Breaking in a Kimber

[twisterx44]

Well I finally decided on a Kimber 1911, and am going to pick it up later this week. What I've read is there is a 400-500 round "break-in" period where the gun will likely have some malfunctions. Some people blame bad factory magazines, others just say its due to Kimber's tight tolerances, and once it loosens up a bit from firing, will go away.

I want to get the unreliable first 500 rounds out of the way so I can start really using it confidently.

I'll probably pick up either 2 wilson combat mags or 2 Kimber Tac mags. Or maybe one of each.

As far as "breaking it in" though, how should I do this? This is my first 1911 and first handgun, so I'm new at this.

before I shoot, should I lube anything?

Should I clean every _____ shots?

Does the type of ammunition matter? 500rds of .45ACP is going to run somewhere between 220 and 250. Midway has 500rds of remanufactured Black Hills FMJ for 230. Would those work ok?

I am just trying to find out as much about the gun before I get it as possible.

Thanks,

twister

[jerry]

Mine had no malfunctions during the break in period. I used 230 grain hard ball. My reloads. I cleaned my customII upon recieving it as I do with all new guns. I cleaned it every 100 rounds, by my own choice. If I could shoot 500 rounds at an all day session I'd feel confident cleaning when I was done. I did the every 100 rounds because I care about my weapons & it got put up as a working gun between the range sessions where I shot it 100 rounds each time. Took me about 7 months to get the 500 digested. I used the factory Kimber mad and a couple of Norinco's I had on hand.

[twisterx44]

Thanks Jerry. Perhaps I'll try a 250rd string over a week or so, and see what happens.

What exactly did you "clean?"

Solevent over the moving parts and then lube?

Sorry, VERY new to handguns.

[GlockMeister]

Clean it before first use then lube per manual. Congrats and enjoy.
I look forward to the day I get a Kimber, it is on my wish/want list.

I want either one of these.
http://www.kimberamerica.com/pistols/compactprocarry/pro_tle_II_(LG)/
or
Kimber - Continuing The Legacy

Which model did you decide on?

[twisterx44]

I'm going to look at two 5" models (or in Kimbertalk, "Customs") tomorrow, the Custom II and TLE II. Both very similar. Later on down the road I may install some CT laser grips, but 850 is basically my budget cap and I found the TLE at a local store for 819.00 I think?

When you say "clean it" first...take solevant and remove greese? There won't be any gunpowder residue...what do I clean? Any area where there is metal on metal contact/movement?

[GlockMeister]

Just buy yourself a good CLP (Cleaner/Lubricant/Protectant) (ask where your buying the Kimber at if they have any or to get you some). It will clean it, lube it and protect it, obviously. I use Gun Sav'r. I believe Remington makes a good one also. You can also use it after every time you shoot it. Also pick yourself up a bottle of Hoppes powder solvent and you can run a patch or 2 soaked with it down the barrel then use the CLP. That's the method I've used for years. I'd add that once they came out with those great inventions bore snakes, I use them exclusively for all. No worry of marring up your riffling or anything. Some use bore guides. With the/a bore snake it's not necessary to use one.

[twisterx44]

I've never heard of CLP...wow. I hope I'm not cleaning my rifles incorrectly...I use Hoppes liquid solevant to remove gunpowder residue, dirt, etc, then I lube it back up...


for the barrel I run a few patches with Hoppes solevant and then a few dry patches and then one with lube...

Does that work?

CLP is a one step proccess?

[jerry]

There are a lot of cleaning/lube products out there & has caused some pretty spirited discusions here and elsewhere. If your using a quality product commercially available designed for firearms, your good to go. You will eventually stumble upon (after sever experimentations) a brand/system that works well for you. Trying different stuff is half the fun. You may notice ease of use, time savings and general feel mechanically of some of the various products. The environment you live in can be a factor too. Over oiling is not generally recommended, especially in a dry dusty environment.

Look at the 1911 forums here at G&G. There have been many good post on 1911's

Here is another great source for the old timer 1911 guy or gal or the newbie as well. Enjoy.
http://www.m1911.org/technic.htm
http://www.cylinder-slide.com/cleaning.htm

[GlockMeister]

The military has been using a CLP for years. As long as you use a quality lube, after you use the powder solvent and then clean it with a patch to make sure all the dirt,whatever is out, then use a good lube designed for firearms as Jerry mentioned, you're indeed alright and good to go. If it wasn't working I'm sure you'd of noticed by now. But they've come out with so much advance stuff in recent years, it might be a good idea to try a few.

