What's wrong with tru oil

Big Tool · 03-07-2008, 12:29 PM

I've read numerous post on different bashing the hell out of tru oil, but nobody really gives a decent reason as to why other than the finish being shiny, but it comes with directions on how to give it a low gloss sheen also, so that dosen't seem like a valid reason.
I've used blo, tung oil, poly, and tru oil, and compared to the others tru oil gives by far the bet looking finish. It looks just like blo except it dosen't take a week to dry. I really like the finish blo was giving, but after the 1st coat it took forever to dry, "Mississippi humidity" Tru oil is dry to the touch in a bout 4-6hours from what i've seen.

lefty o · 03-07-2008, 12:58 PM

tru oil is a great product. used properly, you can get a dull looking finish, or work it all the way up so it looks like you poured a sheet of glass over the stock.

Asphalt Cowboy · 03-07-2008, 09:55 PM

My only gripe with True Oil is that it contains a filler, not to be confused with sealer. Most fillers are silica, finely ground glass, which fills the pores of the wood and adds surface strength to the wood. If you are doing a new stock and intend to have it checkered you need to tell the checkerer what it has been finished with.

billy · 03-07-2008, 09:58 PM

i use it

Mooseman684 · 03-07-2008, 10:01 PM

I prefer Tol Oil to all of them...

jerry · 03-07-2008, 10:06 PM

Iv'e finished two guns with great results. getting ready to work on a project with an orphan 870 my buddy brought home

irish murphy · 03-07-2008, 10:32 PM

I have finished a few of my rifles with birchwood caseys true oil.It is great stuff,i dont like shiney stocks.I have tried tung oil and didnt like the shine much.But the one mooseman has mentioned has brought back something a mate told me awhile ago.Just not sure if it is the same stuff.I will ask him.His stocks came up awesome.

Here is a little miroku 22 i fixed up for a mate years ago.The stock was varnished from the factory and locked terrible

Not great pics but gives you the idea anyway.

GlockMeister · 03-07-2008, 10:43 PM

Irish, is that the one you bought and you refinished that was in pretty bad shape, rusted up and all? Or is this yet another different one? Which ever one it is, I like the finish on the wood. Has a little bit of character in it / to it.

As for the complaints you heard on other sites or wherever, my thinking is they didn't like it simply because they didn't know how to and or couldn't use it properly. Or, they just didn't take their time and read the instructions. lol Anything I've ever seen finished with it has always looked great. The finish on the picture Irish posted says it all...

irish murphy · 03-07-2008, 10:52 PM

The rusty one i did up was a 94 winchester 30/30 mate,this one was done years ago.Its a miroku ml22.I am going to get hold of this or the browning it is copied from.Miroku actually make the brownings under contract.I fired this one at the range after i had worked on it.A very accurate little levergun.They are still pulling good money over here to.Anywhere from $450 to $600aud.I like the lever throw,very short.You can cycle these with the tips of a couple fingers and keep the sight picture through rapid fire.

Shaun · 03-07-2008, 11:14 PM

typically I use Formbies but have used Tru Oil and I consider them interchangable

GlockMeister · 03-07-2008, 11:17 PM

That's right, it was a Winchester. I remember now. In fact it was a Buffalo Bill Commemorative or something wasn't it? And had I taken a closer look at the lever/action rather then focus in on the wood, I'd of noticed the lever is a tad bit different then that of a Winny.

Is the fact that the trigger comes out with the lever during chambering something that's normal for this brand? Still a decent looking rifle anyhow. And thanks for the reminder and pointing out not only it's different, but what brand/model.

irish murphy · 03-07-2008, 11:32 PM

To tell you the honest truth i would rather a miroku/browning 22lr lever gun than any winchester 94.If i get another levergun in big calibre it will be a marlin.The lever comes down with the trigger group attached to it.So no squashed fingers and very fast cycling of lever.Hold 15 rounds and when mounted with a scope dealy on moving bunnies and cats.

03-07-2008, 12:29 PM	#1
Big Tool Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: MS Posts: 637	What's wrong with tru oil I've read numerous post on different bashing the hell out of tru oil, but nobody really gives a decent reason as to why other than the finish being shiny, but it comes with directions on how to give it a low gloss sheen also, so that dosen't seem like a valid reason. I've used blo, tung oil, poly, and tru oil, and compared to the others tru oil gives by far the bet looking finish. It looks just like blo except it dosen't take a week to dry. I really like the finish blo was giving, but after the 1st coat it took forever to dry, "Mississippi humidity" Tru oil is dry to the touch in a bout 4-6hours from what i've seen.

