Now that I've applied 4 coats of Tung Oil to my stock, I really dislike the hardened semi-gloss finish compared to the soft, flat factory finish from Springfield.
Questions:
Is there a reasonable way I can get the factory finish back or close to the factory finish? And if so, how?
What happens to stocks over time that are care for but not treated with Tung Oil or the like?
Chuckle, should have used a satin tung oil. Anyway, surprised the steel wool didn't do the trick of removing the gloss you don't like. By the way, I don't like a gloss like finish myself. Try using some 800 grit or higher wet/dry sandpaper. Put a coat of lemon oil or anything else similiar, Orange Pledge cleaner for example, on stock and then lightly work the sandpaper. I've done this a couple of times to stocks with a gloss finish that I brought home from gun shows. This technique worked pretty good in removing the gloss, leaving a nice really smooth satin finish. Of course, the finishes I was dealing with were not tung oil, but polyurethane type ones.
Now that you have used the tung oil, grain/wood has it in it and to use BLO would require you to sand stock again to remove the tung oil in wood for BLO to penetrate. Personally, I think a good tung oil is a superior protective finish than BLO. Guess you could always, use the steel wool again and then apply a satin finish of tung oil to obtain what you want.
Tung-oil-style finishes Tung oil finish refers to a wetted-wood look that a succession of penetrating tung oil applications gives. However, it is also a generic term and has been liberally borrowed by paint-and-varnish makers to describe the expected result of using their preparations, which may or may not actually contain any tung oil at all
Did you use pure tung oil? Pure tung oil should give you a matte finish. If you used a "tung oil FINISH" like Fromby's, it may have added varnishes or other products to give a shine to the finish.
You should be able to knock the shine off with 0000 steel wool.
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I prefer boiled linseed oil for my wood. It gives a very nice and ultra smooth finish when you are working the stock with fine steel wool, it waterproofs the stock, if you get a scratch just apply more boiled linseed oil to the scratch, and once a year you can easily apply another coat to keep the wood in great shape.
Boiled linseed oil. I just redid a Garand stock that had like 3 coats of polyurethane on it, put a few coats of BLO on the stock and now it looks great.
Quick question....Why don't we hear about anyone using teak oil? It is considered an oil that can be used for outside applications. Anybody with any experience?
Quick question....Why don't we hear about anyone using teak oil? It is considered an oil that can be used for outside applications. Anybody with any experience?
Teak oil was not used for any military furniture in this country AFAIK. The 03, Garand and early M14's used BLO, later M14's used tung oil.
You can use anything you want to finish your furniture but if you want the original look use the original finish oil.
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Married men live longer than single men do, but married men are a lot more willing to die.
Try two treatments of JASCO paint remover and warm soapy water then a rinse in clear water. Dry for 48 hours to remove all moisture a week would be better. The soak with turpintine and BLO 50/50 mix. The JACO should remove the toung oil sealer but it's a drastic move but you have sealed the wood with toung oil. Good luck but you might have done the pooch using TO. Shame that you got off on the wrong foot. I hope it works out for you.
Thanks, I'm taking it to a gunsmith with a good reputation for working on stocks. I'll have him remove the TO, stain and seal. I spent an hour talking with him and explaining the finish I'm looking for so it should come out right this time, let's hope.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MJ11
Try two treatments of JASCO paint remover and warm soapy water then a rinse in clear water. Dry for 48 hours to remove all moisture a week would be better. The soak with turpintine and BLO 50/50 mix. The JACO should remove the toung oil sealer but it's a drastic move but you have sealed the wood with toung oil. Good luck but you might have done the pooch using TO. Shame that you got off on the wrong foot. I hope it works out for you.
Try using permatex gasket remover, apply with cloth on wood area only. wipe off after 2-3 minutes, wash with sponge and soapy water, let dry, apply boiled linseed oil.
What happens to stocks over time that are cared for but not treated with Tung Oil or the like?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigfoot
Try using permatex gasket remover, apply with cloth on wood area only. wipe off after 2-3 minutes, wash with sponge and soapy water, let dry, apply boiled linseed oil.
I'm sure you will get it fixed to your liking. I had a #4 Enfield stock treated with TO and because it sealed the wood grain deeply it never would take a stain after sanding and wooling the TO finish and that is why I went with JASCO. By the time it was dry it soaked up the BLO/turpitine like a sponge and it was hard quick work to keep the wood wet for the treatment. I ended up with a soft rich natural color and but for a few small glossy spots that still would not absorb the 50/50 mix it is pleasing to look at.
This is a CMP stock.
Only thing used on it was BLO and Tung oil.
The last coat of Tung Oil was "Burnished" (rubbed hard in a circular motion with "0000" steel wool wetted with Tung Oil) As I finished "Burnishing" an area I quickly wiped off all excess Tung Oil & let it dry for several days.
Finish show in taken in natural sunlight.
Here is the finished project. It's a CMP Danish SA service grade with a barrel and throat that guage as new.
Last edited by obie1946; 09-06-2010 at 10:09 PM.
Reason: Added picture
