wont lose that edge after a handful of cuts. When the edge finally gets to the stage where it needs a little more than a rub on the steel, a few minuets on a stone then a quick rub on a steel and it is as good as new. But if that were a stainless blade it would take hours and hours to get it right, then after a few minuets work it wouldnt cut a saussage.

andrew cochran · 03-20-2008, 08:43 AM

Havalon Knives Pro Trophy Skinner, Piranta hunting knives, Fred Carter look at the pyranta knives! You buy the knife and you buy 12 or 100 blades. When a blade gets dull you take it off and put a new blade on the knife! The blades are repaceable!

knightRider · 03-20-2008, 09:05 AM

I have 2 micro techs one 4 inch blade socom and one 6 inch blade socom elite

TomAnsley · 03-20-2008, 10:35 AM

I have both models of the Havalon and I dont know how they can call them skinning knives,The shape of the tip and blade strength leave alot to be desired.A big knife store is www.bladehq.com. I have a bunch of skinning knives,The boker ceramic you can skin 10 deer and it will still be sharp,Skin 1 pig and its done.A good economical one is the kalisnakov made with aus8 steel.There are just too many choices out there!

andrew cochran · 03-21-2008, 08:52 AM

I happen to like my havalon however as TomAnsley said they do tend to break. They are great for small game but are kinda short for big game.

rfc357 · 03-21-2008, 09:15 AM

I have been using the same 4" Buck folder for 40 years. It works every time.

J-Rod · 04-14-2008, 11:25 PM

I use an Uncle Henry fixed blade. Stays sharp throughout deer season, and I clean most of them (love to get my hands bloody

)

lefty o · 04-15-2008, 12:01 AM

i dont use anything fancy, have a couple old combat knives, 5-7" blades. sharp enough to easily gut a deer, strong enough to break the pelvis.

Lng Rng · 04-15-2008, 01:36 AM

I generally carry a smaller hatchet in my pack to break the pelvis, it has always worked well for me.

J-Rod · 04-15-2008, 12:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lng Rng

I generally carry a smaller hatchet in my pack to break the pelvis, it has always worked well for me.

I carry a gerber folding saw for the pelvis, its pretty handy.

Silent Shooter · 04-15-2008, 01:05 PM

I use an original Centofante made in 1969 back when he lived in Tampa and made straight knives...

Let the stoning begin.

Oxford · 04-15-2008, 01:30 PM

For degutting and butchering deer I use a 5" Remington, rubber gripped fixed blade knife. Check these out: D-Series™ Fixed-Blade Knives

Widux · 04-17-2008, 05:40 PM

Case Yellow jacket- 2 blade lock- folder-@about $20 it's best buy i've had out of about 40 knives in my shop including a few custom ones and two I made my self- has done maybe 20 caribou-- 15 or so moose- many deer- pigs- bears etc and hasn't missed a lick-- two blades good for big animals --goes quciker than havong to stop to sharpen it all the time-

03-19-2008, 08:28 AM	#24
andrew cochran Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Little town in ARKANSAW! Posts: 2,155	I have to agree about stainless steel blades you sharpen. However with my knife I get stainless steel blades that are already sharp. I mean sharp! __________________ If you don't have anything good to say... Don't say it!

03-20-2008, 08:43 AM	#27
andrew cochran Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Little town in ARKANSAW! Posts: 2,155	Havalon Knives Pro Trophy Skinner, Piranta hunting knives, Fred Carter look at the pyranta knives! You buy the knife and you buy 12 or 100 blades. When a blade gets dull you take it off and put a new blade on the knife! The blades are repaceable! __________________ If you don't have anything good to say... Don't say it!

03-20-2008, 09:05 AM	#28
knightRider Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: you know where Posts: 2,683 Images: 19 Blog Entries: 11	I have 2 micro techs one 4 inch blade socom and one 6 inch blade socom elite __________________ I'm part kalishnakov, part heckler and Koch.

03-21-2008, 08:52 AM	#30
andrew cochran Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Little town in ARKANSAW! Posts: 2,155	I happen to like my havalon however as TomAnsley said they do tend to break. They are great for small game but are kinda short for big game. __________________ If you don't have anything good to say... Don't say it!

04-14-2008, 11:25 PM	#32
J-Rod Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 23	I use an Uncle Henry fixed blade. Stays sharp throughout deer season, and I clean most of them (love to get my hands bloody)

03-18-2008, 11:26 PM	#21
Ron AKA Banned Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Alberta, Canada Posts: 704	I have a Gerber, but I don't know if they still make real hunting knives. About a 5" drop point with a solid non slip handle. A knife is not all you need, and from experience at least with moose, a saw and axe is almost essential. You never know when you are going to be silly enough to drop one so far out that it has to be back packed out. Ron

03-19-2008, 12:44 AM	#22
Zen900 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Posts: 701	Does anyone prefer stainless steel blades? I actually get sharper edges from cheap steel knives. Stainless is difficult to sharpen to a good edge. All the knives I have that have lasted over the years are stainless though. For an edge get steel but for longevity get stainless.

03-19-2008, 10:40 AM	#25
nighthawk80 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Just south of Central Indiana Posts: 403	These are pretty decent: Buck Zipper Series Knives I'm going to try a cheaper winchester this year. Kinda looks like the Buck, just a little smaller.

03-20-2008, 10:35 AM	#29
TomAnsley Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 47	I have both models of the Havalon and I dont know how they can call them skinning knives,The shape of the tip and blade strength leave alot to be desired.A big knife store is www.bladehq.com. I have a bunch of skinning knives,The boker ceramic you can skin 10 deer and it will still be sharp,Skin 1 pig and its done.A good economical one is the kalisnakov made with aus8 steel.There are just too many choices out there!

03-21-2008, 09:15 AM	#31
rfc357 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 741	I have been using the same 4" Buck folder for 40 years. It works every time.

04-15-2008, 12:01 AM	#33
lefty o Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: mn Posts: 4,806	i dont use anything fancy, have a couple old combat knives, 5-7" blades. sharp enough to easily gut a deer, strong enough to break the pelvis.

04-15-2008, 01:36 AM	#34
Lng Rng Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Minnesota Posts: 944	I generally carry a smaller hatchet in my pack to break the pelvis, it has always worked well for me.

04-15-2008, 01:05 PM	#36
Silent Shooter Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 292	I use an original Centofante made in 1969 back when he lived in Tampa and made straight knives... Let the stoning begin. __________________ http://sosministries.phpbb-host.com/index-forum.php

04-15-2008, 01:30 PM	#37
Oxford Super Moderator Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Gladstone, Missouri Posts: 13,023 Blog Entries: 4	For degutting and butchering deer I use a 5" Remington, rubber gripped fixed blade knife. Check these out: D-Series™ Fixed-Blade Knives __________________ "If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right".

04-17-2008, 05:40 PM	#38
Widux Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Melvina, Wi. Posts: 24	Case Yellow jacket- 2 blade lock- folder-@about $20 it's best buy i've had out of about 40 knives in my shop including a few custom ones and two I made my self- has done maybe 20 caribou-- 15 or so moose- many deer- pigs- bears etc and hasn't missed a lick-- two blades good for big animals --goes quciker than havong to stop to sharpen it all the time-