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Old 07-24-2003, 11:45 PM   #1
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Cap and ball revolvers - getting started

Can anyone say what all is required to operate cap and ball revolvers? Like tools and supplies?

So far I have -
consumables: caps, powder, bullets, wads
tools: powder measure, ? Somethin to ram down the bullets
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Old 07-25-2003, 03:17 AM   #2
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seems you have about everything but the revolver

rammer comes on the full sized pistols.
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Old 07-25-2003, 06:59 AM   #3
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Talking

Don't forget targets! Have fun and be safe.
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Old 07-25-2003, 07:43 AM   #4
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Both Cabelas and FAC offer 1858 revolvers. The FAC one that I'm looking at is by Traditions (I think). Not sure who Cabelas' is by. I think the price is same, or within $10. I'd get the blued steel model. Anyone know if one is better or if they're both by Traditions?
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Old 07-25-2003, 09:29 AM   #5
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Look into the Ruger black powder.
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Old 07-25-2003, 11:35 AM   #6
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Ruger's a little high priced for me at this point, if the prices are as I imagine. The ones I'm looking at would be sold directly to me for $160 + shippin.
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Old 07-25-2003, 12:16 PM   #7
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I fire a reproduction Model 1858 Remmington with brass frame. It's a lot of fun and you will come to understand the term fog of war if you fire off all six rounds quickly. Becareful of the possiblities of a chain fire though. Two or more rounds going off in order because of the sparks of the first round. If you properly use lubed "patches" at the end of each opening you should be ok.
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Old 07-27-2003, 10:21 AM   #8
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Cabelas carries Pietta. I have an '58 Rem and a Colt navy, both by Pietta, and they look great, nice fit and finish. Not as nice as the Ruger or Colts, of course, but every bit as accurate. It is fun to see the reactions of fellow shooters, especially when they see the groups at the 25 yd line. Fun for the money, but a different pace for sure. Get some Windex with vinegar. It really cleans things in a hurry. Bring your favorite oil and the Windex for extended shooting, spray things down when they foul enough to quit working, dry them off,swab the bore, run a set of caps only to clear the cylinder, and you are ready to go some more. I know the wads are supposed to make grease unnessary, but I still use grease. Had a buddy forget, and the chain fire from his Walker was not something to forget!
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Old 07-27-2003, 10:27 AM   #9
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WOULD LOVE TO HAVE SEEN THAT CHAIN FIRE!!!

must have been awesome, i'm not a blackpowder user. but i noticed Cabela has an 1873 Colt SAA reproduction, made for only cap and ball. whats the advantage in that???
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Old 08-03-2003, 03:02 PM   #10
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Additional tools: a good screwdriver properly sized for the screws of your gun, a good small needle-nose pliers, SHOOTING GLASSES, a small aluminum or plastic cake decorating tube to put grease in for preventing chain-fire, nipple wrench, a nipple pick (heavy paper clip will do), a stout wooden dowel just less than the caliber of the gun and about an inch longer than the barrel (for clearing a ball from the barrel), a second smaller wooden dowel that just fits thru the threads that hold the nipple in the cylinder (for clearing a seated ball only AFTER powder has been removed), and rags to wipe your greasy hands with. A long time ago they sold Italian percussion caps that were very very stiff - these would occasionally misfire as the foil was small enough to prevent the percussion charge from resting against the end of the nipple. The first hammer strike would merely seat the cap properly and it would take a second hammer strike to fire it. IF YOU EVER HAVE A MISFIRE KEEP THE WEAPON POINTED DOWNRANGE AND SLOWLY COUNT TO 20. DO NOT RECOCK THE REVOLVER UNTIL YOU KNOW THE CHAMBER ISN'T A HANGFIRE. DO NOT TRY TO PRY THE CAP OFF THE NIPPLE IN THE EVENT OF A MISFIRE OR IT MAY GO OFF LITERALLY IN YOUR FACE. When you load your ball, always seat it firmly on the powder leaving no void space. If you wish to experiment with reduced loads, you can use a filler between the powder and the ball (they sell vegetable fiber wadding for this or you can use a small amount of cornmeal). Be careful about reducing the load as too small a charge of powder will leave a ball lodged in the barrel. Reducing loads like this with blackpowder works but I do not know if it is safe with Pyrodex or other blackpowder substitutes and would ask before trying. Have fun & be careful because toys these are not.
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Old 08-03-2003, 03:48 PM   #11
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One more comment: with blackpowder my Spanish Remington reproduction builds up enough fouling after 24b rounds that it is very stiff to cock and must be cleaned around the base pin to have the action function smoothly. My Ruger Old Army can be fired many more times than this before fouling starts to be an issue. If you ever have this start to happen, clean your werapon right away as it is possible that the cylinder may not rotate fully and leave the chamber slightly mis-indexed with the barrel: minor mis-indexing will spray shaved lead around; major mis-indexing could be pretty spectacular and disasterous. Some weapons may have taken this into account and may not allow you to fire when mis-indexed but I wouldn't bet the farm that all the brands out there are trustworthy in this regard.
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Old 08-18-2003, 12:40 PM   #12
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BRG3...hows that cap and ball shooting going? Now that I joined a range, I'll probably get back into it also!
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Old 08-18-2003, 04:33 PM   #13
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Some company sells a replacement cylinder for the 1858 Army that allows you to shoot .45 Long Colt. You have to use a steel framed gun (no brass). Seemed like a good way to enhance the big hog leg. You then also have a totally unregistered NEW handgun.
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Old 08-18-2003, 05:42 PM   #14
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When I said I have it, I meant I have it on the list. Still have yet to buy one, but I wanna. Quick reloading extra cylinders seems more attractive to me than the very pricey 45 Colt cylinders.
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Old 08-18-2003, 07:28 PM   #15
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Hey dhermesc, have you got a name or web address for those companies with the Remington 45 long colt cylinders. I shoot a Model 1858 and I'm interested.

Last edited by Dallas; 08-18-2003 at 07:31 PM.
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