[LiveToShoot]

JK,

Thanks for the CBA info...

[jimkim]

Your welcome. Spread the word. lol

[tclu1308]

Hey man, this is like THE BIBLE of reloading! great job. Like jason1965 I am moving into a house and considering getting into this. I fooled around with this a bit a few years ago and lost interest because I couldn't seem to find all the tools and info I needed to feel confident, but thanks to this ginormous thread I think I will be on my way. Now my only problem is I'll be up late, for probably the next month, trying to read all this!

[tclu1308]

and to think I used to scoff at getting a degree online. haha

[billy]

broken or missing decapping pins.
use a finish nail of the proper diameter.
clip the head and tip off and smooth with file.

[jimkim]

Quote:       Originally Posted by billy

broken or missing decapping pins. use a finish nail of the proper diameter. clip the head and tip off and smooth with file.

Some of them have a head on them. Put the nail in a drill and size the head to the right diam.


More stuff product testing. http://www.graybeardoutdoors.com/pro...ducttest.shtml

Case inspection: http://shakeypete.blogspot.com/2005/...-and-prep.html

[jimkim]

Ed Harris' tips

Quote:      

1) Decap all fired brass using Lee decapper 2) Tumble clean always in untreated corncob to remove range dirt. 3) Inside deburr all once-fired cases. Any previously reloaded cases check length and trim/deburr if needed. 4)A - straight-wall cases don't get sized, but use as-cast, unsized bullets with Rooster Jacket or Lee Liquid Alox. 4)B - bottle-necked cases all get FL sized and tumbled again to remove any sizing lube. 5)B - clean primer pockets of bottlenecked cases after second tumbling. 6) Flare case mouth 7) Prime 8) Charge powder 9) Visually inspect powder fill 100% 10) Hand start bullet 11) Seat to depth 12) Crimp and Profile loaded rounds using Lee Factory crimp die for all straight walled cases. 13) Visually inspect, box, label, lot log.

[jimkim]

This is posted as a reference. I have not tried this.
Converting Berdan primed brass to use Boxer primers. http://users.ameritech.net/mchandler/primer.html

These are from Wikipedia. The highlighted words are links.
Bullet Abbreviations

ACC – Remington Accelerator [3] (see sabot)AP – Armor Piercing (has a steel or other hard metal core)BBWC – Bevel Base WadcutterBEB – Brass Enclosed BaseBlitz – Sierra BlitzKingBt – Boat-tailBtHP – Boat-tail Hollow PointCB – Cast BulletCL, C-L – Remington Core-LoktDEWC – Double Ended WadcutterEVO, FTX – Hornady LEVERevolution® Flex Tip® eXpandingFMJ – Full Metal JacketFN – Flat NoseFP – Flat PointFST – Winchester Fail Safe TalonGC – Gas CheckGD – Speer Gold DotGDHP – Speer Gold Dot Hollow PointGS – Remington Golden SaberHBWC – Hollow Base WadcutterHC – Hard CastHP – Hollow PointHPJ – High Performance JacketedHS – Federal Hydra-ShokHST – Federal Hi-Shok TwoJ – JacketedJFP – Jacketed Flat Point JHC – Jacketed Hollow CavityJHP – Jacketed Hollow PointJHP/sabot – Jacketed Hollow Point/sabotJSP – Jacketed Soft PointL – LeadL-C – Lead CombatL-T – Lead TargetLFN – Long Flat NoseLFP – Lead Flat PointLHP – Lead Hollow PointLRN – Lead Round NoseLSWC – Lead SemiwadcutterLSWC-GC – Lead Semiwadcutter Gas CheckedLWC – Lead WadcutterLTC – Lead Truncated ConeMC – Metal CasedMHP – Match Hollow PointMK – Sierra MatchKingMRWC – Mid-Range WadcutterNP – Nosler PartitionOTM – Open Tip MatchOWC – Ogival Wadcutter [4]PB – Lead BulletPB – ParabellumPL – Remington Power-LoktPSP – Plated Soft PointPSP, PTDSP – Pointed Soft PointRN – Round Nose RNFP – Round Nose Flat PointRNL – Round Nosed LeadSJ – Semi-JacketedSJHP – Semi-Jacketed Hollow PointSJSP – Semi-Jacketed Soft PointSP – Soft PointSP – Spire PointSp,SPTZ – SpitzerSpHP – Spitzer Hollow PointSST – Hornady Super Shock TipSSp – Semi-SpitzerST – Silver TipSTHP – Silver Tip Hollow PointSWC – SemiwadcutterSX – Super ExplosiveSXT – Winchester Ranger Supreme Expansion TechnologyTC – Truncated ConeTMJ – Total Metal JacketTNT – Speer TNTVMAX – Hornady V-MaxVLD – Very Low DragWC – WadcutterWFN – Wide Flat NoseWFNGC – Wide Flat Nose Gas CheckWLN – Wide Long NoseX – Barnes X-BulletXTP – Hornady Extreme Terminal Performance


Lee Collet dies explained.