Here's one of the most advanced and newest I think. Look or rather check out the video of the Para 1911 where gun butter was used and then 1000 shots were fired in like 10 minutes...
Here's the link to the Gun Butter itself >Purchase Gun Butter
and here's the link to the video >DOWN RANGE TELEVISION with Michael Bane - Show #1: 1-ON-1 with Todd Jarrett

But seriously, check out whats on the market, as there's a lot now. You will find something else that not only works better but is more cost efficient and works better and takes much less time to use...

[Minionsram]

Originally Posted by twisterx44

I've never heard of CLP...wow. I hope I'm not cleaning my rifles incorrectly...I use Hoppes liquid solevant to remove gunpowder residue, dirt, etc, then I lube it back up...


for the barrel I run a few patches with Hoppes solevant and then a few dry patches and then one with lube...

Does that work?

CLP is a one step proccess?

Check out some of the hoppes eleite, you will be amazed with the proformance. Also a good rule of thumb to break in any firearm is this. Start with a freshly cleaned firearm<to make sure no dust or dirt from transporting>

Fire 1 round and run a patch with a good lube down the barell
fire 3 rounds and patch
fire 3 rounds and patch.......ect
Do about 20 or so rounds with that above process. This will lap your barell and get any tiny shavings left over from the manufacturing process out. I know Kimber probally done something simular, but dont forget they are a manufacturing plant who pushes out many firearms that are handled by people, and things can be overlooked.

Do the same with the internal actions. You don't have to break it down after 3 rounds like running the patch, but I would at least pull off the slide and wipe it down after your first 100 rnds. You will be lapping the slide rails this way. If you dont clean it the minute particles will grind away untill they are cleaned..

Now you may ask yourself.... do I really need to do all this? No. But it is a good practice to atleast break in the barell this way to maintain the utmoast accuracey.

But I am seen as ones around here In SC and the picky as hell, crazy fool, whos firearms can be eaten off of at any time they are so clean and well taken care of. They may have dents, dings, and scratches, But I have NEVER had a firearm fail me in time of need!

Oh and I about forgot about the rest of your message. I use lead rounds for the break in period if the firearm can cycle them with out problem. The reason is the lead is softer and will conform to the rifleing in the barrel alittle better than JHP or something of the Jacketed family.

Also I love anything that wilson combat, or Chip Mcormac puts out. And Finally read the manual, alot of persons dont read the care procedures and dont put grease where needed or clean when needed. No one knows that firearm better than the manufacture of it.

[twisterx44]

Awesome posts everyone, just about answer all of my questions. This is why i love GG.

Whats the difference between liquid solevant and powder solevant?

[GlockMeister]

Powder solvent is a liquid. Hoppes #9 powder solvent is anyways. I would think a liquid solvent is just that, liquid. lol

[twisterx44]

Well thats confusing. I Have Hoppes #9 Solvent. Its just not powder...

[Iron_Colonel]

Originally Posted by GlockMeister

Clean it before first use then lube per manual. Congrats and enjoy.
I look forward to the day I get a Kimber, it is on my wish/want list.

I want either one of these.
http://www.kimberamerica.com/pistols/compactprocarry/pro_tle_II_(LG)/
or
Kimber - Continuing The Legacy

Which model did you decide on?

I've got a Kimber Pro Carry TLE II but its minus the CT grips. I have a set of CT grips, but I haven't tried them on my Kimber yet. I might have to do that. I think you'd like either one. I like my Kimber because it has a steel slide instead of an alloy one. I suppose either are good guns, and there will be a little weight difference. I shot it today, put almost about 150 rds through it. I just had a few here and there that didn't load all the way in the barrel, so I had to finish the cycle for it. Other than that, it shot well. I was doing pretty well rapid firing as fast as I could get the target back on about a 7 inch diameter round steel target probably at about 10 yds. Thats about 300 rds I have put through it since I bought it new. I am also looking into some after market mags for it as well. I have heard the Kimber Tac mags are pretty good. I guess I'll have to pick some up. There are some gun shows coming up local, will have to check them out. But I don't think you'd be disappointed with a Kimber. It is a nice tight shooting pistol. I like the night sights on it and the checkering on the front strap of the frame. What surprised me is the main spring housing is plastic, but it still has checkering on it. No problems with it, so I assume everything is ok with it then. I suppose they wouldn't have made it that way if it didn't work.