03-07-2008, 09:58 PM	#4
billy spiritual counselor Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: a secret lab on the shores of lake titicaca Posts: 14,230 Images: 9 Blog Entries: 154	i use it __________________ "I would never die for my beliefs because what if I'm wrong?"- Bertrand Russell

03-07-2008, 10:01 PM	#5
Mooseman684 Super Moderator Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Alaska Wilderness Posts: 10,524 Images: 2	I prefer Tol Oil to all of them... __________________ You know you might be facing your doom,when all you get is a click when you're expecting a BOOM!

03-07-2008, 10:43 PM	#8
GlockMeister Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Northern Illinois Posts: 6,256	Irish, is that the one you bought and you refinished that was in pretty bad shape, rusted up and all? Or is this yet another different one? Which ever one it is, I like the finish on the wood. Has a little bit of character in it / to it. As for the complaints you heard on other sites or wherever, my thinking is they didn't like it simply because they didn't know how to and or couldn't use it properly. Or, they just didn't take their time and read the instructions. lol Anything I've ever seen finished with it has always looked great. The finish on the picture Irish posted says it all... __________________ I'd rather be tried by 12 than carried by 6!

03-07-2008, 11:14 PM	#10
Shaun Super Moderator Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Nashville, TN Posts: 8,619 Images: 1	typically I use Formbies but have used Tru Oil and I consider them interchangable __________________ "Homeland Security is the responsibility of an armed citizen" ME http://webpages.charter.net/s.s.v/

03-07-2008, 12:58 PM	#2
lefty o Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: mn Posts: 5,103	tru oil is a great product. used properly, you can get a dull looking finish, or work it all the way up so it looks like you poured a sheet of glass over the stock.

03-07-2008, 09:55 PM	#3
Asphalt Cowboy Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: A one horse town in E.Kansas. Posts: 353	My only gripe with True Oil is that it contains a filler, not to be confused with sealer. Most fillers are silica, finely ground glass, which fills the pores of the wood and adds surface strength to the wood. If you are doing a new stock and intend to have it checkered you need to tell the checkerer what it has been finished with.

03-07-2008, 10:06 PM	#6
jerry Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Posts: 11,193 Images: 9 Blog Entries: 1	Iv'e finished two guns with great results. getting ready to work on a project with an orphan 870 my buddy brought home

03-07-2008, 10:32 PM	#7
irish murphy Banned Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Canberra,Australia Posts: 1,028 Blog Entries: 5	I have finished a few of my rifles with birchwood caseys true oil.It is great stuff,i dont like shiney stocks.I have tried tung oil and didnt like the shine much.But the one mooseman has mentioned has brought back something a mate told me awhile ago.Just not sure if it is the same stuff.I will ask him.His stocks came up awesome. Here is a little miroku 22 i fixed up for a mate years ago.The stock was varnished from the factory and locked terrible Not great pics but gives you the idea anyway.

03-07-2008, 10:52 PM	#9
irish murphy Banned Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Canberra,Australia Posts: 1,028 Blog Entries: 5	The rusty one i did up was a 94 winchester 30/30 mate,this one was done years ago.Its a miroku ml22.I am going to get hold of this or the browning it is copied from.Miroku actually make the brownings under contract.I fired this one at the range after i had worked on it.A very accurate little levergun.They are still pulling good money over here to.Anywhere from $450 to $600aud.I like the lever throw,very short.You can cycle these with the tips of a couple fingers and keep the sight picture through rapid fire.

03-07-2008, 11:17 PM	#11
GlockMeister Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Northern Illinois Posts: 6,256	That's right, it was a Winchester. I remember now. In fact it was a Buffalo Bill Commemorative or something wasn't it? And had I taken a closer look at the lever/action rather then focus in on the wood, I'd of noticed the lever is a tad bit different then that of a Winny. Is the fact that the trigger comes out with the lever during chambering something that's normal for this brand? Still a decent looking rifle anyhow. And thanks for the reminder and pointing out not only it's different, but what brand/model. __________________ I'd rather be tried by 12 than carried by 6!

03-07-2008, 11:32 PM	#12
irish murphy Banned Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Canberra,Australia Posts: 1,028 Blog Entries: 5	To tell you the honest truth i would rather a miroku/browning 22lr lever gun than any winchester 94.If i get another levergun in big calibre it will be a marlin.The lever comes down with the trigger group attached to it.So no squashed fingers and very fast cycling of lever.Hold 15 rounds and when mounted with a scope dealy on moving bunnies and cats.