The last step

ruger22com · 03-22-2007, 07:14 PM

O.K....I have sanded, and applied a sweet clear custom varnish sealer..dried then resanded around 3 times. the last coat of varnish mix has been sitting 2 days and is still a little tacky ...but the stock (a new walnut replacement) now looks freaking amazing.
You can still feel a slight gritty feel to the surface if you run your hand over it...and I was wondering....if I let it dry for another week (as the varnish instructions suggest) to get good and hard, is this something a fine steel wool will fix....and will the steel wool also keep it as shiny and beautiful as it is now, or will it dull the finish.

God knows I am new to stock refinishing, and I don't want to screw up 2 weeks work.

any other final polishing tips?

DANA · 03-22-2007, 08:35 PM

You could sand with a brown paper bag. It sands without dulling the finish. Also try it on a small part of the stock to see if it works for you.

DANA

lefty o · 03-22-2007, 08:49 PM

i personally do not use varnish on gunstocks, but steel wool will undoubtedly dull the finish. if you've put on a fairly heavy top coat, after it dries you may try attacking it with a very fine automotive polishing compound.

Orlando · 03-23-2007, 01:30 PM

Can't help you. I really don't care for a varnished stock on a Garand or any other USGI Mil Surplus. I use BLO

Stock Doc · 03-23-2007, 04:02 PM

To heavy is a no no as it will harden outside and then try to dry inside. Sometimes staying tacky. I have cut them with mineral spirits or turpentine and 0000 steel wool lightly and wipe it off. Feel for tackiness and repeat once more lightly. Wipe it off and let dry two days. Check it again. The raised grain may be from wipe down. If you didn't wipe it down correctly the wood in grains swells also Alcohol wipe down will raise the grain. I use Acetone.
The next thing is 600 grit wet sand paper. You can take water or mineral spirits or turpentine to lightly wet sand the stock. Then put another light coat of finish on. I learned to use a small piece of clothe to wipe harder finishes like you used on because it can evenly spread it compared to a brush. You can work it on thinner also. But make sure you have on powder free gloves while soaking with these finishes. Also do not leave the rags laying around incase there able to spontaneously combust. Hope this helps. Rick B

WyrTwister · 03-24-2007, 11:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Orlando

Can't help you. I really don't care for a varnished stock on a Garand or any other USGI Mil Surplus. I use BLO

Me too , thinned with turpentine . If you wish it a little shinner , add some bee's wax .

Wyr
God bless

Stock Doc · 03-24-2007, 11:58 AM

I am not a big fan of those types of finishes on collectable rifles either but at the same time I am highly against Bee's Wax as you are stuck with it after you use it. Also I have yet to see a shiny Bees wax finish. It holds a dull flat look that will leach out when on the range and in the sun. I don't even want to mention how many Bees Wax messes I have had to try and help people with. I once tried to remove that finish to get one fixed and will never do that again.
It is ok for some applications I guess but remember it seals the wood on the outside. It only reaches so far into the wood and that is it. If the wood holds water and can not breath it may crack during its time when under different temperatures. In a museum it is fine. Rick B

Orlando · 03-24-2007, 02:32 PM

How are others using Bees wax finish? I use 1/3 bees wax melted down 1/3 turpetine 1/3 BLO I put one caot of BLO on the stock let it dry then handrub in the mixture with very thin coats buffing off with a lint free towel in between coats. I give it as many caots as it seems necasary. Iv'e never had any problems with it. It really makes the wood grain stand out and does offer more protection than just BLO or tung oil alone. I wonder if the problems others had with it is because they put it on to thick? Just my observation

Stock Doc · 03-24-2007, 04:20 PM

The thing I cant figure out is how wax can mix with oil???? It is like oil and water and the wax will set in and push the oil out. All you are honestly doing is thinning out the wax until it dries as much as it can. Even from folks who like it say it leaches out on hot days. If wax and oil or turp would blend then honey would blend in the bees wax in the honey combs wouldn't it?

I also like how folks use 50/50 turp and oil. There is a point where the Turp is used to thin the oil so it sinks in deep then the Turp dries. Once you build up coats the turp becomes unnecessary but folks still dilute it 50/50 which is not needed and causes you to have to oil allot more than needed wasting materials all along.

