how can you tell if a used gun is in good shape

[seagullslayer1]

im going to gander at the pawnshops tomorow and i was wondering how you tell whether or not theyre riping you off ill be looking at .223's

[Outriderdark]

Take a friend who knows.
There are so many things to look for you really only get that kind of education when someone can show you.
Or do what I did when I first started....buy stuff that ends up being....craptacular....then sell it and get something else.
That method costs way too much money, though.
And look at ALOT of guns. New ones, old ones cheap ones, expensive ones - after a while you start seeing what you're looking for.

[BattleRifleG3]

I doubt I'll be buying a used gun for high accuracy. You can get some pretty accurate stuff pretty inexpensively. For 223 varminting and target shooting, I can't think of anything wrong with the Savage/Stevens offerings.

[Jay]

I keep a small gunsmiths' tool kit in my truck.When I see something I'm interested in, I ask if I can see it. If the guy says yes, I go get the tool kit. The look on the guy's face when I start to take it apart, will tell me almost all I need to know.

[Big Dog]

I wouldn't dismantle a feller's gun without his approval - good way to buy an enemy. But, I have certainly pulled bolts and slides, after asking. I carry a good mini light with fiberoptic, to check the bores. A good light will show up rust and reblueing too.
Check the action to stock fit - does it wobble? Pass on it.
On an AR15, make sure the upper doesn't wobble on the lower.
I like to check the sight alignment on rifles too. If the front or rear is all the way to one side - pass! A tight group is useless if it isn't well-centered.
I also check ergonomics - does it fit ME? Do I fit it? Example, I like FAL rifles - they don't like me. My noggin doesn't fit the FAL stock!
My trigger finger is crooked too - many triggerguards rub me raw.
It's all in the details!

III. Firearms Information by Type
B. Revolvers
3. "What to Look for in Buying a Revolver"

By Kirk Hayes (hays@SSD.intel.com)

Well, here's a list of some things I look for when buying a used
revolver. I collect S&W revolvers, so it is, somewhat, specific to
S&W.

However, most of this applies to any revolver.

I've got 20 years experience buying used revolvers, and, yes, I've
bought a dud or twenty over the years. Remember that it is rarely
worthwhile to buy a damaged gun, thinking you'll get it fixed.
It's cheaper to buy new than to buy damaged.

On the other hand, easily repaired damage can be used as a
negotiating point.

Finally, don't be afraid to walk away - let someone else buy the
bad ones.

Before you start, make sure the weapon is unloaded, and ask
permission to dry-fire it. Observe all safety rules.

1. Is the yoke bent?

Look at the yoke (aka "crane") when the cylinder is in the closed
position. The gap between the frame and the yolk should be very
narrow, and the same width top to bottom.

A bent yoke can be caused by a number of things, the most common of
which is "flipping" the cylinder closed, as seen in the movies.

A bent yolk can be fixed, but it is rarely worthwhile.

2. Look at the hole in the frame through which the bolt extends.
Is it burred or oversized?

Again, can be fixed, is not usually worthwhile.

3. Look at the topstrap above the forcing cone. Is it flame cut
excessively?

I regard flame cutting that is more than 2/3 the width of the
topstrap as excessive.

4. Look at the firing pin hole. Is it peened out?

This is a minor repair if not too excessive, and not repaired
before.

5. Point the weapon in a safe direction. Cock the hammer, and,
with your finger off the trigger, press forward on the hammer spur.

If the hammer falls, put the gun down and walk away.

6. Repeat the following for each chamber.

1. Cock the gun using the hammer, slowly. Does the bolt
lock up when the hammer goes to full cock?
2. Is the cylinder gap excessive (take feeler gauges)? Is
it the same for each chamber.
3. Is there excessive slop fore-and-aft?
4. Does the hammer move to the rear any further as the
trigger is pulled?
5. Is the trigger pull identical on each cylinder?

7. Repeat six (6) while holding a thumb lightly against the
cylinder.

8. Repeat the following for each chamber.

1. Cock the gun using the trigger, slowly. Does the bolt
lock up before the hammer falls?
2. Is the trigger pull identical on each cylinder?

