How to tell when brass is no longer safe to load

Airweight38 · 07-23-2008, 12:19 PM

How can you tell when brass is past its prime? Specifically, straight handgun brass like 9mm and .38SPL. I know how to look for cracks and damage near the head, but aside from physical deformities, can I just assume that I can reload the same brass infinitely? I don't "do" hot loads, but who knows what the guys at the range are doing that's dropping their brass. Just looking for some input. Thanks! --/J

ArkansasHunter · 07-23-2008, 12:21 PM

Good Question and i'd like to know myself. I suppose when it blows up ain't a good answear. LOL

Mike Franklin · 07-23-2008, 12:26 PM

I bought 500 pieces of brass about 9 years ago. This stuff has been fired maybe 10 times each, some of it maybe more. It's starting to split, it's time to replace it. In a high power rifle I try not to use brass more than 4 times.

rebel727 · 07-23-2008, 12:27 PM

I just use it till it splits then toss it.

jimkim · 07-23-2008, 12:33 PM

Here is a site with a few tips. Make sure you get some calipers to measure your cases with. Also keep track of how many times you had to trim your cases. That extra length didn't just grow there. lol The gym clip test is good too.
Shakey Pete's Shootin' Shack: Handloading: Case Inspection and Prep.

Airweight38 · 07-23-2008, 12:56 PM

Thanks for the link, jimkim. I didn't realize that about the primer pocket rings--definitely something I'll be looking for in the future.

samuel · 07-23-2008, 01:03 PM

When you keep your brass in lots and make a dated record it helps.If one fails you pitch all of it just in case. sam.

lefty o · 07-23-2008, 01:05 PM

with pistol brass, the casemouth will crack before you have to worry about anything else. if it cracks, toss it. most loading manuals will show you nice pictures of what to look for before your brass fails.

rebel727 · 07-23-2008, 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lefty o

with pistol brass, the casemouth will crack before you have to worry about anything else. if it cracks, toss it. most loading manuals will show you nice pictures of what to look for before your brass fails.

Rifle brass cracks in the neck, sometimes in the shoulder. My 44-40's tend to crack in the case body.

wunhunglo · 07-23-2008, 01:49 PM

Annealing the bottleneck rifle cartridges neck & shoulders every so many firings will enhance there life a bit.

jimkim · 07-23-2008, 02:24 PM

I found an old article where the guy Anneals his brass in molten lead. I had never even thought of this.

gandog56 · 07-23-2008, 10:19 PM

When the necks crack. I shoot them to destruction.

Cyrille · 07-23-2008, 10:43 PM

Pistol brass Straight sided---- wheither used in a rifle or pistol/revolver will usually show cracks starting at the neck Rifle brass when a "shiney" ring appears around and just below the head of the case. This goes for pistol brass also, but usually the neck of the case will develop cracks first. You may also notice a crack in the middle of the case, this rare but it does happen.

paparoach429 · 07-23-2008, 10:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimkim

Here is a site with a few tips. Make sure you get some calipers to measure your cases with. Also keep track of how many times you had to trim your cases. That extra length didn't just grow there. lol The gym clip test is good too.
Shakey Pete's Shootin' Shack: Handloading: Case Inspection and Prep.

hahah lmao

rebel727 · 07-24-2008, 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cyrille

. You may also notice a crack in the middle of the case, this rare but it does happen.

Tell that to my 44-40's

GlockMeister · 07-24-2008, 04:47 PM

From what I've read or been reading in the books, the one sure way to find out is, before you even go to load then inspect each and every one to be sure. The books had/have some pictures and showed some signs and or indicators. What got my attention, was how you can think the cause can be from over use but instead could be from say improper headspace or some other cause. In this aspect, and truthfully in many others, I've found the books that many here suggested, to be invaluable.

Thanks for the link, to a newbie reloader such as myself, they're great. Good thread/post/question as well Airweight38. Thanks!

GlockMeister · 07-24-2008, 04:51 PM

How many of you guys use or have even done, or tried the annealing process yourselves? Seems to me you'd have to be pretty experienced in both reloading and metallurgy before even beginning to attempt it?

jimkim · 07-25-2008, 02:31 PM

Well I guess no one else will take this. I have. I don't do it very often just when my brass feels a little different. It feels different when it gets work hardened. It isn't as smooth. I follow the directions. Put the brass in a pan of water. Take a propane torch hold it directly over the case. When the brass turns a light blue I take the torch off. Some people tip the case over and quench the brass. I prefer to let it cool slowly. I don't know if it makes a difference. The way I was trained to anneal metal was to slowly bring it up to the annealing temp, then let it cool slowly. I'm sure someone will say you need to quench the brass.

Check out neat annealing machine in video. I want it!!! I want it!!!
http://accurateshooter.wordpress.com...to-your-brass/

wunhunglo · 07-25-2008, 02:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GlockMeister

How many of you guys use or have even done, or tried the annealing process yourselves? Seems to me you'd have to be pretty experienced in both reloading and metallurgy before even beginning to attempt it?

