New Gun Owner with lots of questions

G3MINI · 11-06-2009, 12:44 AM

Hi all. So I inherited 3 pistols from my uncle. They are

Colt Official Police 38

Colt Single Action Frontier Scout .22 LR

And the crown jewel:
Ruger Redhawk .44 Magnum Cal.

Well the crown jewels were kept by my father but he tells me when he passes on he'll leave me those as well.

So growing up in the mountains of NC, you're almost always exposed to firearms. I use to go out to my friend's house and his father would let us fire off the rifles and shotguns in the woods (nearest neighbors were over 5 miles in any direction). If we wanted to shoot the pistols he required that he be present. Anyways, not being the owner of the guns I never got to learn the rules of ownership. I only learned proper safety and shooting practice.

But now that I have some of my own I've got a ton of questions. First these have been in storage for 6+ years. They look to need a serious cleaning but like I said I haven't the foggiest what's required to do this. Both Colts look to have had a solvent on them that removed the blueing.

Is this repairable or is it worth it?

Second both Colts seem to have broken/chipped grips, so which grip types would work with them? I read on another post that the .38 uses a python grip? Is one brand better for comfort and accuracy?

Third, I have no intention of selling these and want to preserve them as best I can. I plan to practice with them at a local range but am looking for care suggestions. Money's not limitless but I don't wish to skimp either. Is there a quality kit I should buy or tools that would make cleaning a lot easier?
Fourth and final for now, I'd like to learn their histories. Is it possible to learn their age by looking up their serial numbers?

Oh yes, another one just popped into my mind. Granted it's been 15 years since I've handle a fire arm but I'm used to them having a safety. Yet none of these do. Is this customary for revolvers?

pajaro · 11-06-2009, 02:44 AM

actually, i like your colt 38 the best, but that's just me.....
there is no safety on revolvers...
i wouldn't worry at this point about the finish.....
as far as cleaning, you should be able to fnd inexpensive cleaning kits at any gunshop or sporting goods store.....
as far as the history of these, sorry... i don't know anything about colts or rugers......

Ninja Piper · 11-06-2009, 02:50 AM

First of all, welcome to G&G! You came to the right place with your questions. I don't have any experience at all with revolvers, but you have a great start to a collection there! I have to agree with pajaro, I like the Colt police .38 best.

Mr. 22 · 11-06-2009, 03:12 AM

Revolver Safety.....?

For most single actions - Always have the hammer on an empty chamber. There are, of course, exceptions, but better to be safe than sorry!

samuel · 11-06-2009, 03:22 AM

If you keep the outer surface oiled good rust should be no problem as long as they are stored in a controled atmosphere area.I am waiting on Mooseman as to advice on any restoring. ,,,sam.

mitchr · 11-06-2009, 09:27 AM

You could possibly get manuals, etc. off internet. I don't know about Colt, but some manufacturers offer manuals to down load on their web site. There is a sub forum on this site specifically for Colt that might be helpful.

big shrek · 11-06-2009, 02:25 PM

Colt Official Police .38
parts - Firearm Parts and Accessories | Numrich Gun Parts Corp. | e-GunParts.com
May I suggest their stag horn grips?

Colt Frontier Scout
three models Firearm Parts and Accessories | Numrich Gun Parts Corp. | e-GunParts.com

Schematic's the same for all three. They share a fair amount of parts as well.

Check here for Manuals...under "C" for Colt

page7b

That should get you started

Determine the model of Frontier Scout and you are set

big boomer · 11-06-2009, 02:36 PM

You got 3 very nice guns the first 2 are collectable and the 3rd a fine shooter although all 3 will shoot just fine. I would not do any thing but clean and oil the guns unless they get so worn as to need work and then i would send them to colt for repair. its looks like all 3 are in good shape a little bluing loss is not a big deal unless selling them. get some pistol cleaning supplies and go to it. a pistol cleaning rod, 22 and 38 and 44 brushes and some cleaning patches and oil maybe some gun snakes in those 3 calibers they work great and fast. enjoy your new treasures.

SightNSqueeze · 11-06-2009, 02:39 PM

Your .44 magnum Ruger Redhawk was Ruger's answer to the big N-Frame .44 magnum Smith & Wesson Model 29. It is rumored that the famous Elmer Keith, who among being many things was a noted six-gun shooter and gun writer, pressed Ruger to compete with Smith & Wesson in the creation of the large frame Ruger Redhawk. Keith was certainly instrumental in the creation of the .44 magnum after he blew out a number of .44 special Colt SAA revolvers working up the .44 special into some sort of .44 [+P]. A .44 “magnum” revolver was the obvious next step. The good news too is that you can keep on shooting .44 specials instead of more expensive .44 magnums. Definitely save your brass. If you don't reload now, you probably will later.

big boomer · 11-06-2009, 02:39 PM

as for grips you might want to get the rubber type you can find grips online or have a gun smith or gun shop help you out. CDNN always has grips cheap check them out on line. PS i own 2 similar colts (a colt army and police positive) a Ruger redhawk and have owned the 22 colt so I under stand what you have there.

GlockMeister · 11-06-2009, 02:49 PM

To help you keep them rust free I suggest and recommend that you buy yourself several silicone treated gun and reel clothes and anytime you handle them and or maybe once a month wipe them down with this cloth and make sure to not let your hand or fingers be the least to touch your firearms and you should be fine. Also, it isn't a bad idea to take each one every other month or so and inspect it field strip it and lube if necessary. Especially if they haven't been or aren't being used. Then, wipe it down with that silicone treated cloth.

