What every Newbie Reloader must know

jimkim · 01-02-2009, 07:18 PM

How to reload a cartridge step by step.
Quick Reference Reloading Guide

http://www.three-peaks.net/reload.htm

jimkim · 01-03-2009, 02:43 AM

Obsolete parts supplier. Herter's, Lyman Tru-line Jr, etc...
Vega Tool and Gun Book Company

The Ranch Dog method of lubing cast rifle bullets.
http://www.marlinowners.com/forums/i...c,27078.0.html

Lee FAQ: http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi/faq/...231067257.3249

jimkim · 01-04-2009, 06:57 AM

Stuck case removal. reloading2

I just hammer it out with the pin if I'm using Lee dies.

This is what Lee recommends: You can easily remove the case yourself, loosen but do not remove the decapper clamp with a 3/4 and 1/2 wrench. Then pound on the end of the decapper rod with a 3/16 drift punch, and use a heavy hammer for best results. You can leave the die in the press for this operation.

jimkim · 01-04-2009, 07:10 AM

Bullet Weight not Found in Manuals
Lee:
If the bullet weight you wish to load is not found in your favorite manual, it is safe to use loads listed for a heavier bullet weight and find a load for the powder you have. Using that load with the lighter bullet simply reduces the pressure, but the velocity remains approximately the same.

Speer:
The physics of loading cartridges indicates that a heavier bullet will build pressures faster than a lighter bullet owing to its mass. The greater mass of the heavier bullet resists change (acceleration) more than a lighter mass so the powder charges for the heavier bullet will nearly always be lower than those for the lighter bullet of the same construction. This indicates that, without other data to follow, the heavier bullet data can be used as a starting point for the lighter bullet.

jimkim · 01-04-2009, 07:39 AM

Wipe the lube off of your cartridges when your done.

Sierra Bullets FAQ:

Question
I don't want to waste my time wiping all the sizing lube off my cases after the resizing operation, but I've been told not to tumble loaded ammunition. Won't some lubrication help the cartridge chamber more easily? What happens if it is not removed before shooting?

Answer
Upon ignition, the case expands in all directions, with the case walls tightly gripping the chamber. Almost instantly, the case relaxes its grip on the chamber walls as the pressure starts to drop, allowing the case to be extracted. If the cartridge were lubricated, the case wouldn't be able to grip the chamber walls, allowing it to slam back sharply against the bolt face. In extreme examples, this force, called "bolt thrust," can even damage a firearm. For what it's worth, the British used to use lubricated cartridges to proof test a firearm, rather than the so called "blue pill" loads used here in the US. Wipe those cases, and make sure your chamber stays clean and dry!

jimkim · 01-05-2009, 06:57 AM

ED Harris articles.

CAST BULLET LOADS FOR MILITARY RIFLES

Cast bullets can make shooting that surplus rifle easy and economical.
And basic data works for many different guns.

BY C.E. Harris

Cast bullet loads usually give a more useful zero at practical field ranges with military battle sights than do full power loads. Nothing is more frustrating than a military rifle that shoots a foot high at 100 yards with surplus ammo when the sight is as low as it will go! Do not use inert fillers (Dacron or kapok) to take up excess empty space in the case. This was once common practice, but it raises chamber pressure and under certain conditions contributes to chamber ringing. If a particular load will not work well without a filler, the powder is not suitable for those conditions of loading. Four load classifications from Mattern (1932) cover all uses for the cast bullet military rifle. I worked up equivalent charges to obtain the desired velocity ranges with modern powders, which provide a sound basis for loading cast bullets in any post-1898 military rifle from 7mm to 8mm:

1. 125 grain plain based "small game/gallery" 900-1000 f.p.s., 5 grains of Bullseye or equivalent.

2. 150 grain plain based "100-yard target/small game", 1050-1250 f.p.s., 7 grains of Bullseye or equivalent.

3. 170-180 grain gas checked "200 yard target", 1500-1600 f.p.s., 16 grains of Hercules #2400 or equivalent.

4. 180-200 grain gas-checked "deer/600 yard target", 1750-1850 f.p.s., 26 grains of RL-7 or equivalent.

None of these loads are maximum when used in full-sized rifle cases such as the 30-40 Krag, .303 British, 7.65 Argentine, 7.7 Jap, 7.62x54R Russian , or 30-06. They can be used as basic load data in most modern military rifles of 7mm or larger, with a standard weight cast bullet for the caliber, such as 140-170 grains in the 7x57, 150-180 grains in the .30 calibers, and 150-190 grains in the 8mm. For bores smaller than 7mm, consult published data.

The Small Game or Gallery" Load

The 110-115 grain bullets intended for the .30 carbine and .32-20 Winchester, such as the Lyman #3118, #311008, #311359, or #311316 are not as accurate as heavier ones like the #311291. There isn't a readily available .30 caliber cast small game bullet of the proper 125-130 grain weight. LBT makes a 130 grain flat-nosed gas-check bullet for the .32 H&R Magnum which is ideal for this purpose. I recommend it highly, particularly if you own a .32 revolver.

The "100 Yard Target and Small Game" Load

I use Mattern's plain-based "100 yard target load" to use up my minor visual defect culls for offhand and rapid-fire 100 yard practice. I substitute my usual gas-checked bullets, but without the gas-check. I started doing this in 1963 with the Lyman #311291. Today I use the Lee .312-155-2R, or the similar tumble-lubed design TL.312-160-2R. Most of my rifle shooting is done with these two basic designs.

Bullets I intend for plain based loads are blunted using a flat-nosed top punch in my lubricator, providing a 1/8" flat which makes them more effective on small game and clearly distinguishes them from my heavier gas-checked loads. This makes more sense to me than casting different bullets.