9. Repeat step eight (8) with the revolver inverted. This will
get you strange looks, many times, but shows up problems that might
otherwise be missed.

10. Repeat step eight (8) with a thumb riding lightly on the
cylinder.

11. Is the revolver cylinder scored excessively between the bolt
holes?

12. Is the cylinder star damaged in any way? Pay particular
attention to the cams the hand pushes on. Look at the hand for
damage. Push the ejector rod as far back as it will go - did it
bind, or is it bent? Are the star locator pins present and
unbent/unbroken? Is the knurling on the ejector rod unblemished?

13. If you are lucky enough to have a timing rod, which is a piece
of precision-ground steel that will fit down the bore, check to be
sure each chamber aligns with the bore, cocking the hammer to lock
the cylinder with the bolt.

14. Look at the sideplate screws. If burred, walk away unless you
feel lucky.

I generally ask, if the screws are burred, for the sideplate to be
removed, but this is an entire subject area by itself...

15. Run your thumb and forefinger down the barrel - you're looking
for bumps and rings.

16. Look down the bore. Use a borescope if you have it, a piece
of white cloth or your thumbnail at the recoil plate, whatever
you've got to get light in the bore. Be very suspicious if the
bore is dirty, as a dirty bore can cover a multitude of sins. If
it is dirty, ask to have it cleaned.

Looks for pits, rust, rings, etc.

Look at the forcing cone for splits and erosion.

17. Examine the chambers for damage - flame cutting, bulges
(particularly under the bolt holes), dents, corrosion.

18. Examine the sights for damage - look for "square" with the
rest of the gun.

19. Examine the firing pin tip. A chipped one can be repaired,
easily.

20. Examine the finish, markings, etc. A non-even surface,
rounded edges where they should be sharp, or washed out markings
can be evidence of a refinished gun. Ask.

21. I'm sure I've forgotten something, so feel free to contribute,
everybody...

Gun shows are a major source of bargains, but there are a couple of cautions: First, don’t think that you’re going to encounter some poor oaf who has no idea of the value of what he’s selling. At every show I’ve ever been to, each dealer knew exactly how much his stuff was worth. Second, if you happen to get stuck with a lemon, you are well and truly stuck. A gun store is going to be there the next day, as will the websites that sell used guns. But the guy at the show who took your cash will have vanished, never to be seen again.
Buyer Beware



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I am very cautious about what I buy and from whom. This is true of just about anyone who invests in used rifles and knows what he’s doing. You can go online and find lots of websites selling used guns; maybe they’re good, maybe they’re not. I like to know the guy I buy from and put my hands on the gun before I even consider taking out my wallet. If you want to expand your boundaries, consider Cabela’s Gun Libraries, located in the stores. If you can’t trust Cabela’s, who can you trust? There is also an auction house called Amoskeag Auction in Manchester, New Hampshire, that specializes in selling firearms from estates. They are honest, efficient, and a pleasure to deal with (www.amoskeag-auction.com).
10 Things You Don’t Want to See



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[1] A dirty bore, or a bore with copper streaks. Who knows what lies beneath?

[2] Chips or dings at the muzzle. They ruin accuracy, and the barrel must be recrowned.

[3] Rust, anywhere, in any amount. Inexcusable.

[4] Cracks in the stock.

[5] Pits in the bolt face. These come from blown primers, which means that someone was firing injudicious handloads in the rifle.

[6] A rifle that fires when the bolt is slammed forward and down. There’s not enough sear engagement, which is dangerous.

[7] A trigger that is heavy, creepy, or light, or shows signs of having been tampered with.

[8] A rifle that will fire when you cock it, put it on safe, pull the trigger, and then throw the safety to the off position.

[9] A chamber that is worn out of round. This comes from the poor use of a cleaning rod and means the rifle will not shoot accurately.

[10] Rifling that’s scorched toward the rear of the barrel. The gun is near the end of its useful life.

from http://www.fieldandstream.com/fields...141593,00.html