Op rod grinding?

Celcier · 10-17-2006, 02:08 AM

hey everyone,
I was wondering if someone could help me. My Garand is a "parts" gun in that nothing matches (doesn't bother me a bit, it still shoots!). It has a Nation Match Op rod on it. I took it shooting for the first time yesterday (just got it a week ago) and the bolt is not coming back all the way to strip the next round out of the clip. Now first off you might think it's the op rod spring or the gas piston, but it's not I assure you. they're in great condition. What the problem is, is that the op rod is grinding on the Rail on the reciever (I'm sorry I don't know the technical term). From closed postion, the rod pulls back fine for about the first 3inches, then RIGHT BEFORE IT HITS THE NOTCH TO TAKE THE OP ROD OFF it starts to create a HUGE amount of drag and you have to use almost 3x the force to pull it all the way back. My uncle owns a garand and we compared the two and he thought I should use a file to round the edges of the small piece that rides in the rail, I did this and it's still givin' me $H1T! Also, aside from the grinding, it also bumps up into that notch on the rail every time it reloads, all of this causes it to not blowback with enough force to come back far enough to strip the next round. Can you please maybe give me an idea of how to fix this (rather than buy a new Op Rod), because I can't shoot it the way it is, it's mashing the $H1T outta that notch on the rail of the reciever. thank you all TONS for your time and effort.

Chris · 10-17-2006, 05:51 AM

I wonder if the op rod is bent at all? or if that could even cause it. My friend had a national match op rod as well, and I remember something similar and it being because the op rod was bent in.

Hopefully one of the more expierenced garand guys can shed more light on it.

Gyrene · 10-17-2006, 01:09 PM

Celcier - An easy way to check to see if the op rod is the problem, is to try another op rod (one that is known to work on another M1 Garand). They are interchangeable, because that is what the parts were designed to do, interchange with no problems.

Celcier · 10-17-2006, 02:54 PM

yea, I thought about that. I'll have to get a hold of my uncle's op rod and see. But, in the event that it IS the op rod, is there a way to fix it without having to buy a new one?

Ben Hartley · 10-17-2006, 05:22 PM

Jim Swartz has a very good reputation for reasonable prices and speedy turn-around time for op rod repairs.

I've not had him do any op rod work for me, but I understand he's got all the requisite guages to ensure all the bends are in the right places. (I have purchased a timing guage from him, however, and what he sells matches what he adverises.)

You might give Jim a holler at:

JS Machine Tool
827 Elgin Circle
Pickerington OH 43147
814 834-4895

jswartz280@aol.com

HTH

Ben

Gyrene · 10-17-2006, 10:35 PM

Ben Hartley - The Armorers used to make the op rods work by setting a rounded chunk of maple in a vise and just whack them, on the piece of maple, until they appeared to be correct. Then reinstall it in the M1 Garand and see if it was correct. Many times I had to take a dozen or so M1 Garands to the range, because the Armorers were too busy. Seldom did they not work as advertised. They resorted to the Op Rod gages when the specific Op Rod was not easy to change the bends and angles, or when replacing the Op Rod Piston (because the piston was a bit fussy).

`

Felix's Tattoo · 10-19-2006, 09:28 AM

Go with what Ben says. I have had Jim straighten a bunch of op rods for me. Good turn around time and all. $15-25, depending on what needs to be done, and you're back in business.

Chris · 10-19-2006, 09:49 AM

getting the op rod fixed at $25 is what...1/4 of the cost of a new one!

Felix's Tattoo · 10-19-2006, 10:11 PM

Yeah, he is an honest man. I sent 3 or 4 of them in to him. One of them didn't need any work, and he charged nothing for checking it. What a great guy...
Yes, I believe new op rods to run about a hundred, if you can find one.

