[Big Dog]

COOL! Looks like an LMG that way.

I read once, from a Spanish CETME owner on Gunboards.com, that the Spanish troops often held the CETME by the magwell instead of the forend. I do it at the range - it works! I've also used the mag as a 'rest' on the bench - the mags are usually snug enough this won't cause problems.

The owners of rifles with the CIA plastic forend often drill out those dummy holes - for exactly the reason you said - cooling!
Some swap in the HK Wide Forend with internal sheetmetal heatshield - works well for rapid fire.

[just_a_car]

Quote:       Originally Posted by Big Dog

COOL! Looks like an LMG that way.

Yup, I thought it looked a little like the AES-10s that I've been drooling over. Thanks for the comment/compliment. I hope it may have spurred some creative thoughts in others that may not have considered it.

Quote:       Originally Posted by Big Dog

I read once, from a Spanish CETME owner on Gunboards.com, that the Spanish troops often held the CETME by the magwell instead of the forend. I do it at the range - it works! I've also used the mag as a 'rest' on the bench - the mags are usually snug enough this won't cause problems.

Actually, that's pretty much the only way I shoot it. With the T-6 adjustable stock adjusted to a comfortable length-of-pull, the forearm is just too far forward to comfortably hold with my off-hand. It also allows me to hold the rifle against my shoulder without using my shooting hand to do so. The gentle curve from the trunnion to the magwell is almost perfectly designed for that use.

Quote:       Originally Posted by Big Dog

The owners of rifles with the CIA plastic forend often drill out those dummy holes - for exactly the reason you said - cooling! Some swap in the HK Wide Forend with internal sheetmetal heatshield - works well for rapid fire.

I'm pretty sure I'll be drilling out most of those holes (the four forward ones in each group of six on each side) but the rear ones have the barrel supports behind them, so I'll have to either leave them closed or only open them partway. I'd love to replace it with the Tapco Aluminum 3-rail Handguard, but it's just too expensive. It has a lot of vents on it and aluminum dissipates heat very quickly. With a set of rail covers, even if it got really hot, you should be okay to use it as a handguard.

[sean46953]

Looks pretty good! What's the range on one of those lasers, like how far out will it put the light? Can the bipod be fitted in front of the hand guard in order to leave the hand guard in place? The bipod weigh alot?

[knightRider]

goto cheaper then dirt they have hk g3 stock forearms and pistol grips for 17.99
and the han gaurds have metal inside and there not plastic there fiber glass got one for mine and its 100 times better

[SilentSoul]

I had never heard of these rifles until I happened upon this thread. Those are very nice, I need one. .308?

[just_a_car]

Quote:       Originally Posted by SilentSoul

I had never heard of these rifles until I happened upon this thread. Those are very nice, I need one. .308?

Indeed, .308Win/7.62x51NATO. Preferably the NATO round, but either function in the gun. Funny part is, it'll be the least recoil you've ever felt out of a .308 chambered rifle. It feels like a Bushmaster M4 firing .223 Remington, to me.

[Enscribe]

Figured I'd add my pic to this thread. Just got her used and so far no problems except for with metal casing russian something(Not Wolf) H&K Handguard is the best bet but you may have to do light machining (very easy!) to get it to fit properly. CETME por vida.
pic 1 my rifle
pic 2 anybody know what this is? (behind strap clip and in front of foreguard.)
pic 3 is this really a flash enhancer? increasing flash to a crucifix and increasing boom of the sound?

[just_a_car]

Enscribe, the thumbnails show up and I can see the small pics, but for some reason, all three come up with having errors and they won't show.

If I could see the thing you're talking about in the second pic (which looks like a little rusty bracket in the thumbnail) I could try to help you out with that...

Yeah, that muzzle break is affectionately known as the "muzzle blast enhancer".

[Enscribe]

I'll try again but when I click it it loads.
It's not rusty but brown ish painted. I was thinking it was a bipod fitting from the O.G. rifle before CAI got ahold of it. but don't know.
Is it true that the "Enhancer" won't work with the bayonet?

[just_a_car]

Quote:       Originally Posted by Enscribe

what's up with moderator approval on everything I do? Is that really a problem in here?

We had quite a few spammers a while back so Chris instated it to prevent it from showing up and the mods could just delete them. It keeps the site really "clean" as far as spam; we rarely ever see any. The approval goes away after a certain number of posts; not sure how many.

[Enscribe]

It's not rust its brown paint.the thing I'm talking about is part of the H&K foreguard. I didn't realize it was connected. Still trying to figure out what it is.
on a side note does anyone have a spare bayonet lug they want to part with?
Does anyone know how to get my MUZZLE BLAST CRAPTASTIC ENHANCER off?
Does it involve welds? or is it threaded. It's a CAI model. I don't want to crank on it if it's welded for obvious reasons.

[just_a_car]

Now that I can see it, I think it's where the bipod rides that fits back into those grooves on the forearm. Like on this one: G3/HK91 Wide Forearm/Bipod Set (Green or Black)
They also sell the one like your's without the bipod.

As for the muzzle break, there will be a small painted-over weld area on the bottom that will need to be ground down. It is holding in a pin that keeps the muzzle break from screwing off. If you try to twist it off without removing that pin, you will probably break the pin and likely damage either the barrel, the threads or the muzzle break. It may not be obvious where the weld is, as they painted over it... you'll have to look close and removing the black paint will help identify it.

