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Old 04-07-2008, 01:26 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitch_mckee View Post
The notch IS the rear sight!

It's a repro.
Of course it's a repro!!! And a cheap one at that. I doubt there's many real 1851 Colt Navy's out there for $200 at Bass Pro Shops. Summer's coming, and I have a gun club membership now. I'll have to give it another chance to redeem itself, or at least show me where it's sending my bullets. I'll start with a target in the center of a 4x8 sheet of cheap paneling or something.

It's fun to shoot, but it's fun to hit things too. And I've always fired it off a rest too, very slow and careful, and STILL haven't identified where it's hitting. I sure wouldn't want to have to fight Indians or Rebs with it, I'll tell ya that.
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Last edited by rondog; 04-07-2008 at 01:29 AM.
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Old 04-07-2008, 03:18 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by nick112207 View Post
yeah i like the 1858 models as well because of that extra metal at the top, but i really like the engraving on the navy revolvers cylinder. who knows, maybe ill buy the navy one now, shoot it for a bit, then buy the 1858 later and just retire the navy revolver as a wall ornament. and i highly doubt ill be spending the money to be able to shoot .45LC, that just seems like too much of an investment when i could buy a used ruger black hawk convertible for as much as those cylinders cost. i think ill go with the .36 try to keep it authentic. oh also, the precussion caps, what kind do they have to be? i looked and i saw musket caps and another one but i didnt find any revolver specific caps

Personally I prefer the 1858 model, I have two (Uberti), one blue with standard sights, the other stainless with target sights. I believe the 1858 model is one of the stronger models and doesn't loosen up like the ones with no top strap do. Of the models most of the guys in my club shoot, I think the 44's tend to be most popular for competition use; I've tried a few .36's but been pretty hopeless with them,even at 25 metres, whereas I can still hit the 50 metre target with the 44's (freehand). Most of them use a #10 or #11 cap.
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Old 04-07-2008, 03:49 AM   #23
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I used to have a LOT of fun with my repro colt walker and 1860 colt army.Only thing that used to give me the SHITES was cleaning them after every use.Bucket of hot soapy water and a full strip and oil.The ruger old army is the better option.I know fellas that when the mrs wasnt watching would take off the timber grips and throw it in the dishwasher.
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Old 04-07-2008, 05:13 AM   #24
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Rondog, you might try two things with that poor shooter.
1) Get the bore slugged - you might not be using the size balls it needs.
Most repros - Uberti and Pietta, and others, need the .452 balls, but some like the Ruger use .457.
2) You can install a blade front sight like I did - made the from a cut-down nickel coin. I JB Welded them, but soldering is better. It lowered the POI so it no longer shoots too high, as most tend to do!
The 'notch and bead' sights are not very precise!
Now the pistols shoot a two inch group at 25 yards.

You can also try other powders. I've never been able to find real BP locally, and Pyrodex is spotty in performance. Leaves lots of crud too!
I like Hodgdon's Triple-Seven powder - it burns much cleaner, making cleanup far easier, and it improved my reliability and accuracy! It is 10% hotter though, so you reduce your loads accordingly.

My three Cap&Balls are all brass-framed .44s - two 1851 Navies and an 1860 Army - all Piettas. One 1851 is from the 70's - it's been 'hot loaded' and abused - has issues with ill-fitting internal parts. But the frame,cylinder and barrel are still in excellent shape. No problems with the supposed 'brass frame stretching' others warn of.
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Old 04-07-2008, 07:03 AM   #25
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I like the 1851 for the balance and feel. It just fits my hand better than any hand gun that I have ever had my hands on in my life.

Due to the difference in the Dollar to the Euro, the price is going up fast on the Italian replicas. They have went up 30 to 50% in the last 4 years.

Me, and this is just my opinion, the best (if you can afford it, I can’t) would the Cimarron .36 caliber model 1851 made by Uberti. Cimarron has stiffer specs on what they buy from Uberti and then they have their smiths go through them before they are sold. They sell the best of the best.

Here is a link to the Cimarron 1851:

1851 Navy - Cimarron Firearms - Old West Guns and Cowboy Action Shooting Firearms

Click on product info for the specs on in.
It does not come with anything but the revolver, every thing else you have to buy. It goes for around $300.00

I shoot what I can afford and that is a Pietta model 1851. The finish is not as good and the internals are not as smooth, but I can afford it and it comes with every thing needed to shoot but the holster, caps and powder. $230.00

Here is a link to the Pietta 1851:

Cabela's -- 1851 Navy .36 Cal Revolver with Starter Kit

Here is a link on how to use and clean your revolver.

Black Powder Primer

Last edited by LEE3370; 04-07-2008 at 07:04 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old 04-07-2008, 10:45 AM   #26
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well actually 300 for that gun doesnt seem too bad. since all the ones im finding for sale around here are 240 or so at the cheapest with the steel frame. and on midwayusa all the guns are very close to 300. so that cimarron isnt that big a stretch
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Old 04-07-2008, 04:25 PM   #27
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All the ones I've seen take #11 percussion caps, same as most percussion rifles.
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Old 04-08-2008, 07:29 AM   #28
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Some revolvers take #10 caps and others use #11 caps. It is up to the company that made it and the nipples they use.
If you want a Ruger Old Army, better get it now. Ruger has stopped making them.
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Old 04-08-2008, 10:26 PM   #29
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nah i dont like the look of the Ruger cap and ball pistols. besides im saving up to eventually buy a Ruger Blackhawk .45 Colt/ .45 ACP
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