If you keep them in a closed container such as a safe or other type lock box I also suggest and recommend you invest in either something to remove humidity from within where you keep them such as a dehumidifying rod if one like that is needed or desiccant packets for smaller sized storage areas.

G3MINI · 11-06-2009, 04:12 PM

Wow, thanks for the quick responses. Took the advice given here and bought a cleaning kit, gun oil, additional cleaning patches, Hoppo 9 cleaning solvent (I know it wasn't recommended but it was cheap), plus the silicon cloth. All of that was a lot cheaper than I expected. Would you guys recommend getting snap caps or are spent cartridges just as good. My only fear would be mistakenly chambering a live round rather than a spent one.

The pistols all came with safes so I'm good there and a large lockable briefcase of ammo so I'm good there too. They all have silica packets in the safes but I get enough of those from work that it won't be a problem.

The colts both have what I assume to be the original holsters. They have colt logos on the snaps but they are heavily coated with blue copper oxidation. It flakes off and gets every where. the leather is fairly cracked too. Are the holsters worth anything or would it be ok to just replace them. (kind of like collectible toys still in package vs. out of the package)

I never knew my uncle was such a fanatic. Shame to learn it after he's gone.

sea_chicken1 · 11-06-2009, 05:59 PM

I'm very fond of old colts but you have yourself a very nice Ruger Redhawk there as well.

Da Mc · 11-09-2009, 05:50 PM

Getting snap caps confused with live rounds has to be a deliberate action because of the differences in them. The snap caps I have seen are made of plastic and many of them are transparent so you can see the spring mechanism in it. The bullet part is usually red so it is distinguishable from lead or copper. The snap cap is not a live round therefore does substanacially differ in weight from a live round. The snap cap should be used because it has a spring mechanism in it that simulates the resistance of a primer. When you use a spent cartridge the primer is already dented from the firing pin. The next time the hammer is dropped it encounters no resistance that it was meant for. Similar to dry firing a gun which over a prolonged period of time could cause damage to the firing pin. Does this help?

TXplt · 11-09-2009, 09:45 PM

It's tough to ever go wrong with Hoppe's #9 -- great stuff. CLP "Break Free" is also great stuff--and you can spray it as a solvent to clean out the innards if you take off the grips and have some patience (although some do not advocate this on revolvers) -- it might take a while to get the gunk out depending on what's been done to the revolver but this stuff has worked for me. Many commercial degreasers specifically made for guns (as well as carb cleaner which some use as well) are available -- I tend to shy away from these on "classics" but do use on some of my newer working guns (bottom line is I don't use them until I'm sure what they do). The Otis cleaning kit works as well as any (but you can also get bore snakes, and all kinds of other stuff varying in price) -- key is to get a good brass brush, some Hoppes, and some patches (with a patch eyelet holder) as well as a brass type toothbrush (or similar) to clean around the forcing cone and top strap. You can get any kind of cleaning kit, but I kind of like the Otis because it has the steel cables covered in plastic which clean but don't scratch. Be particularly careful around the muzzle crown area when you clean -- it's best also to clean from back to front (i.e. forcing cone to muzzle) but it's not always possible. And I use the Sentry Tuf-Cloth as a wipe-off kind of thing for rust prevention.

Although I'll give the standard disclaimer anything should be checked out by a gunsmith before shooting for latent defects, if properly maintained the Ruger should be as safe as anything and fine to shoot with any normal factory .44 special or Magnum rounds (Ruger makes very strong guns). I'd definitely have the Colts checked out before firing (IF firing) and definitely stick with standard pressure loads for it.

I actually like the Colt .38 the best (and the bluing could be restored but I'd make sure to get a good quality bluer to do it -- someone I'm sure will chime in with a suggestion). Many people make replacement grips (or can do custom work) but I'd look at the aforementioned suggestions.

Only 1 modern revolver (that I know of) has a bona-fide safety (other than locking devices on newer firearms which all involve some type of key and type of locking device either internally or on the hammer in the case of Taurus) and that is the Smith model 40/42 series which has a grip safety. Patterned after the older "lemon squeezer" the model 40 (the 42 is the alloy frame version of it) has a grip safety which is depressed when the gun is held normally -- analogous to the grip safety on a 1911 -- and if held with a proper firm grip the trigger can be depressed. None of the 3 revolvers you have have a mechanical safety.

I don't know much about the Single Action but if patterned after similar SA's of the time period these MUST be carried with the hammer on an EMPTY chamber--only the newer guns like the Ruger single-six and the like (which employ a transfer bar ignition system) are safe to carry with all 6 chambers loaded.

I believe the .38 has a hammer block but don't know enough about it to comment if it would pass a drop test or is safe with a round in the chamber under the hammer. I WOULD NOT use "+P" 's in it, and would stick with mild standard pressure rounds if an gunsmith says it is OK.

The Ruger employs a Transfer Bar ignition system in which the hammer itself NEVER hits the firing pin (and when down the hammer actually rests on the frame). Taurus and Charter Arms employ the same on several of their modern revolvers and it is a great system. When the trigger is fully depressed the transfer bar "completes the circuit" and moves up to allow the hammer to hit the firing pin. As such not only is the gun safe to carry with all 6 chambers loaded but also won't fire without the trigger being depressed (no, don't tempt fate by acting irresponsibly with muzzle position or unsafely handling ANY gun -- irregarldess of ANY safety devices ANY gun must ALWAYS be safely handled and the trigger NEVER depressed in any way when if it went "bang" it could hurt someone -- ALWAYS keep the gun pointed in a safe direction when handling; especially when actuating the trigger in any way).

Anyway, happy shooting to you -- you have some nice guns there.