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Old 07-18-2007, 03:41 AM   #21
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I save alot of money by reloading. Especially for calibres like the .330 Dakota and .375 H&H. But it opened the door to a whole new world, and i get alot of enjoyment from it, so even if it was costing me more i would still reload.
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Old 07-18-2007, 11:42 AM   #22
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Thumbs up Reloading

I started seeing how much money I was spending on factory stuff [ going up every week] and all the brass building up, so I got a Lee Classic Turrent. Now when I come back from the indoor range [ which doesn't reload] I get to pick up my brass and 95% comes home with me. When you come home, throw it in the tumbler and it's ready at my convenience to make more. If you shoot alot of pistol, or .223 and .308 it is a good feeling to know that you have your own supply. In the process, you learn alot about ammo, and can tune your pistol or rifle to the next level of accuracy. The press kit costs 149.00, and it has already paid for itself. Pistol reloads are easy, no case trimming necessary, but rifles are more complicated. It teaches you things you may need to know if things get crazy. It's a nice feeling of accomplishment to know that your tighter groups were made by you.
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Old 07-21-2007, 12:56 AM   #23
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if you have time and patients it's rewardable and money saving.
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Old 07-22-2007, 01:01 AM   #24
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Thumbs up

Ha!!!! Another reloading junkie is getting started..Too bad that you cant main line it. Its fun,stress reduceing and causes you to to 4 get how to spell some times. I find its like experementing and shooting for real tight groups a real blast..22-250, 25-06 and 300 wm. de3pending what and whwer you buy you can get started relitively easy in the wallet at first.
My advice is to choose your tools and gear wisely and shop around for
a fair deal.$300 for an all inclusive kit like cabellas has is well worth saving the head aches later..Read read read and you will find most of it interesting and heed the safety warnings!!!!! Have fun
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Old 07-22-2007, 09:44 PM   #25
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reloading has opened up firearm opportunity's for me.
for instance before i would not have even considered a gun chambered in .454 casull.
now its a possibility.
it makes feasible what would be prohibitively expensive otherwise.
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Old 07-24-2007, 10:42 AM   #26
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I've always been interested in handloading, and I think I may actually start later this year.

I have a question though...one of the more expensive components seems to be the brass. If I were to buy this brass: Cabela's -- Remington Unprimed Pistol Brass - Per 1,000 and use it to load a .45colt or .45acp in a moderate pressure setting, how many times could I typically reload the brass? Also, how does one know that you shouldn't load that brass casing again?

Another thing, I was going to buy this to just try stuff out and get started: Cabela's -- Lee Anniversary Reloading Kit

It comes with a a cutter and lock stud to trim cases (which you have to purchase an extra part depending on what caliber you are trimming). Do you have to trim cases often? I'm guessing that after being fired, the brass lengthens slightly? ...This kind of confused me.

Last question...if I was to buy that kit, I could only need to buy these dies to get started: Cabela's -- Lee Carbide Pistol Dies right?

Thanks for the help guys
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Old 07-24-2007, 11:07 AM   #27
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It,s the easiest way I know of keeping my wife irritated. sam.
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Old 07-24-2007, 03:28 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bravo View Post
I've always been interested in handloading, and I think I may actually start later this year.

I have a question though...one of the more expensive components seems to be the brass. If I were to buy this brass: Cabela's -- Remington Unprimed Pistol Brass - Per 1,000 and use it to load a .45colt or .45acp in a moderate pressure setting, how many times could I typically reload the brass? Also, how does one know that you shouldn't load that brass casing again?

Another thing, I was going to buy this to just try stuff out and get started: Cabela's -- Lee Anniversary Reloading Kit

It comes with a a cutter and lock stud to trim cases (which you have to purchase an extra part depending on what caliber you are trimming). Do you have to trim cases often? I'm guessing that after being fired, the brass lengthens slightly? ...This kind of confused me.

Last question...if I was to buy that kit, I could only need to buy these dies to get started: Cabela's -- Lee Carbide Pistol Dies right?

