Problem w/ my new M-1

[JimBob]

I would add if you go with the 1/4 in.buy a decent one,Craftsman,S&K,or other good brand not some cheap chinese POS that will round off the corners.

[Archetype_wyo]

Originally Posted by fishlore

I finally got to the range and fired my new M1 for the first time. I absolutely loved it and got a few nice groups. I did run into a problem however. The rifle wouldn't eject the used casing and cycle the next round so I was stuck manually pulling the operating rod back every time.

I was using Remington 30/06 Springfield 150 grain rounds. I was using a McCann adjustable gas screw. I started with the biggest and worked my way through to the smallest screw and none of them worked. I even swapped out the adjustable screw for the normal one that came with the rifle and that didn't work either.

This week I'm going to disassemble the rifle and scrutinize the gas chamber. I'm hoping that there is some sort of residue or something in there since that sounds like the easiest fix I could hope for.

My question is, what else could a relative newbie look for in order to fix this problem? Is it possible there isn't enough energy in a 150 grain round to cycle the action (I highly doubt this)? If all else fails does anyone know of any M1 gunsmiths in the Northeast Ohio area and what would one expect to spend for this service?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time.

Didn't alot of the guys have problems with this durin WWII?? The case expanded too much and then didn't extract?

[Orlando]

Originally Posted by Archetype_wyo

Didn't alot of the guys have problems with this durin WWII?? The case expanded too much and then didn't extract?

????? Not that I ever heard of


If you dont have a 1/4 inch drive rtachet/extension already I would go ahead and buy the proper wrench. The 1/4 ratchet is just a substitution if you already have one on hand. Just my opinion

[JimBob]

My opinion too,if you need to buy,buy the right tool for the job.LOL Sometimes I forget not everyone is a tool junkie with years of accumulation.

[Full MeTal Jack]

Well here is the holder. Can't find the 4 point wrench.

ARMORY M1 GARAND GAS CYLINDER WRENCH at Brownells

[gunnerdave]

Here's a link for the gas plug wrench:

Civilian Marksmanship Program eStore

The wrench is item #824. Might take 3 months to get it with the big panic buy in progress.

HTH

Dave

[JimBob]

LOL If all else fails you can always use the GI issue M3,M3A1,or M10 combination tool issued with them. They are readily available several places just don't buy the repro junk

[Orlando]

May as well use a screwdriver as the combo tool. I never could get one tight enough that way to satisfy me

[fishlore]

You guys will probably laugh at me, but this is what I've been using.
Stanley at Lowe's: 1/2" Beveled Chisel
A beveled chisel since that's the only thing I could find wide enough from the hardware store to use on the McCaan screw that I'm using now. The gas scew that came with my rifle had a slotted head (|) so I'm not sure that the drive socket extension or item 824 from the CMP will work with either screws. The chisel works but it does chew up the screw a little bit so a more permanent solution would be nice. I have the M3A1 combo tool but that didn't work either.
Thanks again everyone, Saturday can't get here fast enough. I got my rifle reassembled and ready to see if my cleaning, etc. was enough to fix my issue. I'll report back then and hopefully have a few pictures of her.
Thanks.

[cremley]

So did you ever get it working?

I have the same problem. Except my rifle is extremely clean. There is not a single scratch on the metal and there isn't any grease on anything. I lightly oiled all of the metal parts and cleaned the gun after my first session at the range. I had my brother take it to the range yesterday and he was having the same problem. I will try to do the tilt test to see if anything is hanging. I think I have original M2 Ball ammo but I am not sure. Is there a possibility that the spring is too strong and the action just needs to be worked repeatedly? The action would sometimes not cycle and sometimes cycle 7/8 of the way but would not allow the spent casing to eject. The bolt would close before fully ejecting and hold the spent casing against the outside "throat" wall of the barrel. 16 shots, not one fully ejected.

[Orlando]

Originally Posted by cremley

So did you ever get it working?

I have the same problem. Except my rifle is extremely clean. There is not a single scratch on the metal and there isn't any grease on anything. I lightly oiled all of the metal parts and cleaned the gun after my first session at the range. I had my brother take it to the range yesterday and he was having the same problem. I will try to do the tilt test to see if anything is hanging. I think I have original M2 Ball ammo but I am not sure. Is there a possibility that the spring is too strong and the action just needs to be worked repeatedly? The action would sometimes not cycle and sometimes cycle 7/8 of the way but would not allow the spent casing to eject. The bolt would close before fully ejecting and hold the spent casing against the outside "throat" wall of the barrel. 16 shots, not one fully ejected.

