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Old 12-29-2007, 08:02 PM   #1
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Neck Size

Y neck size? And Y anneal?
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Old 12-29-2007, 08:57 PM   #2
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'Y' is not a word. Anyway, neck sizing save some wear and tear on the case. You're only resizing the neck so the rest of the cases doesn't get work hardened as quickly. Neck sizing can only be used on cases fired out of the same bolt action rifle. If you have two rifles in the same chambering and you use the same brass in both, the cases MUST be full length resized when switching rifles.
Annealing softens the brass after it gets work hardened from repeated firing and resizing. It extends case life.
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Old 12-29-2007, 09:41 PM   #3
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Sun is right.
When you fired the round you made it a perfect copy of the inside of your chamber. If you only neck size it you just reduce the opening to hold the next bullet. After a while your brass will get hard and brittle, annealing softens the brass again.
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Old 12-30-2007, 11:25 PM   #4
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I never considered anealing until I read this post and thought about a batch of my 22-250 fired brass that had problems chambering even after FLS . After I annnealed the shoulders to relieve the pressure, the brass did chamber with slightly more than moderate pressure on bolt closure. Hey it's simple and works. And I did trim to specs.
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Old 12-31-2007, 12:11 AM   #5
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How do you anneal cases?
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Old 12-31-2007, 12:31 AM   #6
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According to some threads, one guy heated the shoulder by rotating the case over just a candle flame, I used a small torch, rotating the case with a pliers then dropping the hot case in a container of water. Rcommended to do this in the dark to prevent overheating(cherry red) although I did mine in the light and second guessed it's temperature, not hot enough to sizzle when dropped in the water! This will leave a slight brass dis-color just below the shoulder which will polish out in the long run. I have purchased a battlepack of re=manufactured 30-06 (recovered components)that had this process done on the brass. Excellant ammo for my Garand!
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Old 12-31-2007, 05:17 AM   #7
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I dip the cases in graphite powder up past where you want to anneal,then get the lead pot going at about 500F,then i dip them in to where i want to anneal and hold them until its uncomforrtable,then i throw them in my water bucket that is NOWHERE near my lead pot.Water in a hot lead pot is evil.Then i tumble them and size them.
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Old 12-31-2007, 11:08 AM   #8
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Y actually is a letter and a word you simpleton. Thanks for the info. OOps, I guess info isn't a word! Darn, neither is oops! Well, the information received was greatly appreciated at any rate !
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Old 01-04-2008, 09:19 AM   #9
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Question

How often should you anneal? I only have one of each type rifle so do I only anneal the neck?
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Old 01-04-2008, 11:54 AM   #10
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You neck anneal to prevent cracking of the case. I don't anneal and my cases typically last about 20 loads. Probably would last much longer if I annealed every 10 loads or so -- assuming I could keep track.

Here is a good article on how to do it. Annealing temperature is 660 F. Metal typically starts to glow red closer to 900 F, so if you bring it up to a glow temp even in the dark, you have likely ruined the brass. Brass does not harden by quenching so you can just stick it in water to cool it before the heating goes down to the head end. Using the Lee case trimmer holder in a drill is a good trick. They work well for cheap case trimming and should work equally well for annealing.

June, 96 Cases

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Old 01-05-2008, 07:03 PM   #11
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Good info Ron! Will try that!
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Old 01-05-2008, 09:12 PM   #12
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i also lead pot anneal like irish murphy, however i leave the spent primers in the case and smoke the outside with a candle, hold till it gets hot, and toss into a tin of water. i reload for a few wildcats so it's in batches of no less then 50 and i try to anneal every 5 shots or so, and after, while the lead is still hot i'll flux and stir the pot, skim the top and cast some bullets for plinking in an old 303
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