Military 45 ACP Brass For reloading

shooter1 · 10-12-2006, 12:20 PM

To anyone with relaoding experience who can answer this.

While on Ebay looking for 45acp brass I came across several auctions that had brass and said they seperated out the millitary brass.

Quesion One- Is
Military brass not very desirable for reloading?
Question Two- If it is not very good, then why?

Note: I should let you all know I have just started reloading.

lefty o · 10-12-2006, 01:00 PM

the issue with military brass is the crimped primers. ive never had an issue with it in .45acp. now 9mm with crimped primers is a whole nother story.

shooter1 · 10-12-2006, 01:15 PM

Thanks for responding.
How does the crimped brass affect the reloading process? Are they hard to press out? Or do the not accept new primers very well?

This reply is for anyone.

thanks

jerry · 10-12-2006, 03:52 PM

I haven't had much trouble with crimped primers in .45 ACP either. RCBS and Dillon among others I'm sure make a tool to swage them to propper size. I have my own technique if they are not to bad. Some will banish me to reload h_ll, I take my debur tool and slightly champfer the crimp portion. It don't take much.

Indy · 10-12-2006, 06:31 PM

I have never had a problem with 45 military brass. Military rifle brass is a different story. I know several manufacturers make tooling for crimped primer removal. I personally like the Lee tool which consists of a punch set and base to drive out the primer. I then remove the crimp with a primer pocket reamer and use a RCBS swage tool on my O press to open the pocket.
I know your question was for pistol brass, but it's good to know before buying any military brass what one must do.
Military brass has a stronger web for gas rifle extraction. Sometimes commercial brass has the head pulled off during extraction. I anneal the case necks before sizing. I take a metal pan filled with about an inch of water, heat the case neck until red, then tip it over in the water. The softening of the case neck reduces the problem of neck splits when seating a new bullet.
It's worth it to buy military brass from Midway with the crimp and primer removed.
Indy

Pumpkinheaver · 10-12-2006, 07:32 PM

Jerry, I use the same method to remove the crimp as you do.

jerry · 10-12-2006, 07:53 PM

Cool Pumpkin heaver. I feel better now.

shooter1 · 10-14-2006, 10:04 PM

Thanks again for the info. Iwill purchase my 45ACP brass accordingly.

Calvin · 10-15-2006, 05:44 AM

Also, the military case holds less powder than a commercial case because the web is thicker, like Indy stated about the military rifle cases.

fred · 10-15-2006, 06:42 AM

I resized some military '06 brass to 270 Winchester once - that stuff was great because it was so rugged. I lost count of how many reloads I got out of it. The wall thickness was greater than commercial, so the net internal case volume was no doubt smaller: this would be a possible safety issue for people who wish to load to the max since higher pressures would likely result.

jerry · 10-15-2006, 04:48 PM

True Dat.

Recommend to reduce 10% & go from there

Dale · 10-15-2006, 10:35 PM

I now use, exclusively, Winchester primers and they seem more forgiving in the crimped pockets.

I don't ream crimped pockets and I have very little problems with handfun rounds. Perhaps one in fifty might give me problems.

I have more problems with the crimped rifle cases more than anything.

10-12-2006, 12:20 PM	#1
shooter1 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2006 Posts: 10	Military 45 ACP Brass For reloading To anyone with relaoding experience who can answer this. While on Ebay looking for 45acp brass I came across several auctions that had brass and said they seperated out the millitary brass. Quesion One- Is Military brass not very desirable for reloading? Question Two- If it is not very good, then why? Note: I should let you all know I have just started reloading.

10-12-2006, 01:15 PM	#3
shooter1 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2006 Posts: 10	Affects of crimped primers? Thanks for responding. How does the crimped brass affect the reloading process? Are they hard to press out? Or do the not accept new primers very well? This reply is for anyone. thanks

10-12-2006, 03:52 PM	#4
jerry Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Posts: 10,882 Images: 9 Blog Entries: 1	I haven't had much trouble with crimped primers in .45 ACP either. RCBS and Dillon among others I'm sure make a tool to swage them to propper size. I have my own technique if they are not to bad. Some will banish me to reload h_ll, I take my debur tool and slightly champfer the crimp portion. It don't take much. __________________ I'm a down home back woods redneck

10-12-2006, 07:32 PM	#6
Pumpkinheaver Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Missouri Posts: 1,340	Jerry, I use the same method to remove the crimp as you do. __________________ Just because your paranoid doesn't mean they aren't out to get you!

10-12-2006, 07:53 PM	#7
jerry Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Posts: 10,882 Images: 9 Blog Entries: 1	Cool Pumpkin heaver. I feel better now. __________________ I'm a down home back woods redneck

10-12-2006, 01:00 PM	#2
lefty o Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: mn Posts: 4,806	the issue with military brass is the crimped primers. ive never had an issue with it in .45acp. now 9mm with crimped primers is a whole nother story.

10-12-2006, 06:31 PM	#5
Indy Senior Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Indiana Posts: 334	I have never had a problem with 45 military brass. Military rifle brass is a different story. I know several manufacturers make tooling for crimped primer removal. I personally like the Lee tool which consists of a punch set and base to drive out the primer. I then remove the crimp with a primer pocket reamer and use a RCBS swage tool on my O press to open the pocket. I know your question was for pistol brass, but it's good to know before buying any military brass what one must do. Military brass has a stronger web for gas rifle extraction. Sometimes commercial brass has the head pulled off during extraction. I anneal the case necks before sizing. I take a metal pan filled with about an inch of water, heat the case neck until red, then tip it over in the water. The softening of the case neck reduces the problem of neck splits when seating a new bullet. It's worth it to buy military brass from Midway with the crimp and primer removed. Indy

10-14-2006, 10:04 PM	#8
shooter1 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2006 Posts: 10	Thanks again for the info. Iwill purchase my 45ACP brass accordingly.

10-15-2006, 05:44 AM	#9
Calvin Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Columbus, Ohio Posts: 2,000	Also, the military case holds less powder than a commercial case because the web is thicker, like Indy stated about the military rifle cases.

10-15-2006, 06:42 AM	#10
fred Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: NC, USA Posts: 184	I resized some military '06 brass to 270 Winchester once - that stuff was great because it was so rugged. I lost count of how many reloads I got out of it. The wall thickness was greater than commercial, so the net internal case volume was no doubt smaller: this would be a possible safety issue for people who wish to load to the max since higher pressures would likely result.

10-15-2006, 04:48 PM	#11
jerry Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Posts: 10,882 Images: 9 Blog Entries: 1	True Dat. Recommend to reduce 10% & go from there __________________ I'm a down home back woods redneck

10-15-2006, 10:35 PM	#12
Dale Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Too Dang Hot, Arizona Posts: 4,284	I now use, exclusively, Winchester primers and they seem more forgiving in the crimped pockets. I don't ream crimped pockets and I have very little problems with handfun rounds. Perhaps one in fifty might give me problems. I have more problems with the crimped rifle cases more than anything. __________________ "It confuses me how some people can vigorously go against the 2nd. Amendment and still call themselves patriotic"-me