Eddystone Mod. 1917

Roys · 02-13-2007, 08:04 AM

Eddystone, Model of 1917. I have a question for all of you out there. I purchased the M1917 from CMP a couple of years ago, it was the best they had at the time, and upon checking it out I noticed that it seemed to have little (as in not much) rifling, even after extensive use of the bore brush and several FMJs it didn’t look any better. Apparently it had seen a few too-many ceremonies after active duty. This is not my only bullet launcher so none of them get abused by me, and it’s not as easy to find a place to shoot here in the east as it was out west, so they get even less use now. So here is what I have, An Eddystone built in June of 1918, and from what I gather doesn’t have that much value owing to the fact that they made up about one half of all bolt guns made in that time period. None of the numbers match (naturally). The lacquer on the furniture is flaking off and should be refinished (and it will be when I get around to it!!) and I haven’t seen any rust on it. Now my question is, what would you do if you were in my place?
Options: 1) Leave it alone. 2) Have it sleeved (I have only seen sleeves for .22 cal. I guess they have larger calibers) 3) Re-barrel it $125.95 in the white plus machine work. (Gun Parts) 4) Have it re-rifled up one caliber. 8mm ?. What do you say? Thanks, Roy

Mooseman684 · 02-13-2007, 10:01 AM

I would leave it alone, due to the fact that they have gained value and are more desireable with the original barrel...and hopefully the full military stock, not sporterized. If you could find an Original replacement barrel That wouldn't hurt the value as much. An Original High polish Blue Model starts at about 750.00 up to 2500.00 for a mint one. A reworked Matte blue or parkerized one starts at 350.00 up to 750.00 for a mint one....

Rich

BattleRifleG3 · 02-13-2007, 10:06 AM

Rerifled/rebored would be a good choice if you are planning to use a round based on the 30-06. These include the wildcats 8mm-06, 338-06, and 375 Whelen, and 400 Whelen. The 400 Whelen has difficulty headspacing since it headspaces on the rim. The only factory round based on the 30-06 and larger in bore, and my recommendation, would be the 35 Whelen.

This round has a surprisingly good trajectory for a bullet its size in a non-magnum case. It's actually comparable with the 350 Rem Mag, which is a short belted magnum.

Its knockdown and trajectory would be well suited to a rifle with the sites of your 1917. You could keep them in use and use a "scout" type scope mount ahead of the action with a long eye relief scope.

A reboring job would probably be comparable in price to a rebarreling. So I would say that if the 35 Whelen or one of the wildcats I mentioned is your choice, then rebore away. Reboring would also be fine if you're going up to a magnum round like the 338 Win mag or 375 H&H, but I'd verify that the original barrel can afford to lose the metal and take the higher pressure as well. The new 375 Ruger may also be an option, but would be the biggest stretch of all due to pressures and metal removal.

M1D-Garand · 02-13-2007, 02:06 PM

I would re-barrel in the original cal. (AND keep the old barrel for collector use)

Rob

Roys · 02-23-2007, 02:19 PM

To Rich, Worf and Rob.
Thank you for your input, it was very informative. I checked with three gun shops within 45 miles of home and found the following, the first smith stuck a gauge up the chamber and it went about halfway in and said that wasn’t good (throat wear?) said he could re-barrel it (with a barrel with no markings) and be out the door for around $200.00. The second shop said they were too busy and referred me to the third shop which said the barrel comes in the white and after machine work and bluing would run about $400.00.
$400.00 is probably more than the whole thing is worth, so I won’t be going that way for a while. Re-rifling would be a good way to go and I lean towards the 8mm-06 but I see the potential for sticking a 30-06 in it by mistake, and yes the same could be said for a .308 in a 30-06 but the difference in length is more obvious. Sleeving a barrel apparently is done only in .22 cal. and antique / low pressure (black powder) guns. Which leaves two options, the $200.00 re-barrel job (I wonder why the big difference in price) and leave it alone. It still shoots better than an early smooth bore, I don’t use it to hunt or target practice, just an occasional plinker, so right now I think I’ll leave it alone, but there is always tomorrow and things could change. Thanks again for your input. Roy