Bullet preparation is easy. I visually inspect each run of bullets and throw those with gross defects into the scrap box for remelting. Bullets with minor visual defects are tumble-lubed in Lee Liquid Alox without sizing, and are used for plain base plinkers. Bullets which are visually perfect are weighed and sorted into groups of +/- 0.5 grain for use in 200 yard matches. Gas checks are pressed onto bullet bases by hand prior to running into the lubricator-sizer. For gas-check bullets loaded without the gas- checks, for cases like the .303 British, 7.62 NATO, 7.62x54R Russian and 30-06, I use 6-7 grains of almost any fast burning powder. These include, but are not limited to Bullseye, WW231, SR-7625, Green Dot, Red Dot or 700-X. I have also had fine results with 8 to 9 grains of medium rate burning pistol or shotgun powders, such as Unique, PB, Herco, or SR-4756 in any case of .303 British or larger.

In the 7.62x39 case, use no more than 4 grains of the fast burning powders mentioned or 5 grains of the shotgun powders. Theses make accurate 50 yard small game loads which let you operate the action manually and save your precious cases. These plinkers are more accurate than you can hold.

Repeated loading of rimless cases with very mild loads results in the primer blast shoving the shoulder back, unless flash holes are enlarged with a No. 39 drill bit to 0.099" diameter. Cases which are so modified must never be used with full powered loads! Always identify cases which are so modified by filing a deep groove across the rim and labeling them clearly to prevent their inadvertent use. For this reason on I prefer to do my plain based practice shooting in rimmed cases like the 30-30, 30-40 Krag, 303 British and 7.62x54R which maintain positive headspace on the rim and are not subject to this limitation.

The Harris "Subsonic Target" Compromise

Mattern liked a velocity of around 1250 f.p.s. for his 100 yard target load because this was common with the lead bullet .32-40 target rifles of his era. I have found grouping is best with non gas- checked bullets in military rifles at lower velocities approaching match grade .22 long rifle ammunition. I use my "Subsonic Target" load at around 1050-1100 f.p.s. to replace both Mattern's "small game" and "100 yard target" loads, though I have lumped it with the latter since it really serves the same purpose. It's report is only a modest "pop" rather than a "crack".

If elongated bullet holes and enlarged groups indicate marginal bullet stability, increase the charge no more than a full grain from the minimum recommended, if needed to get consistent accuracy. If this doesn't work, try a bullet which is more blunt and short for its weight because it will be more easily stabilized. If this doesn't do the trick, you must change to a gas-checked bullet and a heavier load.

The Workhorse Load - Mattern's "200 yard Target"

My favorite load is the most accurate. Mattern's so-called "200 yard target load." I expect 10 shot groups at 200 yards, firing prone rapid with sling to average 4-5". I shoot high Sharpshooter, low Expert scores across the course with an issue 03A3 or M1917, shooting in a cloth coat, using may cast bullet loads. The power of this load approximates the 32-40, inadequate for deer by today's standards. Mattern's "200 yard target load" is easy to assemble. Because it is a mild load, soft scrap alloys usually give better accuracy than harder ones, such as linotype. Local military collector-shooters have standardized on 16 grains of #2400 as the "universal" prescription. It gives around 1500 f.p.s. with a 150-180 grain cast bullet in almost any military caliber. We use 16 grains of #2400 as our reference standard, just as high power competitors use 168 Sierra Match Kings and 4895.

The only common military rifle cartridge in which 16 grains of #2400 provides a maximum load, and which must not be exceeded, is in the tiny 7.63x39mm case. Most SKS rifles will function reliably with charges of #2400 as light as 14 grains with the Lee 312-155-2R at around 1500 f.p.s. I designed this bullet especially for the 7.62x39, but it works very well as a light bullet in any .30 or .303 caliber rifle.

Sixteen Grains of #2400 is the Universal Load

The same 16 grain charge of #2400 is universal for all calibers as a starting load. It is mild and accurate in any larger military case from a 30-40 Krag or .303 British up through a 30-06 or 7.9x57, with standard weight bullets of suitable diameter for the caliber. This is my recommendation for anybody trying cast bullets loads for the first time in a military rifle without prior load development. I say this because #2400 is not "position sensitive", requires no fiber fillers to ensure uniform ignition, and actually groups better when you stripper-clip load the rifle and bang them off, rather than tipping the muzzle up to position the powder charge.

Similar ballistics can be obtained with other powders in any case from 7.62x39 to 30-06 size. If you don't have Hercules #2400, you can freely substitute 17 grains of IMR or H4227, 18 grains of 4198, 21 grains of Reloder 7, 24 grains of IMR 3031, or 25.5 grains of 4895 for comparable results.

However, these other powders may give some vertical stringing in cases larger than the 7.62x39 unless the charge is positioned against the primer by tipping the muzzle up before firing. Hercules #2400 does not require this precaution. Don't ask me why. Hercules #2400 usually gives tight clusters only within a narrow range of charge weights within a grain or so, and the "universal" 16 grain load is almost always the best. Believe me, we have spent a lot of time trying to improve on this, and you can take our word for it.

The beauty of the "200 yard target load" at about 1500 f.p.s. is that it can be assembled from bullets cast from the cheapest, inexpensive scrap alloy, and fired all day without having to clean the bore. It always works. Leading is never a problem. Once a uniform bore condition is established, the rifle behaves like a .22 match rifle, perhaps needing a warming shot or two if it has cooled, but otherwise being remarkably consistent.

The only thing I do after a day's shooting with this load is to swab the bore with a couple of wet patches of GI bore cleaner or Hoppe's, and let it soak until the next match. I then follow with three dry patches prior to firing. It takes only about three foulers to get the 03A3 to settle into tight little clusters again.

"Deer and Long Range Target Load"

Mattern's "deer and 600 yard target load" can be assembled in cases of 30-40 Krag capacity or larger up to 30-06 using 18-21 grains of #2400 or 4227, 22-25 grains of 4198, 25-28 grains of RL-7 or 27-30 grains of 4895, which give from 1700-1800 f.p.s., depending on the case size. These charges must not be used in cases smaller than the 303 British without cross checking against published data! The minimum charge should always be used initially, and the charge adjusted within the specified range only as necessary to get best grouping.