Quote:      

It does not size like that , it squeezes in on a central mandral. The only way you can reduce the length of neck area sized is by placing a machined washer over the case onto the shell holder. The thickness of the washer is the length of reduction. Using The Lee Collet Die. I started using Lee collet dies when they first came on the market and have found that they are very good for the purposes for which they were designed . I have found that there is a lack of understanding of how to use the die properly and as a result people fail to see the advantages that the die can deliver over standard neck sizing dies. This is not the fault of the product , it is just a lack of understanding of how the die works and what it will feel like when you operate the press correctly. Standard dies use a neck expanding ball on the decapping rod and size by extruding the neck through a hole and then drag the expander ball back through the inside neck. The collet die achieves neck sizing by using a split collet to squeeze the outside of the case neck onto a central mandrel which has the decapping pin in it’s base . One advantage is that there is no stretching or drawing action on the brass. The inside neck diameter is controlled by the diameter of the mandrel and to some extent by the amount of adjustment of the die and the pressure applied to the press . This results in less misalignment than can occur in standard dies because of any uneven neck wall thickness in the cases . Cases will last longer in the neck area and require less trimming. If cases have very uneven neck wall thickness then this can cause problems for the collet die they definitely work smoother and more accurately with neck turned cases but it is not essential. When you first receive the die unscrew the top cap and pull it apart check that everything is there also that the splits in the collet have nothing stuck in them then inspect the tapered surface on the top end of the collet and the internal taper of the insert to make sure there are no metal burs that might cause it to jamb. Next get some good quality high pressure grease and put a smear onto the tapered surface of the collet . Put it back together and screw it into the press just a few threads for now . The best type of press for this die is a press of moderate compound leverage that travels over centre . Over centre means that when the ram reaches its full travel up it will stop and come back down a tiny amount even though the movement on the handle is continued through to the stop . eg. is an RCBS Rockchucker. This arrangement gives the best feel for a collet die sizing operation. Place the shell holder in the ram and bring the ram up to full height then screw the die down until the collet skirt just touches on the shell holder , then lower the ram . Take a case to be sized that has a clean neck inside and out and the mouth chamfered and place it in the shell holder. Raise the ram gently feeling for resistance if none , lower the ram. Screw the die down a bit at a time . If you get lock up ( ram stops before going over centre) before the correct position is found then back it off and make sure the collet is loose and not jammed up in the die before continuing then raise the ram feeling for any resistance , keep repeating this until you feel the press handle resist against the case neck just at the top of the stroke as the press goes over centre and the handle kinder locks in place . This takes much less force than a standard die and most people don’t believe any sizing has taken place . Take the case out and try a projectile of the correct caliber to see how much sizing has taken place. If it’s still too loose adjust the die down one eighth of a turn lock it finger tight only and try again . Once the die is near the correct sizing position it takes very little movement of the die to achieve changes in neck seating tension . This is where most people come undone , they move the die up and down too much and it either locks up or doesn’t size at all . It will still size a case locking it up but you have no control over how much pressure is applied and some people lean on the press handle to the point of damaging the die. A press like the RCBS Rockchucker , that goes over centre each time gives you a definite stopping point for the ram and the pressure that you apply . There is a small sweet spot for correct collet die adjustment and you must find it , once found , how sweet it is ! Advantages : With a press that travels over centre it is possible to adjust the neck seating tension within a very limited zone. No lubricant is normally required on the case necks during sizing . If you still cant get enough neck tension to hold the bullet properly for a particular purpose then you will have to polish down the mandrel. Be careful poilishing the mandrel down and only do it a bit at a time as a few thou can be removed pretty quickly if you overdo it. You can't get extra neck tension by just applying more force. The amount of adjustment around the sweet spot is very limited and almost not noticable without carrying out tests. For example , to go from a .001 neck tension to a .002 or .003 neck tension you would be talking about polishing down the mandrel. There are some other advantages but I will leave you the pleasure of discovering them . One disadvantage that I have found with the collet die is that it needs good vertical alignment of the case as it enters the die or case damage may result so go slowly. Also some cases with a very thick internal base can cause problems with the mandrel coming in contact with the internal base before the sizing stroke is finished. If pressure is continued the mandrel can push up against the top cap and cause damage . If you are getting lock up and cant get the right sizing sweet spot, then check that the mandrel is not too long for the case you can place a washer over the case and onto the shell holder and size down on that. It will reduce the length of neck sized and give the mandrel more clearance. If it sizes Ok after adding the washer then the mandrel could be hitting the base. This is not a usually problem once you learn how to use them . The harder the brass is the more spring back it will have so very hard brass will exhibit less sizing than soft brass because it will spring away from the mandrel more. If this is happening to excess then use new cases or anneal the necks. Freshly annealed brass can drag on the mandrel a bit in certain cases because it will spring back less and result in a tighter size diameter. I have experienced it. I always use some dry lube on the inside and outside if I get any draging effect . Normally you dont need lube. I make up a special batch 1/3 Fine Moly powder. 1/3 Pure graphite. 1/3 Aluminiumised lock graphite. Rub your fingers around the neck and It sticks very well to the necks by just dipping it in and out and tapping it to clear the inside neck . After a few cases it coats up the mandrel . Other dry lubricants would work also. Use the same process for normal neck sizing also. I noticed a definite improvement in the accuracy of my 22-250Rem. as soon as I started using a Lee collet die instead of my original standard neck die. Readers are encouraged to utilise the benefits of responsible reloading at all times. Although the author has taken care in the writing of these articles no responsibility can be taken by the author or publisher as a result of the use of this information. John Valentine. © 21/01/2002.

