Lower capacity, lower profile revolvers

BattleRifleG3 · 06-01-2006, 02:03 PM

Nowadays lots of 38/357 revolvers that used to be 6 shot are now 7, and some larger frame revolvers designed for wider rounds like 44 and 45 are even offered in 8 shot capacities.

But to BattleRifle, who always has to have something different, well, that's going in the wrong direction. Who don't they use those advances in design, machining, and material technology to make a 6 shot cylinder a smaller diameter, allowing for a lower barrel axis and thus less muzzle jump? In fact, I'd be happy with a 5 shot 357 revolver IF it used the same technology to give me a lower barrel axis. (Actually I'd fire from the lower cylinder if I could design it, but revolvers aren't my area of expertise.)

So yeah, how does that sound? A 5 shot 357/38 revolver with a compact cylinder and lower profile in general? I'd be thinking normal barrel lkengths, like 2, 4, 6 inches.

Smith357 · 06-01-2006, 07:48 PM

I to am not a fan of the giagantor revolvers, I was very dissapointed when S&W discontinued the K frame in favor of the larger L frame. S&W does make The M60 a J frame 5 shot .357 in a 2, 3, and 5 inch version.

http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/w...756&tabselecte

Father Time · 06-01-2006, 09:55 PM

I used to carry a Taurus Model 607 with a 5 " barrel in 38/357 because of the 7 shot capacity, but I switched to a 4 1/2" Smith Model 60 and a Smith
Model 640 snubbie. They both fit my hand a lot better, and are more concealable.

mdw442 · 06-03-2006, 07:05 PM

Be careful with your Smith Model 60. If it is a stainless, especially if a 1988-1994 vintage, it will have what Smith calls a "floating" hand. This was an experimental design Smith used on many stainless revolvers (I've seen Model 60, 29, 625 and others!) during this period.

The problem with this design is if you shoot strong loads (magnum or +P), or if you shoot fast, the hand will not keep up with the cylinder and will JAM. These revolvers

Having owned revolvers with this problem, I can tell you there is NO fix other than to send it back to Smith and have them replace the experimental floating hand with a traditional solid one. Smith has never charged me anything for this repair, and to date they have done several for me.

To test and see if you have this problem, load up your Model 60 with some name brand factory .357 Magnum loads (like silvertips) and try shooting off a couple cylinders in rapid fire. More than likely, the trigger will stick after the 3rd or 4th shot.

Father Time · 06-04-2006, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mdw442

Be careful with your Smith Model 60. .

Thanks for the heads up. I haven't had any problems so far, but I will try some rapid fire.

utahvarminter · 06-06-2006, 08:36 PM

I've got a Smith and Wesson 27-2 (N frame) in 357, and it's great. The bigger frame will soak up some of the recoil. I went to my local shop, and saw a K (mighta been L) frame stainless in .357 with a 6" barrel... And it felt TINY! You migh as well go with an older 686 without that new lock thingy.

06-01-2006, 02:03 PM	#1
BattleRifleG3 Super Moderator Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Western PA Posts: 11,475 Images: 13	Lower capacity, lower profile revolvers Nowadays lots of 38/357 revolvers that used to be 6 shot are now 7, and some larger frame revolvers designed for wider rounds like 44 and 45 are even offered in 8 shot capacities. But to BattleRifle, who always has to have something different, well, that's going in the wrong direction. Who don't they use those advances in design, machining, and material technology to make a 6 shot cylinder a smaller diameter, allowing for a lower barrel axis and thus less muzzle jump? In fact, I'd be happy with a 5 shot 357 revolver IF it used the same technology to give me a lower barrel axis. (Actually I'd fire from the lower cylinder if I could design it, but revolvers aren't my area of expertise.) So yeah, how does that sound? A 5 shot 357/38 revolver with a compact cylinder and lower profile in general? I'd be thinking normal barrel lkengths, like 2, 4, 6 inches. __________________ Trust is earned, not... GIVEN away. - Worf

06-01-2006, 07:48 PM	#2
Smith357 Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Columbus, Ohio Posts: 29 Images: 9	I to am not a fan of the giagantor revolvers, I was very dissapointed when S&W discontinued the K frame in favor of the larger L frame. S&W does make The M60 a J frame 5 shot .357 in a 2, 3, and 5 inch version. http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/w...756&tabselecte __________________ http://img3.zoints.com/sigs/9.png

06-01-2006, 09:55 PM	#3
Father Time Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Northern Michigan Posts: 375 Images: 2	I used to carry a Taurus Model 607 with a 5 " barrel in 38/357 because of the 7 shot capacity, but I switched to a 4 1/2" Smith Model 60 and a Smith Model 640 snubbie. They both fit my hand a lot better, and are more concealable. __________________ You don't shoot to kill; you shoot to stay alive.

06-06-2006, 08:36 PM	#6
utahvarminter Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Utah Posts: 487	I've got a Smith and Wesson 27-2 (N frame) in 357, and it's great. The bigger frame will soak up some of the recoil. I went to my local shop, and saw a K (mighta been L) frame stainless in .357 with a 6" barrel... And it felt TINY! You migh as well go with an older 686 without that new lock thingy. __________________ My Photo Album

06-03-2006, 07:05 PM	#4
mdw442 Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Posts: 39	Be careful with your Smith Model 60. If it is a stainless, especially if a 1988-1994 vintage, it will have what Smith calls a "floating" hand. This was an experimental design Smith used on many stainless revolvers (I've seen Model 60, 29, 625 and others!) during this period. The problem with this design is if you shoot strong loads (magnum or +P), or if you shoot fast, the hand will not keep up with the cylinder and will JAM. These revolvers Having owned revolvers with this problem, I can tell you there is NO fix other than to send it back to Smith and have them replace the experimental floating hand with a traditional solid one. Smith has never charged me anything for this repair, and to date they have done several for me. To test and see if you have this problem, load up your Model 60 with some name brand factory .357 Magnum loads (like silvertips) and try shooting off a couple cylinders in rapid fire. More than likely, the trigger will stick after the 3rd or 4th shot.