Thanks for the help guys
Ok Sam. One question at a time I'll answer to the best of my limlted knowledge. Anyone finds a mistake here PLEASE chime in asap.
I can't say about ACP brass but for .45 LC brass I have been reloading since late 2005 and have just recently thrown some Winchester brass away! And that is useing moderate loads; loads below the maximum recomemded by SAAMI (Small Arms Ammunition Manufactures Institute). The same holds true for Starline brass and CBC and Remmington- Peters. I find that I can use these brass cases at least twenty times or more.
I recommend that you do not use nickle plated brass as I find that this type of brass starts to split after four or five reloads useing moderate loads.
As to knowing when to discard brass--- when it shows signs of spliting at the top or a shiny ring appears around the case's base i.e. the head of the case near the bottom or where the rim is. A bluged case, a partilly pushed out primer,or anything that may cause you concern.
Trimming get yourself a calipher form measureing and a good reloading manual they all have the proper dimentions of cartriges listed measure the case and if it exceeds the listed length it is time to trim it when the case is trimmed to it's minimum length it is time to replace it.

You may buy the carbide dies or the steel ones, with the steel ones you have to lube the brass. I have been useing steel dies and have yet to use the carbide ones. But I just bought some carbide ones for my reloading of the .460 S&W XVR haven't used them yet but will in the near future.
Hope this helps!
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Old 07-24-2007, 04:50 PM   #29
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Thanks for the reply.

A quick question about .45 bullets. I see on Cabela's that they come in .452" and .451" diameter. Why the difference? Do the .45acp and .45colt use different diameter bullets?
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Old 07-24-2007, 06:59 PM   #30
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.45s also come in .454, .458 possably larger the .454 is if I remember right for the older Colts and Colt clones The .452s fit todays' guns better.458 and larger are rifle rounds i.e. 45-70,45-90, 45-100 Black powder cartridge rifles. As I stated before I can't answer on the ACP but the .451 is the 'preferred' size for the .454 Casull as far as I know. If anyone can "improve" on my post PLEASE feel free to do so.

Last edited by Cyrille; 07-24-2007 at 07:05 PM.
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Old 07-24-2007, 09:13 PM   #31
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Ranges that don't reload

It's been raining here for 2 mos. The local indoor range doesn't reload. I pick up all the .45 & .223 I can find. Lately, I've been coming home with bags full of it. The guys there know me and they don't have to clean the area. If the brass is free, you really start to save, and I'm looking a hundreds of rounds waiting on my schedule. It's running me about 20 to 30 cents a round this way. When the wife flies out on business, the bench presses begin. The savings add up. You will need to know how to do this some day.
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Old 07-25-2007, 01:15 PM   #32
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Cyrille, I also shoot a .45colt. When handloading a .45colt, are you supposed to keep using the lead bullets that I've always bought (ie:Cabela's -- Magtech Cowboy Action Ammunition ) or if I reload, can I use jacketed ammo? I shoot my .45colt out of a Ruger Blackhawk, which has shot jacketed soft point +P ammo from buffalo bore.
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Old 07-30-2007, 10:58 AM   #33
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reloading has opened up firearm opportunity's for me.
for instance before i would not have even considered a gun chambered in .454 casull.
now its a possibility.
it makes feasible what would be prohibitively expensive otherwise.

And I just scratched that itch with a Taurus .454 Casull.

But I also shoot 10mm, 400 Cor-Bon, and 357 Sig. Couldn't afford to shoot it otherwise.

You always know it's time to reload when they only sell your ammo in boxes of twenty!

Last edited by gandog56; 07-30-2007 at 11:00 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 07-30-2007, 01:16 PM   #34
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Quick question guys...

How do you all buy Primers and Gunpowder? Cabelas and Midway tag on a $20 for each product every time you order them. Do you guys eat the $40 fee when purchasing supplies, or do you buy them elsewhere?

It would seem that this would make it less worth it to handload...
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Old 07-30-2007, 02:22 PM   #35
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Quote:
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Quick question guys...
How do you all buy Primers and Gunpowder? Cabelas and Midway tag on a $20 for each product every time you order them. Do you guys eat the $40 fee when purchasing supplies, or do you buy them elsewhere?
It would seem that this would make it less worth it to handload...
I buy all of my powder and primers locally as the prices usually aren't that much higher. I know some guys and clubs who'll put together a large order and split the shipping and haz-mat fees.
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Old 07-30-2007, 02:46 PM   #36
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Quick question guys...