http://benchrest.com/forums/showthre...ghlight=collet

[jimkim]

Here's another thread on bullet sizing.

Quote:      

Please forgive me for asking such a noob question but I couldn't find much info on such a broad question. I'm a bit confused about the whole bullet sizing process. How exactly do you know when you need to size, and what size you need to get the bullets down to? I have a .357 and a .308, so should I just size the cast bullets to .357 and .308? How do people measure inside their bore for precise measurements? Any help is highly appreciated.... It depends on the rifle. With cast bullets you want to make sure you fill the bore completely. A gap, even the slightest one will cause leading and an accuracy issue. You need to slug the throat, in a rifle that is the area just before the rifling starts, in a revolver that is the area at the front portion of the cylinder. For a semi auto pistol you slug the bore. Generally if you go .001 over that dimension you will be right where you want to be. I prefer to keep the sizing at a minimum and may at the most size .002, but the closer to as cast I have found is really the best and most accurate way to go. Veral Smith at LBT Molds sells slugging kits that can give you what you need to know. He has a book that is full of really good info as well. Pay him a visit at http://www.lbtmoulds.com

Bullet Sizing Questions - Lubersizers & Lubing Methods - Bullet Casting - The Cast Bullet Association Inc. Forum

[RosieOGirl]

Exhausting ... thank you.

[jimkim]

Your welcome. Now time to read it again. lol

303 Brit. page. http://www.303british.com/id1.html

Bullet casting article. http://www.outdoorlife.com/articles/...ur-own-bullets

[jimkim]

Check these out!! I'm glad I found this. http://10xshooters.com/calculators/index.htm

[jimkim]

Hey look at this!!!!

Test gun 24-inch barreled Winchester Model 94 30 WCF.

All loads fired at 100 yards. All cast bullets made with wheelweights plus 2 percent tin, except where noted otherwise in remarks. (Handloader Issue #233)

140gr SAECO 62630 FP

IMR-4227 11.0gr 1,183fps
Overall loaded length (inches): 2.487; accuracy (inches): 1.71

IMR-4895 18.0gr 1,115fps
Overall loaded length (inches): 2.487; accuracy (inches): 2.56

IMR-4895 18.0gr 1,330fps Overall loaded length (inches): 2.487; accuracy (inches): 5.50; 9.5 grains Ballistic Products filler added

H-4198 16.0gr 1,397fps Overall loaded length (inches): 2.487; accuracy (inches): .91]

Alliant Red Dot 7.0gr1,337fps
Overall loaded length (inches): 2.487; accuracy (inches): 1.23

Alliant Red Dot 7.0gr 1,296fps
Overall loaded length (inches): 2.487; accuracy (inches): 3.41; 10.1 grains Ballistic Products filler added

IMR SR-4756 9.0gr 1,390fps
Overall loaded length (inches): 2.487; accuracy (inches): 1.31


150gr RCBS 150-CM

IMR SR-4756 9.0gr 1,361fps
Overall loaded length (inches): 2.475; accuracy (inches): 3.22

Alliant Red Dot 7.0gr 1,285fps
Overall loaded length (inches): 2.475; accuracy (inches): .89

IMR-4895 18.0gr 1,136fps
Overall loaded length (inches): 2.475; accuracy (inches): .94