It's a very easy process for someone to do. I've done it fairly often but unlike Jimkin, I quench! Works for me so why change!

jimkim · 07-25-2008, 02:43 PM

See I told you. Some do some don't both work. So why change? Take a look at the art and science of annealing.
http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html

07-23-2008, 12:19 PM	#1
Airweight38 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Kansas City Posts: 145	How to tell when brass is no longer safe to load How can you tell when brass is past its prime? Specifically, straight handgun brass like 9mm and .38SPL. I know how to look for cracks and damage near the head, but aside from physical deformities, can I just assume that I can reload the same brass infinitely? I don't "do" hot loads, but who knows what the guys at the range are doing that's dropping their brass. Just looking for some input. Thanks! --/J

07-23-2008, 12:26 PM	#3
Mike Franklin Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Poteet, Texas Posts: 1,276	I bought 500 pieces of brass about 9 years ago. This stuff has been fired maybe 10 times each, some of it maybe more. It's starting to split, it's time to replace it. In a high power rifle I try not to use brass more than 4 times. __________________ Aim real good we're nearly out of ammo.

07-23-2008, 12:27 PM	#4
rebel727 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Heidelberg, Mississippi Posts: 1,545	I just use it till it splits then toss it. __________________ North-1 South-0 HALFTIME!

07-23-2008, 12:33 PM	#5
jimkim Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Near the Little Ocmulgee river in GA Posts: 2,048 Blog Entries: 11	Here is a site with a few tips. Make sure you get some calipers to measure your cases with. Also keep track of how many times you had to trim your cases. That extra length didn't just grow there. lol The gym clip test is good too. Shakey Pete's Shootin' Shack: Handloading: Case Inspection and Prep. __________________ Jan. 4, 2007...Gasoline $2.10/gallon HMMM? Jim

07-24-2008, 04:47 PM	#16
GlockMeister Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Northern Illinois Posts: 5,483	From what I've read or been reading in the books, the one sure way to find out is, before you even go to load then inspect each and every one to be sure. The books had/have some pictures and showed some signs and or indicators. What got my attention, was how you can think the cause can be from over use but instead could be from say improper headspace or some other cause. In this aspect, and truthfully in many others, I've found the books that many here suggested, to be invaluable. Thanks for the link, to a newbie reloader such as myself, they're great. Good thread/post/question as well Airweight38. Thanks! __________________ I'd rather be tried by 12 than carried by 6!

07-23-2008, 12:21 PM	#2
ArkansasHunter Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: South Arkansas Posts: 10,697	Good Question and i'd like to know myself. I suppose when it blows up ain't a good answear. LOL

07-23-2008, 12:56 PM	#6
Airweight38 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Kansas City Posts: 145	Thanks for the link, jimkim. I didn't realize that about the primer pocket rings--definitely something I'll be looking for in the future.

07-23-2008, 01:03 PM	#7
samuel Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 5,087	When you keep your brass in lots and make a dated record it helps.If one fails you pitch all of it just in case. sam.

07-23-2008, 01:05 PM	#8
lefty o Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: mn Posts: 4,804	with pistol brass, the casemouth will crack before you have to worry about anything else. if it cracks, toss it. most loading manuals will show you nice pictures of what to look for before your brass fails.

07-23-2008, 01:49 PM	#10
wunhunglo Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: currently "Sunny West Africa" Posts: 1,658	Annealing the bottleneck rifle cartridges neck & shoulders every so many firings will enhance there life a bit.

07-23-2008, 10:19 PM	#12
gandog56 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Montgomery, IL. Posts: 4,313	When the necks crack. I shoot them to destruction.

07-23-2008, 10:43 PM	#13
Cyrille Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: South Louisiana Posts: 1,850	Pistol brass Straight sided---- wheither used in a rifle or pistol/revolver will usually show cracks starting at the neck Rifle brass when a "shiney" ring appears around and just below the head of the case. This goes for pistol brass also, but usually the neck of the case will develop cracks first. You may also notice a crack in the middle of the case, this rare but it does happen.

07-24-2008, 04:51 PM	#17
GlockMeister Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Northern Illinois Posts: 5,483	How many of you guys use or have even done, or tried the annealing process yourselves? Seems to me you'd have to be pretty experienced in both reloading and metallurgy before even beginning to attempt it? __________________ I'd rather be tried by 12 than carried by 6!

07-25-2008, 02:31 PM	#18
jimkim Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Near the Little Ocmulgee river in GA Posts: 2,048 Blog Entries: 11	Well I guess no one else will take this. I have. I don't do it very often just when my brass feels a little different. It feels different when it gets work hardened. It isn't as smooth. I follow the directions. Put the brass in a pan of water. Take a propane torch hold it directly over the case. When the brass turns a light blue I take the torch off. Some people tip the case over and quench the brass. I prefer to let it cool slowly. I don't know if it makes a difference. The way I was trained to anneal metal was to slowly bring it up to the annealing temp, then let it cool slowly. I'm sure someone will say you need to quench the brass. Check out neat annealing machine in video. I want it!!! I want it!!! http://accurateshooter.wordpress.com...to-your-brass/ __________________ Jan. 4, 2007...Gasoline $2.10/gallon HMMM? Jim Last edited by jimkim; 07-25-2008 at 02:38 PM.

07-25-2008, 02:43 PM	#20
jimkim Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Near the Little Ocmulgee river in GA Posts: 2,048 Blog Entries: 11	See I told you. Some do some don't both work. So why change? Take a look at the art and science of annealing. http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html __________________ Jan. 4, 2007...Gasoline $2.10/gallon HMMM? Jim Last edited by jimkim; 07-25-2008 at 02:48 PM.