That may be your problem The Garand runs on grease not oil. Dirty or improperly lubricated is usually half the function problems of a Garand
http://www.nicolausassociates.com/PD...easePoints.pdf

What ammo are you using?
Make sure gas is tight
Buy new Op Rod spring from Orion 7
First thing I do before ever shooting a Garand when I purchase one is COMPLETELY strip , clean, grease and replace the Op Rod spring
I have only had one Garand that needed and other parts replaced to function properly

[JimBob]

Orlando is right,go to your local Wal-mart or auto parts store and get some HD wheelbearing grease,I like the pink stuff,and grease where the chart illustrates."I think I have M2 Ball"don't get it.Make sure of what you are using.

[cremley]

How can I check to see what ammo I have?
I was able to remove the gas cylinder by hand very easily. I can slide it on and off of the barrel freely. Is this a bad thing?
I will use the grease idea.

[Orlando]

What is the headstamp of the ammo
A loose gas cylinder can affect accuracy but wont affect function( we can deal with this later)
You need to see if the gas port is being partially covered, which can also cause short stroking
Install the gas lock but not the screw, pull the gas cylinder forward against the lock, pull the op rod back and lock into place
Look inside to see if the gas port is lined up with the hole in the barrel.
Close the Op Rod and see if it is just behind the gas port hole
Report back

[cremley]

Originally Posted by Orlando

What is the headstamp of the ammo
A loose gas cylinder can affect accuracy but wont affect function( we can deal with this later)
You need to see if the gas port is being partially covered, which can also cause short stroking
Install the gas lock but not the screw, pull the gas cylinder forward against the lock, pull the op rod back and lock into place
Look inside to see if the gas port is lined up with the hole in the barrel.
Close the Op Rod and see if it is just behind the gas port hole
Report back

All of that checked out. The hole was in the right spot and was not plugged. The op rod was in the right place just behind the hole. I put a special gun grease on all the parts that are on the list.

The headstamp of the ammo is a "T" at 12:00 "W" at 3:00 "4" at 6:00 and "5" at 9:00. It is brass cased and boxer primed with a green color to the primer. some of them had red primers. Either color didn't eject.

[rl69]

twin city ball ammo 1945

USGI non-corrosive primer headstamp dates - US Military Rifles - General Gun Collecting - ParallaxBill's Curio & Relic and Military Surplus Firearms Forums - Message Board - Yuku

[cremley]

Wow, 1945 stuff! should I be shooting it? I guess it would be considered M2 ball then?

[JimBob]

You are using corrosive primed ammo.Different cleaning procedures are required or you will end up with a severely rusted rifle and ruined bore.Usuall procedure is hot soapy water through he bore and gas cylinder and scrubbing the piston end of the op-rod followed by drying the bore and a repeat cleaning and oiling afterwards with your normal cleaner and oil then checking for any sign of rust for 3 days.I would not be using that ammo in my rifle.

[gunnerdave]

Yes, it's M2 Ball, and it's corrosively primed. Be sure & clean the bore, chamber, gas system/op rod/bolt face thoroughly to avoid corrosion. Some guys spray Windex or flush with hot water to get rid of the potassium chloride residue while still at the range. The original smelly WWII bore cleaner or Sweet's 7.62 solvent will also do the job. See the attached chart for changeover dates to non-corrosive priming. Nothing wrong with the old stuff, as long as you clean well after shooting.

I don't want to use it in my M1's though. I don't like to detail strip that often. Gas cylinder gets loose.

HTH

Dave

[Mooseman684]

Originally Posted by cremley

All of that checked out. The hole was in the right spot and was not plugged. The op rod was in the right place just behind the hole. I put a special gun grease on all the parts that are on the list.

The headstamp of the ammo is a "T" at 12:00 "W" at 3:00 "4" at 6:00 and "5" at 9:00. It is brass cased and boxer primed with a green color to the primer. some of them had red primers. Either color didn't eject.

I believe that is 1954 ammo....Not 1945...And TW54 is Not Corrosive.

Rich