H-4198 16.0gr 1,384fps Overall loaded length (inches): 2.475; accuracy (inches): 2.45

IMR-4227 10.0gr 1,014fps
Overall loaded length (inches): 2.475; accuracy (inches): 1.20

IMR-4227 10.5gr 1,046fps Overall loaded length (inches): 2.475; accuracy (inches): .75

IMR-4227] 11.0gr 1,121fps Overall loaded length (inches): 2.475; accuracy (inches): 1.40

IMR-4227 11.5gr 1,144fps Overall loaded length (inches): 2.475; accuracy (inches): 2.33

IMR-4227 12.0gr 1,179fps Overall loaded length (inches): 2.475; accuracy (inches): 1.35



150gr RCBS 150-FN

Ramshot TAC 28.0gr 1,927fps Overall loaded length (inches): 2.535; accuracy (inches): 1.17

H-4198 size=22.0gr size=1,793fps Overall loaded length (inches): 2.535; accuracy (inches): 1.83

IMR SR-4759 18.0gr 1,833fps Overall loaded length (inches): 2.535; accuracy (inches): 1.09

IMR-4895 27.0gr 1,698fps
Overall loaded length (inches): 2.535; accuracy (inches): 2.52

Alliant Unique 11.0gr 1,584fps
Overall loaded length (inches): 2.535; accuracy (inches): 1.66

IMR SR-4756 12.0gr 1,573fps Overall loaded length (inches): 2.535; accuracy (inches): 1.22

Hodgdon BL-C(2) 25.0gr 1,553fps Overall loaded length (inches): 2.535; accuracy (inches): 1.43



175gr NEI 43 175.308 GC

IMR-3031 25.5gr 1,826fps Overall loaded length (inches): 2.549; accuracy (inches): 1.73

IMR-4895 27.0gr1,715fps
Overall loaded length (inches): 2.549; accuracy (inches): 1.94

IMR-4831 34.0gr 1,960fps Overall loaded length (inches): 2.549; accuracy (inches): 2.51

Alliant Red Dot 8.5gr 1,323fps Overall loaded length (inches): 2.549; accuracy (inches): 2.35

Alliant RL-7 25.0gr 2,036fps Overall loaded length (inches): 2.549; accuracy (inches): 1.94

IMR SR-4759 18.5gr 1,808fps
Overall loaded length (inches): 2.549; accuracy (inches): 1.88


180gr SAECO 62307FPGC

IMR SR-4759 18.5gr 1,806fps Overall loaded length (inches): 2.544; accuracy (inches): 1.38

Ramshot TAC 26.0gr 1,856fps
Overall loaded length (inches): 2.544; accuracy (inches): 1.14

IMR-4350 34.0gr 1,959fps Overall loaded length (inches): 2.544; accuracy (inches): 2.00

IMR-3031 27.0gr 1,898fps Overall loaded length (inches): 2.544; accuracy (inches): 1.42

W-748 27.0gr 1,933fps
Overall loaded length (inches): 2.544; accuracy (inches): 1.33

W-748 23.0gr 1,236fps Overall loaded length (inches): 2.544; accuracy (inches): 1.00



150gr RCBS 30-150-FN

IMR SR-4759 13.0gr 1,388fps bullet made of seven parts wheelweights and three parts lead; Overall loaded length (inches): 2.544; accuracy (inches): 2.06

IMR SR-4759 14.0gr 1,525fps
bullet made of seven parts wheeelweights and three parts lead; overall loaded length (inches): 2.544; accuracy (inches): 1.00

IMR SR-4759 15.0gr 1,614fps
bullet made of seven parts wheelweights and three parts lead; Overall loaded length (inches): 2.544; accuracy (inches): 3.09

IMR SR-4759 15.0gr 1,604fps
Overall loaded length (inches): 2.544; accuracy (inches): 1.23

IMR SR-4759 18.0gr 1,856fps Overall loaded length (inches): 2.544; accuracy (inches): 1.00

IMR SR-4759 19.0gr 1,946fps Overall loaded length (inches): 2.544; accuracy (inches): 1.32

IMR SR-4759 18.0gr 1,893fps bullet made using Linotype; Overall loaded length (inches): 2.544; accuracy (inches): 1.12

IMR SR-4759 20.0gr 2,054fps
bullet made using Linotype; Overall loaded length (inches): 2.544; accuracy (inches): 1.50

IMR SR-4759 21.0gr 2,125fps
bullet made using Linotype; Overall loaded length (inches): 2.544; accuracy (inches): 2.23


Whew!! That's a lot of typing. Jim

PRIMERS AND PRESSURE: http://www.jamescalhoon.com/primers_and_pressure.php



This is a good site. http://www.gunfighter.com/cgi-bin/bb.../cowboy-a.cgi?