Popular folklore suggests a barrel must be near perfect for good results with cast bullets, but this is mostly bunk, though you may have to be persistent.

I have a rusty-bored Finnish M28/30 which I have shot extensively, in making direct comparisons with the same batches of loads on the same day with a mint M28 and there was no difference. The secret in getting a worn bore to shoot acceptably is to remove all prior fouling and corrosion. Then you must continue to clean the bore "thoroughly and often" until it maintains a consistent bore condition over the long term. You must also keep cast bullet loads under 1800 f.p.s. for hunting and under 1600 f.p.s. for target work.

A cleaned and restored bore will usually give good accuracy with cast bullet loads if the bullet fits the chamber throat properly, is well lubricated and the velocities are kept below 1800 f.p.s.

The distinction between throat diameter and groove diameter in determining proper bullet size is important. If you are unable to determine throat diameter from a chamber cast, a rule of thumb is to size bullets .002" over groove diameter, such as .310" for a 30-06, .312" for a 7.63x54R and .314" for a .303 British.

"Oversized 30's", like the .303 British, 7.7 Jap, 7.65 Argentine, and 7.62x39 Russian frequently give poor accuracy with .30 caliber cast bullets designed for U.S. barrels having .300 bore and .308 groove dimensions. This is because the part of the bullet ahead of the driving bands receives no guidance from the lands in barrel s of larger bore diameter. The quick rule of thumb to checking proper fit of the forepart is to insert the bullet, nose first, into the muzzle. If it enters clear up to the front driving band without being noticeably engraved, accuracy will seldom be satisfactory.

The forepart is not too large if loaded rounds can be chambered with only slight resistance, the bullet does not telescope back into the case, or stick in the throat when extracted without firing. A properly fitting cast bullet should engrave the forepart positively with the lands, and be no more than .001" under chamber throat diameter on the driving bands. Cast bullets with a tapered forepart at least .002" over bore diameter give the best results.

Many pre-WWII Russian rifles of US make, and later Finnish reworks, particularly those with Swiss barrels by the firm SIG, have very snug chamber necks and cannot be used with bullets over .311" diameter unless case necks are reamed or outside turned to .011" wall thickness to provide safe clearance.

Bullets with a large forepart, like the Lee 312-155-2R or Lyman #314299 work best with the 7.62x54R because the forcing cones are large and gradual. Standard .30 caliber gas-checks are correct.

Finnish 7.62x54R, Russian 7.62x39 and 7.65 Argentine barrels are smaller than Russian 7.62x54R, Chinese 7.62x39, Jap 7.7 or .303 British barrels, and usually have standard .300" bore diameter. (Finnish barrels occasionally are as small as .298") and groove diameters of .310 -.3115".

In getting the best grouping with iron sighted military rifles, eyesight is the limiting factor. Anybody over age 40 who shoots iron sights should equip himself with a "Farr-Sight" from Gil Hebard or Brownell's. This adjustable aperture for your eyeglass frame was intended for indoor pistol shooters, but it helps my iron sight rifle shooting, and adds about 5 points to my sco

More ED Harris stuff. http://www.public.asu.edu/~roblewis/...IID2a11a4.html

jimkim · 01-06-2009, 04:52 PM

Everything you ever wanted to know about casting bullets and other stuff.
Cast bullet reference on lead alloy's, min / max pressure, lube, shrinkage,
Main page.
NRA - IHMSA Handgun, Rifle, Air Pistol Silhouette Shooting. The Excitement Of Reactive Steel Targets At The Los Angeles Silhouette Club

Reloading and bullet casting
Mountain Molds Cast Bullet Articles

jimkim · 01-07-2009, 08:06 AM

Home made tools and other things:

Nifty Homemade Tools
reloading2
index
http://www.frfrogspad.com/qalist.htm

S'mo casting stuff. http://hgmould.gunloads.com/casting/...llowspage1.htm

jimkim · 01-09-2009, 02:56 PM

New stuff I want to add.
Understanding headspace

How to adjust your dies.
http://www.nfa.ca/content/view/119/197/

This one has a great seating die adjustment chart.

Setting up a Lee Auto Disk powder measure:
http://www.novashooter.net/press_probs/PressProblem.htm

Setting up a Lee Pro-1000 Tutorial:
http://www.xdtalk.com/forums/ammo-ca...al-sticky.html
It should help with the turret press as well.

Airweight38 · 01-09-2009, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimkim

Bullet Weight not Found in Manuals
Lee:
If the bullet weight you wish to load is not found in your favorite manual, it is safe to use loads listed for a heavier bullet weight and find a load for the powder you have. Using that load with the lighter bullet simply reduces the pressure, but the velocity remains approximately the same.

Speer:
The physics of loading cartridges indicates that a heavier bullet will build pressures faster than a lighter bullet owing to its mass. The greater mass of the heavier bullet resists change (acceleration) more than a lighter mass so the powder charges for the heavier bullet will nearly always be lower than those for the lighter bullet of the same construction. This indicates that, without other data to follow, the heavier bullet data can be used as a starting point for the lighter bullet.

I just learned something very useful. Thanks, jim!

jimkim · 01-09-2009, 03:10 PM

Your welcome. If you can find something useful please add to this. I know it is getting big, but I want it to cover everything, which is probably impossible.

