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Old 05-11-2012, 08:40 AM   #1
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Cold Bluing

What are your thoughts on cold bluing compared to standard bluing as far as durability is concerned. Also who makes the best Cold Bluing product that most anyone can use.

I am wanting to blue a few of my beater rifles and am not really wanting to drop hundreds on bluing them. I am looking for an affordable long lasting finish that looks half way decent. I am not really wanting to go the painting method (duracoat or similar).

What do you all have experience with and what has worked or not worked for you?

Thanks.
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Old 05-11-2012, 09:15 AM   #2
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Quote:       Originally Posted by Palladin8 View Post
What are your thoughts on cold bluing compared to standard bluing as far as durability is concerned. Also who makes the best Cold Bluing product that most anyone can use.

I am wanting to blue a few of my beater rifles and am not really wanting to drop hundreds on bluing them. I am looking for an affordable long lasting finish that looks half way decent. I am not really wanting to go the painting method (duracoat or similar).

What do you all have experience with and what has worked or not worked for you?

Thanks.
I've done the Birchwood Casey system on my model 94 Winchester. It came out fairly good. Here's more on that system: Birchwood Casey - Tru Temp®

The feeding tube blued just fine but I learned that the alloy steel in the receiver of the model 94 Winchester would not take bluing other than by the "rust blueing" system. Currently I'm having the entire gun reblued by the rust blueing system by fellow G&G member Steve Bowers. I'm anxious to see the results.
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Old 05-11-2012, 09:29 AM   #3
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I concur with Oxford. Some steels do better than others, and initially they might look pretty good. In the long run it should be consider a temporary solution to a bigger problem.
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Old 05-11-2012, 09:36 AM   #4
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If you want instructions for using Birchwood Casey you have to get them online. They don't come packaged with the products. But they are great at answering emails fairly quickly. I just ordered a bottle of Brass Black and there was nothing with it other than saying it was known to cause cancer.
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Old 05-11-2012, 10:23 AM   #5
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Try the Brownell's web site and search "cold blue." They sell all of the brands I've heard of and there are plenty of reviews to help guide you. I've tried most of them and always go back to Oxpho Blue or 44/40.

But let's face it, cold blue isn't much more durable than a permanant marker so keep it well oiled after your done.

dz
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Old 05-11-2012, 11:03 AM   #6
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Quote:       Originally Posted by dogzebra View Post
Try the Brownell's web site and search "cold blue." They sell all of the brands I've heard of and there are plenty of reviews to help guide you. I've tried most of them and always go back to Oxpho Blue or 44/40.

But let's face it, cold blue isn't much more durable than a permanant marker so keep it well oiled after your done.

dz
This is what I was wanting to hear. If it isn't that much better than a marker than maybe I will explore other options. I don't want to keep having to touch up something every time I take it out.

Thanks for all the replies.
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Old 05-11-2012, 04:15 PM   #7
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Birchwood Casey works pretty well. I have some instructions on how I used it in this thread: An old H&R 732
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Old 05-11-2012, 04:59 PM   #8
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Cold blue is nothing more that dye it will not hold up to use, get the gun hot blued it is the best way to go.
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Old 05-11-2012, 08:31 PM   #9
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fyi, heat the metal before application.
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Old 05-13-2012, 09:01 PM   #10
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Basically, no cold blue product can match a hot blue job when it comes to durability or good looks. However, I've found Brownells Oxpho Blue and Blue Wonder's cold blue to be fairly durable and more often than not, provide a decent looking blue job. But as someone else wrote, depends on the metal you are trying to blue. Been my experience you can get a decent cold blue finish on a barrel most of the time. But on the receiver its a 50-50 chance of it takeing a decent finish. Barrel metal is softer and takes cold blue better.
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Old 06-03-2012, 09:37 AM   #11
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Cold Blue

I've 'cold blued' a few guns over the years. I didn't have trouble until lately. I guess it's the difference in the metals. And, yes, heating the barrel in the oven or with hair dryer, etc. does help a lot. I have an old Stevens .410 that my wife gave me for Christmas, 1968. A 'relative' borrowed it and really messed it up. It was maybe 1 or 2 years old. I sanded the stock and used boiled linseed oil on it. It is still in fair shape considering that it's been about 40 years. I sanded the barrel to bare metal, cleaned it with alcohol, and applied the bluing. After a minute or so, I rinsed it and used steel wool on it, just enough to shine it. I think that I applied the bluing a second time. It looked really nice until it was left in a corner by a window and got wet. When I discovered it, I reblued it again. This was about 1976. A few weeks ago, I noticed that the 'blue' was more 'brown'. I was rebluing an old .20 gauge shottie, so I sanded the .410 and applied 2 coats of bluing to it. These are before and after pics.
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Old 06-03-2012, 09:50 AM   #12
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Some metal surfaces will not cold blue

There are various alloys and hardnesses of alloys that do not cold blue.

I would look into other coatings on the market for most guns.
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Old 06-04-2012, 09:04 AM   #13
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My friend let me borrow his Birchwood casey bluing kit to try out. I wanted to experiment with it before I attempted to finish a nicer rifle. I pulled out the old Savage 340c that I bought several years ago for a project gun. Took it apart and cleaned it up really good and tried to prep it the best I could. I applied several coats of the bluing on it and it turned out so so. I had one area that streaked a little bit but not to bad. I will try and post a pic or two later.
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Old 06-04-2012, 09:13 AM   #14
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44/40 is the best for cold blue. Heat the metal parts first. For the barrel, I use a plumbers torch, and run the flame over the barrel a few times.
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Old 06-04-2012, 09:52 PM   #15
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Quote:       Originally Posted by Palladin8 View Post
What are your thoughts on cold bluing compared to standard bluing as far as durability is concerned. Also who makes the best Cold Bluing product that most anyone can use.

I am wanting to blue a few of my beater rifles and am not really wanting to drop hundreds on bluing them. I am looking for an affordable long lasting finish that looks half way decent. I am not really wanting to go the painting method (duracoat or similar).

What do you all have experience with and what has worked or not worked for you?

Thanks.
You and everybody else. LOL

IMHO cold blue leaves me cold. I have never tried anything that wouldn't rub off after a few trips to the woods. The only thing that works besides hot bath bluing is rust bluing but that is almost more difficult than the hot blue route.
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Old 06-04-2012, 11:35 PM   #16
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I have an SKS that had light pitting/tiny rust on the bolt carrier. I decided to try birchwood cold bluing on it and am happy with the way it came out. It looks more unique now too.
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Old 06-05-2012, 01:11 PM   #17
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Quote:       Originally Posted by Fisch View Post
I have an SKS that had light pitting/tiny rust on the bolt carrier. I decided to try birchwood cold bluing on it and am happy with the way it came out. It looks more unique now too.
I did this also, works well for me too.
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