[jimkim]

Here's another good casting site. Casting Secrets


Classic Ed Harris and Col. E.H. Harrison.

Quote:      

Notes on the .38 Special Col. E.H. Harrison wrote in the NRA Handloader's Guide that "good" lots of factory .38 wadcutters were capable of about 1mil dispersion, approximately 1.5 inch 5-shot groups at 50 yards. Properly assembled hand loads using the same Remington or Winchester component bullets as loaded by the ammunition factories were nearly as good, about 3.5 minutes of angle, or somewhat under two inches at 50 yards from a match-target gun. Of cast bullets tested by Harrison, the Hensley & Giibbs #50 bevel-base cast of linotype metal (22 BHN) was best. The plain based version of the #50 with a flat, square base was nearly as good. Harrison's recommendation of linotype alloy conflicts with my experience. Linotype bullets, unless carefully fitted to revolver cylinder throats, lead the forcing cone and require careful attention to lubrication and cleaning to maintain bore condition. In my testing of commercial cast Meister and Lasercast wad cutters of 92-6-2 alloy (16 BHN), keyholes resulted with light charges of 2.8 grains of Bullseye, whereas increasing the charge to 3.5 grains brought nice, tight revolver groups. Commercial bullet casters prefer hard alloys because they are available in large heat lots, and are consistent than salvaged linotype (which is less common these days) and from a marketing standpoint hard bullets look pretty and aren't damaged in shipping. Harrison found that less bullet lubricant was more accurate in .38 Special target loads than using more. He found it necessary to fill only one lubricating groove of the H&G #50 with 50-50 Alox-beeswax. I found similarly, that a light film of Lee Liquid Alox diluted 50-50 with aliphatic mineral spirits or Stoddard Solvent, or a clear film of Rooster Jacket is entirely adequate for non+P .38 Special loads. Winchester stopped selling lead component bullets several years ago. Remington hollow-based wad-cutter bullets are still available and shoot extremely well. The black, dry lube builds up in seating dies and affects seating depth unless cleaned out periodically. The same occurs with Lee liquid Alox. Lube buildup is less of a problem with Rooster Jacket. I cast my bullets using wheel weights with about 1% tin, or no more than is necessary to get nicely filled out, uniformly frosted bullets which accept the tumble-on film lubricants well. I prefer the Saeco #348. This has a single wide lubricating groove, double-ended, both ends being bevel-based with a substantial angled crimping groove. It weighs 146-grains. I load these as-cast, without sizing, and orient the sprue cut forward, ensuring a flat, square base. Bullets are seated with the front driving band and bevel base protruding from the case mouth to facilitate easy reloading with revolver speed loaders. Saeco #348 wad cutters, are loaded un-sized and tumble-lubed either with Lee Liquid Alox (LLA) or Rooster Jacket tumble-on lube (RJ), seated and crimped in the revolver crimp groove. Brass is decapped and flared only, primed and charges with of 3.5 grains of Aliant Bullseye. Bullets are seated to the crimp groove and crimped separately in the Lee Factory Crimp Die. This profiles the loaded round, executes a well-rounded crimp in the crimp groove and sizes the bullet by compression inside the case. Cast double-end wadcutters or DEWCs require heavier charges than hollow-based wadcutters (HBWCs) for best accuracy. I use 3.5 grains of Alliant Bullseye for a velocity of about 850 f.p.s. from a 6" revolver or 750 from a 2". I expect averages of 1.5" or better for an average of five consecutive 6-shot hand-held groups with iron sights at 25 yards. A good shot with young eyes should be able to approach an inch. My Colt Officer’s Model Match with its 14�? twist did its best at 1.2�? with Rooster Jacket. Good guns are capable of better off a Ransom Rest, but that is the best a 59-year-old can do hand-held and is a useful benchmark. Firing these loads from my BSA Martini Cadet with Green Mountain 16�? twist and .357 Magnum chamber with .38 AMU-style 3-degree forcing cone and 6X Unertl small game telescope, a series of ten consecutive 5-shot groups at 25 yards, 0.84�? with the smallest group 0.56�? and the largest 1.09�?. Commercial hard cast bullets of 92-6-2 alloy, sized, to .357�? or 358�? diameters did not shoot as well as un-sized wheel weight cast bullets lubed with LLA or RJ. The Remington soft swaged HBWC bullets shot wonderfully when flush seated, using the black dry