How do you all buy Primers and Gunpowder? Cabelas and Midway tag on a $20 for each product every time you order them. Do you guys eat the $40 fee when purchasing supplies, or do you buy them elsewhere?

It would seem that this would make it less worth it to handload...
You can combine the powder and primers and only pay 20.00 once for the HAZ-MAT fee. I order in bulk. This saves me money compared to buying across the counter and I get what I need this way.

Last edited by Down South; 07-30-2007 at 02:51 PM.
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Old 08-25-2007, 07:40 PM   #37
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Don't save that much money. Because shoot more. Like the progressive press with APS primer system for making plinking ammo as can turn out 400 plus cartridges in 1 1/2 to 2 hours. However, there is always a bit of wiggle in the shell plate (causes .001 + - inches variation in seating depth).

So to load rifle loads for accuracy, for example, suggest you also have a good single stage press around as well for seating the bullets. You can march them out of the progressive into a loading block. Then use the single stage press to seat the bullet in the brass.
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Old 05-07-2008, 06:34 PM   #38
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I've been reloading .45 acp since about 1990 and I haven't thrown away a single piece just because it was worn out. Some have been fired so many times the headstamp is illegible. I throw them away when they crack or get damaged somehow. Other than that, they are good to go.

Of course the .45 is a low pressure cartridge. Magnum brass may not last as long.

Here is a little trick. Pick up about six to ten pieces in one hand. Without closing your hand, jingle them together. If one of them is starting to split, it will make a higher pitched sound, like a little bell. The regular cases will go "clink clink" The splitting one will go "Ting ting." Try it a few times until you can distinguish a splitting piece by sound. It is not hard. It helps to avoid finding a case with a split only after you have loaded it and wasted a primer.
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Old 05-07-2008, 07:44 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by Bravo View Post
I've always been interested in handloading, and I think I may actually start later this year.

I have a question though...one of the more expensive components seems to be the brass. If I were to buy this brass: Cabela's -- Remington Unprimed Pistol Brass - Per 1,000 and use it to load a .45colt or .45acp in a moderate pressure setting, how many times could I typically reload the brass? Also, how does one know that you shouldn't load that brass casing again?

Another thing, I was going to buy this to just try stuff out and get started: Cabela's -- Lee Anniversary Reloading Kit

...

Last question...if I was to buy that kit, I could only need to buy these dies to get started: Cabela's -- Lee Carbide Pistol Dies right?

Thanks for the help guys

you might find once fired brass alot cheaper, its a little more work to start with going through it the first time but its definatly cheaper. midwayusa.com has once fired brass on seasonal runs, you can get them to send you an emial when they get some in stock. its 74.99 for 1000 cases, but its mixed manufacturers. not sure if you would have same problem or not, but i got about 7 .380 cases out of my box on 500 9mm cases. also some cases my have flaws in them.

i started out with the lee anniversary kit, i used it only for .243 for a while, then i started out with a 9mm about 3 weeks ago. as far as price, its definatly cheap, but being a single stage press it took me a couple of hours to reload 150 rounds for the 9mm, but im weighing each charge, at least for now.
as far as rifles, its a fine press to start with
also many people dont like there powder despenser so you might want another. might as well get a digital scale to weigh charges if your gona use a methode that involves checking the weight of alot of charges.

as for the dies i would recomend carbide dies, very nice not having to lube cases. i would also recomend the deluxe 4 die set with the lee factory crimp die in it.
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Old 05-07-2008, 09:50 PM   #40
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Cyrille, I also shoot a .45colt. When handloading a .45colt, are you supposed to keep using the lead bullets that I've always bought (ie:Cabela's -- Magtech Cowboy Action Ammunition ) or if I reload, can I use jacketed ammo? I shoot my .45colt out of a Ruger Blackhawk, which has shot jacketed soft point +P ammo from buffalo bore.
Ciril must have went to the can.Yes you can use a jacketed bullet if it has a cannilure to get a good crimp.It must have a good crimp for a revolver or you will have ignition/pressure problems and possibly stick a bullet in the barrel.If you ever have a cartridge that doesnt seem right,check the bore before firing again.If you are getting partial burn,check your loading routine until you get it right. sam.
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