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| Senior Member | Hey folks; I've found myself a machete that is too long. It wobbles a little and I believe making it shorter will stiffen it up and be more practical. I paid $10.00 for it, so if I do goof; it want hurt as bad. ![]() So what is the most practical way to remove about 2"-3"'s. I have grinder and metal plier type cutters.
__________________ Craig By the standards of most |
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| | #2 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Poteet, Texas
Posts: 1,276
| If the plier type cutters(?) will cut it just cut about 1 5/8 inches in roughly the shape you want then finish it up with a bastard file. You could use the grinder but when I've tried that it burned the metal. Jusy leave enough on the tip so you can remove any damaged material with the file. You cam also shape the grip to better fit the tang with a good file. 99% of the problems I've evr seen with a machete was caused by a poor grip/handle. BTW, if you have a little metal working skill you can make a great machete out of a car leaf spring (the flat ones on the suspension).
__________________ Aim real good we're nearly out of ammo. |
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| | #3 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: AL
Posts: 1,661
| Sounds like an accident looking for a place to happen! ![]() Go spend $15 or $20 and get you a good Cold Steel or Ontario. Thin machetes should be illegal!! Dang dangerous contraptions! This concludes the daily safety lecture! ![]()
__________________ "Those who stand for nothing fall for anything." - Alexander Hamilton |
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| | #4 |
| Senior Member ![]() Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Tampa
Posts: 6,870
| That's a fact! those thin ones tend to bounce/glance off of the material being cut,watch 'em!
__________________ USAF '62-'66 ![]() . |
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| | #5 |
| Senior Member Join Date: May 2007 Location: Montana
Posts: 471
| Since I was messaged to give my two cents here I will. When I am making a camp knife or a cutting competition knife there is a lot of things I want to have happen depending on the cutting that it will be doing, infact this goes for all the knives I make. Handle ergonomics is vital as it will help dictate balance path of the swing as it arcs ect and this all adds up to preventing hand fatigue is it Im my opinion the most common and most commonly overlooked reason for bad cuts. With the blade I like to have it the balance point not at the ricasso like most people assume is a good balance point (hold blade on finger at ricasso) Im sure everyone has seen or done it but I want the balance point in the guard or better where guard and index finger meet. This will make a faster blade and allow one to manipulate the handle IN the hand and not so much in the wrist, hand had more range of motion the ones wrist or at least extends the wrist range of motion is a better way of putting it. I also have a distal taper on all my blades no matter what, this makes a for a stronger blade and allow me to this quickly down the bevels to the cutting edge it also makes the blade VERY balanced. Also the thinner the spine of the blade in essence the thinner the blade the sharper it will be and more importantly will allow travel through the object your cutting to be smoother. Compare a fillet knife to a thicker spine knife for a visual. Thin doesn’t mean weak IF its of good steel and its heat treated properly something you wont find in any machete. As far as blade deflection that’s not caused by the blade being thin but by poor cutting technique. I will give Japanese swords (Nihonto) this as an example. Many are very thin compared to say a saber, now I mean real ones not mall ninja stuff! Here. Can they be bent during a cut; yes they can and often to the point of ruin but experienced practitioners of Iaido often make amazing cuts. If you ever see a video or demo of cutting and it’s done poorly study the technique used before jumping on the poor qualities of a blade. Must of it is parlor tricks. Rope cutting, paper tube cutting, 2x4-cutting ECT. You’d be able to do those things with every one of my knives that you see in some knife manufactures advertisements IF you practiced enough. As for truck springs not all and few now these days are 5160 which is a carbon steel, I have seen some knifemakers use springs work hours to make a knife only to find out it doesn’t even harden, same goes for lawnmower blades. If you’re going to grind, have a bucket of water handy, when you feel the blade getting to warm to hold with bare hands, dunk it. That’s how its done my friends I hope I didn’t bore you all to tears Last edited by Romey; 06-13-2008 at 12:16 AM. |
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| Senior Member | Romey: Sir; as usual; good clear information. Look at the ""Latin" machete; this one is made similar to the one I just bought. Up front thought: I haven't a clue about Machete's, qualities, design or squat ![]() I did think about ''higher dollar'' machete's; but BECAUSE I really don't know EXACTLY what I want. Said to self, buy a cheap one; work on it until I fix it close too, or throw it away. I'm going to do a little brush cleaning; not much, and a little limbing. Chain saw will do the ?bigger? Now re-visit the Latin. top one in the picture; I am going to ?cut? it back from about ?3" ? with the same approx contour. I too understand the dynamics of weight, mass, speed = power. My ''compromises'' are; I want shorter, better balance, and easier carrying unit. AND I don't have a clue? With your advice, and suggestions, Maybe Thanks
__________________ Craig By the standards of most |
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| | #7 | |
| Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: currently "Sunny West Africa"
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