Originally Posted by twisterx44

Well I finally decided on a Kimber 1911, and am going to pick it up later this week. What I've read is there is a 400-500 round "break-in" period where the gun will likely have some malfunctions. Some people blame bad factory magazines, others just say its due to Kimber's tight tolerances, and once it loosens up a bit from firing, will go away.

I want to get the unreliable first 500 rounds out of the way so I can start really using it confidently.

I'll probably pick up either 2 wilson combat mags or 2 Kimber Tac mags. Or maybe one of each.

As far as "breaking it in" though, how should I do this? This is my first 1911 and first handgun, so I'm new at this.

before I shoot, should I lube anything?

Should I clean every _____ shots?

Does the type of ammunition matter? 500rds of .45ACP is going to run somewhere between 220 and 250. Midway has 500rds of remanufactured Black Hills FMJ for 230. Would those work ok?

I am just trying to find out as much about the gun before I get it as possible.

Thanks,

twister

I like to clean all my guns if I buy them new anyways. But the manual will have all of the info in it as far as cleaning goes. I think it even suggests that you clean it every so many shots too, as well as what parts should be cleaned and when they could be replaced. I'd tell you exactly what it says, but I can't find the manual right now.

I haven't encountered too many problems or troubles in the about 300 rds I have put through my new Pro Carry TLE II. I don't really like the mag though and I think thats where most of my problems have come from. IMO I think Kimber should include some nice Tac mags or something like that with the gun since the gun is so expensive in the first place.

As far as tight tolerances, its a pretty tight gun. I really like the feel of it. The take down procedure is a little odd at first, but you'll get the hang of it. I am not sure if its the same with the full size models. Mine is a Commander style 1911 with the 4" barrel. But its a piece of cake after a few tries.

I think you'll be happy with it. Let us know how it goes

Originally Posted by GlockMeister

The military has been using a CLP for years. As long as you use a quality lube, after you use the powder solvent and then clean it with a patch to make sure all the dirt,whatever is out, then use a good lube designed for firearms as Jerry mentioned, you're indeed alright and good to go. If it wasn't working I'm sure you'd of noticed by now. But they've come out with so much advance stuff in recent years, it might be a good idea to try a few.

Here's one of the most advanced and newest I think. Look or rather check out the video of the Para 1911 where gun butter was used and then 1000 shots were fired in like 10 minutes...
Here's the link to the Gun Butter itself >Purchase Gun Butter
and here's the link to the video >DOWN RANGE TELEVISION with Michael Bane - Show #1: 1-ON-1 with Todd Jarrett

But seriously, check out whats on the market, as there's a lot now. You will find something else that not only works better but is more cost efficient and works better and takes much less time to use...

Hahah LOL @ Todd Jarrett WOOOOOOO

[knightRider]

once you break yours down and clean it once you will get it . DON'T BE NERVOUS YOU CAN DO IT !!

[James41]

Never found anything unreliable about my TLE II. First time out i put 200 rounds through it. At 100 i broke it down and cleaned it using Hoppes #9 and some REM gun oil, then shot the next 100.

Have put about 2,000 rounds through it now and have no problems with it. Use it quite often as a concealed carry defense gun.

[knightRider]

Originally Posted by twisterx44

I've never heard of CLP...wow. I hope I'm not cleaning my rifles incorrectly...I use Hoppes liquid solevant to remove gunpowder residue, dirt, etc, then I lube it back up...


for the barrel I run a few patches with Hoppes solevant and then a few dry patches and then one with lube...

Does that work?

CLP is a one step proccess?

I like CLP the best . just me though

[Gunny]

On

[Gunny]

Let's try this again, on your TLE II when you carry what holster have you found the best. it is going to be my next one and will be using it for conceal. thanks!

[twisterx44]

Your going to conceal a full size 5" 1911? Or are you getting the pro, or some smaller one? Well I am 18, too young to conceal carry, but I open carry sometimes, and when I am at the range I have it open holstered as well. I use a Blackhawk Serpa Level 2 Retention Holster, and absolutely love it. I've never liked leather holsters, dunno why. I'm sure I'll get my head bitten off for it, but oh well.

Here's a Link. BLACKHAWK ! *BlackHawk CQC SERPA Holster - Active Retention - Matte Finish