Cast bullet stuff.
http://www.castpics.net/
http://ezine.m1911.org/casting_frame.htm
http://www.castbulletassoc.org/forum...29&forum_id=78

jimkim · 01-12-2009, 10:17 AM

Nasty ole lead bullet suppliers.
Tru-Cast Bullets
Desperado Cowboy Bullets, LLC
Welcome To Penn Bullets INC.
Leadheads Bullets,Gas Checked and Plain Based Bullets
Chey- Cast Bullets
Meister Bullets – Full line of hard cast lead cowboy and ISPC/IDPA bullets, new brass, cartridges, black powder SPG lead bullets, reloading supplies, hard swaged lead bullets, shooting supplies, T-shirts, hats and patches
Home
Precision Bullets Index Page
WOLF BULLETS
GARDNERS CACHE'
Beartooth Bullets Secure Online Shopping
Rim Rock Bullets, Premium Cast Lead Bullets
Quality hand-cast bullets for reloaders, competitors, and recreational shooters - Rifle Bullets - Price List
Moyer's Cast Bullets, cast lead bullets, handgun bullets, rifle bullets
I order from here. I once overpaid by a few dollars and Michael sent me fifty extra bullets.
Cast Lead Bullets - ReloadersAuction.com, reloading, shooting, online auction
Western Bullet Co.
I know there are more. This is all I could find at the moment.

billy · 01-12-2009, 10:40 AM

You need to learn to go slow and steady and NEVER force the operating handle when you feel any kind of resistance.

Miller · 01-18-2009, 02:05 PM

Thanks for this thread. I've been looking at getting into reloading for a while.

jimkim · 01-25-2009, 05:20 AM

I am posting this to let you know. When you have a problem with a company you need to work with the company to get things done. Remember, sometimes even Dillon wants you to send things back.

Quote:

On most Dillon reloading equipment, the warranty is lifetime on broken, worn out or damaged parts,regardless of whether the product was purchased new from us, or used elsewhere. Electronic components and textiles have a one year warranty, as does the RL1050/Super 1050 machine. Lost or missing parts are not replaced under warranty . Usually if it is a minor part like a locator button or a toolhead pin, we will mail it for free. There are some parts or assemblies that we will not mail a replacement out until we receive the bad item first. Some assemblies, such as powder measures, we can rebuild.
We have a pretty good idea of what a customer might break or wear out while engaging in routine use of the equipment. This also means we know that some items, such as powder measure lids, platforms,powder funnels, are not likely to break- in these instances we have the right to ask that broken/damaged parts be returned to us first. In no way does this imply a customer is trying to take advantage of this. If these parts can be broken, we want to see how, so we can determine if a design change is necessary.
There have been instances of customers trying to take advantage of us. We limit this by controlling which pieces we are willing to send out without requiring broken parts back. In many instances, we will send out a replacement part with an invoice. When the bad part is returned, it is credited towards the open balance, cancelling it out.
If a product has an initial defect, and we need it back, we typically either send a call tag, postage label, or arrange to reimburse the return shipping in some manner. If a part breaks, or wears out, and needs to be returned to us, then the customer is responsible only to ship it to us. We cover the return shipping.
We try hard not to let a customers attitude affect their warranty service. However, if someone yells, swears, then we have no obligation to continue that conversation. We truly try our best to take care of our customers.
If you feel you did not receive the service you wanted, feel free to phone me -1-800-223-4570, ext 311. I am the Sales Manager at Dillon.

Thank you Dillon - Cast Boolits

jason1965 · 01-25-2009, 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimkim

I know the title sucks.
Reloading 101
Handloading Safety
John Wooters Reloading Safety Tips
Reloading Safety
Shotshell Reloading Safety Tips
Reloading Safety
Alliant Powder: Reloading Safety
A Beginner's Reloading Gear Checklist
So you want to reload

Yes training is available.
NRA Education and Training

Videos
YouTube - reloading handloading hand loading ammo

Load Data: Follow all safety rules and double check data. When in doubt call the manufacturer.
Reloader's Nest - a reloaders resource
Reloading Pages of M.D. Smith
Handloads.Com Load Data - Handloads.Com
DISCLAIMER

This one has a lot of info.
Reloading Data

This isn't about reloading, but if your like me you like to listen to something while your loading or online.
Resources from Tom : Tom Gresham's Gun Talk Radio Show : High Powered Talk Radio
and
ProArms

If any moderator has something to add please edit this thread.

Thanks man,I am going to start to learn to do this,after I build my new house in the spring,and have a huge basement to do it in.I am also going to build my own 200 yard range on my property to test all my handy work.

jimkim · 01-30-2009, 02:11 PM

Some more stuff I like.

External Ballistics Calculator

This is called The Definitive "New to Reloading" Thread.
http://www.go2gbo.com/forums/index.p...c,99824.0.html

GabbyM strikes again. Here is one of his tips.

Quote:

Decapping mil brass trick.

Deburr the flash holes on the inside of case before decapping. I have an RCBS deburr tool with it's #1 center drill point ground short with negative angle on drill point to ride on primer anvil.

Those pesky burrs are what catches the decap pin to break them off. Pins will be pushed to side to miss hole or push a burr in with them to seize and snap. After I started deburring flash holes first. Breaking a pin became a very rare occurrence.

I also use a primer pocket uniformer chucked in a power screwdriver to clean up all the primer pockets.
Great fun.

toolman · 01-30-2009, 08:39 PM

JK, this quote from the Dillon guy made me spew beer all over my keyboard:

There have been instances of customers trying to take advantage of us. We limit this by controlling which pieces we are willing to send out without requiring broken parts back.

Maybe it's just me, but they don't complain about asking you to send them $500-$1000+ for a new press and then tell you that for increased productivity, you really ought to spend another $37+ for a roller handle and more $$$ for toolhead stands, and a few more $$$ for cal. conversion kits, and the cover isn't included, and...

Gotta love capitalism!

jimkim · 02-03-2009, 10:35 AM

Proper bullet sizing for revolvers.

Quote:

Size your cast bullets to the diameter of the cylinder throats. You should feel resistance in pushing the bullet inserting it from the rear of the chamber and out the front, but you should be able to do so using hand pressure only. If bullets cannot be pushed through by hand, it raises pressure and leads the cylinder. If bullets can readily fall out through the front of the cylinder of their own weight you will get forcing cone leading and poor accuracy.