I guess my exposure to so many stocks, types of finishes and actual trials I have a strong opinion on something's but I also hate to see problems later on for folks. Rick B

WyrTwister · 03-25-2007, 09:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stock Doc

The thing I cant figure out is how wax can mix with oil???? It is like oil and water and the wax will set in and push the oil out. All you are honestly doing is thinning out the wax until it dries as much as it can. Even from folks who like it say it leaches out on hot days. If wax and oil or turp would blend then honey would blend in the bees wax in the honey combs wouldn't it?
I also like how folks use 50/50 turp and oil. There is a point where the Turp is used to thin the oil so it sinks in deep then the Turp dries. Once you build up coats the turp becomes unnecessary but folks still dilute it 50/50 which is not needed and causes you to have to oil allot more than needed wasting materials all along.
I guess my exposure to so many stocks, types of finishes and actual trials I have a strong opinion on something's but I also hate to see problems later on for folks. Rick B

I have not used the bees's wax ( I do not want a shinny finish on my Garands ) , I just said I have read about it . And seen nice picrures of stocks finished that way ( for what photos may or may not be worth ) .

I use BLO and turp . This is a thinner mixture than pure BLO . The applications " dry " quicker , you also have to use more applications . I am OK with that .

On a " modern " rifle , I use poly-urithane (sp) .

Wyr
God bless

Dale · 03-25-2007, 10:12 AM

I also like BLO cut with mineral spirits of turpentine.

If I want a harder "varnish like" finish I will use a 50/50 mixture of BLO and Tung Oil.

I put the latter on my dad's Remington 721 .270 and OMG!!!! does it look nice now!

I did, however, put a few coats of mixed BLO on first to put oil back into the wood.

Oxford · 03-25-2007, 10:32 AM

The last step for me when refinishing the gunstock would be rubbing 4-0 steel wool over wooden stock which was heavily covered with furniture paste wax to make it smooth as a baby's butt.

Orlando · 03-25-2007, 11:27 AM

Bees wax does notmake a shiney finish. It gives a military finish look

Stock Doc · 03-25-2007, 11:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dale

I also like BLO cut with mineral spirits of turpentine.
If I want a harder "varnish like" finish I will use a 50/50 mixture of BLO and Tung Oil.
I put the latter on my dad's Remington 721 .270 and OMG!!!! does it look nice now!
I did, however, put a few coats of mixed BLO on first to put oil back into the wood.

Dale,
the BLO/TURP should go on first as it thins the oil to sink it deeper in the wood. This is why I made the statement about why I dont understand folks cutting it from beginning to end 50/50. It is like washing your car 50 times to get it clean in one sitting. It is useless. Once the oil starts building up in the wood { at about the 3rd coat } it is a waste to keep cutting it 50/50 and should be dropped to around 70 BLO 30 Turp or less. If you cut it 50/50 the complete time you may as well be trying to get water to stick to glass. The turp is also used for clean up which proves what I am trying to say. Just trying to help. Rick B

M1D-Garand · 03-25-2007, 01:19 PM

I just put the layers of BLO on the stock without using Turp.
It just worked fine for me (but did put 7 layers on the stock!)

Rob

WyrTwister · 03-25-2007, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by M1D-Garand

I just put the layers of BLO on the stock without using Turp.
It just worked fine for me (but did put 7 layers on the stock!)
Rob

You never complete a BLO stock finish . You can always apply another coat . And over time , it will need more .

On the " up side " , on a new stock , you can go shoot it after the first application , w/o messing it up . If you are impatient .

And the first application of BLO & turp " drys " / soaks up rapidly . :-)

God bless
Wyr .

03-22-2007, 07:14 PM	#1
ruger22com Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Mobile Alabama Posts: 723	The last step O.K....I have sanded, and applied a sweet clear custom varnish sealer..dried then resanded around 3 times. the last coat of varnish mix has been sitting 2 days and is still a little tacky ...but the stock (a new walnut replacement) now looks freaking amazing. You can still feel a slight gritty feel to the surface if you run your hand over it...and I was wondering....if I let it dry for another week (as the varnish instructions suggest) to get good and hard, is this something a fine steel wool will fix....and will the steel wool also keep it as shiny and beautiful as it is now, or will it dull the finish. God knows I am new to stock refinishing, and I don't want to screw up 2 weeks work. any other final polishing tips? __________________ www.CheapGunParts.com http://ruger22.com/art/banners/tiny.gif Home of the "YELLOW JACKET" Bolt Buffer and Takedown Bolts! Free Shipping & Lifetime Warranty!

03-23-2007, 04:02 PM	#5
Stock Doc Moderator Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: North Middle Ohio I see water Posts: 838	To heavy is a no no as it will harden outside and then try to dry inside. Sometimes staying tacky. I have cut them with mineral spirits or turpentine and 0000 steel wool lightly and wipe it off. Feel for tackiness and repeat once more lightly. Wipe it off and let dry two days. Check it again. The raised grain may be from wipe down. If you didn't wipe it down correctly the wood in grains swells also Alcohol wipe down will raise the grain. I use Acetone. The next thing is 600 grit wet sand paper. You can take water or mineral spirits or turpentine to lightly wet sand the stock. Then put another light coat of finish on. I learned to use a small piece of clothe to wipe harder finishes like you used on because it can evenly spread it compared to a brush. You can work it on thinner also. But make sure you have on powder free gloves while soaking with these finishes. Also do not leave the rags laying around incase there able to spontaneously combust. Hope this helps. Rick B __________________ If I cant fix it,, It must REALLY be broken!