02-13-2007, 08:04 AM	#1
Roys Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 32	Eddystone Mod. 1917 Eddystone, Model of 1917. I have a question for all of you out there. I purchased the M1917 from CMP a couple of years ago, it was the best they had at the time, and upon checking it out I noticed that it seemed to have little (as in not much) rifling, even after extensive use of the bore brush and several FMJs it didn’t look any better. Apparently it had seen a few too-many ceremonies after active duty. This is not my only bullet launcher so none of them get abused by me, and it’s not as easy to find a place to shoot here in the east as it was out west, so they get even less use now. So here is what I have, An Eddystone built in June of 1918, and from what I gather doesn’t have that much value owing to the fact that they made up about one half of all bolt guns made in that time period. None of the numbers match (naturally). The lacquer on the furniture is flaking off and should be refinished (and it will be when I get around to it!!) and I haven’t seen any rust on it. Now my question is, what would you do if you were in my place? Options: 1) Leave it alone. 2) Have it sleeved (I have only seen sleeves for .22 cal. I guess they have larger calibers) 3) Re-barrel it $125.95 in the white plus machine work. (Gun Parts) 4) Have it re-rifled up one caliber. 8mm ?. What do you say? Thanks, Roy

02-13-2007, 10:01 AM	#2
Mooseman684 Super Moderator Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Alaska Wilderness Posts: 9,673 Images: 2	I would leave it alone, due to the fact that they have gained value and are more desireable with the original barrel...and hopefully the full military stock, not sporterized. If you could find an Original replacement barrel That wouldn't hurt the value as much. An Original High polish Blue Model starts at about 750.00 up to 2500.00 for a mint one. A reworked Matte blue or parkerized one starts at 350.00 up to 750.00 for a mint one.... Rich __________________ You know you might be facing your doom,when all you get is a click when you're expecting a BOOM!

02-13-2007, 10:06 AM	#3
BattleRifleG3 Super Moderator Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Western PA Posts: 11,401 Images: 13	Rerifled/rebored would be a good choice if you are planning to use a round based on the 30-06. These include the wildcats 8mm-06, 338-06, and 375 Whelen, and 400 Whelen. The 400 Whelen has difficulty headspacing since it headspaces on the rim. The only factory round based on the 30-06 and larger in bore, and my recommendation, would be the 35 Whelen. This round has a surprisingly good trajectory for a bullet its size in a non-magnum case. It's actually comparable with the 350 Rem Mag, which is a short belted magnum. Its knockdown and trajectory would be well suited to a rifle with the sites of your 1917. You could keep them in use and use a "scout" type scope mount ahead of the action with a long eye relief scope. A reboring job would probably be comparable in price to a rebarreling. So I would say that if the 35 Whelen or one of the wildcats I mentioned is your choice, then rebore away. Reboring would also be fine if you're going up to a magnum round like the 338 Win mag or 375 H&H, but I'd verify that the original barrel can afford to lose the metal and take the higher pressure as well. The new 375 Ruger may also be an option, but would be the biggest stretch of all due to pressures and metal removal. __________________ Trust is earned, not... GIVEN away. - Worf

02-13-2007, 02:06 PM	#4
M1D-Garand Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Europe Posts: 369	I would re-barrel in the original cal. (AND keep the old barrel for collector use) Rob __________________ 8 Bangs and a Pling

02-23-2007, 02:19 PM	#5
Roys Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 32	To Rich, Worf and Rob. Thank you for your input, it was very informative. I checked with three gun shops within 45 miles of home and found the following, the first smith stuck a gauge up the chamber and it went about halfway in and said that wasn’t good (throat wear?) said he could re-barrel it (with a barrel with no markings) and be out the door for around $200.00. The second shop said they were too busy and referred me to the third shop which said the barrel comes in the white and after machine work and bluing would run about $400.00. $400.00 is probably more than the whole thing is worth, so I won’t be going that way for a while. Re-rifling would be a good way to go and I lean towards the 8mm-06 but I see the potential for sticking a 30-06 in it by mistake, and yes the same could be said for a .308 in a 30-06 but the difference in length is more obvious. Sleeving a barrel apparently is done only in .22 cal. and antique / low pressure (black powder) guns. Which leaves two options, the $200.00 re-barrel job (I wonder why the big difference in price) and leave it alone. It still shoots better than an early smooth bore, I don’t use it to hunt or target practice, just an occasional plinker, so right now I think I’ll leave it alone, but there is always tomorrow and things could change. Thanks again for your input. Roy