In my Colt Officers Model Match and custom PPC revolvers I use the Saeco #348 double-end, bevel-base wadcutter cast 10 BHN using indoor range backstop scrap. As-cast bullet diameter is .360", which is the same as factory Remington HBWCs. I load these bullets as-cast and unsized, lubricating with Rooster jacket full strength in a proportion of 1/3 cup to 1000 bullets, or a diluted solution of Lee Liquid Alox cut 50-50 with mineral spirits in the same ratio.

I load these on a Dillon RL550B with 3.5 grains of Alliant Bullseye with Remington primers, seating bullets sprue-cut up, with the base bevel exposed and taper crimping using the Lee Factory Crimp Die with no more crimp than necessary to remove mouth flare. For serious target work you want to use cases which were originally used for factory wadcutter ammunition. This is because they have thinner walls with a long cylindrical length to the base of the bullet, whereas +P and other cases made for JHP service loads are thicker walled and tapered to provide heavier bullet pull when loading jacketed bullets. If your targer revolver has tight chambers, as mine does, .360 bullets will hold friction tight in fired brass until rounds can be full-length profiled and crimped. If you do not size brass, but crimp in this manner, case life is improved, bullet deformation is reduced and bullet pull is more uniform, because brass work hardens and springs back much less being moved only once in profile crimping, rather then being worked three times in sizing, expanding and then crimping.

Standard loading dies work brass excessively because they size cases to provide a tight fit with jacketed bullets. If your target revolver has tight chambers, as mine does, it is unnecessary to size fired brass. I separately decap, tumble clean, uniform primer pockets, debur flash holes and hand prime brass, using the Dillon only to flare case mouths, measure powder, seat and crimp.

Using the LFC die sizes the bullet by compression inside the case instead of reducing it by shear in a die. The unsized bevel band exposed ahead of the case mouth enables a positive gas seal in the cylinder throats. My ammunition averages sub 2-inch 5-shot groups at 50 yards in long series of targets and it takes very good factory wadcutters to beat it.
Attached Image (viewed 1 time):

Last edited on Tue Feb 3rd, 2009 10:29 am by Ed Harris

38 Spc. Sizing question - Bullet Casting - Bullet Casting - The Cast Bullet Association Inc. Forum

http://www.cci-ammunition.com/safety/primer_safety.aspx

LiveToShoot · 02-03-2009, 10:04 PM

This thread keeps getting better each time I take a look at it.

Thanks again...

01-02-2009, 07:18 PM	#21
jimkim Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Near the Little Ocmulgee river in GA Posts: 4,562 Blog Entries: 18	How to reload a cartridge step by step. Quick Reference Reloading Guide http://www.three-peaks.net/reload.htm __________________ The bigger the government, the smaller the individual. Last edited by jimkim; 01-02-2009 at 07:36 PM.

01-03-2009, 02:43 AM	#22
jimkim Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Near the Little Ocmulgee river in GA Posts: 4,562 Blog Entries: 18	Obsolete parts supplier. Herter's, Lyman Tru-line Jr, etc... Vega Tool and Gun Book Company The Ranch Dog method of lubing cast rifle bullets. http://www.marlinowners.com/forums/i...c,27078.0.html Lee FAQ: http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi/faq/...231067257.3249 __________________ The bigger the government, the smaller the individual. Last edited by jimkim; 01-04-2009 at 06:14 AM.

01-04-2009, 06:57 AM	#23
jimkim Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Near the Little Ocmulgee river in GA Posts: 4,562 Blog Entries: 18	Stuck case removal. reloading2 I just hammer it out with the pin if I'm using Lee dies. This is what Lee recommends: You can easily remove the case yourself, loosen but do not remove the decapper clamp with a 3/4 and 1/2 wrench. Then pound on the end of the decapper rod with a 3/16 drift punch, and use a heavy hammer for best results. You can leave the die in the press for this operation. __________________ The bigger the government, the smaller the individual. Last edited by jimkim; 01-04-2009 at 07:14 AM.

01-04-2009, 07:39 AM	#25
jimkim Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Near the Little Ocmulgee river in GA Posts: 4,562 Blog Entries: 18	Wipe the lube off of your cartridges when your done. Sierra Bullets FAQ: Question I don't want to waste my time wiping all the sizing lube off my cases after the resizing operation, but I've been told not to tumble loaded ammunition. Won't some lubrication help the cartridge chamber more easily? What happens if it is not removed before shooting? Answer Upon ignition, the case expands in all directions, with the case walls tightly gripping the chamber. Almost instantly, the case relaxes its grip on the chamber walls as the pressure starts to drop, allowing the case to be extracted. If the cartridge were lubricated, the case wouldn't be able to grip the chamber walls, allowing it to slam back sharply against the bolt face. In extreme examples, this force, called "bolt thrust," can even damage a firearm. For what it's worth, the British used to use lubricated cartridges to proof test a firearm, rather than the so called "blue pill" loads used here in the US. Wipe those cases, and make sure your chamber stays clean and dry! __________________ The bigger the government, the smaller the individual. Last edited by jimkim; 01-05-2009 at 12:49 PM.

