How can you tell when brass is past its prime? Specifically, straight handgun brass like 9mm and .38SPL. I know how to look for cracks and damage near the head, but aside from physical deformities, can I just assume that I can reload the same brass infinitely? I don't "do" hot loads, but who knows what the guys at the range are doing that's dropping their brass. Just looking for some input. Thanks! --/J
I bought 500 pieces of brass about 9 years ago. This stuff has been fired maybe 10 times each, some of it maybe more. It's starting to split, it's time to replace it. In a high power rifle I try not to use brass more than 4 times.
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Aim real good we're nearly out of ammo.
Here is a site with a few tips. Make sure you get some calipers to measure your cases with. Also keep track of how many times you had to trim your cases. That extra length didn't just grow there. lol The gym clip test is good too. Shakey Pete's Shootin' Shack: Handloading: Case Inspection and Prep.
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For info purposes only, use it at your own risk. JFKimmons and G&G aren't liable for it's misuse.
with pistol brass, the casemouth will crack before you have to worry about anything else. if it cracks, toss it. most loading manuals will show you nice pictures of what to look for before your brass fails.
with pistol brass, the casemouth will crack before you have to worry about anything else. if it cracks, toss it. most loading manuals will show you nice pictures of what to look for before your brass fails.
Rifle brass cracks in the neck, sometimes in the shoulder. My 44-40's tend to crack in the case body.
Pistol brass Straight sided---- wheither used in a rifle or pistol/revolver will usually show cracks starting at the neck Rifle brass when a "shiney" ring appears around and just below the head of the case. This goes for pistol brass also, but usually the neck of the case will develop cracks first. You may also notice a crack in the middle of the case, this rare but it does happen.
Here is a site with a few tips. Make sure you get some calipers to measure your cases with. Also keep track of how many times you had to trim your cases. That extra length didn't just grow there. lol The gym clip test is good too. Shakey Pete's Shootin' Shack: Handloading: Case Inspection and Prep.
From what I've read or been reading in the books, the one sure way to find out is, before you even go to load then inspect each and every one to be sure. The books had/have some pictures and showed some signs and or indicators. What got my attention, was how you can think the cause can be from over use but instead could be from say improper headspace or some other cause. In this aspect, and truthfully in many others, I've found the books that many here suggested, to be invaluable.
Thanks for the link, to a newbie reloader such as myself, they're great. Good thread/post/question as well Airweight38. Thanks!
__________________ "My next door neighbors two dogs have created more shovel ready jobs then Obama has." - Gary Johnson
How many of you guys use or have even done, or tried the annealing process yourselves? Seems to me you'd have to be pretty experienced in both reloading and metallurgy before even beginning to attempt it?
__________________ "My next door neighbors two dogs have created more shovel ready jobs then Obama has." - Gary Johnson
Well I guess no one else will take this. I have. I don't do it very often just when my brass feels a little different. It feels different when it gets work hardened. It isn't as smooth. I follow the directions. Put the brass in a pan of water. Take a propane torch hold it directly over the case. When the brass turns a light blue I take the torch off. Some people tip the case over and quench the brass. I prefer to let it cool slowly. I don't know if it makes a difference. The way I was trained to anneal metal was to slowly bring it up to the annealing temp, then let it cool slowly. I'm sure someone will say you need to quench the brass.
How many of you guys use or have even done, or tried the annealing process yourselves? Seems to me you'd have to be pretty experienced in both reloading and metallurgy before even beginning to attempt it?
It's a very easy process for someone to do. I've done it fairly often but unlike Jimkin, I quench! Works for me so why change!
How to tell when brass is no longer safe to load 
