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Old 06-02-2007, 09:14 PM   #21
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sorry, good gunsmiths dont do that. there are alot of hack professional smiths out there.i do alot of trigger work, and melting springs is not how to go about it.
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Old 06-02-2007, 09:35 PM   #22
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Sorry no hard feelings lefty o,but for my sanity I'm forced to put you on my ignore list.
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Old 06-02-2007, 10:05 PM   #23
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Quote:       Originally Posted by lefty o View Post
sorry, good gunsmiths dont do that. there are alot of hack professional smiths out there.i do alot of trigger work, and melting springs is not how to go about it.
As a Gunsmith, I agree with Lefty 100%. I either install a lighter spring or Cut a coil off and test it...Never get a spring near a heat source or it will FAIL...period.
Rich
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Old 06-02-2007, 11:24 PM   #24
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thats fine joelee. in the short time you've been here you show a lack of knowledge about guns, which in itself is fine. right up to the point where you start giving bad advice on the modification of a gun that can render it unsafe or inoperable! ignore me all you want, but if you give eroneous, or dangerous advice, i will call you on it!
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Old 06-03-2007, 09:27 AM   #25
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Quote:       Originally Posted by Mooseman684 View Post
As a Gunsmith, I agree with Lefty 100%. I either install a lighter spring or Cut a coil off and test it...Never get a spring near a heat source or it will FAIL...period.
Rich
Ain't no way I can argue with a Jack Of All Trades.Do you do pluming and shoe horses also?
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Old 06-03-2007, 10:30 AM   #26
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there you go, your told your wrong by a professional gunsmith and your a smartmouth about it!

for those that dont understand this, i will explain why you do not put heat to springs. take your little trigger spring, now heat it cherry red( there is no way to only heat 1 or 2 coils of a part this small, and is bad to do anyways as you will see). now let the spring air cool. this is called annealing (removing the temper from a steel part). now that your spring is annealed, it is nothing more than a coiled piece of wire, very much like a paper clip. now if your still in doubt as to why this is bad, go get yourself a paper clip. take your paper clip and start bending it back and forth. how long does it take for you to break the paper clip? not long i'll bet. it really doesnt matter how big the spring is either, if you anneal it at any point, thats where it will fail. remember the knuckleheads that torched the front springs in their cars to lower them, didnt take long for the springs to break did it. on the other hand a factory coil spring lasts for 50+ years easily- wonder why!

Last edited by lefty o; 06-03-2007 at 03:44 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 06-16-2007, 08:16 PM   #27
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As was mentioned before Numrich has quite a few parts for the 25M. I just ordered a camo stock for mine. Maybe a couple of 7 round mags next week.

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Old 06-16-2007, 10:26 PM   #28
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LeftyO...You sure got it Right !...Also,If you heat a few coils, the heat will transfer farther down the spring and render it useless and weak down 5 or 6 coils...Cherry red is over 1500 degrees, but a spring will anneal at 300 degrees. How do I know ? I ruined a small Spring in My oven while baking a finish on a gun at 300 degrees on the Magazine release that was riveted so I couldn't remove it...You live and learn !
Rich
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Old 06-17-2007, 06:12 AM   #29
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Doc, Walmart has the magazines for the later Model 25 - and probably cheaper than Numrich. Also, the early and later magazines are available from Marlin's store - just google up Marlin Firearms, and you'll find their home page.
This way you'll get new parts, rather than questionable used parts.
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Old 06-20-2007, 10:17 AM   #30
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Big Dog,
Thanks for the information, you were right. I ordered two mags from Marlin and the were about $11.70 each. I think Numrich wanted $16.95 each for their used mags. Thanks again.

Doc
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Old 07-06-2007, 07:52 PM   #31
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KUDOS to Marlin. I did order two magazines from Marlin and they were promptly sent out..however they were the wrong mags. I posted an email to that effect to Marlin.

Today I received two new Marlin M25 mags in the mail. Marlin has really impressed me with their customer service. As a direct result of MArlin's superior service I have made up my mind that Marlin will be my next long gun.

I wish all vendors would adopt the mindset displayed by Marlin.