01-05-2009, 06:57 AM	#26
jimkim Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Near the Little Ocmulgee river in GA Posts: 4,562 Blog Entries: 18	ED Harris articles. CAST BULLET LOADS FOR MILITARY RIFLES Cast bullets can make shooting that surplus rifle easy and economical. And basic data works for many different guns. BY C.E. Harris Cast bullet loads usually give a more useful zero at practical field ranges with military battle sights than do full power loads. Nothing is more frustrating than a military rifle that shoots a foot high at 100 yards with surplus ammo when the sight is as low as it will go! Do not use inert fillers (Dacron or kapok) to take up excess empty space in the case. This was once common practice, but it raises chamber pressure and under certain conditions contributes to chamber ringing. If a particular load will not work well without a filler, the powder is not suitable for those conditions of loading. Four load classifications from Mattern (1932) cover all uses for the cast bullet military rifle. I worked up equivalent charges to obtain the desired velocity ranges with modern powders, which provide a sound basis for loading cast bullets in any post-1898 military rifle from 7mm to 8mm: 1. 125 grain plain based "small game/gallery" 900-1000 f.p.s., 5 grains of Bullseye or equivalent. 2. 150 grain plain based "100-yard target/small game", 1050-1250 f.p.s., 7 grains of Bullseye or equivalent. 3. 170-180 grain gas checked "200 yard target", 1500-1600 f.p.s., 16 grains of Hercules #2400 or equivalent. 4. 180-200 grain gas-checked "deer/600 yard target", 1750-1850 f.p.s., 26 grains of RL-7 or equivalent. None of these loads are maximum when used in full-sized rifle cases such as the 30-40 Krag, .303 British, 7.65 Argentine, 7.7 Jap, 7.62x54R Russian , or 30-06. They can be used as basic load data in most modern military rifles of 7mm or larger, with a standard weight cast bullet for the caliber, such as 140-170 grains in the 7x57, 150-180 grains in the .30 calibers, and 150-190 grains in the 8mm. For bores smaller than 7mm, consult published data. The Small Game or Gallery" Load The 110-115 grain bullets intended for the .30 carbine and .32-20 Winchester, such as the Lyman #3118, #311008, #311359, or #311316 are not as accurate as heavier ones like the #311291. There isn't a readily available .30 caliber cast small game bullet of the proper 125-130 grain weight. LBT makes a 130 grain flat-nosed gas-check bullet for the .32 H&R Magnum which is ideal for this purpose. I recommend it highly, particularly if you own a .32 revolver. The "100 Yard Target and Small Game" Load I use Mattern's plain-based "100 yard target load" to use up my minor visual defect culls for offhand and rapid-fire 100 yard practice. I substitute my usual gas-checked bullets, but without the gas-check. I started doing this in 1963 with the Lyman #311291. Today I use the Lee .312-155-2R, or the similar tumble-lubed design TL.312-160-2R. Most of my rifle shooting is done with these two basic designs. Bullets I intend for plain based loads are blunted using a flat-nosed top punch in my lubricator, providing a 1/8" flat which makes them more effective on small game and clearly distinguishes them from my heavier gas-checked loads. This makes more sense to me than casting different bullets. Bullet preparation is easy. I visually inspect each run of bullets and throw those with gross defects into the scrap box for remelting. Bullets with minor visual defects are tumble-lubed in Lee Liquid Alox without sizing, and are used for plain base plinkers. Bullets which are visually perfect are weighed and sorted into groups of +/- 0.5 grain for use in 200 yard matches. Gas checks are pressed onto bullet bases by hand prior to running into the lubricator-sizer. For gas-check bullets loaded without the gas- checks, for cases like the .303 British, 7.62 NATO, 7.62x54R Russian and 30-06, I use 6-7 grains of almost any fast burning powder. These include, but are not limited to Bullseye, WW231, SR-7625, Green Dot, Red Dot or 700-X. I have also had fine results with 8 to 9 grains of medium rate burning pistol or shotgun powders, such as Unique, PB, Herco, or SR-4756 in any case of .303 British or larger. In the 7.62x39 case, use no more than 4 grains of the fast burning powders mentioned or 5 grains of the shotgun powders. Theses make accurate 50 yard small game loads which let you operate the action manually and save your precious cases. These plinkers are more accurate than you can hold. Repeated loading of rimless cases with very mild loads results in the primer blast shoving the shoulder back, unless flash holes are enlarged with a No. 39 drill bit to 0.099" diameter. Cases which are so modified must never be used with full powered loads! Always identify cases which are so modified by filing a deep groove across the rim and labeling them clearly to prevent their inadvertent use. For this reason on I prefer to do my plain based practice shooting in rimmed cases like the 30-30, 30-40 Krag, 303 British and 7.62x54R which maintain positive headspace on the rim and are not subject to this limitation. The Harris "Subsonic Target" Compromise Mattern liked a velocity of around 1250 f.p.s. for his 100 yard target load because this was common with the lead bullet .32-40 target rifles of his era. I have found grouping is best with non gas- checked bullets in military rifles at lower velocities approaching match grade .22 long rifle ammunition. I use my "Subsonic Target" load at around 1050-1100 f.p.s. to replace both Mattern's "small game" and "100 yard target" loads, though I have lumped it with the latter since it really serves the same purpose. It's report is only a modest "pop" rather than a "crack". If elongated bullet holes and enlarged groups indicate marginal bullet stability, increase the charge no more than a full grain from the minimum recommended, if needed to get consistent accuracy. If this doesn't work, try a bullet which is more blunt and short for its weight because it will be more easily stabilized. If this doesn't do the trick, you must change to a gas-checked bullet and a heavier load. The Workhorse Load - Mattern's "200 yard Target" My favorite load is the most accurate. Mattern's so-called "200 yard target load." I expect 10 shot groups at 200 yards, firing prone rapid with sling to average 4-5". I shoot high Sharpshooter, low Expert scores across the course with an issue 03A3 or M1917, shooting in a cloth coat, using may cast bullet loads. The power of this load approximates the 32-40, inadequate for deer by today's standards. Mattern's "200 yard target load" is easy to assemble. Because it is a mild load, soft scrap alloys usually give better accuracy than harder ones, such as linotype. Local military collector-shooters have standardized on 16 grains of #2400 as the "universal" prescription. It gives around 1500 f.p.s. with a 150-180 grain cast bullet in almost any military