03-24-2007, 11:58 AM	#7
Stock Doc Moderator Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: North Middle Ohio I see water Posts: 838	I am not a big fan of those types of finishes on collectable rifles either but at the same time I am highly against Bee's Wax as you are stuck with it after you use it. Also I have yet to see a shiny Bees wax finish. It holds a dull flat look that will leach out when on the range and in the sun. I don't even want to mention how many Bees Wax messes I have had to try and help people with. I once tried to remove that finish to get one fixed and will never do that again. It is ok for some applications I guess but remember it seals the wood on the outside. It only reaches so far into the wood and that is it. If the wood holds water and can not breath it may crack during its time when under different temperatures. In a museum it is fine. Rick B __________________ If I cant fix it,, It must REALLY be broken!

03-24-2007, 04:20 PM	#9
Stock Doc Moderator Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: North Middle Ohio I see water Posts: 838	The thing I cant figure out is how wax can mix with oil???? It is like oil and water and the wax will set in and push the oil out. All you are honestly doing is thinning out the wax until it dries as much as it can. Even from folks who like it say it leaches out on hot days. If wax and oil or turp would blend then honey would blend in the bees wax in the honey combs wouldn't it? I also like how folks use 50/50 turp and oil. There is a point where the Turp is used to thin the oil so it sinks in deep then the Turp dries. Once you build up coats the turp becomes unnecessary but folks still dilute it 50/50 which is not needed and causes you to have to oil allot more than needed wasting materials all along. I guess my exposure to so many stocks, types of finishes and actual trials I have a strong opinion on something's but I also hate to see problems later on for folks. Rick B __________________ If I cant fix it,, It must REALLY be broken!

03-25-2007, 10:12 AM	#11
Dale Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Too Dang Hot, Arizona Posts: 4,284	I also like BLO cut with mineral spirits of turpentine. If I want a harder "varnish like" finish I will use a 50/50 mixture of BLO and Tung Oil. I put the latter on my dad's Remington 721 .270 and OMG!!!! does it look nice now! I did, however, put a few coats of mixed BLO on first to put oil back into the wood. __________________ "It confuses me how some people can vigorously go against the 2nd. Amendment and still call themselves patriotic"-me

03-22-2007, 08:35 PM	#2
DANA Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: WAITSFIELD VERMONT Posts: 1,595	You could sand with a brown paper bag. It sands without dulling the finish. Also try it on a small part of the stock to see if it works for you. DANA

03-22-2007, 08:49 PM	#3
lefty o Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: mn Posts: 4,807	i personally do not use varnish on gunstocks, but steel wool will undoubtedly dull the finish. if you've put on a fairly heavy top coat, after it dries you may try attacking it with a very fine automotive polishing compound.

03-23-2007, 01:30 PM	#4
Orlando Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Ohio Posts: 545	Can't help you. I really don't care for a varnished stock on a Garand or any other USGI Mil Surplus. I use BLO

03-24-2007, 02:32 PM	#8
Orlando Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Ohio Posts: 545	How are others using Bees wax finish? I use 1/3 bees wax melted down 1/3 turpetine 1/3 BLO I put one caot of BLO on the stock let it dry then handrub in the mixture with very thin coats buffing off with a lint free towel in between coats. I give it as many caots as it seems necasary. Iv'e never had any problems with it. It really makes the wood grain stand out and does offer more protection than just BLO or tung oil alone. I wonder if the problems others had with it is because they put it on to thick? Just my observation

03-25-2007, 10:32 AM	#12
Oxford Super Moderator Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Gladstone, Missouri Posts: 13,023 Blog Entries: 4	The last step for me when refinishing the gunstock would be rubbing 4-0 steel wool over wooden stock which was heavily covered with furniture paste wax to make it smooth as a baby's butt. __________________ "If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right".

03-25-2007, 11:27 AM	#13
Orlando Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Ohio Posts: 545	Bees wax does notmake a shiney finish. It gives a military finish look

03-25-2007, 01:19 PM	#15
M1D-Garand Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Europe Posts: 369	I just put the layers of BLO on the stock without using Turp. It just worked fine for me (but did put 7 layers on the stock!) Rob __________________ 8 Bangs and a Pling