Thanks again Marlin !!!!!
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Old 07-07-2007, 05:38 AM   #32
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Glad to hear it, Doc! Numrich can be a good source for parts, but often they just AREN'T the cheapest!
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Old 07-24-2007, 08:50 AM   #33
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Marlin Model 25 Stocks

Hello everyone, I own a Model 25 (.22cal rimfire) made in 1984.
I use it often (Smallbore Silhouette) and so far I have had good results.
Mine has a screw with a long pin end holding the sear and safety. The trigger is held in with a pin. The sear was riding against the receiver slot. I smoothed it out and it is around 3 lbs now, using the stock springs.
My stock is the dark brown they used then, and someone said it it Birch.
I see no wood character and it looks like some sort of MDF board to me.
I saw another earlier stock that looked like some other type of wood, does anyone know anything about the stocks.
I am thinking about bedding the action in and was wondering if anyone has done this with one of the Model 25's or the Glenfield model 20.
Thanks
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Old 07-24-2007, 05:36 PM   #34
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Howdy, Gordon! Yep, those cheap Birch stocks often have no visible grain or character after the horrid finish they use. I stripped and refinished a couple Marlins (Models 25MN and 17V), and used a light "honey maple" oil stain. With handrubbed Formby's Tung Oil Finish over them, they look far better now! My "Blonde Marlins", hehehe. I did my Ruger 10-22 that same way.
I did my Marlin and Ruger triggers too - just smoothed them with ultra-fine emory and burnishing paper (used in scale modeling). Replaced the trigger springs with pen springs - the old "Pentel Spring Trick". Not a target trigger, but far better than original.
For bedding, I have sanded out the barrel channels and used a thin adhesive-backed cork sheeting at the extreme front end of the channel - seems to work well.
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Old 07-24-2007, 07:00 PM   #35
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Lil Marlins and Glenfields were amazingly rugged and accurate lil rifles for the pittance (as compared to others) they asked for them...
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Old 07-24-2007, 10:02 PM   #36
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Thanks guys, I saw where the finish is starting to come off in a couple of places and I think I will strip it and do like Big Dog. I have got a couple of questions at matches, and I always tell them it is my "pawn shop Marlin".
Shoots better than I do.
I thought about the "spring thing" but because I have had my trigger weight measured at matches. It must be at least 2 lbs and mine is smooth enough to work well now. FWIW the last match had 3 Anschutz, 1 Win Hi Wall, 5 CZ 452s, 1 Cooper, 1 Savage, 1 Rem 513, 1 Rem 541, Assortment of Rug 10/22's, and 1 Marlin 25 (mine).
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Old 07-25-2007, 01:04 AM   #37
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Just thought I'd post a pic of the one I got a couple weeks ago. Must be from the sixties 'cause I can't find a serial number anywhere on it. I put about 400 solid 40gr american eagles through it with no issues.

Just got a decent scope on it, but haven't had a chance to see how it can shoot without my poor eyesight holding it back.
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Old 07-25-2007, 04:34 AM   #38
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Welcome aboard, Sparkytfl!
Looks kinda like my old Marlin 80DL, only without the peepsight. If it doesn't have scope mounting grooves, it's pre-55 or so - that's when they starting grooving them.

I used to have a range buddy who competed with his Marlin 60 semi - he was in a beginner class with a guy shooting a Kimber! He usually beat that Kimber too - it's often the shooter's skill that really makes the difference, not just fancy hardware.
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Old 07-26-2007, 03:56 PM   #39
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Mine's dovetailed for a scope. I didn't realise they made these in the fifties. Most of the info I've found had people early sixties to eighties. Anybody know the correct date range?

There's a glenfield 60 at gander mountain for a hundred. I've been thinking of getting. It's from 76 and has kinda ugly pale wood and weird checking on the foregrip. Of course I need a big scoped "sniper" rifle, combat/survival rifle, pump shotgun, etc and a safe before I need another 22.
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Old 07-26-2007, 05:18 PM   #40
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Quote:       Originally Posted by bentbarrel View Post
i forgot to show the present groups with the model 25, and so far i think this lil rifle is a keeper
way to go!
not bad at all for the previus condition,may i suggest that fill the barrel with atf oil for a good couple of hr's and clean througly. let me know later

Quote:       Originally Posted by Sparkytfl View Post
Mine's dovetailed for a scope. I didn't realise they made these in the fifties. Most of the info I've found had people early sixties to eighties. Anybody know the correct date range?

There's a glenfield 60 at gander mountain for a hundred. I've been thinking of getting. It's from 76 and has kinda ugly pale wood and weird checking on the foregrip. Of course I need a big scoped "sniper" rifle, combat/survival rifle, pump shotgun, etc and a safe before I need another 22.
ill would get it! let me know if need the ring's ,have a few here

Last edited by rocketmonty; 07-26-2007 at 05:21 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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