| | #41 |
| Young Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Southern New Mexico
Posts: 2,655
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It didn't smell like corrosive ammo to me. How can you tell that it is 54 and not 45? Are all head stamps like that?
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| | #42 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Colorado
Posts: 653
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Sounds like it's '54 & non-corrosive. I misread your post. Sorry. Hope you still find the chart useful. Dave
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| | #43 |
| Super Moderator ![]() |
It reads Left to right over the top and left to right on the Bottom TW 54 If it were 1945 the 4 would be at 9:00 and 5 would be at 6:00 Then it would read . TW 45 Rich
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| | #44 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,176
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Then clean that rifle, use grease on the points shown, replace Op Rod spring with one from Orion 7, shoot rifle and report back
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| | #46 |
| Young Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Southern New Mexico
Posts: 2,655
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Ok, Now I know how to read headstamps!! It is 1954 non-corrosive then. I am going to shoot it now after I greased it all up. The rifle was put together by a gunsmith about 9 years ago with a new op rod spring and some other components and hasn't been fired since then. Do I really need a new spring? I also took the gas screw out and cocked the bolt all the way back. I noticed that when the bolt was all the way back, I could see a little bit of light between the piston and the gas tube. Is this normal? Is this to release excess gas?
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| | #47 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,176
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If it was completly tight it wouldnt function. Only way to tell if it is is spec is to measure the piston and the gas cylinder Grease it properly and fire it and see how it does. A spring is cheap , I would replace it with a Orion 7 spring Reason being some people use Wolf Op Rod springs and some seem to have function problems with them. Who knows what spring was used, could still be the original |
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| | #48 |
| Young Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Southern New Mexico
Posts: 2,655
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well the Orion spring looks like a good deal but my order has to total no less than $20 before shipping charges. I could look at extra parts. What else could go bad on this thing?
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| | #49 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,176
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How about a complete spring kit? Not sure how much they are
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| | #50 |
| Young Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Southern New Mexico
Posts: 2,655
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Ok, well I took it to the range after I greased it and cleaned it all up. I was using the same ammo. It wouldn't even extract this time. Something tells me this is more than a spring. I may have to get the spring kit but There is a local gunsmith that I can take it to with no charge to me. I will probably get it checked out by him before I spend more money on it. Either way, it is still a blast to shoot!
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| | #51 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,176
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"If " the chamber is spotless and the rd isnt getting stuck in it there are a few things it could be. You need to do the tilt test. Op rod may be bent out of spec from someone firing commercial ammo. Or the gas piston or gas cylinder is out of spec allowing to much gas to blow by keeping the Op Rod from properly cycling |
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| | #52 |
| Young Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Southern New Mexico
Posts: 2,655
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I did the complete tilt test and it all worked fine. I need to get the dimensions so I can measure the piston and the gas cylinder to see if they are in spec. I don't think anything is bent. It was handpicked and assembled by a gunsmith 9 years ago and I have been the first to shoot it since.
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| | #53 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,176
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If it was assembled by a competant gunsmith the piston and cylinder should be inspec. You can measure the piston but will need a special gauge tomeasure the cylinder and they are pricey Are the rds getting stuck in the chamber? |
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| | #54 |
| Young Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Southern New Mexico
Posts: 2,655
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I havn't had any problems with the fired rounds sticking in the chamber. after I shoot them, I just pull back on the bolt and they all eject.
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| | #55 | |
| Member Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 20
| Wont cycle. Quote:
Based on your posts above your losing gas pressure. There is only a few things it can be: 1. Your Gas Cylinder is out of spec and the gas is blowing by the op-rod piston. (Hard to measure without the tool) 2. Your op-rod piston is out of spec and the gas is blowing by. It should be no smaller then .525" in diameter (Make sure its not out of round) 3. The port on the barrel is blocked (I think you said you checked this.) A 0.0805 inch drill bit should pass through the hole. 4. The Gas plug is leaking past the poppet. 5. The Gas Cylinder isn't seated correctly and is blocking the barrel port. (You can verify this by visual inspection with the gas plug off.) 6. Op-rod Binding: You said it passes the tilt test so Op-rod binding isn't it. 7. Heavy carbon build up in the gas cylinder. 8. Weak or broken Op-Rod Spring. (If you haven't ever replaced this do so. A fresh Op-Rod spring solves many problems.) 9. Lack of lubrication. Good luck. Eric | |
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| | #56 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Colorado
Posts: 653
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Welcome to the forum Eric. I'd bet readers here would like to see your gas cylider pressure data. Dave
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| | #57 | |
| Young Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Southern New Mexico
Posts: 2,655
| Quote:
#1,2, and 8 are the only ones that it could be thus far. I guess I will have to check #2, replace the spring, and hope to god it is not #1!
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| | #58 |
| Member Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 20
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| | #59 |
| Young Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Southern New Mexico
Posts: 2,655
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Well I dropped it off with a gunsmith this weekend so I am waiting on what he has to say. Thanks for all the help so far, I am sure I will have more questions for you guys in the future! I will have to post pics after I get it back.
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