lube which comes on them. None of the cast double-enders grouped as well in revolvers when flush seated as they did seated out and crimped in the crimp groove. Remington hollow-based wad cutters shot consistently well, even with somewhat lighter and heavier charges than those usually recommended. I found that a somewhat heavier charge of Alliant Bullseye, than the often recommended 2.7-2.8 grains was needed with the HBWC bullets to approximate the velocity of factory wad cutter loads. With current Alliant product a charge in the range of 3.0 to 3.2 grains is correct. Fifty-yard results are revealing. The best factory wad-cutter loads I’ve tested in the Martini are of historical interest, Remington-Bridgeport production used by the U.S. Pistol Team in the 1960 Olympic Games. It averaged 1.16�? at 50 yards for ten consecutive 5-shot groups from the scoped BSA Martini. Norma 158-grain lead, round nosed ammo from the mid 1980s averaged 1.6�? at 50 yards. The new Winchester wad cutter was disappointing, one group containing a keyhole which enlarged it to almost six inches, the best group was just under two inches and five targets averaged of over three inches. Sellier & Belliot (Czech import) shot fairly well, averaging about two inches. Of the factory swaged hollow based wad cutters sold for hand loading only Remington’s consistently averaged less than 2�? from the scoped martini at fifty yards. The often recommended 2.8 grain charge of Bullseye averaged 1.8�?, but increasing the charge to 3 grains shrunk the average to an inch and a half. The Remington 158-gr. Lead SWC flat base of .358 diameter loaded to 1.45�? overall with 3.5 grains of Bullseye was a pleasant surprise which averaged an inch and a half. Speer’s 158-gr. Lead Round nose with 3.5 grains of Bullseye shot as well as my prized lot of Norma LRN. Saeco #348 double-ender, loaded unsized, and crimped in the crimp groove over 3.5 grains of Bullseye averaged 1.87�? at 50 yards, which agrees with Harrison’s observations of many years ago. 190-grain and 150-grain versions of the NEI #161A, (a blackpowder design, with large meplat) loaded with 3.5 grains of Bullseye also averaged about an inch and a half at 50 yards, slightly better than the wad cutter. Because a couple shot holes with the 190-grain version showed slight yaw at 50 yards, I increased the charge slightly to improve stability. A charge of 4.2 grains of Bullseye, crimped in the top lubricating groove at 1.55�? overall length averaged 0.87�? with the largest group 1.07�? and the smallest 0.61! THAT got my attention! It was time to try .357 Magnum brass. Seating the 190-gr. NEI #161A in the normal crimp groove using .357 brass the cartridge OAL is 1.58�?. A charge of 4 grains of Bullseye gave 1000 f.p.s. from the BSA and averaged under an inch and a half. Increasing the charge to 4.3 grains enlarged groups slightly, but the average was still less than two inches. Increasing the charge still more to 4.5 grains enlarged groups further. So it was time to try a harder alloy. I bought some 190gr. LFN bullets from Hunter’s Supply which are the same design as the NEI #161A, but cast from harder 92Pb-6Sb-2Sn alloy. I also loaded some Winchester 158-grain jacketed hollow points in new virgin Winchester cases, with WSP primers and 14.5 grains of #2400 to provide a jacketed .357 benchmark. Hunter’s Supply hard cast .358�? diameter 190 LFNs with 4.3 grains of Bullseye averaged under an inch at 50 yards. Increasing the charge to 4.5 grains the harder alloy averaged 1.26�?, almost exactly half what my cast wheel weight metal bullets did when overdriven. Hand loaded Winchester 158 JHPs averaged an inch. So I decided to try 100 yards… And in addition to the Martini I tested the best loads also in my Marlin 1894 Cowboy Limited with 2.5X Weaver scope. The Norma 158-gr. LRN factory loads averaged just less than 3�? at 100 yards from the BSA, and 4�? from the Marlin. Hand loads with swaged lead round nose and semi-wad cutter ammo in .38 Special cases didn’t shoot as well, but did stay under 4 minutes of angle. The Hunter’s Supply 190 LFN of 92-6-2 alloy sized .358, with 4.3 grains of Bullseye in .357 cases averaging 2.18�? for five consecutive 5-shot groups at 100 yards in the BSA and 2.36�? in the Marlin. Supersonic cast loads did not group as well at 100 yards as the slower loads. This is because the faster cast bullet loads are subjected to transonic buffeting as their velocity decays below the speed of sound.

http://www.castbulletassoc.org/forum...383&forum_id=4

More bullet lube recipes:

Quote:      