10-17-2006, 02:08 AM	#1
Celcier Registered User Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 2	Op rod grinding? hey everyone, I was wondering if someone could help me. My Garand is a "parts" gun in that nothing matches (doesn't bother me a bit, it still shoots!). It has a Nation Match Op rod on it. I took it shooting for the first time yesterday (just got it a week ago) and the bolt is not coming back all the way to strip the next round out of the clip. Now first off you might think it's the op rod spring or the gas piston, but it's not I assure you. they're in great condition. What the problem is, is that the op rod is grinding on the Rail on the reciever (I'm sorry I don't know the technical term). From closed postion, the rod pulls back fine for about the first 3inches, then RIGHT BEFORE IT HITS THE NOTCH TO TAKE THE OP ROD OFF it starts to create a HUGE amount of drag and you have to use almost 3x the force to pull it all the way back. My uncle owns a garand and we compared the two and he thought I should use a file to round the edges of the small piece that rides in the rail, I did this and it's still givin' me $H1T! Also, aside from the grinding, it also bumps up into that notch on the rail every time it reloads, all of this causes it to not blowback with enough force to come back far enough to strip the next round. Can you please maybe give me an idea of how to fix this (rather than buy a new Op Rod), because I can't shoot it the way it is, it's mashing the $H1T outta that notch on the rail of the reciever. thank you all TONS for your time and effort. Last edited by Celcier; 10-17-2006 at 02:13 AM.

10-17-2006, 05:51 AM	#2
Chris HMFIC Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: North Carolina Posts: 3,834,168 Images: 19 Blog Entries: 18	I wonder if the op rod is bent at all? or if that could even cause it. My friend had a national match op rod as well, and I remember something similar and it being because the op rod was bent in. Hopefully one of the more expierenced garand guys can shed more light on it. __________________ Rules \| Contributing Members No one has the right to deny my personal safety Please be descriptive in your thread titles!

10-17-2006, 02:54 PM	#4
Celcier Registered User Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 2	yea I thought of that.. yea, I thought about that. I'll have to get a hold of my uncle's op rod and see. But, in the event that it IS the op rod, is there a way to fix it without having to buy a new one?

10-17-2006, 05:22 PM	#5
Ben Hartley Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Jaffrey, New Hampshire Posts: 146	Operating Rod Repairs Jim Swartz has a very good reputation for reasonable prices and speedy turn-around time for op rod repairs. I've not had him do any op rod work for me, but I understand he's got all the requisite guages to ensure all the bends are in the right places. (I have purchased a timing guage from him, however, and what he sells matches what he adverises.) You might give Jim a holler at: JS Machine Tool 827 Elgin Circle Pickerington OH 43147 814 834-4895 jswartz280@aol.com HTH Ben Last edited by Ben Hartley; 10-19-2006 at 05:52 PM.

10-19-2006, 09:28 AM	#7
Felix's Tattoo Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: North Prairie Posts: 17	Op rod correcting Go with what Ben says. I have had Jim straighten a bunch of op rods for me. Good turn around time and all. $15-25, depending on what needs to be done, and you're back in business. __________________ jim

10-17-2006, 01:09 PM	#3
Gyrene Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: CA Posts: 886	Celcier - An easy way to check to see if the op rod is the problem, is to try another op rod (one that is known to work on another M1 Garand). They are interchangeable, because that is what the parts were designed to do, interchange with no problems.

10-17-2006, 10:35 PM	#6
Gyrene Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: CA Posts: 886	Ben Hartley - The Armorers used to make the op rods work by setting a rounded chunk of maple in a vise and just whack them, on the piece of maple, until they appeared to be correct. Then reinstall it in the M1 Garand and see if it was correct. Many times I had to take a dozen or so M1 Garands to the range, because the Armorers were too busy. Seldom did they not work as advertised. They resorted to the Op Rod gages when the specific Op Rod was not easy to change the bends and angles, or when replacing the Op Rod Piston (because the piston was a bit fussy). `

10-19-2006, 09:49 AM	#8
Chris HMFIC Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: North Carolina Posts: 3,834,168 Images: 19 Blog Entries: 18	getting the op rod fixed at $25 is what...1/4 of the cost of a new one! __________________ Rules \| Contributing Members No one has the right to deny my personal safety Please be descriptive in your thread titles!

10-19-2006, 10:11 PM	#9
Felix's Tattoo Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: North Prairie Posts: 17	OP rods Yeah, he is an honest man. I sent 3 or 4 of them in to him. One of them didn't need any work, and he charged nothing for checking it. What a great guy... Yes, I believe new op rods to run about a hundred, if you can find one. __________________ jim