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| Senior Member ![]() |
Just now clicked the pay now button...been wanting one for awhile...ya only live once: https://www.aeromedix.com/images/aer...mk1full_xl.jpg https://www.aeromedix.com/product-ex..._Folding_Knife Bought the large stone washed satin blade... Should be the last folding blade I ever buy...
__________________ U.S. Army 1976-1979 237th Combat Engineers Heilbronn, Germany |
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| | #2 | |
| Senior Member ![]() Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Tampa
Posts: 7,014
| Quote:
__________________ USAF '62-'66 ![]() . | |
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| | #3 |
| Senior Member ![]() |
The reviews this knife has been getting I really think it is the last... They also have a fixed blade version I might get later...
__________________ U.S. Army 1976-1979 237th Combat Engineers Heilbronn, Germany |
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| | #4 |
| Super Moderator ![]() ![]() |
Joe...you mean it's the last folding knife you'll have before the next one. It's like buying your last gun, the gun of all guns. Not so! Your collection will never be complete till you have one of my homemade knives in your collection. It's simple, but has perfect utility. Here's the directions for making a handy dandy homemade hunting knife. Supplies: -14" power hack saw blade -2 pieces of 8" length of solid oak wood 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 -2 aluminum pop rivets Steps: (caution-do not under any circumstances overheat the metal blade as you grind it to the desired shape) l. Break power hacksaw blade into two equal length pieces approx 7" long each 2. Have plenty of cold water available next to your bench grinder. 3. Grind the shape of your knife blade...leaving the serrated edge of the power hack saw as the top of your new knife. 4. To get two holes in the tang portion of the knife...use a dramel tool with a small grinding stone attachment to get holes which will later be used for the handle rivets. Forget about drilling those holes...because the metal should be too hard to drill. 5. Grind the knife edge to the desired shape...getting the working edge thinner and thinner till it's almost razor blade thin. 6. Shape the oak handle blands to fit your hands for a perfect grip. 7. Saw a thin slit down one end of the oak handle to receive the tang of your knife blade. 8. Insert knife blade and pre-drill two holes to receive rivets to attach handle to blade. 9. Insert rivet into hole...I recommend using an aluminum flat washer under the rivet to provide a wider surface. Personally, I used a hand-held pop rivet tool with a 3/16 dia. rivet. 10. Dip the oak handle in hot linwood seed oil and let dry as much as possible before rubbing off the excess. 11. Use whet stone to get the final edge on your blade. 12. Now...you should have one complete set of materials on hand for the second knife. This allows for making modifications because of what you've learned during the first knife making experience. P.S. The serrated top edge of the knife is for sawing through the breast bone when deer hunting...or for other sawing needs. Good luck! Ox
__________________ "If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right". Last edited by Oxford; 07-05-2007 at 09:39 AM. |
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| | #5 |
| Senior Member ![]() Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Tampa
Posts: 7,014
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Sounds good!
__________________ USAF '62-'66 ![]() . |
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| | #6 |
| Senior Member ![]() Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: South Arkansas
Posts: 10,912
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NRAJOE thanks for those pictures, my son is looking for another duty knife and one of these might be it ...A.H
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| | #8 |
| Senior Member ![]() |
Got here today...what an awesome folder! The "stone washed" blade is too cool...very handsome brute of a knife! SV30 steel is top of the line and very sharp! Didn't think you could improve on the Benchmade Axis knives but Doug Ritter did! They also make a small folder and a fixed blade version....hmmmm
__________________ U.S. Army 1976-1979 237th Combat Engineers Heilbronn, Germany |
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| | #9 |
| Senior Member ![]() Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Tampa
Posts: 7,014
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hmmmm,I rest my case!
__________________ USAF '62-'66 ![]() . |
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