2 oz by weight of soft container candle wax 3 oz by measurement of ATF (doesn't matter which type) 3 oz by measurement of Marvel Mystery Oil 1 heaping tablespoon Johnsons Paste Wax 1 tablespoon of powdered/shaved Ivory Soap 1 teaspoon of Lee Liquid Alox 1/4 teaspoon Permatex anti-seize lube Beeswax as needed to firm up to personal preference Let the container candle wax melt. I mix mine up in an old dollar store pot on top of a hot plate set at 350 F. When candle wax is completely melted, pour in 3 oz of ATF fluid. Stir in completely and continue to stir for at least one or two minutes until mix has come back up to temperature. Add 3 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil. Repeat stiring until mix has come back up to temperature. Add the heaping tablespoon of JPW, repeat. Add the LLA. This will take a lot of stirring and you may need to increase the burner heat. Once mixed in, add a level tablespoon of Ivory soap powder/small shavings (I use a fine grater to get me the powder form). Stir in well. When you add the 1/4 teaspoon of Permatex, it will make the mixture swirl and separate and look like an old 60's/70's psychodelic light show. Enjoy while you continue to cook and stir. The stuff will not mix 100% in, but does blend in nicely upon cooling. Add in a couple of ounces of beeswax, stir in good then pour a sample out into a small container and let cool. I put the small container into the fridge. What you're looking for now is firmness. If you use a heater with your lubesizer or prefer to pan lube, you can add more beeswax for firmness/hardness. If you prefer a bit softer lube that flows well, check firmness by hand and add beeswax as needed. This is a pretty easy formula to mix up, doesn't require a double-boiler set up and you can manipulate the firmness by addition of beeswax. It shoots well for me and makes barrel cleanup a non-event. Enjoy.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=29683

[phyrbyrd87]

I'm obviously new, as my creds suggest, but i'm bitten by the speed bug. Currently i'm shooting a ruger m77 7mm mag with 120gr bt for deer, 160gr bt for black bear. Both have done very well for the given task. I recently picked up a ruger 1b in 7mm stw that I shoot 140gr bt out of (only load for it so far). Loading for the 7mm is listed around 3200 fps or so and for the 7mm stw 3700 fps depending on the book. My question is for my 30-06 m70. I currently shoot a 165gr hpbt (grandpas load) at well below moa, about .585 at 100 and 1.3 at 200. I'm always looking for more (speed and accuracy) and I was wondering why the consensus seems 50/50 on putting a 125 gr bt out of an '06 at around 3000fps or so, is acceptable on deer. My other guns do it faster and one of them at a lighter weight bullet. Niether of which have ever left me down out to 432yds. I guess i'm just wondering if i'm wasting my time on figuring out a load or if there is alot of knowledge behind the bigger is better theory, because i don't buy most of it.

[jimkim]

Are you wondering what diameter bullet to order? Check this chart out. Rifles / Centerfire Rifle Cartridges / Ballistics
I know it's incomplete, but hey at least they have a few listed.

303 link. http://www.303british.com/id1.html

[jimkim]

For those of you who are wondering what the maximum pressure of you cartridge is here are the SAAMI specs. Max Chamber Pressure - SAAMI Specs

Cartridge Pressure Standards

[jimkim]

JIMKIMKIT

MidwayUSA - Lyman "Reloading Handbook: 49th Edition" Reloading Manual Softcover
MidwayUSA - Lyman Chamfer and Deburring Tool
MidwayUSA - Lee Classic Cast Single Stage Press
MidwayUSA - MTM Universal Reloading Tray Compact 50-Round Plastic Gray
MidwayUSA - Hornady Powder Trickler
MidwayUSA - Frankford Arsenal Electronic Caliper 6" Stainless Steel
MidwayUSA - Lyman Pro 500 Magnetic Powder Scale 505 Grain Capacity
MidwayUSA - Lee Improved Powder Measure Kit
MidwayUSA - Lee Powder Funnel 22 to 45 Caliber
$198.39 on the date posted. You'll notice there is no priming tool or powder measure. These are more a luxury than a necessity. Add a set of dies, powder, primers, brass, and bullets and you should be ready to roll.