caliber. We use 16 grains of #2400 as our reference standard, just as high power competitors use 168 Sierra Match Kings and 4895. The only common military rifle cartridge in which 16 grains of #2400 provides a maximum load, and which must not be exceeded, is in the tiny 7.63x39mm case. Most SKS rifles will function reliably with charges of #2400 as light as 14 grains with the Lee 312-155-2R at around 1500 f.p.s. I designed this bullet especially for the 7.62x39, but it works very well as a light bullet in any .30 or .303 caliber rifle. Sixteen Grains of #2400 is the Universal Load The same 16 grain charge of #2400 is universal for all calibers as a starting load. It is mild and accurate in any larger military case from a 30-40 Krag or .303 British up through a 30-06 or 7.9x57, with standard weight bullets of suitable diameter for the caliber. This is my recommendation for anybody trying cast bullets loads for the first time in a military rifle without prior load development. I say this because #2400 is not "position sensitive", requires no fiber fillers to ensure uniform ignition, and actually groups better when you stripper-clip load the rifle and bang them off, rather than tipping the muzzle up to position the powder charge. Similar ballistics can be obtained with other powders in any case from 7.62x39 to 30-06 size. If you don't have Hercules #2400, you can freely substitute 17 grains of IMR or H4227, 18 grains of 4198, 21 grains of Reloder 7, 24 grains of IMR 3031, or 25.5 grains of 4895 for comparable results. However, these other powders may give some vertical stringing in cases larger than the 7.62x39 unless the charge is positioned against the primer by tipping the muzzle up before firing. Hercules #2400 does not require this precaution. Don't ask me why. Hercules #2400 usually gives tight clusters only within a narrow range of charge weights within a grain or so, and the "universal" 16 grain load is almost always the best. Believe me, we have spent a lot of time trying to improve on this, and you can take our word for it. The beauty of the "200 yard target load" at about 1500 f.p.s. is that it can be assembled from bullets cast from the cheapest, inexpensive scrap alloy, and fired all day without having to clean the bore. It always works. Leading is never a problem. Once a uniform bore condition is established, the rifle behaves like a .22 match rifle, perhaps needing a warming shot or two if it has cooled, but otherwise being remarkably consistent. The only thing I do after a day's shooting with this load is to swab the bore with a couple of wet patches of GI bore cleaner or Hoppe's, and let it soak until the next match. I then follow with three dry patches prior to firing. It takes only about three foulers to get the 03A3 to settle into tight little clusters again. "Deer and Long Range Target Load" Mattern's "deer and 600 yard target load" can be assembled in cases of 30-40 Krag capacity or larger up to 30-06 using 18-21 grains of #2400 or 4227, 22-25 grains of 4198, 25-28 grains of RL-7 or 27-30 grains of 4895, which give from 1700-1800 f.p.s., depending on the case size. These charges must not be used in cases smaller than the 303 British without cross checking against published data! The minimum charge should always be used initially, and the charge adjusted within the specified range only as necessary to get best grouping. Popular folklore suggests a barrel must be near perfect for good results with cast bullets, but this is mostly bunk, though you may have to be persistent. I have a rusty-bored Finnish M28/30 which I have shot extensively, in making direct comparisons with the same batches of loads on the same day with a mint M28 and there was no difference. The secret in getting a worn bore to shoot acceptably is to remove all prior fouling and corrosion. Then you must continue to clean the bore "thoroughly and often" until it maintains a consistent bore condition over the long term. You must also keep cast bullet loads under 1800 f.p.s. for hunting and under 1600 f.p.s. for target work. A cleaned and restored bore will usually give good accuracy with cast bullet loads if the bullet fits the chamber throat properly, is well lubricated and the velocities are kept below 1800 f.p.s. The distinction between throat diameter and groove diameter in determining proper bullet size is important. If you are unable to determine throat diameter from a chamber cast, a rule of thumb is to size bullets .002" over groove diameter, such as .310" for a 30-06, .312" for a 7.63x54R and .314" for a .303 British. "Oversized 30's", like the .303 British, 7.7 Jap, 7.65 Argentine, and 7.62x39 Russian frequently give poor accuracy with .30 caliber cast bullets designed for U.S. barrels having .300 bore and .308 groove dimensions. This is because the part of the bullet ahead of the driving bands receives no guidance from the lands in barrel s of larger bore diameter. The quick rule of thumb to checking proper fit of the forepart is to insert the bullet, nose first, into the muzzle. If it enters clear up to the front driving band without being noticeably engraved, accuracy will seldom be satisfactory. The forepart is not too large if loaded rounds can be chambered with only slight resistance, the bullet does not telescope back into the case, or stick in the throat when extracted without firing. A properly fitting cast bullet should engrave the forepart positively with the lands, and be no more than .001" under chamber throat diameter on the driving bands. Cast bullets with a tapered forepart at least .002" over bore diameter give the best results. Many pre-WWII Russian rifles of US make, and later Finnish reworks, particularly those with Swiss barrels by the firm SIG, have very snug chamber necks and cannot be used with bullets over .311" diameter unless case necks are reamed or outside turned to .011" wall thickness to provide safe clearance. Bullets with a large forepart, like the Lee 312-155-2R or Lyman #314299 work best with the 7.62x54R because the forcing cones are large and gradual. Standard .30 caliber gas-checks are correct. Finnish 7.62x54R, Russian 7.62x39 and 7.65 Argentine barrels are smaller than Russian 7.62x54R, Chinese 7.62x39, Jap 7.7 or .303 British barrels, and usually have standard .300" bore diameter. (Finnish barrels occasionally are as small as .298") and groove diameters of .310 -.3115". In getting the best grouping with iron sighted military rifles, eyesight is the limiting factor. Anybody over age 40 who shoots iron sights should equip himself with a "Farr-Sight" from Gil Hebard or Brownell's. This adjustable aperture for your eyeglass frame was intended for indoor pistol shooters, but it helps my iron sight rifle shooting, and adds about 5 points to my sco More ED Harris stuff. http://www.public.asu.edu/~roblewis/...IID2a11a4.html __________________ The bigger the government, the smaller the individual. Last edited by jimkim; 01-05-2009 at 07:15 AM.

