Match trigger kits for 1911 pistols looking for info.

Iron_Colonel · 01-21-2008, 12:10 AM

I have been checking out some match trigger kits made by Fusion. They have a website at Fusionfirearms.com where you can investigate if necessary. I have a Springfield Armory pistol and I was looking to lighten my trigger pull a bit. I also located some match grade kits on gunbroker.com. Opinions or tips on price, reliability, experiences would be appreciated. Thanks. Brad.

Mooseman684 · 01-21-2008, 12:13 AM

I use Wilson Combat parts from Brownells when I build Special or RACE guns....
Never tried Fusion stuff.
Rich

nathangdad · 01-21-2008, 03:58 AM

Spend time checking out the quality of the workmanship of the firm doing the trigger work. It will be well worth it whether you send to the gun back to the maker or have a professional gunsmith change it to your specs.
This is a good forum for this type question.

rfc357 · 01-21-2008, 06:35 AM

You can get a sear jig and some stones and do it yourself. It is not difficult if you follow the dirctions. Also get Kuhnhausen's book. All this will cost less than the matched parts, and you will have the ability to do it again in the future.

Once you have the sear and hammer right, replace the trigger itself. Fitting the trigger is not difficult either. You just have to take your time. A trigger with an adjustable stop will allow you to remove most of the overtravel. Takeup is another issue. Make sure you do not remove too much overtravel, or you will be buying a new sear. Kuhnhausen's book will help here.

The best trigger job is firing about 500 rounds, or the equivalent amount of dry firing. That will smooth out the rough spots on the sear and hammer. Never touch the sear or hammer with a file!

I don't want to minimize the work of reputable gunsmiths, but there is nothing magic about a 1911 trigger mechanism. A gunsmith will get paid for his time, not for the possession of arcane knowledge not possessed by anyone else.

The drop-in match parts work fine if your frame holes are dead nuts on. Otherwise, you won't see any improvement, and may see a degradation in the trigger. Even the best frames can have out-of-tolerance holes. The benefit in working with the parts already in the gun is you know they work.

01-21-2008, 12:10 AM	#1
Iron_Colonel Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Washington St. Posts: 300 Trader Rating: (0)	Match trigger kits for 1911 pistols looking for info. I have been checking out some match trigger kits made by Fusion. They have a website at Fusionfirearms.com where you can investigate if necessary. I have a Springfield Armory pistol and I was looking to lighten my trigger pull a bit. I also located some match grade kits on gunbroker.com. Opinions or tips on price, reliability, experiences would be appreciated. Thanks. Brad.

01-21-2008, 12:13 AM	#2
Mooseman684 Super Moderator Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Alaska Wilderness Posts: 9,252 Trader Rating: (0)	I use Wilson Combat parts from Brownells when I build Special or RACE guns.... Never tried Fusion stuff. Rich __________________ You know you might be facing your doom,when all you get is a click when you're expecting a BOOM!

01-21-2008, 03:58 AM	#3
nathangdad Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 2,251 Trader Rating: (0)	Quality of firm Spend time checking out the quality of the workmanship of the firm doing the trigger work. It will be well worth it whether you send to the gun back to the maker or have a professional gunsmith change it to your specs. This is a good forum for this type question.

01-21-2008, 06:35 AM	#4
rfc357 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 741 Trader Rating: (0)	You can get a sear jig and some stones and do it yourself. It is not difficult if you follow the dirctions. Also get Kuhnhausen's book. All this will cost less than the matched parts, and you will have the ability to do it again in the future. Once you have the sear and hammer right, replace the trigger itself. Fitting the trigger is not difficult either. You just have to take your time. A trigger with an adjustable stop will allow you to remove most of the overtravel. Takeup is another issue. Make sure you do not remove too much overtravel, or you will be buying a new sear. Kuhnhausen's book will help here. The best trigger job is firing about 500 rounds, or the equivalent amount of dry firing. That will smooth out the rough spots on the sear and hammer. Never touch the sear or hammer with a file! I don't want to minimize the work of reputable gunsmiths, but there is nothing magic about a 1911 trigger mechanism. A gunsmith will get paid for his time, not for the possession of arcane knowledge not possessed by anyone else. The drop-in match parts work fine if your frame holes are dead nuts on. Otherwise, you won't see any improvement, and may see a degradation in the trigger. Even the best frames can have out-of-tolerance holes. The benefit in working with the parts already in the gun is you know they work.