[jimkim]

Hey! Yet another link! Hornady

[jimkim]

Tips from Speer

1. Make sure primers are seated .003" to .005" BELOW FLUSH to insure reliable ignition.
2. Before chamfering case mouths, make sure the mouth is round and not dented. Running the neck about .100" will round bent mouths. No need to lube for this step.
3. On thin-necked cases like the 32-20, 38-40 and 44-40, we recommend that you seat and crimp in separate steps
4. Cleaning primer pockets with an RCBS primer pocket brush removes residue build-up that can cause hard seating.
5. Excessive oil in semi-automatic firearms can attract residue and cause malfunctions. Use oils sparingly.
6. Use a magnet to separate steel military cartridge cases from brass cases.
7. Keep powder scales at least three feet from fluorescent lights to prevent inaccurate readings.
8. If a carbide sizer die starts to scratch cases, it's likely that brass smears have built up on the insert. Use a piece of crocus cloth wrapped on a wood dowel to remove the smears Crocus cloth is in the sandpaper section of your hardware store.
9. Don’t use a knife or nail to clean primer pockets. These damage the pocket walls and can cause gas leaks.
10. Check cases fired in semi-auto firearms for rim burrs. These can cause malfunctions. Remove with a fine file.
11. Tumble cases first, then resize/deprime.
12. Sort cases by manufacturer. It is the first step in giving you more uniform handloads.
13. Reloading military rifle brass that may have been fired in an automatic could require resizing with a Small Base Die (available from RCBS) to ensure they fit in your commercial chamber. Only needed for the first resizing.
14. When weighing powder, set your measure to throw a few tenths grain light, then trickle powder into the pan on the scale to achieve the proper weight.
15. After you determine the proper seating depth for a particular bullet, make a dummy round to assist in setting-up the seating die in the future. Leave it unprimed, label it with a marker, and store in your die box.
16. If you must decap live primers, wear eye and hearing protection and use slow, steady pressure to lessen the chance of detonation. Do not allow decapped live primers to build up in the primer catcher.
17. Remove crimps found on many military primer pockets before reloading the cases. RCBS makes a dandy Pocket Swager to do this.
18. Shotshell primers marked "157" will only fit in olderRemington cases (60's and early 70's vintage). They are too small for use in newer shotshell casings.
19. A VERY light touch of case lube inside the neck of the case will stop that annoying noise made when the case is pulled over the expander ball. So will a clean expanded ball.
20. To lube a large quantity of cases, spread newspaper and spray the cases with RCBS Spray Lube, then discard the newspaper.
21. Both CCI "Mil-Spec" primers (Nos. 41 and 34) are MAGNUM primers and intended for use in military-style semi-auto rifles where a slam-fire may occur. Don't substitute for standard primers without adjusting the load.
22. The 7.62x39mm cartridge generally use 123 grain .310" diameter bullets (like Speer's #2213). Smaller .308" bullets may not give acceptable accuracy.
23. Inspect cases before and after resizing. Crush bad ones with a pair of pliers to ensure they do not get back into the "good cases" later.
24. No, it's not a good idea to substitute Rifle primers for Pistol primers, even though they may fit in the primer pocket. There are several differences that affect safety and reliability.
25. A felt-tip marker can be used to identify loaded cartridges of different bullet weights that appear the same after loading (example, 130 gr. and 150 gr. .270 caliber bullets). Bright colors make identification easier.
26. Old double-door-style dart boards (garage sale item?) can be converted into great storage cabinets for loading dies.
27. In areas where it is legal and proper to shoot from a vehicle (ex., prairie dog hunts), a piece of heater hose split lengthwise will slip over the car window glass and give you an adjustable rest. It also protects your gun and window, and allows you to close the window.
28. Hunting in the rain? A dab of masking tape over the end of the barrel will keep the rain out. Shoot through it if needed, or remove before firing.
29. Have a "cross-over" problem? Your master-eye is not the one you use for shooting. Put a strip of that "frosty" cellophane tape on wax paper. Cut or punch out a 1/4" dot, peel it of and place it in the center of your master eye on your shooting glasses. This forces you to use the eye that's behind the sights.
30. Do your favorite "sneakin' and creepin" hunting boots squeak? Sprinkle baby powder in them. Then the only noise that big buck will hear is your heavy breathing.
31. "Keep your powder dry" is still good advice today. So are, "avoid temperature extremes," "not in sunlight" and "store in its original container".
32. Thinking about adding an extension to your powder measure hopper so it will hold more? BAD IDEA! The hopper height is sized by the manufacturer so measures will burn, not explode, in a fire.
33. Use 1000 ft-lbs energy as an approximate minimum for reliable stopping power for deer, and 1500 ft-lbs for elk. Let's not leave wounded game in the field.
34. When you're flying to a hunt on a commercial airline, remember: the ammunition and the gun cannot be in the same piece of luggage.
35. If you are going on that "hunt of a lifetime" with your custom 436 Doublenecker Improved Waldogrinder, ship some ammunition ahead to the outfitter. Exotic places seldom sell exotic ammunition.
36. When developing a new load, load 4 or 5 rounds, then test them for feed, fit, and function in your firearm (observing all safety rules, of course). It is far easier to pull a few bullets than it is a hundred or more.