01-04-2009, 07:10 AM	#24
jimkim Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Near the Little Ocmulgee river in GA Posts: 4,562 Blog Entries: 18	Bullet Weight not Found in Manuals Lee: If the bullet weight you wish to load is not found in your favorite manual, it is safe to use loads listed for a heavier bullet weight and find a load for the powder you have. Using that load with the lighter bullet simply reduces the pressure, but the velocity remains approximately the same. Speer: The physics of loading cartridges indicates that a heavier bullet will build pressures faster than a lighter bullet owing to its mass. The greater mass of the heavier bullet resists change (acceleration) more than a lighter mass so the powder charges for the heavier bullet will nearly always be lower than those for the lighter bullet of the same construction. This indicates that, without other data to follow, the heavier bullet data can be used as a starting point for the lighter bullet. __________________ The bigger the government, the smaller the individual. Last edited by jimkim; 01-04-2009 at 07:34 AM.

01-06-2009, 04:52 PM	#27
jimkim Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Near the Little Ocmulgee river in GA Posts: 4,562 Blog Entries: 18	Everything you ever wanted to know about casting bullets and other stuff. Cast bullet reference on lead alloy's, min / max pressure, lube, shrinkage, Main page. NRA - IHMSA Handgun, Rifle, Air Pistol Silhouette Shooting. The Excitement Of Reactive Steel Targets At The Los Angeles Silhouette Club Reloading and bullet casting Mountain Molds Cast Bullet Articles __________________ The bigger the government, the smaller the individual.

01-07-2009, 08:06 AM	#28
jimkim Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Near the Little Ocmulgee river in GA Posts: 4,562 Blog Entries: 18	Home made tools and other things: Nifty Homemade Tools reloading2 index http://www.frfrogspad.com/qalist.htm S'mo casting stuff. http://hgmould.gunloads.com/casting/...llowspage1.htm __________________ The bigger the government, the smaller the individual. Last edited by jimkim; 01-08-2009 at 07:59 PM.

01-09-2009, 02:56 PM	#29
jimkim Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Near the Little Ocmulgee river in GA Posts: 4,562 Blog Entries: 18	New stuff I want to add. Understanding headspace How to adjust your dies. http://www.nfa.ca/content/view/119/197/ This one has a great seating die adjustment chart. Setting up a Lee Auto Disk powder measure: http://www.novashooter.net/press_probs/PressProblem.htm Setting up a Lee Pro-1000 Tutorial: http://www.xdtalk.com/forums/ammo-ca...al-sticky.html It should help with the turret press as well. __________________ The bigger the government, the smaller the individual. Last edited by jimkim; 01-10-2009 at 11:14 PM.

01-09-2009, 03:10 PM	#31
jimkim Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Near the Little Ocmulgee river in GA Posts: 4,562 Blog Entries: 18	Your welcome. If you can find something useful please add to this. I know it is getting big, but I want it to cover everything, which is probably impossible. Cast bullet stuff. http://www.castpics.net/ http://ezine.m1911.org/casting_frame.htm http://www.castbulletassoc.org/forum...29&forum_id=78 __________________ The bigger the government, the smaller the individual. Last edited by jimkim; 01-10-2009 at 04:32 PM.

01-12-2009, 10:17 AM	#32
jimkim Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Near the Little Ocmulgee river in GA Posts: 4,562 Blog Entries: 18	Nasty ole lead bullet suppliers. Tru-Cast Bullets Desperado Cowboy Bullets, LLC Welcome To Penn Bullets INC. Leadheads Bullets,Gas Checked and Plain Based Bullets Chey- Cast Bullets Meister Bullets – Full line of hard cast lead cowboy and ISPC/IDPA bullets, new brass, cartridges, black powder SPG lead bullets, reloading supplies, hard swaged lead bullets, shooting supplies, T-shirts, hats and patches Home Precision Bullets Index Page WOLF BULLETS GARDNERS CACHE' Beartooth Bullets Secure Online Shopping Rim Rock Bullets, Premium Cast Lead Bullets Quality hand-cast bullets for reloaders, competitors, and recreational shooters - Rifle Bullets - Price List Moyer's Cast Bullets, cast lead bullets, handgun bullets, rifle bullets I order from here. I once overpaid by a few dollars and Michael sent me fifty extra bullets. Cast Lead Bullets - ReloadersAuction.com, reloading, shooting, online auction Western Bullet Co. I know there are more. This is all I could find at the moment. __________________ The bigger the government, the smaller the individual. Last edited by jimkim; 01-12-2009 at 06:22 PM.

01-12-2009, 10:40 AM	#33
billy Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: a secret lab on the shores of lake titicaca Posts: 20,410 Blog Entries: 161	You need to learn to go slow and steady and NEVER force the operating handle when you feel any kind of resistance. __________________ ANGRY SMART AND SOBER

01-18-2009, 02:05 PM	#34
Miller Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 47	Thanks for this thread. I've been looking at getting into reloading for a while.

01-30-2009, 08:39 PM	#38
toolman Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: abilene,tx Posts: 7,305 Blog Entries: 25	JK, this quote from the Dillon guy made me spew beer all over my keyboard: There have been instances of customers trying to take advantage of us. We limit this by controlling which pieces we are willing to send out without requiring broken parts back. Maybe it's just me, but they don't complain about asking you to send them $500-$1000+ for a new press and then tell you that for increased productivity, you really ought to spend another $37+ for a roller handle and more $$$ for toolhead stands, and a few more $$$ for cal. conversion kits, and the cover isn't included, and... Gotta love capitalism! __________________ cosmoline is an aphrodisiac!

02-03-2009, 10:04 PM	#40
LiveToShoot Banned Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: SE IDAHO Posts: 4,920	This thread keeps getting better each time I take a look at it. Thanks again...