[Enscribe]

Is it true that you van use Krylon High temp to cover up any machining you do.
If I grind on it it'll be exsposed metal and how am I gonna make it match the finish on the gun. Getting that thing off is my new number one priority. Thanks for the welcome and advice. just an awesome car.
On a side note I finally figured out how that claw (stanag) mount goes on without shifting. it has a little rubber bumper that seems to snug it up pretty damn tight. we'll find out this weekend if it's slipping. The best part of the Stanag for me is it makes it a little easier to use the iron sights as it makes a tunnel effect for you vision. I can't use those sigths unless I close an eye, which I've been told is not the way to aim at things. It seems hard to focus my dominant eye for some reason, never experienced that with any gun before. I'm sure I'll get used to it though. some day I may try to put the battle sights on it.

[LakerDad]

here's mine again---I'm still having toubles seeing the photos on some and on mine.

[Enscribe]

nice 30rd. magazine! hows it feed?
My CETME is gonna get a small test shoot tomorrow and then the big one on Saturday.
Got 100 Rds Indian ammo in the mail today so we'll see. I've seen some threads that say its crap, but if it doesn't jam it's cheap for me. And all I can find otherwise is Wolf for like $8.00 a box or the us surplus for $11.25 a box. I got 50 for $20.00 so I guess its about equal.
I wish prices were as cheap as they were a few years ago.

[just_a_car]

Enscribe, I'd suggest getting a can of matte black Duracoat® to finish it off with. I'd also suggest to have some oil readily handy to hit the newly-exposed metal with when you're done grinding; it will keep it from rusting now that it's exposed to the air. You can then just wash it off with a harsh solvent like automotive electric parts cleaner that leaves no residue just prior to painting.

I really like the Accushot mount for that same reason that it has a see-through mount that tunnels the sights perfectly. Unfortunately, I have yet to learn how to shoot accurately without closing my non-dominant eye.

[Enscribe]

Black matte duracoat it is then. thanks JAC
I can't seem to find any weld spot on my blast enhancer. it looks like it's just threaded on and maybe glued? there is a residue that sort of looks like glue wear the seam between the barrel threades and the MBEnancer. Would somebody really do that? I'll keep inspecting but I have no plan at this point. Does anyone know of an instructional vid or pdf of something? Can't imagine I'm the only one who doesn't prefer bloody ear drums and an exspensive firestarter. ( I've got a flame shooting in all directions if I shoot at night.)
anyone got the hooks on ammo out there?

[LakerDad]

Thanks Enscribe, so far all the mags I have work without any jams The 30 rd mag came from Cheaper than dirt $11, I've seen them at $9 but don't remember where.
Be very careful to look over all your rounds, checking for bulges, dents/kinked, bullet seating, [I had some that actually was half in and half out of the casing, causing the brass to bunch up] I bought 1260 rds back in 2003 for $160, too much back then, I have shot 80/100 rounds with out any problems. I had check all of the rounds and found 29 bad ones which was too many I think.
Check the date of the head stamp, you may have the "good" stuff. Anyway, please wear your safety glasses and your hearing protection!
Pay attention to the sounds and watch for anything that isn't normal. You don't want to ram a new round in when the last round sent the bullet half way up the barrel.
Some thoughts on the MBEnancer, 1) use JB weld to plug the holes up, or 2) tap the holes to install set screws, or 3) make a alum or steel sleeve/coupling to slide over the MBEnancer and set screw/tape/glue/JB weld. 4) cut some tin/sheetmetal/etc and wrap around MBEnancer and use hose clamps to tighten down on.
I watched a guy shoot his model 91 full auto, what a blast, a big bright fire ball, and very loud!!! It would blind you at night. I guess you had some vision problems shooting at night too! Try welding glasses... hehehe

[Enscribe]

Thanks for the advice but I want that thing gone and I want a flash suppressor, but maybe I could clamp it temporary style.
I shot twenty one rounds of Indian ammo today and had one jam for an unknown reason(the casing looked fine when I got it out? maybe extractors dirty.). I cleaned and inspected the Indieammo last night. it wasn't to bad. not very much corrosion at all. I can't read any of the writing on the battle packs but it was all in stripper clips, and definitely not very recent. I've seen 200 rds. online for $40.00 which is double what I got for the same price. It looks like it's different than mine so I may try that next. ((PM) if you want the site) Their is a gun show near where I live tomorrow so I'm going to try my luck their for something good. Fingers are crossed.
Upon loading my magazines I figure I may have some worn Mag. springs also. JAC were'd you get those springs from.
On a side note. I couldn't see the pictures either untill I changed my Screen Format. I'd suggest going to your profile and changing the Format to the newest one (I think their's 3 Choices.)
I'll let ya'll know how this weekend's testing goes. Luckily in Colorado theirs plenty of places to shoot with no one around. not that they won't hear me with that MBEnhancer. Happy shooting this weekend. maybe it'll be nice.

[just_a_car]

Enscribe, your MB may be soldered with silver solder in the threads that may need to be heated to get out. If I were you, I'd get some solvent and get that paint off of it so that you can see what you're working with. There is a pin there somewhere, they just did a darn good job of smoothing out the weld and painting it over.

I read on another gun forum that they didn't think that propane was hot enough to melt silver solder, but that mapp gas was and that they just got the bottles that fit the propane torch heads. I mention that just in case it is soldered on.

The springs can be gotten for $0.75 each here, about halfway down the page with no picture: G3 Parts - HK91 Parts - HK 91 Parts - HK-91 Parts - HK Parts - Cetme Parts - Original German HK Parts